Suzuki T and GT Bulletin Board Archives
Page 3

Jemco street pipes

14-Jan-2001 - Anybody have a picture of the Jemco street pipes they could e-mail me?  I'm thinking about buying a set but I would like to see what they look like first.  Are they any good?  I know the race pipes give you max HP but I have to at least retain the side stand (bike is a daily driver and there isn’t always a tree handy to lean the bike against).  :o) Thanks Rich, [email protected]


GT380 front end to T500 compatibility?

13-Jan-2001 - I would really like to convert my T500 to dual front disc brakes but GT750 parts bikes seem to be few and far-between in this area.  I do know where there's a GT380 parts bike and was wondering if it's front end would work on my T500?  I realise it's only single disc but anything’s gotta be better than the drum brakes it's now equipped with.  Will this swap work?  Thanks Rich, [email protected]


Re: yup sure will - 14-Jan-2001 - The GT380 front end will bolt straight on using the GT380 triple clamps and probably give you a better ride and certainly better brakes even with the single disk.  Dual disks are overkill even on race bikes.  Muzza


Re: yup sure will - 14-Jan-2001 - Thanks for the info Muzza.  That's great!  The front end is mostly intact (missing the brake lines) but I should be able to find what I need online.  Looks like I got a project to keep me busy awhile.  Thanks again, Rich [email protected]


An update to T250 in AHRMA GP class

12-Jan-2001 - Here is the response from AHRMA and it wasn't the response I was hoping for.  "The problem with the "built before" statement is that the Japanese didn't do things like the British.  When they made a change of generation they really changed it.  The T250 is a next generation engine to the T20.  It is much more reliable and has greater performance potential.  In Europe they build these to rival the performance of the Yamaha TD-3.  Needless to say if we allowed these (and the Yamaha’s) to be eligible in the GP category it would destroy the GP classes in a relatively short time.  The Honda CB350 is in the same category.  Although it was made and available in 1968 it is not eligible for GP because it is a next generation motorcycle.  Look at the dominance of that motorcycle in the 350 & 500 Sportsman classes."  I guess it is not a big deal ride in the formula 250 class but I really wanted to get a Suzuki running in the GP class.  Not sure how my T250 engine will hold up to the CB350's and RD250's.  Any opinions?  Todd [email protected]


Absolute BUNK! - 12-Jan-2001 - The changes to the T250 motor were minimal.  They changed the timing and the gearing and massaged this and that (something that can be done to a T20 to get similar results.)  If AHRMA's argument is that they were more "reliable" their logic is flawed.  How does being more reliable equate to dominance?  Maybe if you say you can build a better motor and expect it to last but have you looked inside any of the Honda's lately?  Not exactly stock - with all the Henning bits etc.  So apparently you can take an X6/T20 case and do whatever you want to it and this would be "different" than starting with a T250 case.  In any event the potential of the T20 has been taken into consideration already - the bike must run stock exhaust in 250GP and is bumped to 350GP with race chambers on it.  I think you would have your hands full in 350GP and would not be threatening anyone (read: the purists on Italian singles who prefer the art of rule-making to tuning!)  The dominance AHRMA refers to in 250GP certainly occurs in Europe.  But to use that excuse to stop your bike from entering 350GP is unwarranted - absolute bunk.  Stephen [email protected]



6-Jan-2001 -  I'm supposed to be in ICQ now but am lost.  They gave me #103819416.  I haven't a clue as to how to connect with any of you.  It didn't help that I tipped over in my computer chair a while ago-I think I got whiplash!  Guzzi John, John Pierson


"...tipped over" - 6-Jan-2001 - John have you tried the progressive suspension for the computer chairs mine now handles like it is on rails.  Also they have a broad selection of colour co-ordinated power bands to match any office decor...  You know I think all this damn snow is starting to get to me.  Thanks to Muzza's map I now know where you are you must have the same 2-3ft of the powder.  Eugene, [email protected]


Re: "...tipped over" - 6-Jan-2001 - Hey GJ... ICQ (if it's the site you mean) is the site my nephew hangs out on.  A lot of people on there are into pirated movies etc etc.  My nephew routinely burns at least one new DVD per night with a pirate movie on it. You better watch out or the Net Police will arrest you.  Time to make a fast smokescreen getaway on the Buffalo.  LOLOLOLOL.  H2RICK


Re: "...tipped over" - 7-Jan-2001 - Got you GJ your ICQ number has been linked and you are on my contact list.  I had a similar incident recently I was fiddling with the electric cables around the desk and put my computer on the chair.  Next second while I was scrabbling about under the table my chair flipped over and the computer went tumbling across the room.  Bits of plastic went in all directions but it still works!  The difference is...  I don't expect my computer to ride a bike as well!  Muzza


Re: "...tipped over" - 7-Jan-2001 - You didn't have a wife laugh at you and say you're too old for that sort of thing!  By the way Muzza I tried to punch in your number but couldn't figure out how to do it.  I can navigate bikes and boats but the putor is still too complex for my old brain.  Guzzi John.  P.S. our snow is melting like crazy and I can't ski on the slushy stuff.  I'm feeling despondent and may end it all by diving into the lutefisk caldron.  GJ


No GJ... not the (horrors) CAULDRON!!!! - 7-Jan-2001 - H2RICK


'ICQ?' - 12-Jan-2001 - The chat line works great at least after us old farts figure it out.  Had nice talk with Muzza last night (it was lunchtime for him).  We should colour code the map by age so we can be identified as squids sharks or (in my case) old jellyfish.  Buff project in limbo for the moment (money worries due to 'Hillbilly' elected Pres.)  Have been thinking of putting Buff front on T500 and resuming the GT-GS swap.  I'm afraid my mind is being effected by the warm weather that's melting my snow so I can't ski!  Seriously I've calculated that the Buff engine will cost about a grand to get right and I'm not sure I want that much put into the old chassis.  If I make the thing put out more than stock I'm not sure how safe I could make the old bike for backroad play.  Of course I could just restore it and use other bikes for that but I really want a 'Bad' stroker! (and I can't afford an RG!)  Lets hear from some more of you 'smokers' it's great fun to chat!  Bye Guzzi John - John Pierson


Re: "ICQ" - 12-Jan-2001 - Being a "bad lad" and a spoil sport I really can't see the advantage of a GS chassis over the GT.  The GS was not a huge advance over the GT.  Maybe what we need is a suitable frame that handles.  I've seen some interesting work with Norton commando frames.  They are light spacious and a good handler.  Now there is a thought.  Muzza


Re: "ICQ" - 12-Jan-2001 - Some confusion here... in Oz the GS series was the 2 valve 4 stroke Suzuki and the GSX was the 4 valve 4 stroke… it appears that the GS appellation applied in the States to both 2 and 4 valvers.  My comment was directed only at the early GS750 2 valve 4 cylinder which I found dangerous to ride after a while due to unpredictable handling.  Muzza


Attn Todd Brockmeyer

12-Jan-2001 - Got your name off of Muzza's map and noticed you live close to me.  Was wondering if you know of anyone in the Chicago-land area that does crankshaft work.  I'm looking to replace the inner seals on my T500 crankshaft and not having any luck finding anyone local.  I'd like to have the work done local if possible as I'm a little apprehensive as to how the connecting rods will hold up being drop kicked off of the back of a UPS truck.  Thanks for any help you can send my way.  Greg Groth, [email protected]


Re: Attn Todd Brockmeyer - 12-Jan-2001 - No I don't know of anyone locally that does crank work.  You best bet is to have Eric's guy do the work.  It is a pain to ship the crank but it is worth sending it to someone who knows what they are doing.  Eric's guy does top notch work I can vouch for that.  Todd, [email protected]


Re: Attn Todd Brockmeyer  - 13-Jan-2001 - Thanks for the quick reply.  Would you have any contact info?  Greg Groth, [email protected]


Re: Greg that would be me that Todd is talking about... - 13-Jan-2001 - Zooke, [email protected]


Re: Greg that would be me that Todd is talking about... - 15-Jan-2001 - Thank you for the reply I take it that you do crankshaft work?  Can you give me the details - price location etc.?  I would be most grateful.  Greg Groth, [email protected]


T500 crank seals and bearings

11-Jan-2001 - OK first?.  1 Are crank seals and bearings available?  I know how to check mains and rod play but how do you know if the seals are OK?  I don't want to put on new top-end then say goodbye because of wishful thinking.  I'm going to totally disassemble but I'd like to know parts are available before hand.  Also If I need crank work is spec 2 the only affordable alternative.  Thanks Mark Walls, [email protected]


Re: t500 crank seals and bearings - 11-Jan-2001 - Mark - I can get cranks done for $300 labour plus shipping and parts.  The work is impeccable. they come back better than Suzuki ever sold them and look like new.  Seals are still available but sorry mains are not nor are rods and big end pins and bearings.  My crank builder specs out everything and if it is bad then it needs replaced.  In all the cranks I have sent him only one has needed a big end pin (pitted) all others only needed new seals.  They are quite robust.  You may try Paul Miller Motorcycles for parts. 877-244-7755  Zooke


Wiseco GT550 0.060 over piston for sale. - 11-Jan-2001 - Cleaning out the basement over Xmas.  Found this nice NOS. Wiseco piston for GT550 (I believe).  Box says 0.060 over with rings and retaining clips.  This thing is really nice.  Looks better than the NOS. Suzuki pistons.  Best offer if anyone wants it.  Thanks Gary, [email protected]


Help new seat covers

11-Jan-2001 - My computer crashed and I lost the link to a seat cover place I think in Texas.  They sold a cover for the T500 and RD350 among many others.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks Mark Walls, [email protected]


Re: Help new seat covers - 11-Jan-2001 - Hey found the link.  If you need a new cover email [email protected] for a quote.  Mark


Engine compression

11-Jan-2001 - My 1971 T500 has the following cylinder pressure readings: Left cylinder: 128 lbs. Right cylinder: 129 lbs.  Is this what it's supposed to be?  (good reading?)  Also although my bike is a '71 the tranny has 1400cc cast (not stamped) into the case.  Does this mean that it has a 1974 or later engine? (frame and engine numbers do not match)  Is there a casting date somewhere I'm not aware of somewhere on the case or some way of determining the engine's year by the vin number on the case?  Thanks Rich, [email protected]


Re: Engine Compression - 11-Jan-2001 - Sure sounds like a later engine.  What is the vin number?  You can tell what year it is according to the vin and the help of Muzza's site: Todd, [email protected]


Re: Engine Compression - 11-Jan-2001 - Hi Todd - Thanks for the reply.  The engine vin is 79914 which makes it a 1976 motor according to the chart you directed me to.  I guess that’s good because it does have the higher oil capacity than the 1971 motors did.  Anyone have any idea what the cylinder pressure on this engine is supposed to be?  (Clymer manual hasn't shown up yet).  Thanks Rich, [email protected]


Re: Engine Compression - 11-Jan-2001 - Looking at the vin number on my '75 your engine is most likely a '75 not that it really matters between '75 and '76.  The build date on my frame is October '74 and an engine vin number of 79422.  Your vin is close enough to my '75 that I would think the chart is off a bit.  Todd, [email protected]


Re: Engine Compression - 11-Jan-2001 - Those are excellent readings for a standard machine -- you've no problems with ring / bore wear.  Keep using a good 2-stroke oil!  Craig


Re: Engine Compression - 11-Jan-2001 - Yes those compression numbers are about as good as they get.  The key is that both cylinders are very close to each other - that's a good sign.  Unlike 4-strokes where compression goes down with wear it is not uncommon for 2-strokes to actually go up in compression.  What?  Has he lost his mind?...  If the motor starts getting a lot of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber the build up will actually cause the compression ratio to start rising.  That's when you know you have to de-carbonise the piston top head and exhaust ports.  Stephen, [email protected]


Electronic ignitions

11-Jan-2001 - I am able to supplies quality British made optical electronic ignition kits for a wide range of makes & models as well as twin and triple cylinder 2 stroke Suzuki road bikes.  I have put up a couple of pages on the web if you want more - tech info how it works, makes, fitting, cost, kit evaluation,  I liked what the kits did for the performance on my GT250 & T500 & it is a set once and forget your bike even has ignition timing.  Shayn, [email protected]


T500 swing arm swap

10-Jan-2001 - I've been told that the T350 swingarm is the best choice when swapping out the T500's long swing arm.  Will a GT380 swing arm work as well?  I looked at a T250 parts bike but it's swing arm looks too small.  Any suggestions?  Thanks Rich, [email protected]


Re: T500 Swingarm Swap - 10-Jan-2001 - The T250 and T350 swing arm are the same.  The GT380 will not work.  The T500 frame is too narrow for it to fit without major modification.  Zooke


Re; What will work? - 11-Jan-2001 - What will work for the swing arm on the T500?  Atlantic Pirate


Re: What will work? - 11-Jan-2001 - The T250 and T350 swing arm are bolt-ins.  Zooke


x-6 and T250 would be the same wouldn't they - 12-Jan-2001 - Jughead, [email protected]


Boyer ignition

10-Jan-2001 - Can someone tell me the mods that have to be done for the Boyer ignition to fit a GT750.  Atlantic Pirate


Re: Boyer Ignition - 10-Jan-2001 - The Boyer Unit is really designed for the Kawasaki KH250 as a result the Buff points plate has to be bastardised (please excuse expression) to the point where it is no longer useable with points.  A far better unit is the Newtronics SU6 which is designed for Suzuki triples.  These units sell for US$105 trade in the UK.  I happen to have a trade account with Newtronics if you want one.  Terms = Cost plus post.  Clive, [email protected]


Re: Boyer Ignition - 11-Jan-2001 10:16:40, - On my web pages are two Product Reviews  Of both Newtronics Optical and Boyer magnetic.  In the Boyer kit review it explains a little of what is needed to be done.  Shayn, [email protected]


Re: Boyer Ignition - 13-Jan-2001 - I have a brand new Boyer still in the box AND a stainless steel laser cut backing plate to go with it for mounting.  This will allow you to remove the stock ignition plate entirely which allows you to put it back on later IF you want to.  Email me if you're interested in pricing and other details.  I'm in Canada too so postage cost will be negligible.  H2RICK, [email protected]


Possible T500J purchase this weekend

10-Jan-2001 - I am meeting a fellow in Louisville this Saturday to look at his '72 T500J.  It has a claimed 7,700 miles and from the photos he sent the bike seems exceptionally clean and complete.  It also appears to be original except for a black paint job.  Aside from the usual things like top-end noise gearbox howl excessive smoking etc.  I would like to put together a checklist to evaluate the bike.  I solicit your input in putting my check list together.  The current owner recently put new Michelin Macadam tires on the bike.  It appears to be missing the rear grab rail but is otherwise complete.  Let me know what to look for and let me know what a reasonable starting bid might be.  Thanks for your help.  I'll let you all know if the thing is in my garage on Monday!  Bill, [email protected]


Re: Possible T500J purchase this weekend - 10-Jan-2001 - With low mileage the motor should be fairly quiet.  No top end rattles and no 5th gear whine.  Standard rear fenders are getting rare so are chain guards.  When checking the engine warm it up then get the seller to blip the throttle up to about 4000rpm then place your hands close to the ends of the mufflers.  You should feel an even blast from both sides feel the pipes for even heat.  If you can ride it to make sure the gears select OK and it doesn’t jump out of gear 3rd can be prone to this.  After the ride check under the left side of the engine for dilute oil/petrol mix.  This indicates the left crank web stub (the bit that drives the points is knackered.  If its good $800, exceptional $1000, faults $300 up.  Clive


Re: Possible T500J purchase this weekend - 10-Jan-2001 - J models have large chrome emblems on the oil tank and side panel.  These are expensive to replace.  Most parts are available from Sam Costanzo at a price!!  Don’t look to make money on the T500.  Just restore ride or whatever but most of all you will enjoy owning one.  PS. my price guide may be a bit out, I've tried to convert UK prices to USA ones so please guys if I'm way out I apologise now to avoid the smutty remarks!!!!!!!!  Clive


Re: Possible T500J purchase this weekend - 10-Jan-2001 - Clive - thanks for the input.  From the photos I've been sent it certainly appears between at least good to excellent.  Those wonderful (?) '72 side cover/oil tank chrome pieces are present and most shiny.  The rear fender and chain guard look equally impressive.  I am mainly concerned about the gearbox as I don't think the crankcase volume mod has been done.  I believe that I will be able to do a short test ride on the bike and I will pay particular attention to fourth and fifth gears.  The asking price falls within the $800 to $1000 range you quote so if the condition is as it appears it is reasonable.  I know that Sam would be happy to send me T500 goodies for the right price.  I don't look to turn a profit on the bike I just love those old Suzuki two-stroke street bikes and it will share the garage with my trusty GT750 and my zesty RD400.  Anything else to consider?  Bill, [email protected]


Re: Possible T500J purchase this weekend - 10-Jan-2001 - I got one of these in northern Minnesota last May.  Mine had 4,300 actual miles original tires nice chrome except for the bolt heads and small bits like the straps that hold the struts to the front fender.  If you have a vom or other multimeter check the battery voltage and see if it increases as it should with the engine running.  They will run with a flat battery due to having a permanent magnet generating system.  My carb boot was rotted so I put on pods.  With so few miles the bike may have never had fresh fork or tranny oil.  Luckily mine was owned by an Amzoil dealer so it had good lube in it.  Mine has original but faded green over white paint and the seat is either remarkably preserved or very neatly redone (I can't tell other than it has no 'Suzuki' stencilled on it).  Mine had a leaky fuel tap so I stole one off my son's Kawi triple which happened to fit.  Other than carb cleaning, a battery and some fresh tires I put over 3,000 miles on it last summer.  The only trouble it gave me was the unusual loosening of both throttle slide alignment pins in the carbs.  Luckily they didn't fall out so I just pushed them back into place and lightly peened the aluminium around them to keep them from backing out again.  I have greatly enjoyed this old piece and look forward to having similar fun with my Buff if it ever gets together.  Lastly I got the T for the bargain price of $475 I hope you can do as well.  Good luck Guzzi John - John Pierson


Re: Possible T500J purchase this weekend - 10-Jan-2001 - I think that between GJ and myself most things have been covered.  Clock faces are the only other thing to worry about if the bike has been left in the sun for long periods.  Don’t get too paranoid over the tranny oil mod.  You will soon know if the gearbox is duff.  Many early T500's clocked up very high mileage’s before there was such a thing as a gearbox mod.  The biggest reason guys go on about tranny oil levels now is down to the fact Input shafts are getting hard to find.  Clive


Re: Possible T500J purchase this weekend - 10-Jan-2001 - Another thing to consider: you say the bike has rolled through ~8000 miles over the past 29 years.  This means either it has done A LOT of sitting around during its life (so have I now that I think about it) or has been ridden consistently about 250 miles per year or has endured very sporadic use.  Either way low miles is good but sometimes its the years that matter not just the mileage.  You mention the bike has top end noise that is normal but maybe some things have started to give out a bit.  Somebody repainted it at some point probably to fix faded paint due to the sun more than just the need for a new look.  Lots of smoke out the pipes can indicate aged seals and piston slap can be inflexible rings from sitting for a long time with corrosion.  Either way you might have to refresh the crank seals and top end after you buy it.  Maybe you can drive down the price a little by mentioning these sundries but no worries because a titan is easy to work on if you can find the parts.  Matt, [email protected]


Re: Possible T500J purchase this weekend - 11-Jan-2001 - Thanks to all.  Let me say that I do not know if the top end is noisy as I haven't yet seen or heard the bike in person it is certainly on my list to check.  I will take my multimeter to check on the charging system; good suggestion.  The tires are supposed to be brand new and the present owner says he thinks it has been stored inside throughout its life.  The seat looks pristine even to the Suzuki logo on the back but I don't know if it is original.  I think the condition of all the rubber bits and straps will be a good gauge as to its past storage conditions.  Clive thanks for the reassurance on the gearbox issue.  I think Muzza has me spooked a little.  I believe I'll try Zooke's recommendation for BelRay Gearsaver transmission oil.  My friend Richard and I will probably try to do a repaint back to original colours.  I actually prefer the paint scheme on the '71's to the '72's.  Something like orange metal flake and white sound interesting.  Well thanks again for your help.  I am anxious to see this bike in person and I'll send a report on my buying experience later.  Bill, [email protected]


Production dates for T250

9-Jan-2001 - I'm in the process of trying to get my T20/T250 eligible for the AHRMA GP350 class.  According to the rules all machines built prior to December 31 1968 are eligible.  Can anyone tell me if the T250 was built before this date?  I know the first model year was 1969 but is there any proof about the build dates being before Dec 31 1968?  Thanks for any help Todd, [email protected]


Re: Production dates for T250 - 9-Jan-2001 - Yes The T250 was sold as a 69 but like the 68 Cobra they were actually manufactured the previous year.  We will have to locate a 69 with the manufactured date of Oct. to Dec. 68. and that should make it legal.  They want a built date and that’s on the tag on the neck.  Zooke


Re: Production dates for T250 - 9-Jan-2001 - Zooke - Do they insist that a particular model i.e. T250 be built before that cut-off date OR would showing them a T20 date be OK??  Basically they are the same bikes but is that understood by the rules guys??  I'm just curious on this.  H2RICK


Re: Production dates for T250 - 10-Jan-2001 - sadly for this purpose… the T20 may look similar but it has quite different barrels heads and many other mechanical differences.  These components are not interchangeable between the T250 and the T20.  Muzza


Re: Production dates for T250 - 10-Jan-2001 - Thanks for the input exactly what I needed to know.  I doubt I will need to produce a frame proving the manufacture dates.  I talked to the AHRMA officials at Roebling and they didn't think it should be a problem.  I figured I should verify the build dates with the experts before sending AHRMA a letter about getting the bike approved.  In attempt to get more pictures of peoples' race bikes posted to the message board here is a picture of the T20/T250 I plan on racing this year.  The bike still needs some work but should be ready by spring I'm just worried about the rider.  Don't know if that image will display when I post this.  If not Muzza how did you post the Lutefisk picture?  Todd


Re: Production dates for T250 - 13-Jan-2001 - Todd - Good lookin' ride!!  I hope it (and the rider) are as fast as the bike looks.  LOLOLOL  Take it cool and work yourself up to the bike's potential... don't try to swallow it all in one gulp!! LOLOLOL Good luck with your racing season and keep us posted.  H2RICK


T500 Tranny oil question

9-Jan-2001 - What is the best oil to use in the T500's tranny?  20W40 non-detergent (which is what my owners manual calls for) seems to be non-existent (at least around these parts).  Any suggestions?  Thanks Rich, [email protected]


Re: T500 Tranny Oil Question - 9-Jan-2001 - Use Belray Gear saver.  Should be available at any bike shop.  I also use Klotz Flexdrive 30.  Zooke


Re: T500 Tranny Oil Question - 9-Jan-2001 - Hi Eric - Thanks for the quick response. What weight of Belray gear saver do you use?  Thanks Rich, [email protected]


Re: T500 Tranny Oil Question - 9-Jan-2001 - 80wt.  Be sure it is for the two-stroke trans.  Easy to mistake the hypoid gear saver for the transmission gearsaver.  Zooke


Re: Hey Zooke - 9-Jan-2001 -  Being as I'm a cheap old sob can you give me any specifics against using ATF?  I have been using 20-50&10-40 in my various bikes both 2&4 strokers.  I read someone’s suggestion that ATF's lighter weight would possibly splash those 4th & 5th cogs that are chancy for some of us.  I know it has the goods for heat and pressure besides being clutch friendly but?  Thanks Guzzi John - GJ


GJ: you'll be sorry you asked about this... - 9-Jan-2001 - I'll email you my 20 minute primer on tranny oils.  DO NOT ATTEMPT TO HANDLE SHARP OBJECTS OR DRIVE A MOTOR VEHICLE DURING/AFTER READING THIS STUFF.  You may want to fasten the seat belt on your La-Z-Boy so you don't fall out when you doze off. LOLOLOL  Seriously you'll probably find your answers in this little thing I ginned up for some other guys.  H2RICK


GJ: email me from this post with your address - 9-Jan-2001 - You think lutefisk is exciting... wait'll ya read this stuff.  LOLOLOLOL  H2RICK [email protected]


Re: GJ: email me from this post with your address - 10-Jan-2001 - John Pierson - 11925 Sumter Ave no. Champlin MN-55316 (is this a chain letter or pyramid scheme?) GJ


Re: GJ: email me from this post with your address - 10-Jan-2001 - OOPS!  I'll bet you meant E-MAIL address.  GJ, [email protected]


GJ Geography - 9-Jan-2001 - John my other half Joelle wants to know if a place called Hannibal is near to you.  It must be the lure of the lutefisk!!!  It cannot be the subtropical weather you endure!!!!!  Clive


Re: GJ Geography - 9-Jan-2001 19:22:19, - The only Hannibal I know of is in Missouri probably 4-500 miles south.  I've had great fun with the site called 'Map it' for finding places.  I can't remember if it's just US or will map world-wide.  Just for fun I think I'll zero in on you.  Guzzi John GJ


Re: GJ Geography - 9-Jan-2001 - Is it still on the Mississippi (hope I spelt that right). Joelle works for a company that imports from Hannibal and she visits there from time to time.  Please excuse my poor geography of your country but its very difficult to get your head around a Country that is 50+ times bigger than your own!!  Clive


Re: GJ Geography - 10-Jan-2001 - Yes its on the river about 350 miles south of the Twin Cities (Minneapolis-St. Paul).  If you look at a US map follow the Mississippi river to just south of the Iowa-Missouri border Hannibal is about a third of the way between there and St. Louis.  If you get there sometime c'mon up and visit if possible.  We've got plenty of room if you can stand the kids pets and new granddaughter.  After reading a book of Viking history my oldest daughter gave me for Xmas I've concluded that we may be long lost relatives due the Norse influence in your part of England. Just another strange thought from this old Norsky.  By now Guzzi John - John Pierson


Re: GJ Geography - 10-Jan-2001 - Only if I get to scrape the pegs on your Buff!!!  Only kidding.  If I can make it some day I will thanks John.  Clive



9-Jan-2001 - I am looking for a part number for a cylinder base gasket and O-rings.  Can anyone help?  Atlantic Pirate


Re: Gasket - 9-Jan-2001 - Gasket is Pt No: 11241-31000 "O " rings: 09280-22001.  Clive


Clive - 10-Jan-2001 - Thanks Clive.  Atlantic Pirate


TR750 NOS. head gaskets

9-Jan-2001 - 2 NOS. factory TR head gaskets still in the original cherry box. US$60.00 each plus freight.  eMail for photo.  Ivor, [email protected]


Racing compound brake pads & brake line question

8-Jan-2001 - Where can I find HH racing compound brake pads for the GT model disk front brakes?  EBC sells the Kevlar pads (Spec II has them).  I saw an earlier post which mentioned using one calliper with racing pads.  Anyone have a source?  Also my GT750 front end is a J model I believe.  The dual callipers have a steel tube between the calliper and the rubber brake line.  The hole in the calliper is not deep enough for a banjo bolt.  I know this has been mentioned before also.  Can I buy braided steel brake lines for this system?  Can I use an adapter of some sort to convert to normal lines?  I hope someone has encountered this before and will share their answer.  Todd T


Re: Racing compound brake pads & brake line question - 8-Jan-2001 - Todd -  mentioned a set of racing compound brake pads in an earlier post concerning 1 or 2 disks?  I was at a track 5 hours from home when I first tried the single disk.  The pads I first tried were NOS. from a swap meet.  They worked like crap.  One of the guys at the track worked at a bike shop and said he had seen a set around the shop of "race compound" pads.  When he brought them back they weren't even in a box.  He sold them to me for $30 Cdn.  He had saved my weekend and the pads worked fantastic. Muzza and Zooke will know this stuff they are the masters of fast.  As for the brake line most shops will have varying lengths of banjo bolts.  I have switched mine over to SSL's and after pricing adapters extra banjo bolts etc.  I just went with two lines all the way to the reservoir (double length banjo bolt required).  I believe this should have very negligible effects even though it increases the volume of fluid what is important is how much fluid is pumped into the system and that it comes out the other end works for me.  Eugene, [email protected]


Thanks Eugene. I also found another option... - 9-Jan-2001 - Russell Cycleflex has adapters which screw into the callipers and universal lines which screw onto the adapters.  The adapters have two male ends on each one.  Then you use a dual line banjo bolt at the master cylinder like you mentioned.  If anyone wants to order you need to give them the size and thread pattern of the hole in the calliper (10mm and 1.0 thread) and the shape of the bottom of the hole in the calliper (reverse funnel shape for my set-up).  I still don't know about the brake pads.  Todd T


T500 Oil pump question

7-Jan-2001 19:55:29, - Is there a procedure for priming the oil pump (to remove air) after the system has been run dry or is this unnecessary (just put oil in the tank and go)?  Thanks Rich, [email protected]


Re: T500 Oil Pump Question - 8-Jan-2001 - There is a procedure... but until I get home & check my Clymer I can't remember what it is.  Somewhere on the pump there's a bleed screw that you open until oil runs out of it.  Then you can get air bubbles out of the oil lines to the cylinders etc by removing the plugs pouring about 5ml of two stroke oil into each plug hole and spinning the back wheel with the bike in 4th gear -- this pushes oil thru the lines.  Hope this helps until I can check the manual or someone else can remember.  Craig


Re: T500 Oil Pump Question - 8-Jan-2001 - Craig is right.  If only the oil tank and inlet line are dry and there is still oil in the output lines going to the cylinders then you can fill the oil tank and loosen the banjo bolt at the pump to bleed the inlet of air. If there is air in the pressure (output) lines you must remove the pump body and use a squirt can to force oil into each output line. In either case when you start the bike let it idle and hold the pump lever in it's full on position to fill the lines with oil.  If you continue to see air bubbles you have a leak somewhere in the system.  T


Re: T500 Oil Pump Question - 9-Jan-2001 - To bleed the oil pump.  Undo the large brass nut on the front of the pump about 5 full turns.  Oil will then seep out.  Once the oil is flowing tighten the nut up BUT check that oil is not forced back up the in line to the oil tank.  If it is do the following: Pressurise the oil tank via the breather pipe with a foot pump.  Only one or two presses of the pump is needed.  (Oil filler cap must be on very tight)  Now repeat the bleeding method and you will find the oil pump and outlet pipes self prime.  No need for the rear wheel spinning etc.  It is a bit messy with the oil being under pressure. The pump still needs to be held open on start just to make sure there is no air in the system.  Clive


Lightened crank

7-Jan-2001 - I have a lightened crank in my possession.  Before I have it rebuilt and placed back in my T500 racer I would like to know if anyone on the this list can replicate the aluminium stuffers for me.  I can get the cranks lightened but need stuffers.  Thanks in advance.  Zooke, [email protected]


STUFFERS - 8-Jan-2001 - I have made a detail drawing of what I think the stuffers should look like.  Do you have any detail drawings or dimensions.  I have planned on making them out of aluminium tubing.  The hard part is getting the milled slot in O.D. for the con-rod.  I have planned on make several sets in the shop.  Send an email message and I can send you an AutoCAD drawing of what I figured on.  [email protected]


Under barrel spacer for Eugene

7-Jan-2001 - Eugene - Send an IMO for £22 to Jeff Mocroft 138 Harlescott Grange Shrewsbury Shropshire UK. and he will send a spacer by return.  The cost covers the spacer and postage.  Clive, [email protected]


Thank you Clive I'll send it out early this week - 7-Jan-2001 - Eugene


Lutefisk unveiled

7-Jan-2001 - Guzzi John was right... Lutefisk has a certain allure...?  Muzza


Re: Lutefisk unveiled - 7-Jan-2001 -  You've discovered the holiest shrine in Minnesota.  Guzzi John, GJ


Re: Lutefisk unveiled - 7-Jan-2001 - Can I get that in a blonde ported multi-cylinder version with chambers??  LOLOLOL  Man that's an UUUUUUGLY fish.  Could this have something to do with the lack of an export market??  Just kidding GJ... but I sure hope it tastes better than it looks.  LOLOLOLOL.  H2RICK


Re: Lutefisk unveiled - 8-Jan-2001 - Taste!  Are you nuts?  Lutefisk was developed as a weapon an answer to the 'Greek Fire' the Byzantines were using against our boys in the old days.  GJ, GJ


GT 550 Left cylinder dumps fuel mixture out exhaust

6-Jan-2001 - Hi & as I'm getting very frustrated and I'm running out of ideas can someone give me some advice.  My left cylinder dumps the fuel mixture out the exhaust.  It is a lot of fuel and oil falling out.  So effectively the left cylinder won't burn the mixture because the cylinder is being flooded.  It is a stock bike apart from the Boyer Bransden electronic ignition.  All three cylinders have spark.  The carbs have been looked over and all are set the same (to specs).  I even reinstalled the points to see if it was an ignition problem.  Basically no matter what I do it's always the same problem the right and centre fire while the left is spitting out fuel.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Jose [email protected]


Re: GT550 Left Cylinder dumps fuel mixture out exhaust - 6-Jan-2001 - GT550's and GT380's are prone to suffer this problem if the floats in the carbs are set a fraction too high.  If the floats were set to Suzuki specs you have to do it with the carb tilted over at an angle of around 30 deg so that the float tang does not push in the fuel cut off valve.  The other problem you may have in conjunction with the above is parking the bike on the side stand.  Clive


Took the plunge... new T500R owner

6-Jan-2001 - Well after reading all the good info on this site I went ahead a bought a 1971 T500R that caught my eye one day while I was out on the road.  It is in remarkably good condition. It has a Purple and white paint scheme and looks just like the one in the picture posted by Zooke on Dec 31 (minus the stickers and number placard of course).  The original owner disconnected the oil pump and said to just run it pre-mix.  Should I re-connect the oiling system or should I just continue to run premix?  I've always run premix in my Yamaha’s (way back) so it really isn't a problem for me.  But since this system oils the bearings directly I'm not sure which way to go. Any suggestions?  Another thing I noticed is that the gearing seems to be way taller than my old Yamaha’s.  What is the best sprocket/counter-sprocket combination to really help wake this bike up?  Where can I get them?  My local Suzuki dealer is totally useless.  They don't even have key blanks for this bike to make me a spare key!!!  Any assistance is greatly appreciated.  Until next time, Rich, [email protected]


Re: Took the plunge... New T500R Owner - 6-Jan-2001 - Rich - BY ALL MEANS HOOK UP THE OIL PUMP!!!  Your outer mains are getting no oil.  The slingers need to be removed and holes drilled thru the transfers to the bearings if you want to run pre-mix.  14/33 gearing is best.  You might try Paul Miller Motorcycles for that front sprocket as they are discontinued from the dealer.  Neither does Sprocket Specialists carry the 530.  You can go to a 520 chain conversion if you desire though.  Zooke


Re: Took the plunge... New T500R Owner - 6-Jan-2001 - A couple of owners have told me that they retain the 16T gearbox sprocket and run a 36T rear sprocket that a decent machine shop will make for you.  You will find these shops who specialise in sprocket machining.  Just let them have your old sprocket or a drawing and they will make it for you.  At least that’s how it works in the UK regards Phil C


Re: Took the plunge... New T500R Owner - 7-Jan-2001 - Thanks Eric and Phil for the warning about the oil pump.  I really didn't feel comfortable about running it pre-mix when the bike was designed for direct bearing oil feeding.  Whew!!  glad didn't drive it around too much.  As for the sprocket problem it sounds like locating a 14 tooth front sprocket may be difficult.  In the event I can't find one does the 36 tooth rear sprocket Phil mentioned get me to that desirable 14/33 ratio?  If you divide 33 by 14 you get 2.357.  With a stock 16 tooth front sprocket and a 36 tooth rear sprocket (36 divided by 16) you get 2.25.  37 divided by 16 equals 2.3125 - 38 by 16 equals 2.375 and so on.  It seem that the 16/37 combination gets the closest to the desired 14/33 ratio without going over. Unless of course I'm totally not figuring this out correctly (which is most probably the case).  Am I doing this right?  The Sprocket Specialist site shows availability of T500 rear sprockets ranging from 30 to 71 teeth.  Thanks again, Rich, [email protected]


Re: Took the plunge... New T500R Owner - 7-Jan-2001 - Welcome to the "Suzuki Society" Rich... but I can't help wondering what that 71 tooth Titan rear sprocket is for... hill climbing?? fantastic hole shots at the drags?? LOLOLOLOL Seriously please post the URL for that sprocket site... and listen to Zooke on Titan stuff... he KNOWS those bikes.  H2RICK


Re: Took the plunge... New T500R Owner - 8-Jan-2001 - Hi Rick - The following URL will take you directly to the Suzuki page at the Sprocket Specialists site:  I was wondering about that 71 tooth sprocket myself.  It seems to me that with that on the back 1st gear would be all but useless.  Gotta be for hill climbing or something like that.  Later Rich, [email protected]


Chris Bradley's TR500 replica

6-Jan-2001 - One beautiful TR500 to this address  Maurizio


Re: Chris Bradley's TR500 Replica - 6-Jan-2001 - Of course that picture first appeared and still does on my Suzuki 500 website.  Chris's story appears in great detail at... & Click here  The bike was auctioned off several years back by Frank Melling and rather fancifully described as a faithful replica of a TR500 Suzuki.  It is not I can assure you. Chris's creation whilst beautifully done and followed with great interest (and assisted) by me is not a TR500 it uses a modified standard frame and whilst inspired by the TR it is more normally described as a T500 Sports or a T500 Racer.  Being pedantic aren't I. Mind you having had both types they are chalk and cheese to ride.  No comparison.  The TR500 is an absolute thrill to ride.  Muzza


Suzuki register and maps - success at last

5-Jan-2001 - All indications are that the register is working fine now.  That was so much work.  Anyway you would all be familiar with the address by now..., Muzza


Re: Suzi Register and Maps - Success at last - 5-Jan-2001 - A superb job!  The topographical background adds an aspect of the kind of territory we all live and ride in.  Guzzi John.  P.S. now we know where to land for our 'Beer Raid'!  GJ


Re: Suzi Register and Maps - Success at last - 5-Jan-2001 - your Viking blood is a worry which comes first pillage or...?  I'd like to know which way to turn!  No beer here it never lasts that long!  My relatives will make short work of you horned devils - good Cornish and German (Schleswig-Holstein) stock :)  Muzza


Schleswig-Holstein stock?? - 6-Jan-2001 - How the devil did cows get into this discussion??  Seriously folks... the map now works great and congrats to Muzza for a really fine 12 beer job.  I wonder what the "beers per hour" ratio was???  LOLOLOLOL.  H2RICK


Re: Schleswig-Holstein stock?? - 7-Jan-2001 - forget the beer... that's for girls... Jack Daniels oy oy oy!  As for the cows crack well you've some hide!  :)  Muzza


Your beer is no longer safe!!! - 4-Jan-2001 - Well done Muzza. Watch your beers from now on guys!!  They are no longer safe!!  Clive


Re: Your beer is no longer safe!!! - 4-Jan-2001 - Gee Clive... do ya think he'll be able to grab it over the Net???  LOLOLOLOLOL  H2RICK


Re: Your beer is no longer safe!!! - 5-Jan-2001 - He's Australian so anything’s possible!!!!!  Clive


Re: Your beer is no longer safe!!! - 5-Jan-2001 - I represent that remark!!! :)  Muzza


Re: Your beer is no longer safe!!! - 5-Jan-2001 -  As soon as the ice is off the Mississippi we Norwegians will row our dragon ships to the sea and head for Oz.  We only need to know where to land to find Muzza's garage.  Remember any resistance will be met with 'Lutefisk'!  GJ


Re: Your beer is no longer safe!!! - 5-Jan-2001 - You'd have to fight the illegal immigrants to get to shore at the moment.  Could I have some of that Mississippi ice for my Jack Daniel's please?  The contents of my garage is free to the first person to cross my palm with 30 pieces of silver or equivalent.  Muzza


Re: Your beer is no longer safe!!! - 5-Jan-2001 -  While pondering the boat trip I did download the ICQ but upon reading the fine print discovered that somewhere down the line they want silver too!  I thought it might be a free-be but maybe there is no 'Free Lunch (Beer)?  Guzzi John - GJ


Re: Your beer is no longer safe!!! - 6-Jan-2001 - They have been saying that for years.  If and when they want money then I say stick it up their ass oh I mean donkey.  In the meantime it is a free download and free in operation.  Muzza


Muzza... surrender NOW!!! - 6-Jan-2001 - When GJ starts up his Lutefisk "barrage" it'll be worse than chemical or atomic warfare!!  LOLOLOLOL.  H2RICK


That Map and the Owners Register - 4-Jan-2001 - I've set everything on the register pages to default to see if that makes a difference for you guys.  I've tested them again on Netscape IE5 and Opera and all is OK  If it still doesn't work for you all then back to the designing board.  Please let me know.  When clicking on the table do maps appear?  Still at...  Muzza


Re: That Map and the Owners Register - problem fixed - 4-Jan-2001 - Thanks to Todd Brockmyer the map problem is fixed.  Todd debugged the map link which the HTML page had defaulted to.  Thanks Todd, Sorry about the confusion.  Muzza


Re: That Map and the Owners Register - 4-Jan-2001 - Hi Muzza map still the same page loads with all details except the map!!  Just a black square you can click on the square and it will load a more detailed map OK but sometimes this fails to load as well.  I run IE5.  Great idea by the way count me in Trev Marsh Nottinghamshire England.  '76 GT500 '77 GT500 Trev


Re: That Map and the Owners Register - 4-Jan-2001 - Muzza - It came up blank for me as well and then I hit reload and there it was.  Seems to work now for me.  Seems it was pulling up my old cached memory at first.  Zooke


Bingo!!  Just tried again loading OK now first time every time. - 4-Jan-2001 - Trev


Re: That Map and the Owners Register - 4-Jan-2001 - Ultimacool!!  Muzza your time is wasted riding/racing your Titan, chasing birds swilling beer and roasting stuff on your barby... you're obviously some kind of html guru.  Great stuff!!  Please add my GT550A to my map info.  I look kinda' naked without a bike on there.  One day when I'm rich and famous I'll have a Buffalo and a Titan to go with the 550. LOLOLOLOLOL.  H2RICK


Re: That Map and the Owners Register - 5-Jan-2001 - Thanks H2RICK - or should that be H2O with all that ice around??  Given a choice I think the order of preference would be... birds, bikes, barbie, booze, webpage building!!!  Real laugh doing the map pages I'd be loading up pages and everyone looking for them and not finding them… we were all trying to do everything at once.  Takes a while to build pages upload test and de-bug.  I'm real tuckered after all that… time for a rest.  Hope it all works now.  Muzza


Wisdom According to H2RICK - 6-Jan-2001 - Muzza - A man of your intelligence should know the old rule: Never put your capital into anything with tits or wheels!!  By the looks of your list you're in REAL trouble.  LOLOLOLOLOL  Ice for Jack Daniels is in the post.  (PS: I scraped it off my driveway) LOLOLOLOL.  H2RICK


Suzuki T500 vs. Yamaha RD350 vs. Yamaha RD400

5-Jan-2001 - High performance wise which bike has the most potential (which is the best choice to build a real fire breathing beast for the street) the T500, RD350 or RD400, LJ, [email protected]


Re: Suzuki T500 vs. Yamaha RD350 vs. Yamaha RD400 - 5-Jan-2001 - Hi guy I have a '72T500 now and like it a lot for a fun retro toy.  For a hot modified bike I'm prejudiced toward the RDs particularly because I road-raced a 400 made into a 'Poor man's TZ' between '76&'80.  I'm sure Eric will lean toward the T500 engine's potential to produce more power (maybe) but RD's superior chassis and the availability of lots of hot-up parts make it my choice.  Another angle to look at is your physical size.  I'm 6'3" and couldn't race the 400 in stock form (I was too big).  With a TZ seat over the rear wheel and using the rear pegs as rearsets I could tuck behind the fairing.  Now I'm 70# more and less flexible so that bike wouldn't work for me.  If you truly want the tops in a twin then the RZ350 is the way to go.  The water-cooling and much better chassis give it potential beyond any stroker except the RG500.  Do you just want something for stoplight drags or are you looking to mix it up with squids on sport bikes on the back roads (or track)?  It all boils down to how much money you're willing to spend.  In the end any 5 year old 600 would probably give as much or more performance than any stroker this side of a TZ.  I'm in the process of retro-ing a Buffalo for a late life suicide (I mean fun) machine.  The parts for '70s bikes are getting pretty scarce so the '83-'85? RZ has another thing in its favour.  But the bottom line is the old adage 'Run What Ya Brung!'  Lets see what the other boys have to offer for advice.  Keep us up to date on your project.  Guzzi John - John Pierson


Re: Suzuki T500 vs. Yamaha RD350 vs. Yamaha RD400 - 5-Jan-2001 - Well Guzzi John is correct in my leaning toward the T500 instead of the Yamaha’s.  Sorry.  It's not that they aren't great and all those cool parts still available.  I'm just a nut for the not so popular.  In high school I drove a 58 Oldsmobile instead of the customary 57 Chevy.  I am using a Modified RD frame with a T500 motor in it though.  Gets the motor further forward and lower.  Plus a GP proven frame.  But I am more partial to the ability to make the T500 motor fast and yet still tractable and it lasts so much longer in race tune than the RDs do.  Contrary to what so many people say the T500 in a high stage of tune is still a very street-able motor.  No matter what the porting it still seems to maintain quite a lot of bottom end and midrange.  And the T500 ported and raced in Historic Production is just awesome in stock chassis form.  It's a great way to start racing if you never have.  Zooke, [email protected]


T500 a great way to start racing I'll second that! - 5-Jan-2001 - Todd, [email protected]


Re: T500 a great way to start racing I'll second that! - 5-Jan-2001 - Both John and Eric are spot on.  Standard the RZ350 is a goer for the street great motor and looks good... BUT... it doesn't have much presence and they just don't last forever.  As Eric said the T500 is awesome in race form and hotted up for the road... but you have to put some effort into it because you can't go to the shop and buy the hot parts over the counter.  Maybe that is also why they are so satisfying to ride... because part of you is in there as well if you know what I mean!  Muzza


Re: Suzuki T500 vs. Yamaha RD350 vs. Yamaha RD400 - 5-Jan-2001 - Hello "LJ" - I agree with Zooke a well tuned 500 would be my choice while the 400 and 350 will stop and handle a bit better the character and reliability of the 500 would make it a better bet.  But when all is said and done its up to personal preference maybe we are a bit bias on this board!!  I have raced both the 500 and the 400 on the track (against the 350) and used them both on the street to break new parts in and to piss off Honda 750's riders at the lights!!  In a straight fight from the lights with both bikes in race tune the explosive power of the 400 would probably get its nose in front and it would certainly leave the 500 on twisty lanes it depends on the type of roads you are racing...  I mean riding on!!  The 350 would lose out on reliability and shade out on top end speed.  Some years ago I met a bloke who had just acquired a bike it was a 400 with a 500 motor shoehorned into the frame professionally done with a converted mono-shock back end.  It ran and looked like a dog, he didn't know anything about it having just bought it from a breakers it was certainly an ex-race motor as the drain plugs etc. were wired up.  I often wondered how it turned out it would certainly be a fire breathing beast for the street!  Maybe it will jog someone's memory it was in the mid eighties around the peak district in England.  You also have the added bonus if you build a 500 of loads of people coming up to you in the street saying "I used to have one of these" then launching into speeches about their favourite traffic light GP!  Anyhow enough of my ramblings good luck with the project whichever way you go.  Trev


Re: Suzuki T500 vs. Yamaha RD350 vs. Yamaha RD400 - 6-Jan-2001 - You guys and your low rent 2 cylinder bikes may just force me to do something with all those GT550 bits and chambers I have lying around!!  LOLOLOLOL  Maybe when Todd gets his 550 grenade... er... racer ready to go you guys will see what a good multi-cylinder engine can do... or not.  H2RICK


Hey Rick it'll need 24 inch wheels to give it ground clearance around the bends!! LOLOLOLOL - 6-Jan-2001 - Trev


Anyone got some trick 24 inch mags they'll part with cheap???  LOL - 6-Jan-2001 - H2RICK


Re: Sorry H2RICK just sold my last set to a "Long Tall Texan".  LOL - 6-Jan-2001 - Zooke


Thanks for defending our triples H2! - 8-Jan-2001 - I have been reading this story line just thinking about how my bike would fit in with this crowd at the track.  As Trev so "gently" pointed out ground clearance will be a problem.  My first attempt to tuck in my chambers looked good with the bike standing up but they were the first things to drag (even before the right side engine cover and stock foot pegs) when I leaned it over.  I bought some 1.25 inch header pipe in 90 deg. sections (per Muzza's site) to see if I can change the angle of the dangle.  My fabricator friend wants me to run the centre pipe up and around under the seat like the TR750.  I'm afraid we will ruin that chamber trying to cut and weld all those bends in the process.  Todd T


Re: Thanks for defending our triples H2! - 9-Jan-2001 - Todd - Yep us multi-cylinder types got to stick together.  That centre pipe revamp sounds pretty tricky.  LOLOLOL  Best leave that one to the experts.  I believe the "normal" chamber set-up is 2 on the right side and one on the left like Kawi did it with their stock exhaust set-up.  You must have a pretty fat pipe to drag before the foot peg does.  Let us know how things turn out with the revamped header pipes.  H2RICK


Fat pipes on wide bikes - 10-Jan-2001 - The bellies of my chambers are 100 mm in dia.  They take up a lot of room.  The problem I ran into with my first attempt was that I started the right pipe too far out under the right case so I ended up making the bike even wider than the motor already is.  That's why it touched down so soon.  That is also something they didn't run into on the H1.  That motor is not as wide.  They will fit nicely with the bellies directly under the middle of the bike and the baffle cones angled out and up to clear the rear wheel.  Like you said 2 silencers on the right 1 on the left to clear the chain.  I hope to have pictures of a semi-completed bike by next month.  Todd T


T500K rectifier

4-Jan-2001 - Does anyone know where I can get hold of a new or very good rectifier for my T500K.  I am willing to pay good money for a good one or swap some bits and bobs if you prefer.  Clive, [email protected]


Re: T500K Rectifier - 5-Jan-2001 - did you try Sam at Vintage Parts? Matt


Re: T500K Rectifier - 5-Jan-2001 - Thanks Matt. I forgot all about Sam.  Clive


Suzuki T500 dual front disc conversion???

4-Jan-2001 15:54:04, - Greetings all.  I've noticed many photos of T500 race bikes with dual front discs.  My question is what bike (make and model) do I need to cannibalise the front end from in order to convert mine to dual front discs? I would like to stay with spocked rims if possible.  Thanks Rich, [email protected]


Re: Suzuki T500 Dual Front Disc Conversion??? - 4-Jan-2001 - GT750s are the most popular but some people are starting to use GS750s.  Some GT550s came with twin disks as an option.  Others use Kawasaki twin disks and callipers.  Muzza


Re: Suzuki T500 Dual Front Disc Conversion??? - 4-Jan-2001 - I had a dual disc off of a GT750 on my Titan racer and it was a straight bolt up.  It was great.  I found I had more brake than I could use (back end kept lifting in the corners too scared to go thru fast I guess :-) so I eventually switched back to a single (GT500 drilled out and using Ferrodo Racing compound brake pads).  I still have lots of anchors.  If you are going for sexy the dual disc with an 18" alloy rim is gorgeous (one or two fingers on the lever is all that's required).  Eugene [email protected]


Question about gas tank petvalve

4-Jan-2001 - How should the fuel valve on a 73 T500 mate with the gas tank?  Should the petvalve thread into the tank (threads on outside of petvalve mate with threads on inside of gas tank mounting protrusion) or should it thread on the outside of the tank (threads on inside of the petvalve union bolt mate with external threads on the tank mounting protrusion)?  Thanks!  Matt, [email protected]


Re: Question about gas tank petvalve - 4-Jan-2001 - Hi Matt - I have a '72 T500 and had to replace my petcock.  Rather than spending $50 for a new one (it's said that repair kits aren't available) I took one off one of my son's Kawi triple tanks.  Its a manual rather than vacuum type but they attach the same.  The tank has an externally threaded stub pipe on the bottom and the valve has an internally threaded collar that secures it to the tank.  This configuration was used on quite a few Jap bikes back then.  Hope this helps Guzzi John - John Pierson


Thanks - 5-Jan-2001 - Thanks Guzzi John.  I was thrown off because my tanks' pipe stub appeared to be internally threaded.  I gave it a closer exam after reading your response and found that the internal threads were actually due to the fact that someone had welded the petvalve union bolt onto the tank pipe stub.  This must have been about the time this misguided person "rebuilt" the petvalve by encasing the entire assembly in a baseball sized wad of JB weld.  No worries though - I have a NOS. petvalve now.  Matt


Re: Thanks - 5-Jan-2001 15:00:09, - He must have been a flat tracker so the JB worked as ballast to help turn left!  GJ


T500 crankcase "breather"

3-Jan-2001 - Does the T500 take any kind of valve or pressure release plug that fits into the crank case "breather" hole between the middle two crankcase banjo bolts? Matt, [email protected]


Re: T500 crankcase "breather" - 3-Jan-2001 - Matt - I think you are talking about the fluid(water) drain hole that goes all the way thru the cases.


Oops.  I see.  My stupid mistake.  Thanks - 4-Jan-2001 - ,Matt


Head gasket

3-Jan-2001 - I am wondering if the gasket for the cylinders can be made out of gasket paper.  It is not very heavy or where can I get one.  I tried the Suzy dealer but they told me they can't get one maybe to much trouble.  Can the head gasket be reused?  I know this sounds stupid but the gasket is in prefect condition.  Atlantic Pirate


Re: Head Gasket - 3-Jan-2001 - What bike is the gasket for?  Clive


Re: Head Gasket - 4-Jan-2001 - Sorry it is for a GT750.  Atlantic Pirate


Re: Head Gasket - 4-Jan-2001 - I reckon you could cut the base gasket from gasket paper but you'd have to be careful about thickness as otherwise you may affect the port timing.  FWIW I'd use a new head gasket set as it has to do a lot of work in the 750s.  They are very cheap -- try Crooks Suzuki in the UK they do airmail and are very reliable.  Top-end gasket set for a GT380 is £11 UK  Craig


Sorry that should be - 4-Jan-2001 - Craig


Re: Head Gasket - 4-Jan-2001 - If the gasket is a genuine Suzuki one, it can be re-used so long as you are sure it is not damaged.  Wipe off the grey gunge with Methylated Spirit both sides.  Do the same with the barrel and head. Spread a thin layer of red hermitite or your local equivalent on both sides of the gasket and replace.  Easier is to buy a complete gasket and "O" ring set from Crooks Suzuki in the UK.  A full set costs around £30 or US$40.  Clive


GT750 cylinder spacer?

2-Jan-2001 - H2RICK - I have gone back through the archives and found a reference to an a CAD drawing of a spacer that goes under the GT750 cylinders.  If it would not be to much bother could you send me the DWG file.  I will see about getting some made.  Thanks  Eugene Stewart [email protected]


Re: GT750 cylinder spacer? - 3-Jan-2001 - 3mm under barrel spacers are in production in the UK.  They are water jet cut and very accurate.  Cost is aprox $25 inc post.  Clive


Re: GT750 cylinder spacer?  Who?  Where? - 3-Jan-2001 - That would be great. Lord knows I have enough things to keep me busy.  Clive do you have any more specific information ie who/where to contact for one?  Thanks Eugene Stewart, [email protected]


Re: GT750 cylinder spacer?  Who?  Where? - 3-Jan-2001 - Re: Under barrel tuning spacers for Buffs.  Please contact me direct if you require one. Clive, [email protected]


Two stroke oil

24-Dec-2000 20:48:20, - Would any one know of what's about to happen in the U.S.A. Re: two stroke oil in 2002 I have just read in the British press that the US govt are banning two stroke oil in the near future and are planning to try and replace it with some form of solid type oil (sounds like chip shop stuff to me LOL) anyway it won’t suit oil injection and Europe will follow by 2005 so anyone got any news on this?  Ian


Re: TWO STROKE OIL - 24-Dec-2000 - Well lets see you mentioned British press and US Gov.  As far as bans go the US Gov. has not even been able to pull off the ban of the AK47, AR15, MAC11, Uzi, etc as far as the press goes I find the most reliable info at the checkout isle.  Mark Walls


Re: TWO STROKE OIL - 25-Dec-2000 - Mark I think I understand what your saying.  Do you understand what the question is?  The USA will never ban guns of any description Uzi or otherwise first of all there are more gun toting citizens than motorcycle riders for a start even the motorcar industry has seen the writing on the wall smog rules electric cars etc.  Motorcycles puffing into the atmosphere will be next lead free petrol is worse than leaded if only Joe Public knew it when was the last time someone died of lead poisoning from the air we breathe?  Not counting bullets of course.  Personally I would point to volcano's, gulf war (burning of the oil wells), the latest is the ozone is repairing itself well.  Trees are not being planted as fast as they are being cut.  If the US Govt ban injection oil then pre mix is the only answer and they are working on that like I said it will be in the form of a solid!  Ever tried squeezing that into your tank filler neck?  Ian


Re: TWO STROKE OIL - 26-Dec-2000 - WELL if it happens I'm going to be looking for cases of premix injection oil.  I'm sorry if I seemed a little sarcastic.  It’s just I've sold cars with questionable pollution control on them because of a friend mechanic warning of doom. and I've sold weapons because the press and friends swore they would be confiscated with lack of compensation.  Sooooo, mark


Re: TWO STROKE OIL - 26-Dec-2000 - You want to read between the lines re: Solid 2t oil.  The articles in the British press were as with most things our motorcycle media put out pure bullshit.  Ask your self what’s the difference between pre-mix and injection.  Nothing much really in the end it does the same job except injection is more controllable.  Any change would only affect Suzuki’s anyway because the system is far more complicated than Yams, Kwaks, etc.  Suzuki’s can run on premix with minor crankshaft mods anyway.  The bottom line is: if it happens, it happens but ask your self this.  How come the Brit press know about it before yourselves.  Clive (UK)


Re: TWO STROKE OIL - 26-Dec-2000 - Clive - I am in the UK now it doesn’t take a rocket scientist the original question was aimed at our friends in the USA as they will have to use it a few years before us.  Pollution is the word and if the powers that be see fit then it will happen oil is not equal that’s why there are different types for various jobs yes we have to use what ever is available but in the USA they are carrying out tests on a solid replacement now ask yourself why?  Ian


Re: TWO STROKE OIL - 27-Dec-2000 - No way it will happen.  Do you realise how many modern outboard boat motor manufacturers (and lawnmowers chainsaws etc.) use 2 stroke oil in the U.S.?  The manufacturers of these items have lobby power in the U.S. and we have a new president who certainly is not concerned about pollution issues.  Fact: motorcycles are "bad" for the environment.  So are cars as well as any machine using fuel.  It has always been so.  But the fact is that economics run the world and until it is economically advantageous to ban 2 stroke oil - it will not happen.  Very few political causes that are not backed by economic incentives prevail.  That is just my perception I may be wrong (and often am).  Matt


Re: TWO STROKE OIL - 27-Dec-2000 - Matt you are not wrong this time.  I've been hearing warnings of doom and gloom for 15 years.  They're gonna take our bikes away and now they're gonna take "injection" oil??  The only basic difference between injector oils and premix only two stroke oils is viscosity.  I don’t care what the source this is bullshit.  Your economic argument is valid.  If it were to happen someday somebody will develop a product to take its place.  Two stroke clean burn technology is on the way and that will mean better cleaner oil technology.  Bottom line... worriers will keep worrying.  I'll keep riding my two strokes if I have to burn Kmart 5w30 automotive oil!!!  Steve Izzo, [email protected]


Re: TWO STROKE OIL - 27-Dec-2000 - I would tend to agree with Matt's statement about the economic prevailing over the environmental but I wonder if some crusading politicians won't target two-strokes simply because our little niche will be easier to eliminate than say the automotive industry?  What better way for some greasy bureaucrat to be able to tout his "love" for the "environment" than to support legislation banning two-strokes?  He's not going to piss off anybody really important (i.e. the largest corporations which wield the true political power in this country) just a few bikers and snowmobilers maybe a logger or two.  As a snowmobiler we have been hearing for years that the end may be coming for our two-cycles and certain companies are experimenting with four-stroke engines only to find them heavy lacking in sheer performance and difficult to start in cold weather.  Only time will tell if a four-stroke can be viable in snow-sled applications we know that it works well in many cases in motorcycles.  As for those of us who wish to continue to enjoy our stinky smoky 'strokers the best defence against our detractors is that we two-stroke riders (motorcyclists dirt-bikers snowmobilers jet-ski guys etc.) contribute so little to the true pollution equation that it's comparable with pissing in the ocean yeah it's there but so are the millions of gallons of oil sewage etc...  Until Detroit builds a full size SUV that gets the same mileage as my "dinosaur" and until Washington makes the Pentagon clean up it's own mess they can kiss my Castrol R burnin' butt and try to see through the blue haze.  Kris Larrivee


Re: TWO STROKE OIL - 27-Dec-2000 - Hopefully this whole issue of banning 2 strokes will have died with Al Gore's hopes of sitting in the White House.  BTW I hope he and his pinko tree hugging friends are REALLY pi$$ed about his losing the election.  Their next chances comes when Hilary decides to run in 2004??  2008??  Hopefully the American voter will NOT forget what went on with the whole "BlackWater" thing and the hi-jinks of "Slippery Willy" her "loving" husband and mentor.  Sorry for the rant... I know it's Xmas and all but this whole global warming/pollution BS really ticks me off.  Yes... there are problems... but these are solvable with intelligence... NOT news media "science".  You tell 'em Kris L.  You got my vote.  P.S. I'm on holidays but thought I'd let everyone know I hadn't OD'd on turkey and stuffing.  LOLOL.  H2RICK


Re: TWO STROKE OIL - 28-Dec-2000 - Sorry Ian but the whole thing IS BULLSHIT!!!! Clive


Re: TWO STROKE OIL - 28-Dec-2000 - Back in the 70's 2T oil was VEGETABLE. Not synthetic or Semi-Synthetic but good old vegetable oil.  Very similar to the stuff you fry your chips in (French fries).  This will work in an old two stroke.  So if and when I cannot get 2t oil from the garage I will go to the supermarket for it instead.  PLEASE NO MORE ON SUCH A NEGATIVE SUBJECT.  Clive


Re: TWO STROKE OIL - 28-Dec-2000 - If any of you read your owners manual... you will note that in the event you are out of Suzuki CCI injector oil you can use 30wt non-detergent oil in its place to get you home.  That fact that there is a saying "it will run on hair oil" proves the durability of the Suzuki 500 two-stroke.  And all the development time spent on it by the Japanese.  Hence the fact that they used B77H plugs.  With today’s oils I use B8HS or B9HS depending on the state of porting and tune of my bikes.  (Street)  Zooke


Re: TWO STROKE OIL (CLIVE) - 28-Dec-2000 - OK Clive NO NEED TO LOOSE IT! the original article was in the Jan issue of Classic Mechanics in the UK it reports that all two stroke oil will be banned in the USA, then Europe then Asia in that order.  All I asked was if anyone had heard of this report and had any information why do you seem to see it as bullshit it has come from the USA press so it must be true!  To speak to the author email him at this address [email protected], Ian


Re: TWO STROKE OIL (CLIVE) - 29-Dec-2000 - They were talking about two-stroke oil ban years ago when they said they were going to faze out lawn mowers, chainsaws, off-road dirt bikes, etc. someday it will happen. But they always come up with something to take its place. The lobbyists out there for what we still have are very strong.  But we'll see.  Zooke


Re: TWO STROKE OIL (CLIVE) - 29-Dec-2000 - Sorry guys I was out of order I apologise to one and all.  Clive


Vegetable??? Oil - 29-Dec-2000 - Clive - How about an apology to us in North America??  At NO TIME in the late 60's or all of the 70's was a "vegetable" based 2 stroke oil available in N.A... except for Castrol bean oil.  All others were MINERAL based non-synthetics.  Maybe you Limeys used some weird "vegetable" based oil but not in N.A.  H2RICK


Re: Vegetable??? Oil - 30-Dec-2000 - Castor oil... boy did that ever smell nice...when I first started fanging (riding hard) I was told that vegetable based oils like castor oil were the go.  At the speedway the aroma was heaven.  Once I took apart some Kawasaki front forks in 1971 and didn't know that I should release the springs first (I was just a spotty faced youth... funny isn't as how as you get older the spots migrate from your face to your bum cheeks, but I digress).  I removed the drain screw and copped a high pressure burst of fork oil right in the face.  Boy did that stiff stink... Japanese vegetable oil and rank... often wondered where it came from before it met my face... and yes I still stink and my face is a mess.  Happy New Year guys to everybody on my favourite web page ie this message board.  Muzza


Re: Vegetable??? Oil - 31-Dec-2000 - Muzza - Wow... and you lived to tell the tale.  In Canada at least in Suzuki’s we got FISH OIL in the forks most of the time.  Imagine the smell from THAT after 15 or 20 years.  Yes I still find/work on bikes that have the ORIGINAL fish/fork oil in them.  Incredible.  H2RICK


Re: mm fish oil? - 31-Dec-2000 - You may be right H2RICK... it probably was fish oil... I remember picking fish heads out of my teeth for weeks afterwards!  Muzza


Re: Lutefisk - 1-Jan-2001 10:30:53, -  You've discovered an ancient Norse secret.  My ancestors used to lube the oar locks with chunk of lutefisk.  It was kind of like lubricate in slab form.  Chewing friction, or heat would liquefy the stuff and the smell killed bugs too!  The oil tank could have a small grinder installed or an exhaust heat exchanger could be used to make it flow to the injector pump.  The stuff could be carried in saddlebags or just bungied on the back and a chunk added every few hundred miles.  Just think of how it might discourage tailgaters.  Happy New Year Guzzi John  - John Pierson


Re: Lutefisk - 1-Jan-2001 - GJ - Are you one of the "lutefisk lurkers" behind a bumper sticker I saw the other day??  The sticker said "Legalise Lutefisk Now".  Is this some kind of nefarious Norse "kult" to take over the free world's seafood restaurants??  LOLOLOLOL  H2RICK


Re: Lutefisk - 2-Jan-2001 00:11:41, -  The jig is up!  Uff Da!  GJ


Re: Lutefisk - 2-Jan-2001 - One of the great things about this board is how we can seamlessly move from two stroke oil conspiracies to lutefish world domination without losing anybody.  I hear that one of the weirder things that Scandinavian people do is eat Lutefish particularly at religious festivals.  Is this right or am I quite understandably confusing Scandinavia for Brazil?  As it is I reckon Lutefish is best used for lubrication.  Perhaps whale oil could be used instead of two stroke oil (there - now Norway has a sound reason for fishing for whales - scientific research always sounds a bit thin).  I use fish oil on my bikes especially the forks to stop rust.  Muzza


Apology to H2RICK

2-Jan-2001 - Hi Rick I've been doing some checking Re: 2T oils.  In Europe nearly all 2T oils manufactured by all the major oil companies were vegetable based up to 1974.  From then on there was a steady turn away from vegetable to mineral. However Castrol still make a vegetable based oil.  I am sorry if you were offended in any way by what I said.  No offence was intended.  Clive


Re: Apology to H2 RICK - 3-Jan-2001 - I apologise to H2RICK as well for bulldusting about Australian weather beaches birds beer wine and song... it is all bulldust mate. It really is freezing over here and we are suffering... went down to 27 degrees C last night!  Brrrrr, Muzza


Muzza I hope that... - 3-Jan-2001 - it snows like a b*st*rd come your winter :)  Haven't had a ride for 5-plus weeks here thanks to the snow pissing rain and of course the salt on the roads which my 380's 24-year-old chrome doesn't like for some reason...  But seriously I'm just jealous... wish we had your climate.  Craig (whinging pom)


Re: Muzza I hope that... - 3-Jan-2001 - Yeah but I forgot to mention the flies, snakes, spiders, crocodiles, sharks, and Rolf Harris.  Hey hold on a minute... you blokes have got Rolf Harris!!!  Muzza


Re: Muzza I hope that... - 3-Jan-2001 - Good thinking by you Aussies to send him over here... but I do wish they wouldn't use salt on the roads here as it f**ks chrome and alloy.  They manage not to use it in other Euro countries so why they do here I've no idea!  Craig


Re: You're a bunch-a big girls - 3-Jan-2001 - Stop your weather whining I was out skiing yesterday and it was sunny and reached +15F!  I had to strip off everything to keep from swooning from the heat.  I bet you Aussies never seen anything like a 54 yr old #250+ Norwegian shushing through the woods!  Yeah I know a gorilla on an RD.  Night night Guzzi John - JP


Re: Clive & vegetable oil - 3-Jan-2001 - No apology necessary BUT I am astounded to hear such a thing.  What oil brands were available at that time in England??  Were major North American brands available??  i.e. Bardahl, Torco, Spectro??  What about "house" brands from the manufacturers i.e. Yamaha and Suzuki??  All brands mentioned and NA produced/branded Castrol were/are mineral based.  Were oils on the Continent also mineral based??  This is real arcane stuff but I kind of fancy myself as having a fair amount of knowledge concerning oils generally and motorcycle oils in particular.  I'm really interested in this.  Is there some place I can look up info on this??  Thanks.  H2RICK


Re: Clive & vegetable oil - 4-Jan-2001 - Duckhams and Castrol R40 were the go.  Muzza


Re: Clive & vegetable oil - 4-Jan-2001 - Castrol Duckhams, Shell, BP, Esso, (Exxon I think in NA).  All produced it.  I will try and get as much info as possible for you Rick.  Clive


Re: Clive & vegetable oil - 4-Jan-2001 - This is TOOOOO strange.  Maybe it had something to do with having to import oil from Saudi??  This is a REALLLLY deep mystery.  I await your further info Clive.  Thanks to Muzza too.  H2RICK


Re: Clive & vegetable oil - 5-Jan-2001 - Something to do with the British psyche... H2... remember at that stage they also thought that Jap bikes were a passing fad and wouldn't last (I remember being put down all of the time with... "when do you ever see an old Jap bike on the road" in the early 70s... boots on the other foot now).  Still it's Empire and all that old boy.  "Map of the world is red Muzza" (and I don't mean commo, "Sun never sets etc"  Muzza


T500 parts anyone?

1-Jan-2001 - Still got many great T500 parts left from a 71 T500 including a seat and exhausts that are like brand new.  Too many tire kickers and not enough serious buyers anybody out there in need of some stuff and ready to buy now not in a few months?  Let me know and we'll work something out.  Kris Larrivee, [email protected]


Re: T500 Parts Anyone? - 2-Jan-2001 - What do you want for the pipes plus shipping to the UK.  Any good gearbox parts in with the spares?  Clive, [email protected]


Re: T500 Parts Anyone? - 3-Jan-2001 - Hey Have you got a nice left side cover? I will repaint and I need it for my 72 so the badge is different.  Sorry I didn’t get back to you earlier.  I have 5 projects and the money flows.  Thanks Mark Walls


Re: T500 Parts Anyone? - 3-Jan-2001 - Hey Mark.  I've got that left hand side cover off the 71.  It's perfect no cracks or anything.  The previous owner painted it a colour close to that of Zooke's bike (see the picture on this board) so it would have to be repainted but this is the perfect candidate for it.  I was asking US$25 let me know what you think.  Thanks.  Kris Larrivee


Reimo 900 GTR

1-Jan-2001 - As there has been some discussion around the Reimo 900 GTR I have this picture of this rare beast on my website.  Muzza


Re: Reimo 900 GTR - 1-Jan-2001 - That is Muzza


Re: Reimo 900 GTR - 1-Jan-2001 - Pretty zoomy.  Is the name a takeoff on Remo Williams riding a Bridgestone 350 of some kind??  LOLOLOLOL  P.S. no more torturing us unfortunates with tales of your weather in Oz.  I/we can't take anymore.  Just KNOWING what it's like down there right now is bad enough without you rubbing it in.  LOLOLOL  I just got back from my annual Xmas sojourn in "Winterpeg" (Winnipeg Manitoba... about 1100 km east of Calgary).  We were greeted by -35 C weather and MOUNTAINS of snow.  It snowed on and off the whole week I was there and the only time I saw the sun was the day I left.  Thank God the rental company had quite a few Ford Explorer 4WD SUV's in their fleet.  H2RICK


Re: Reimo 900 GTR - 2-Jan-2001 - Reimo was a German auto supplier I think!!!  Really can't find any info on this mob.  Come on our German friends - how about some of that famous German detail - chuck us lackadaisical Aussies some facts - please.  As to H2RICK's pathetic plea... we don't aim to torture we merely describe honestly our unique predicament... sun beautiful beaches birds and kangaroos... all sent to torment us... how we long for snow rain and cool weather.  Oh Hell on earth as long as no-one else wakes up to how horrible it is here it will remain un-polluted and un-crowded.  Also Aussies are painful bastards prone to drinking beer talking bulls --- and cooling meat on BBQs... no couth among us, no culture and 12 months of the year riding weather.  Sorry H2RICK I think I just blew it.  Muzza


Re: Reimo 900 GTR - 2-Jan-2001 - The Reimo 900 was German and as far as I know only 6 were ever built.  I had the honour to be able to inspect and sit on the late Thomas Wahle's beautiful example at Stafford (UK) in 1997 when he brought it over from Germany to display on our stand... happy days!  Clive


Re: Torture by Muzza - 3-Jan-2001 - Nice picture of the 'roos Muzza.  A real pick-me-up I'm sure.  Your description of life in Oz was just what I needed.  LOLOLOL  Thanks to you and Clive for info on Reimo.  I'll pass that along to the Water Buffalo King.  I'm sure it'll make his day.  H2RICK


Heads and wheels for sale.  Also a Woodley TR500

30-Dec-2000 - I'm off me head... it's New Year's eve in Oz already!  Standard heads for sale for T500s... ready to skim or squish.  None cracked... single or in pairs.  Plenty of drum braked wheels... front or back.  Woodley TR500 also for sale... complete US$4,750 - or build your own... Alloy race tank... US$750 Race seat and oil tank... US$250 Full race fairing... US$300 TR braced race frame... powder coated... US$1850 Race swing arm... US$150 Fairing and tacho mounts... US$250 Alloy rimmed front wheel and race tyre... US$200 Rear drum brake wheel and race tyre US$150 Racing chambers... US$450 34mm racing carbs and filters... US$300 alloy clip-ons... US$100 rear sets... US$150 tapered race steering head bearings... US$100 twin front disks lines and m/c... US$300 35mm forks axle and triple clamps... US$300 electronic ignition inc coils... US$250 electronic tach... US$150 race ported engine... US$1200 Koni rear shocks... US$300 Steering damper... US$150 Throttle and cable... US$50 Clutch lever and cable... US$50 Racing chain... US$100 Rear brake cable and torque arm... US$30 rear brake shoes plate and axle... US$50 Bolts nuts and screws kit... US$50 Full kit only... will not separate.  Muzza


You Tease!!!  Work for an ad agency? - 31-Dec-2000 - Stephen


Re: Heads and wheels for sale Also a Woodley TR500 - 31-Dec-2000 - Wish I did they make squillions don't they?  Muzza


Re: Heads and wheels for sale Also a Woodley TR500 - 31-Dec-2000 - Muzza it sounds as if your retiring from racing?  Or just shifting surplus to requirements.  Happy new year anyway.  Ian


Re: Heads and wheels for sale Also a Woodley TR500 - 31-Dec-2000 - sadly retired... too old and too ugly for the sport... but I'm not giving up bikes or my Suzis just sad to see a TR500 not being used the way it should be.  Muzza


68 Cobra side cover needed!!!

30-Dec-2000 - Anyone got a repairable 68 Cobra side cover?  Need one for my Daytona project bike for Frank Melling.  Zooke, [email protected]


Re: 68 COBRA SIDE COVER NEEDED!!! - 30-Dec-2000 - It's a great big heavy steel thing maybe a fibreglass copy would be preferable.  Maybe you don't need advice maybe I'll go to bed it is New Years eve here already.  Happy New Year guys!  Muzza


Triple disks on a GT750?

30-Dec-2000 - Is anyone aware of a factory triple disk kit available on the GT750?  I have seen a 10 3/4 inch drilled disk with a matching calliper that supposedly is for the GT750.  The spider matches the front 11 1/2 inch disks.  The problem is I've never heard of such a kit being available so it may actually be from a GS.  Stephen, [email protected]


Re: Triple disks on a GT750? - 30-Dec-2000 - The GS series had some identical brake rotors to the GT series.  No 750 triple I ever saw came with triple discs.  I did modify one of my GT750s to a rear GS550 swingarm calliper and disc assembly.  I had to make a special foot peg and rear master for it though.  Zooke


Re: Vallelunga - 30-Dec-2000 - Some Suzuki dealers had some specials made to clear surplus stock... these normally used Italian cast iron disk rotors and aluminium cast wheels.  Twin disks up front and a single rear disk.  The Vallelunga is an example of this... both in T500 and GT750 styles.  These machines are very rare.  The wheels and triple disks were available separately as kits and were very reasonably priced!  Unfortunately when they were available I had moved on from T and GTs (temporarily) and never thought twice about them.  Muzza


Re: Triple disks on a GT750? - 31-Dec-2000 - The Vallelunga was an Italian machine not only 3 disc's a few had works motors they were fitted with fairings and race type seats I have only seen one for sale in the UK an import.  Like Muzza say's very rare.  Ian


Re: Triple disks on a GT750? - 31-Dec-2000 - I believe that another special was the Reimo I think made in Germany.  It was 900cc and had special pipes triple discs mag wheels special fairing and seat.  I only saw a picture of one at a British Show in Classic Racer.  Zooke


Re: Triple disks on a GT750? Zooke - 31-Dec-2000 - What pistons would those be from? It's nigh on impossible to find forged pistons for TR500 let alone 900cc for GT750 Mr Sheene had a rather large TR(750) don’t know if that was perhaps some thing to do with it? ,Ian


Re: Triple disks on a GT750? Zooke - 31-Dec-2000 - The Reimo was a special beast built in Germany and very expensive too.  Don't know what piston suppliers they had... probably Trablant!  :-)  Yes find me some pistons... T600 Suzuki twin maybe on the cards.  Muzza


Top end rebuild question

29-Dec-2000 15:01:10, - I got my 1st oversize re-bored cylinders back from the machine shop & am ready to commence putting the top end back together on my T500K.  I have new oversized pistons and rings plus new wrist pins top end bearings and circlips.  I have a few nit-picky questions to ask perhaps you gentlemen might be kind enough to answer:  1)The new rings are stamped as 0.5 oversized.  They do not indicate however which (if any) is the top and bottom ring.  Any difference?  2) My new wrist pins can be pushed into the pistons without heating. Chilton's manual suggests this should not be the case.  They seem a real tight fit to me.  Does this matter?  3) Should I use "assembly lube" on the cylinder walls bearings etc., or use 2-stroke oil?  4) How much 2-stroke oil should I leave in the crankcase before closing it up?  Now it is 3/4 full of a 70:30 oil:gas mix.  Does it matter?  Thanks in advance men.  I've never done a top end before it is a gratifying experience so far.  P.S. My gas tank is stripped sanded patched and Kreemed.  Matt


Re: Top end rebuild question - 29-Dec-2000 - Rings fit either ring grove.  The stamping must face upwards.  Check the end gap on each ring by GENTLY pushing it into the bore with a piston. then measure the end gap with feeler gauges. The limits will be in your manual.  Don’t worry about being able to push fit the wrist pins in its normal.  Lube up the barrel small end and pin with 2t oil or Graphogen (black graphite paste).  Before finally rebuilding the top end MAKE sure the port windows are chamfered as per the manual.  Lastly any excess 2t oil can be drained from the cases via the two crank chamber drain plugs.  Clive


Re: Top end rebuild question - 30-Dec-2000 - There should be no difference between top & bottom rings but I “think” they may be keystone design in which case they only fit one way.  The markings on the ring should face UP to the crown of the piston.…  and don't forget to line the gaps up with the pegs on the piston!  Don't worry bout the wrist pins they sound fine.  Use a good 2-stroke lube to put everything together and I'd try and take some of that mix out of the cases it sounds too much.  A turkey baster syringe (from a cooking shop) is ideal for this stuff.  Good luck and enjoy!  Craig


"Hammer mechanics!"

29-Dec-2000 - The barn cleaners are still down due to a blown gearbox on the conveyor that takes the BS from the cleaners and deposits it in the spreader wagons.  Fun in the snow without skis!  Back to buff stuff.  I've discovered nasty hammer marks on the two centre flywheels adjacent to the crank pin.  This reminds of the story of Kell Carruthers finding his rider-none other than the late Jarno Saarinen-attempting to re-true one of Kell's blueprinted cranks with a ball peen hammer.  Needless to say Kell nearly brained Jarno with a fresh crank!  I hope this work was not done in some shop that actually charged money for it!  I found my old racer buddy Bill Bune has a web site for his shop and his prices seem fair so I think he'll get my work.  Can someone confirm that the rods are 130mm centre to centre and that the crankpins are 24mm?  If so Wiseco has rod kits for $90.  Happy New Year! Guzzi John - John Pierson


Final tweaking of the T500R

29-Dec-2000 - Well happy new year to all!!!  I have finally just about got the beast running on line.  Question is: can I do any harm running foam pods & standard jets?  I have left larger jets in for now (190's) they go quite well but it appears 150's go harder.  Should I sacrifice performance (the motor is stock) for the richer mixture or can I run her on the standard jets?  If I had done some porting & polishing I figure the larger ones would do the bike justice.  Also we have now got this garbage they call "lead replacement" fuel its playing hell with the old 202 in the car unless I use octane booster so figure it may come into play with the bike.  Hope you all had a good Chrissy & the new year brings good fortune to all.  Cheers for now Paul.  (Brisbane), [email protected]


Re: Final tweaking of the T500R - 30-Dec-2000 - Without any work done to the motor and going with pods instead of the stock airbox and filter.  I have only gone up one size on the mains.  On one occasion I went two size.  It depends on the bike and plug chops and your riding style.  I ride hard in the upper RPMs.  Plus I also go to one plug colder than stock using synthetic oils.  As for the leaded fuel.  Your T500 runs fine on low lead or unleaded.  Here in the States I had always owned till 6 years ago several 50's cars (Oldsmobiles).  I ran them on unleaded with no problems.  Just didn't run them hard.  As I did not have different valves and seats installed (Hardened) to work better with the non-cushioning properties of unleaded.  Zooke


The "best" T500?

28-Dec-2000 09:40:24, -  I am thinking of adding to my collection that currently consists of a '74 GT750L a '76 RD 400C and a '91 Suzuki VX800 (sorry a four-stroke used for commuting to work).  I am considering a Titan project for the winter.  What do you think is the "best" year?  Based on what I've read the '72 has a lot going for it.  The 47 hp engine and reasonable gas mileage are pluses but the drum front brake and the small crankcase capacity seem to be minuses.  The styling on the '72 seems to be pleasantly outlandish.  I don't think I would want to go too much later into the GT500 series.  Tell me what you think is the premo model and don't hold back!  Also if you are looking for a good home for your extra Titan let me know; I promise to give it a lot of TLC.  Bill, [email protected]


Re: The "Best" T500? - 28-Dec-2000 - Either the T500R of 1971 or the T500K of 1973.  You already know the pitfalls of the early bikes so keeping one running and in good condition shouldn’t be a problem.  The best looking by far has to be the K model a little down on BHP but so what.  A good one will still do a ton solo.  As for the front drum brake again no problem IF its well set up.  And it stops in the wet!!  GET ONE OF ANY MODEL EXCEPT THE GT500 AND YOU WONT BE DISAPPOINTED...  GO FOR IT!!!!  Clive


Re: The " Very Best " T500? - 28-Dec-2000 - I agree with Clive with one aesthetic preference for model '71 (try this  As far as the original drum brake prays God does not stop the bike better is than to put the four shoe brake of the GT750 4LS.  Maurizio


Re: The "Best" T500? - 28-Dec-2000 - Truth be known there is no best T500.  The only solution I have found so far is to have one of each... the T500/5 the T500J the GT500 and the TR500.  The T500/5 because it is so 60s and it set the standard... the 1st of the many and so outrageous with those huge 34mm sand cast carbs.  The T500J because I had one as a pimply faced youth... but the T500R is much more brutish to look at.  (I avoid the T500 K L and M as they were castrated 500s, which were no longer performance machines - still a good source of interchangeable spare parts though)  The GT500s because they finally had a disk brake and electronic ignition shame about the styling though.  The TR500 because there is so little that offers more fun for the bang and they had the styling handling performance and braking we all wanted for the road.  Muzza


Re: The "Best" T500? - 28-Dec-2000 - I have nearly all the T500s except the 72.  I just recently got a 68 manufactured in early Dec 67.  I restored a 71 and then raced it.  I would have to say the 71 is my favourite and is now my team colours in the purple and white.  The 68 will also be restored and ridden daily.  Just can leave them sit around.  I am also building a 68 for the race track to be ridden by "Frank Melling" at Daytona in 2001.  Of all my T500s I would have to say the 68 Cobra 71 T500R and I would like to own a 70 T500III in Green.  Zooke


Re: The "Best" T500? - 29-Dec-2000 - Hey there Zooke!  Can You please tell what engine/frame number you have on your 67' and/or 68' Cobras?  I also have one that seems to be a 68' although it is registered in 69' and I am therefore seeking for some reference numbers.  Stefan in Finland


Re: Stefan... - 30-Dec-2000 - Stefan - Actually both bikes were manufactured in 67.  The partial (frame and motor) is T500-10553 and the complete one is T500-11025. Both have matching engine numbers.  Zooke


"Barn cleaners ugh!"

27-Dec-2000 - Returning to work after the Xmas holiday is always an adventure.  Due to frigid temps and operator ineptitude we have two barn cleaners and the gearbox of the conveyor that takes the 'Doodoo' from the cleaners to the spreader wagon in many broken pieces.  So much for Xmas surprises.  I finally brought the crank in today and had just enough time to pull the alternator rotor off. on the other end of the crank there is a sleeve with a wide flange that prevents the seal from sliding off.  What is the recommended method of removing this sleeve and flange item?  The crank has all the markings of having been rebuilt once before.  I imagine it was redone and then the bike sat long enough for the small ends to get rusty.  The seals are soft and supple so it would appear that it had little if any running time after the rebuild.  A pox on somebody for letting it get that way!  Nice to hear from Luciano in Brazil I really get a kick out of messages from bike lovers in other parts of the world.  I'm slowly recovering from all those Xmas goodies (I look like the Hindenburg Zeppelin!)  By now Guzzi John - John Pierson



27-Dec-2000 10:28:43, - I am Looking for a TR750 replica tank.  Can anyone help.  ATLANTIC PIRATE


Re: TANK - 27-Dec-2000 - Atlantic Pirate - I have a replica TR500 petrol tank...I don’t know how similar it is to a TR750 tank?  P.S. No petrol tap.  Regards Dave Evans, [email protected]


Re: TANK - 28-Dec-2000 - If you have enough money there is a guy in the states who makes alloy TR500 tanks... he is at...  Everyone note this address down 'cos everyone asks where can I get a tank all of the time... mind you US$950 is a lot of money but that is what it costs!  Muzza


Crank seals

26-Dec-2000 - Anybody know what it costs to replace crank seals, parts and labour, crank already removed?  Kevin, [email protected]


Re: CRANK SEALS - 26-Dec-2000 - Hi Kevin First of all what motor is it?  What part of the world are you in?  It makes a difference.  Also do you belong to a club?  This can be very important because many clubs have engineers who do the job for beer money!  To give some idea to re-seal a Buff crank in the UK without club support costs about £400 with club support including re-loading the big ends costs £100.  Clive


Hard case saddlebags for titan

25-Dec-2000 - The fellow I got my T500K from gave me some fibreglass side cases that he says go on the bike.  He claimed they were factory issued on some of the bikes.  I have my doubts about this though.  The cases look period and all but they don't say Suzuki anywhere: they say Shoei under the lid.  I don't remember seeing any pictures of cases on any of the bikes on Muzza's website.  Does anyone know anything about this?  I would like to mount them on my bike.  I know the thought of bolting anything so heavy and utilitarian on your T500 is enough to make some of you racers wake up in the middle of the night screaming but I think side cases would be cool.  Thanks.  Matt


GT550 carby top rubbers

24-Dec-2000 - does anybody have an idea of where I may get some of those rubbers located at the top of the carbys on some models to prevent the entry of dirt and water I assume.  I am not sure of the model either because my racing sidecar carby's had the traditional throttle cables.  J Daley, [email protected]


Re: GT550 CARBY TOP RUBBERS - 27-Dec-2000 - If you're talking about the rubber condoms that fit around the throttle cable where it enters the top of the carb try the parts fiche for the PE250 A or B or any motocrosser from that era (Late 70's early 80's).  That should be what you want.  If not post a new message with more info and someone will be able to help.  H2RICK


"Happy holidays"

24-Dec-2000 - Its -15F this morning.  It looks like Xmas expenses have taken the Buff off the back burner and put it in the freezer.  That's OK wives spend money wisely right?  All I have to do to get things into perspective is hold my grand daughter in my arms our metal toys definitely take a distant second to such joy!  God Yule and Happy New Year! Guzzi John - John Pierson


Re: "Happy Holidays" - 24-Dec-2000 - Here in Switzerland it snows (then is all normal school) the Suzuki it is in garage to the warmth and waits for the new season.  Happiness to all.  Maurizio


Re: "Happy Holidays"  - 24-Dec-2000 - here it's low 30's of a day 0 of a night and the 500's freezing it's pipes off in the barn.  Merry Christmas to everyone in the smoky mountains.  Justin Howes


Re: "Happy Holidays"  - 24-Dec-2000 - Actually got warm enough to ride today.  But didn't.  Worked on my next race T500.  Merry Christmas to all.  Zooke


Re: "Happy Holidays" from Wales - 24-Dec-2000 - rained all day in North Wales today Christmas Eve but not too cold for time of year at sea level but snow on Snowdon have a good Christmas and happy New Year to one and all safe riding.  Ian


Re: "Happy Holidays"  - 24-Dec-2000 - England - Raining as usual!!  Trev


Re: Australia  - 25-Dec-2000 - My son and I are travelling for two weeks with 20 other CT110 Hondas around Tasmania a colony of Australia.  We have temperatures of 40C and snow to contend with.  Normally December here are very hot and dry but we have had major floods and now snow in the higher places.  This green house effect gets blamed for it here.  Too many two strokes perhaps.  J Daley, [email protected]


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