Suzuki T and GT Bulletin Board Archives
Page 4

Motorcycle chain

24-Dec-2000 - Hey guys.  I wired the instrument cluster (thanks Kris) into the rats nest of wires hiding inside the headlamp housing it was touch and go there for a minute but I'm sure I got it all right.  Question: what the heck is it that can cause the drive chain to be slack at one point in a tire revolution but tight at another point?  I remember the chain on my last motorbike (5 yrs. ago - it was a '82 Honda CM400 (I hear you guys snickering but I loved that little bike!)) did the same thing.  So when I adjust the chain for correct play I have to kind of find an "average" between the slacker part and the tighter part in one revolution of the rear tire.  Any advice?  Matt


Re: motorcycle chain - 24-Dec-2000 - This problem occurs when a sprocket is not concentric on the shaft.  This can be caused by a poorly machined sprocket (either gearbox or rear wheel-more likely) where either the teeth are machined non-concentric or the shaft hole is bored offset.  This amounts to the same thing causing the teeth to run out.  Try taking the chain off the rear wheel and spinning it-watch the teeth as they rotate.  You should be able to see any offset if the teeth appear to 'wobble' as the wheel goes round.  The other possibility (more remote) is if the gearbox shaft has been ground undersize for any reason.  Hope this helps.  Phil C


Re: motorcycle chain - 24-Dec-2000 - You have sprockets that are worn uneven.  Causing a tight spot and loose spot.  You will have to adjust the chain to the tight spot.  Make sure it is not too loose at the loose spot.  If so you will have to replace both sprockets and chain.  Zooke


Re: chain also wears unevenly - 25-Dec-2000 - To add to your information pack chain itself can wear at an uneven rate for a variety of reasons.  As Zooke pointed out when you do change a component of the drive system it all needs to be done at the same time.  J Daley, [email protected]


OK thanks.  Merry Xmas - 24-Dec-2000 - Matt


The piston sizes

22-Dec-2000 - the size on the Buffalo pistons are 0.05 over and the Titan set is standard.  The pistons don't have the oil grooves below the rings.  I don't have any rings just pistons don't have the part #s either.  I went by the size and shape of the pistons. any more questions just let me know.  Justin Howes, [email protected]


Re: the piston sizes - 22-Dec-2000 - What do you want for the buff set?  Guzzi John - John Pierson, [email protected]


Re: the piston sizes - 23-Dec-2000 - I'll take what a set costs without rings + shipping.  Justin Howes, [email protected]


Re: the piston sizes - 23-Dec-2000 - By whose price list?  GJ


I'll take $110.00 for the buffalo set $75.00 for the t-500 set and $35.00 for the spare left side 0.05 - 24-Dec-2000 - Justin Howes, [email protected]


Re: I'll take $110.00 for the buffalo set $75.00 for the T500 set and $35.00 for the spare left side 0.05 - 29-Dec-2000 - Mmmm... Confucius of money kill discussion dead, Takahashi San


????? Thought I priced them cheap enough????? - 29-Dec-2000 - Justin


Part #'s

22-Dec-2000 14:09:56, - Does anyone have the part numbers for all of the seals in the petcock for a T500 1975?  I have just recently tore my petcock apart and the seals are trashed.  Any help with part numbers would greatly be appreciated.  Thanks Greg, [email protected]


Re: part #'s - 22-Dec-2000 - Gasket Filter Cup: 44346-10050 Top Gasket: 44348-10050 Fuel Cock Assembly: 44300-18450 No other parts are listed as spares but I believe Suzuki did a repair kit.  Unfortunately none of my documentation lists it.  If you are still stuck for bits post again in the new year and I will try to help further.  Clive


Photo T500R '71

22-Dec-2000 - One of the beautiful-ist photos of the T500 ' 71, Maz


Any good pages about jetting online? - 21-Dec-2000 - Yadda yadda my GT500 is getting better and better.  After I borrowed a handful of main jets from a friend I had my next try at fitting chambers on my GT500 wannabe cafe racer.  A few days of trying jets passed on since then and I think I am getting quite close to a correct jetting.  Now that the changes are more subtle I am not that sure anymore about what I feel.  Bike running hot low not from the inlet bike running OK half throttle but not that good on full...  Does anybody here know good sites about jetting?  Help would be really appreciated.  Gijs, [email protected]


Re: jetting - 25-Dec-2000 - From my experience of sidecar racing with GT550 engines the best move for you now is a dyno.  You need a consistent measure of what is happening now to get the final tuning correct.  Unless you are at a track and have the gear to measure the variations you are making.  Remember that you can melt a piston very quickly if you lean it too much.  Needles come with a variety of angles and stops etc and attention to these may also be necessary now.  Note the bike with the fastest top speed does not always have the lowest lap times.  J Daley, [email protected]


X6 swing arm

21-Dec-2000 - I forgot which swing arms are a direct fit for the T500.  I can get one off a 1966? X6.  Is that one of the ones that goes directly on the Titan frame?  I need a shorter wheel-base for road-racing.  Thanks.  Kris Larrivee


The info on Muzza's site suggests it was the T350 swingarm which fit the T500 but I have heard this disputed. - 21-Dec-2000 - Stephen, [email protected]


Re: T250 swingarm - 21-Dec-2000 - I have a T250 swingarm.  I will check tomorrow on my T500 frame if it fits.  Got your pictures too.  And let me know what you still have left.  Zooke


Re: T250 swingarm - 22-Dec-2000 - Hey Zooke good to hear from you.  I figured you were busy with the holidays wasn't sure if you got the pictures.  I've got everything except the instrument cluster shift shaft and lever and mirrors.  Let me know what you need.  I just sold 3 CB400Fs today to a collector/restorer from Canada.  I had earmarked the funds for the GT-racer but as I blew the track out on my snowsled last night (one hundred miles an hour down an icy road with no brakes!  What fun!)  I guess I'll have to put the money towards that.  The winters are long here and without some two-stroke powerhouse to satisfy my cravings I'll go nuts.  Send me your Christmas list of T500 parts and we'll see what Santa can do.  Have a good holiday!  Kris Larrivee


Re: T250 swingarm - 22-Dec-2000 - Fitted T250 to my replica TR500 fits no problem also fitted disc at same time, using GS750 hub T500 sprocket carrier as it fits, made new calliper carrier and spacers to suit and its all Suzuki parts.  Ian


Re: X6 swingarm - 23-Dec-2000 - The T250 and T350 will fit but you may need to reposition the shock mounts.  Muzza


Is titan engine vibration as bad as people suggest?

20-Dec-2000 - I havenít got my 500 roadworthy yet and bike testers seemed to think it was excessive but "not as bad as the British twins".  Some testers even said their hands tingled and they could barely keep their feet on the pegs during a semi prolonged cruise.  My common sense tells me this is a exaggeration.  Mark, [email protected]


Re: Is titan engine vibration as bad as people suggest? - 21-Dec-2000 - They do vibrate but... I've ridden two and one vibrated far worse than the other.  The good news is they only really vibrate above about 5000 rpm, which is 90+ in top gear.  Also they're unlike any other stroker in that they pull like a Bonneville from about 2500 rpm.  From what I understand an hour spent getting the point gap dwell and timing *just right* and synching the carbs nicely helps a lot.  In short they do vibrate a bit but it's more the character of the bike than a fault.  Craig


Re: Is titan engine vibration as bad as people suggest? - 21-Dec-2000 - My '72 rattles at higher revs but up to 60 mph or so it's quite tolerable.  Too bad they didn't give them rubber mounts like the buffs but that would make the chassis a little looser.  My RD 400 20 years back was rubberised and that really helped comfort.  Guzzi John - John Pierson


Re: Is titan engine vibration as bad as people suggest? - 21-Dec-2000 - Yes I agree they all vibrate to varying degrees a well put together crank helps no end also a quick check on the engine mounting bolts may reveal if they are either too tight or to loose either way this could contribute to the vibes man!!  Good luck.  Trev


Re: Is titan engine vibration as bad as people suggest? - 22-Dec-2000 - Muzzaís got a good anti-vibration mod on his site that is supposed to work well.  BTW - you must let a parallel 2T engine move from side to side because that is what its trying to do. Clamp it up too tight and you will dump all of the energy from the side to side oscillation right into the frame.  I plan to do the mod on my T500L.  Phil C


Re: Is titan engine vibration as bad as people suggest? - 22-Dec-2000 - Thanks for the input.  I think for now I'll do the gearbox fluid capacity mod.  Make the bike hum and see for myself what I think of the vibration.  Maybe in the meantime I'll find some later cases and do the rubber bush mod on them even if I don't install them they will be worth at least a couple bucks to someone.  Again thanks and I'm very happy to find people interested in classic bike.  Mark Walls, [email protected]


Buff final drive chains

20-Dec-2000 - 630 drive chains will not fit a Buff without spacers behind both sprockets.  This leads to problems with clearance between the chain and chain guard.  Modern 530 "O" ring chain is fine.  I use Izumi chains and get around 8 to 10,000 miles per chain and sprocket set.  If your Buff has well balanced carbs correct chain tension and good shock absorbers in the rear hub snatch can be almost none existent.  Like all two strokes a Buff works best on a rising throttle.  Any snatch at low revs on the over-run can be minimised with a slight touch of throttle and feathering the rear brake.  Its all down to Character!  Clive


"Santa came early"

20-Dec-2000 - I got a reply from Sam at Vintage Parts regarding my Buffalo parts and it looks like he has everything I need!  The prices seem quite fair so all I need to do is consult my banker (I mean the wife) to see if my Xmas budget will cover such goodies.  Thanks to all for your feedback got to go feed the cats and dogs by for now-Guzzi John - GJ


Give the in-laws a lump of coal and send the kids to bed hungry - just get those parts! - 20-Dec-2000 - Stephen


T500 Clutch

20-Dec-2000 - My T500L suffers from a very heavy clutch action.  Although the bike is apart for refurbishment etc I rode it last summer but when I got back in the house my hand ached with the force I needed to pull in the lever.  Is this heavy clutch normal?  My motor has several mods done to it and I havenít stripped it yet to find out so it might have some heavier duty springs in it.  Anyone got any comments or reasonable suggestions?  Regards Phil C - UK, [email protected]


Re: T500 Clutch - 20-Dec-2000 - I put heavy duty springs in the clutch on my T500M when the plates were re-newed.  The clutch action became slightly heavy but not to any great extent.  Possible causes for your poor clutch action could be a dirty and under greased quick lift mechanism worn clutch push rods or a worn or badly routed clutch cable.  Its also possible that your clutch cable has been oiled along with it having a nylon inner.  Clive


Re: T500 Clutch - 21-Dec-2000 - Hi - I am experiencing the same heavy clutch action as you are.  I did put three new heavy springs along with three of the worn old ones and this did make it a pain.  I cleaned and greased all of the clutch action parts on the engine but although it is so heavy that soon my left arm will be twice as thick as my right one...  Sorry that I cannot help more than giving my sympathy this time!  Stefan in Finland


Re: T500 Clutch - 22-Dec-2000 - Thanks Stefan!  Guess thatís what your left hand must be for?  Phil C


Not that anyone would... but would it be possible to...

20-Dec-2000 - I don't plan to do this but... would GT750 rods fit on a GT550 crank?  GT550 stroke is 62mm; GT750 stroke is 64mm.  Could you use the 750 rods with a spacer under the jugs?  Is 2mm enough of a difference in stroke to notice?  Then could you use H1 overbore pistons from Wiseco?  The 0.080 overbore for the H1 is 62mm which is a 1mm overbore for the GT550?  Pistons for the H1 are still available from Wiseco.  Not that anyone would do this but could it work?  Kiro Yamaguchisan


Longer rods and stroke - 20-Dec-2000 - Stroke is a function of the crank not the rods. Remember engine size is called displacement - in other words how much volume is displaced in each cycle.  If you use a 2mm longer rod and simply shim the cylinder up 2 mm to match you just end up with a taller engine not a longer stroke.  The stroke is the distance the piston moves up and down and that will be determined by the size of the crank.  That's why engine builders refer to "stroker cranks" (for example take a look in any VW performance magazine) and the easiest way to increase displacement is by increasing bore.  Stephen, [email protected]


Re: Not that anyone would...but would it be possible to... - 21-Dec-2000 - Longer rods are a definite plus.  I can't give the specifics but the car guys know the difference in power characteristics of longer rod V8s.  It has something to do with leverage and mechanical advantage.  Guzzi John - John Pierson


Long rods - 21-Dec-2000 - That likely has something to do with the shallower angle the rods passes through as it rotates around the crank.  Of course a longer rod is also (all things equal) a heavier rod so there would be losses as well.  Stephen, [email protected]


Buff piston part #s

20-Dec-2000 - Latest Pt No's for Buff Pistons are: std L 12120-31002 std R 12110-31002 std rings 12140-30010 1st over L 12103-31870-050 R 12103-31830-050 note: supplied in kit form with rings.  2nd over L 12103-31870-100 R 12103-31830-100 note: supplied in kit form with rings.  Clive


Newly acquired 72 T500J In need of advice

19-Dec-2000 - Just scored a complete original 72 J for 150.  I need a ignition switch and any colour J left side cover.  Also interested in other clean parts.  But basically looking for modification input.  I'm going to re-bore clean rough edges of intakes  Polish exhaust ports top of piston and inside of heads.  Also make sure pistons are equal weight.  Now for ?'s What about taking 0.010 off heads?  I have RD's and the stock baffles can be drilled for freer flow.  Can this be done to the T?  Also on RD's It's recommended to keep stock y boot for carb intakes and mount K&N.  Also where do I start with re-jet with these mods and where do I find jets?  Also what Suzuki front ends will bolt on?  Are there any pipes and rearsets to be had out there?  Any input would be appreciated.  Thanks Mark Walls, [email protected]


Re: Newly acquired 72 T500J In need of advice - 20-Dec-2000 - A good polish everywhere will help.  A tip I've heard with pistons is to use GT750 Buff pistons: they are lighter than T500 versions and give pretty much the same port timing helping it to rev better.  Apart from cleaning and polishing I'd be tempted to leave everything else pretty much stock...  The J models were still pretty quick and with the re-bore you'll enhance the squish a bit.  They run best with stock airbox and you can shorten the baffles a bit but a good stocker is good for 100+ and accelerates Ďveryí quick.  Craig


Re: Newly acquired 72 T500J In need of advice - 20-Dec-2000 - Bore it, polish it then leave it alone.  Your J was the last of the 47BHP T500's. The K, L and M models were de-tuned to 44BHP but are still good for 100 MPH (just)  I also agree that you should leave the airbox standard because the flow rate through the paper type element in your airbox is at least equal to K&N's.  You can then stick to using Suzuki jets in your carbs which are cheap and available in many sizes.  If you want to modify the exhaust.  Carry out "plug chops" to get the jetting spot on.  Clive


Re: Newly acquired 72 T500J In need of advice - 20-Dec-2000 - Hey thanks for the input guys.  I take it you guys don't think shaving the heads is a good idea.  Cool board.  Anyone interested in posting their bits for sale?  I need a left side cover and ignition switch.  The cover is specific to the J and the dealer told me the switch is also.  He said he could get it for $90.  Mark  P.S. one thing strange about the Titan everyone says stay stock unlike other marques.  Mark Walls, [email protected]


Shaving heads etc - 21-Dec-2000 - Shaving a bit off the head is an easy mod and it's one I did on my '76 GT380 triple.  I took 25 thou off and it made a big difference to pick up low-down pull etc without affecting the top end.  The reason I don't strongly recommend it in the T500 is you've got big pistons whizzing round in there and they already pull like trains even without mods.  I'd be tempted to leave it stock for now and maybe in a little while see how you feel.  The main reason for milling heads is that in factory spec Suzuki strokers were designed to run on anything from 85 octane gas upward.  So they're really low compression wide squish clearance etc.  In the UK the minimum octane we get is 95 so we have a little room for improvement.  If you plan to run it on 93 all the time then you could try taking maybe 20 thou off but a good polish of everything will help tremendously.  Good luck with it keep us posted on how you go.  Craig


Re: Newly acquired 72 T500J In need of advice - 21-Dec-2000 - Re: T500 L/H side covers.  They are all the same from the T500 111 onwards.  The difference in part number relates to colour.  The chrome badges are available from Sam Costanzo.  Re: Ignition switches.  The correct one for your bike is Pt No: 37110-15110 which is correct for the R and J but I am fairly certain any of the switches that incorporates the lighting switch will fit.  Clive


Re: Newly acquired 72 T500J In need of advice - 21-Dec-2000 - I've got many excellent shape parts from a 71 T500.  E-mail me what you need and I'll get back to you.  ([email protected])  As far as pipes there's a place in Austin Texas that will build you a set for about US$400.  Check back in the posts here their address and phone # is in one of them.  Or there's Swarbrick's of England but you better be prepared to take out a loan for a set of their chambers.  Crooks Suzuki in England sells rearsets I think their e-mail is back in one of the posts.  Eric at Sundial can sell you a set of modified baffles to mount in the stock pipes for about $100.  I think he runs them in his production class T500 racer.  I'm building a T500 racer planning to put a 76 GT500 front end on it (bolts right on).  This front end improves the handling over the stock T500 and carries a disc brake.  While you're at it get a set of tapered steering bearings.  I've seen pictures of a T500 with a CB450 front end on it too so anything's possible.  Hope this helps.  Kris Larrivee


Re: Newly acquired 72 T500J In need of advice - 22-Dec-2000 - Thanks for all the great info.  I definitely will be a regular here.  Happy holidays.  Mark Walls, [email protected]


Carb Stuff

20-Dec-2000 00:01:29, - John - As mentioned previously I'm going to the Buffalo King's Xmas Whing Ding tomorrow night.  His hot rod Buffalo has slide carbs on it...  I think 34 or 36 mm and chambers.  I think the port timing is still stock but will ask.  I know it goes like stink.  Those Kawi rods are being made under a commission by an H2 freak in Japan by the original factory that made them for the Big K.  He's offering them for sale at about US$125-$150 per rod/bearing/pin kit if I remember correctly.  I don't THINK there is anything similar for the Buffalo but IF there is it will be from the Wasser Buffel Club in Germany.  They have a list of parts on their website.  If you don't have the URL post back on this thread and I will get it for you.  H2RICK


Sorry john looks like I do have some buffalo pistons - 18-Dec-2000 - let me sort every thing out with the other two fellows that wanted pistons.  Justin


Thanks Muzza - 18-Dec-2000 17:48:16, - Justin


T500 Carbs

18-Dec-2000 - Preparing my T500(L) for the road with ports modded and chambers to give about 55/60 BHP at the flywheel.  Question is: What size carbs do I use?  I currently have 34mm Mikuniís but they seem a bit big for my state of tune.  I plan to use K&Ns and I would think that 32mm carbs would give better economy with better bottom end or would I lose too much top end power with the VM32s.  Any advice welcome.  Regards Phil C - UK, [email protected]


Re: T500 Carbs - 18-Dec-2000 - 34mm carbs are just right.  Don't strangle your porting with 32s.  The 34s are normally so much lighter as well if they are racing Mikunis.  Muzza


Re: T500 Carbs - 18-Dec-2000 - Thanks Muzza!  Any ideas on jet sizes to kick off with - I have not got a clue.  I have seen that the old TR500 used 240 with 34mm carbs but where do I start?  Phil C - UK




Stupid idea....

18-Dec-2000 - Anyone ever thought about putting EFI on your buff?  Take an EFI system off of a new snowmobile and modify it any thoughts?  Is it possible?  I know new snowmobile triples are EFI maybe even get the pipes?  Just a thought.  McAdam Majors, [email protected]


Not stupid at all! - 18-Dec-2000 - Like you say if snowmobiles have the full set up (pump accumulator injectors etc) it should be easy to find a rig that has the right flow characteristics then you'd just need to map the management computer to the bike. Rick Brett Kawa triple guru in the UK has built a supercharged H1 with fuel injection -- see more on his page at, Craig


Re: Stupid idea.... - 18-Dec-2000 - Great idea I didn't know the sleds had such.  I was going to ask if anyone had tried any alternative fuel systems on a buff.  I'm sure your idea will bear some fruit somewhere.  Guzzi John - John Pierson


Re: Stupid idea.... - 18-Dec-2000 - I think you'll find that only one manufacturer of snowmobiles is still using EFI on their sleds.  The majority of them have tried the EFI route and gone back to carburation rumour has it for reasons of reliability and longevity.  I know several snowmobilers that have changed their EFI machines to carburated.  I suppose that a well set up well maintained (i.e. making sure the battery is charged at all times) EFI system could work well and I'm sure someone will do it but I wonder if it's worth the trouble?  Is the carburated set-up really that bad?  Is there that much more performance to be gained with what seems a costly and complicated venture?  Ideas?  Kris Larrivee



19-Dec-2000 - I stumbled upon an interesting site.  Wiseco the piston co. also makes rods and I downloaded spec. tables for bikes sleds and jet skis.  Does anyone happen to have the dimensions for a buff rod on hand?  Otherwise I'll wait until I split the crank (if my 17.5 ton press will do it).  The reply about EFI was interesting.  Looking back I believe it was 1980 that Kawi did that EFI 1000.  Considering that only now FI has become common on bikes I can see why the sleds are taking the cheap and reliable route with good old carbs.  I'd still like to hear any info about alternative carbs on buffs or perhaps reed conversions as I've seen a site showing kits available for Kawi triples.  The after market rod thing has me thinking about a long rod buff similar to the long rod RDs I've seen mentioned.  I've been conjuring a set-up to do the crank pressing.  Has anyone seem any info on the web about crank pressing in general. I'd love to find something written about it as my own experience was gained by just winging it.  Another curious item I see in most buff reports is their ability to eat chains rather quickly.  Is that due to the inferior chains available 20+ years ago or just shoddy upkeep?  I read a reference to converting to 630 chain but is that old tech seeing that most sport bikes seem to have 530 now?  Enough day dreaming for now by.  Guzzi John - GJ


Another Stupid idea....

20-Dec-2000 - If we're dreaming stupid things why not throw in another....  How's about using cylinders from 250 dirt-bikes on a T500 crankcase and ride on with a water-cooled TR500?  I think the engine character of a T500 is somewhat comparable to the character of a dirt-bike plenty low end but not too high revving dirt-bikes use reed valves not rotary inlets and I think that the power of 2 250 engines should be plenty to manage on a T500.  Any thoughts?  Plezier Gijs, [email protected]


Re: alternative cylinders - 20-Dec-2000 - I've often wondered if someone somewhere had done as you suggest and grafted water-cooled barrels from dirt bikes or snowmobiles on to a twin or triple street bike.  With the huge variety of these engines produced in the last thirty years there must be some near bolt on combos out there!  Anyone know if there was any similarities between Yamaha motocrossers and TZs over the years?  Has anyone else seen that sled engine powered bike that I wrote about a few days back?  (of course I can't find it now-Old Heimers I guess).  Guzzi John - John Pierson


Re: alternative cylinders - 22-Dec-2000 - water cooling was done in the 1970's by Peter Inchley the conversion was called Hitac it used a single amal carb same stud pattern unlike the works water cooled engine and produced some awesome BHP fig's for the day.  Charlie Sandby rode it to many win's here in the UK ref. to this is on Muzza's site.  Oh yes they are like rocking horse shite to find, quite a few kits were made though.  Ian


John which pistons did you want

17-Dec-2000 - I take $80 + shipping for the standard set I have the oversize set sold and maybe the lefts to unless your interested in them too.  email me your address and I'll get them ready to ship.  Justin [email protected]


Re: John which pistons did you want - 17-Dec-2000 - I need pistons for my '75 GT750 do you have three that would suit my engine?  John Pierson


Re: John which pistons did you want - 18-Dec-2000 - I don't have any GT750 pistons but I'll keep an eye out for some.  Justin Howes, [email protected]


Re: John which pistons did you want - 18-Dec-2000 - John if the GT750 pistons are the same I may have the centre pistons would they be marked like the left and right pistons l-c-r I'll look and let you know tomorrow.  Justin


Re: John which pistons did you want - 18-Dec-2000 - GT750 took 2 lefts and 1 right didn't it?  That is why it is hard to find left hand pistons the shelves were cleared twice as fast... true!  Muzza


Re: John which pistons did you want - 22-Dec-2000 - The pistons are still available from Suzuki failing that try  They can supply pistons and rings etc.  Ian


The old gearbox question

17-Dec-2000 - If my Titan is a 73 that should mean that it is a K model and should have the gearbox mod from the factory or should I still tear it down to check it out?  Big D


Re: the old gearbox question - 19-Dec-2000 - You are exactly right.  In theory your 73 model K "should" have the gearbox modification direct from the factory.  However it seems that there is a possibility that it does not.  Some information sources state that all Titans from 73 on were built with the modification.  Others that I have seen indicate that 74 on is the safe zone.  So it seems to me to be the case that 73 models are questionable.  Some might actually have been put together early and not modified.  I do not know this from personal experience however so if someone wants to correct me please do.  This is an issue that obviously only faces 73 owners since 72's and 74's know exactly where they stand.  My advice would be not to split the case unless you really want to and just ride it while paying close attention to the messages coming from the gearbox.  If there is trouble you can split the case later.  The disadvantage to this method is obviously that if the modification is not innate there could possibly be some damage to the rest of the gearbox from metal fragmentation as the 4th and 5th cogs --- themselves (in M. Barnard's words).  Matt


Re: the old gearbox question - 20-Dec-2000 - Good advice there Matt.  My advice is a bit colourful obviously but at least it gets the message across.  Muzza (nee Murray Barnard).  Regards for the season guys.  Muzza


'Putor be live again'

17-Dec-2000 - My son in law did a nice job and my putor is better than ever.  Thanks to Clive for the watchfulness about pistons.  I'd forgotten the early 500s had holes like RDs.  Also thanks to H2 for making inquiries with his friend about crank repairs.  The skiing was good (didn't fall down once!).  My old carcass needs all the exercise it can get to somehow get down to a weight that even a stout Buffalo can carry.  If I had been this big 20-years back I would have looked like a hippo on a moped racing my RD.  Are there really so few buffalo fanatics in the world?  The strictly buff sites seem rather inert much of the time compared to others such as the 'Riders of Vision' site I frequent.  By the way it seems my buff is a late '75 with serial #64107 on engine.  Regarding the plate for cylinder elevation-does it require o-rings on each side or just plenty of silicone?  It would seem that two base gaskets would raise it a bit more perhaps I must adjust the deck height with thought given to the plate plus a second gasket.  I was surfing last night for crank rebuilding info and found nothing specific about pressed cranks.  I did find a fantastic looking bike on a shop site that seems to cater to snowmobile folks.  It had what may have been a twin rotax?  It appears to have a single rotary valve on the back of the case fed by two carbs.  The carbs face forward and the pipes go to the left-rear but are out of view.  The salibury drive was retained and the wheel is cog belt driven.  The caption says the builder is into hillclimbing in summer and sleds in winter.  He must have been snowed in for a while to have conjured up that beast.  It looks light and powerful.  This week I'll try to get the block milled and next week possibly dissect the crank.  By for now Guzzi John - GJ


Re: 'Putor be Live Again' - 17-Dec-2000 - Nice to have you back on line John.  Re: your crank if you scribe two lines about half an inch apart across the crank webs from left outer to right outer with a long straight edge and number the webs from 1 to 6 it gives a good reference for re-assembly.  You should aim for 1 thou or less for the run out.  Knife edges dial gauges and a hefty lead mallet are needed to true it up.  A local engineering firm should be able to true it for you.  Clive


Re: 'Putor be Live Again' - 17-Dec-2000 - Your bike is an M model.  The frame No should be about 5000 apart from the engine No.  Its the first of the 70 BHP models.  Set up properly I think you will be happy with its performance just by polishing the ports.  I'm not sure about the gasket and "O" ring set-up if you go for the spacer but I will find out ASP.  Re: the T500 pistons.  No word yet from Justin.  Clive


Re: 'Putor be Live Again' - 17-Dec-2000 - John - I have an AutoCAD file of the plate for the TR750 if you want to go overboard.... 90HP??  100HP??  You can feed that right into your CNC mill.  If I remember correctly it is intended to work with one stock base gasket on top and one on the bottom.  don't remember anything about O rings though.  I think the idea was to mill plates of varying thickness depending on track conditions race length and who else was in the starting grid against the TR's.  Let me know if you are interested.... and no lutefisk in payment eh??  H2RICK


Re: Thanks guys - 17-Dec-2000 - Yes Clive I have the big lead hammer but I don't know if I can get her apart with our press.  I know I can true the thing since I never had any trouble getting the Yammys within 0.001.  Rick my mill has no CNC but maybe my friend in the scientific apparatus shop has such.  I'll check it out.  By the way as a tit-bit of medieval history my Viking ancestors when laying siege to a castle wouldn't catapult dead bodies and the like into the place.  Instead they would fling buckets of lutefisk over the walls the threat of which was usually sufficient to bring surrender from the defenders.  No wonder we were so feared back then.  Now if only we hadn't carried off all those French and Irish girls we wouldn't be so civilised.  Oh well 20-20 hindsight and all that.  Off to bed Guzzi John - GJ


Thanks and clutch question

16-Dec-2000 - Hello. I replaced the shift shaft on my Titan it was easy to do although I did have to go out and buy an impact driver to get the right crankcase cover off. That's OK I suppose it's a good thing to have anyway. Thanks to H2RICK and Zooke for advice and thanks especially to Kris for providing the shift shaft and lever.  Before I put the gasket on and close the right cover up I have a question: how much should I tighten down the clutch plate hex screws the ones that hold the clutch springs in place?  I have a torque wrench but I can't find a torque listed in my Chilton's manual.  Thanks again things are coming along fine with my restoration.  Everything under the right cover is clean and shiny and looks factory new to me.  There is no wear on the gear teeth whatsoever.  Matt


Re: Thanks and Clutch Question - 17-Dec-2000 - Re: Your clutch bolts.  None of my manuals gives a torque figure for these bolts however the Haynes Manual says to "tighten each bolt until firmly seated".  It goes without saying to tighten in an even pattern around the pressure disc.  Clive


Re: Thanks and Clutch Question - 17-Dec-2000 - Please be easy on these bolts they are rather weak.  I have already broken a few of these bolts while using a normal spanner I use a screwdriver with 8 mm head for it now which works fine.  This way it is not possible to over tighten the bolts and they don't come loose.  Gijs Baron, [email protected]


Thanks - 19-Dec-2000 - Matt


GT550 Port timing

16-Dec-2000 - I have a Vintage 2 stroke motorcycle book that has a comparison of the port timing specs for the Kawasaki H1 and H1R.  It also contains some info about the T500 "Daytona" engine specs.  As usual it says nothing about performance mods. for the GT550.  Could someone please print the port timing figures for the stock GT550?  I'd just like to compare it to the H1 and H1R and see what makes it such a mild engine compared to these others.  H2RICK explained this to me before but if someone has the numbers I'd just like to see them side by side.  Todd T


Re: GT550 Port timing - 17-Dec-2000 - Todd - I don't think I've ever seen the actual port timing for the 550 in degrees anywhere before.  I will think about this and do a little research and see if I can find something.  We are talking seriously arcane info here.  Maybe Zooke has something to help you??  What say Zooke??  H2RICK


Re: GT550 Port timing - 17-Dec-2000 - I have never seen the port timing given in Degrees either.  Only in mm for the exhaust and intake.  Very few give transfers in mm either.  Zooke


Method to my madness - 17-Dec-2000 - Since the H1 and GT550 are close to the same bore and stroke and they are both piston ported two strokes I was wondering if making the port timing of the GT more like that of the H1 or H1R would yield similar results.  I understand these changes would have to include the correct chambers and carbs as well.  I just wondered how different these port timing numbers were.  I should be able to figure port open and close times with the head off and a degree wheel on the crankshaft shouldn't I?  Todd T


Re: Method to my madness - 17-Dec-2000 - That's exactly right about the degree wheel.  You CAN work it out from the distances for opening and closing figures from Suzuki if you're a math whiz.  I've never tried as trigonometry was NOT a favourite subject. LOLOL  For the degree wheel you really should pull one exhaust pipe and the corresponding carb so you can have absolutely accurate readings.  I've always thought that the closing/opening should be measured on the compression ring rather than the piston crown but I guess the crown is used as a more obvious indicator.  Let us know what you find.  There is a very good website about 2 stroke tuning theory & practice mainly for Sea-Doos but a 2 stroke is a 2 stroke.  Let me know if you want the URL.  H2RICK


Re: GT550 Port timing - 18-Dec-2000 - Todd - FWIW I got great results on my '76 380A by simply skimming the head by 20 thou and raising the exhaust port roof by 1mm but leaving the width standard.  This improved power and pull all through the range and believe me it really takes off at 5,500 rpm and pulls right to the redline.  It's also still as smooth and tractable as it ever was at the bottom end.  I think the problem with the Suzukiís was largely confined to gentle exhaust port profiles and very low compression / big squish gaps.  The inlet and transfer ports seem to be a pretty good size and the carbs are quite big for the cylinder size but they were designed to run on 85 octane gas which must mean low compression and a large squish gap.  There was a post a few weeks ago by Jay Mendoza about work he did on a 380 putting in supplemental exhaust ports and transfer boosters, which by all accounts had good effects.  Good luck with it!  Craig


Back to the GT Grenade! - 18-Dec-2000 18:29:14, - Thanks Rick and Craig for the input.  I have one motor apart on the work bench that is still stock.  No carbs or exhaust to get in the way so I'm going to try to get some timing numbers with the degree wheel.  In an effort to combine all I have read and been told by others concerning building a road race motor I have built the following monster (or mess...).  Shaved 0.020 from heads.  Also cut head into 3 individual heads to allow easier tear down.  Raised exhaust ports 2 mm.  Widened exhaust ports 2 mm.  Cut 1 mm off top of pistons at transfer port area.  Cut 1 mm off piston skirt at intake port.  I'm using K&N pod filters.  I'm starting with #107 main jets and #30 idle jets. I have chambers from AirCone with 95 mm dia. belly sections.  I think the tuned length is around 1100 mm.  I had the crank pressed apart and all new seals installed.  I plan to remove the throttle cable from the oil pump and run it at 1/2 setting with 40/1 mixture of Belray (si/7?).  For ignition I have a Neutronic ignition and new 8 mm Taylor wires on the stock coils.  I plan to run a plug one range colder than stock.  (BTW: Are gold palladiums still the plug of choice for racing?)  If anyone has actually read all this please tell me what you think.  I still have 2 motors to work with if I have destroyed this one so you can be honest if you think I've made a mess of things.  Anyone care to hear what I've done to race prep the rest of the bike?:)... I didn't think so.  Todd T


Re: (No subject) - 1-Jan-2001 -


One tiny advantage of that cold air...

15-Dec-2000 - that most of us are "enjoying" right now -- strokers do love to run in that cold weather.  Every one I've ever had has always felt crisp and ultra-responsive in this weather. Just a pity that we can't exploit it in corners without getting dumped on our a55es!  Craig


Re: One tiny advantage of that cold air... - 15-Dec-2000 - Yep first lap of a race is great so much oomph... always a mistake to warm the motor up or spend too much time on the start-line.  In the day of push starts the motor didn't get so hot!  Muzza


Re: One tiny advantage of that cold air... - 15-Dec-2000 - Hell it's 30+ C here & too hot to take corners!  (It's pissing down rain!!!!)  Have a great Xmas.  Paul. (Brisbane), [email protected]


"Hey Guzzi John" Where have you gone? - 13-Dec-2000 - Howís it going John?  We havenít heard from you lately.  Come on we need an update on the Buff!!  Have you got the parts I sent?  Regards Clive


Re: "The 'Putor is Dead!" - 15-Dec-2000 - Hi Clive I got the shaft.  Thanks much I must find a proper bit of Minnesota memorabilia to send in return.  My 'putor's motherboard went tits up 10 days ago so I have to use one here at the 'U' on company time(don't tell anyone).  My son in law is fixing it being as he built it in the first place.  The shaft you sent looks great.  Mine was badly rusted all the way to the bearing.  Regarding the numbers you sent me I've got to print them out and then try the various dealers who advertise low prices for people with part nos.  I sent Paul Miller an e-mail but the machine died soon after so I don't know if he replied.  I brought in the upper case today and gave it a good bath.  Your recommendation about raising the barrel is one I've seen mentioned before and seems to make good sense.  Our tinners can cut me a piece of 1/8" aluminium and I can easily make the plate.  I just have to see what kind of tooling we have on hand for our milling machine so as to trim the block.  Getting the deck height proper will be a bit of a challenge but that's what makes it fun right?  As for piston and ring sizes I believe the bores are standard right now and the ridge is very slight.  In case I decide to bore it maybe you can give me nos. for standard and first over.  I took Monday off with the idea of getting out for a bit of X-country skiing but I had the sniffles instead and also the temps were far below 0 F.  Tomorrow looks chancy for skiing as there's an "Alberta Clipper" coming in.  Hopefully it will hold off until afternoon so I can get out and get some badly needed exercise (I resemble a water buffalo myself these days).  I'm thinking of trying our shop press and see if I can take my crank apart thereby saving a few bucks.  If Santa thought I was a good boy this past year I could hope for pipes crank and trick ignition under the tree.  Unfortunately I don't think his suppliers have the stuff either.  If only there was a way to sleeve the rod's small end I'd be on my way but that's another pipe dream.  I'll get to my machinist buddy over the holiday to find out what he can do for my crank.  Hopefully my son in law will have the 'putor fixed this weekend and if so I'll get back to you then.  Thanks again Guzzi John


Hey John... watch that "Alberta Clipper" stuff eh??? - 16-Dec-2000 - I know you American folks like to blame us Canucks for your cold weather and storms BUT the so-called "Clipper" ACTUALLY originates in Oregon/Washington State if you consult your local meteorologist.  I don't know WHY you snow-belt state people insist on blaming us poor freezing Canucks for a problem that's strictly US in origin. LOLOLOLOL  Good luck with your projects.  H2RICK


Re: Hey that "Alberta Clipper" stuff eh??? - 16-Dec-2000 - You lie oh frost breath.  Dem clippers come right across the prairies from the Yukon.  I just came back from the season's first attempt at x-country skiing and I didn't have a coronary!  I got out early as did a lot of others to avoid the building storm.  When I came inside I could see the tops of her masts on the horizon in the general direction of Winnipeg.  I'm going to follow Clive's advice and do the barrel cut and raise as I have access to a mill at work.  I'm also going to see if our shop's press is big enough to split my crank. Unfortunately the 75 ton unit I used years ago to build my Yammy cranks is long gone.  The more I handle the buff parts the more enthused I get.  I just e-mailed a guy about pistons and with luck I'll find the crank bits I need somewhere.  I really enjoyed the pictures someone put on of the buff with the Yammy mono grafted to it.  That kind of stuff gets me thinking about the '83 GS in the shed but that's a far bigger chunk than just the motor work.  (maybe next winter)  By the way where exactly are you?  I'd like to train my satellite on you and drop off a load of lutefisk to pay you back for the clippers!  By the way in this area LOL stands for the Land of Lakes division of the SCCA (car racers).  Their track crew was and still is the backbone of the Central Road-racing Assn's corner crews at BIR.  They're world famous (at least to a few) for their ribald campfire songs.  They gave a printed copy of this (music?) to a French journalist who was in attendance at one of the WSB races held at BIR in the early 80s.  Mayhap those songs are being sung at racetracks world-wide.  By for now.  Guzzi John P.S. Is Muzza related to Ron Muzzy? - GJ


Nix on the lutefisk..... - 17-Dec-2000 - My wife's mom is Swedish so I know all about their weird dietary preferences especially at Yuleta (spelling??).  All the Swedes get together at the church on Xmas eve and eat all that weird stuff.  My nose/taste buds can't handle it so I take a pass on that evening ceremony.  I live in Calgary now but "escaped" from Manitoba in 1968 and haven't looked back.  Also my paternal grandma was from Minnesota originally and came to Manitoba in a wagon in about 1895 as a young girl.  With Muzza anything is possible... but I doubt that Ron Muzzy idea.  They're "worlds" apart.... or oceans at least.  Good luck with the x-country skiing and the Buffalo crank speaking of which the Water Buffalo King of Alberta is having his annual Xmas party in his garage next Wed night so will ask him about bushing the small ends on  rods.  H2RICK


T500 Carb Stubs

12-Dec-2000 - Any one got any T500 black rubber inlet carb flanges to sell?  I need them to mount my Mikuni VM34s onto the engine.  Just discovered that one of mine is split.  I have not tried Suzuki but I am guessing that they are no longer available.  Regards - Phil C -UK, [email protected]


Re: T500 Carb Stubs... (Yes they are still available from Suzuki) - 12-Dec-2000 - Zooke


Re: T500 Carb Stubs... (Yes they are still available from Suzuki) - 14-Dec-2000 - Thanks Zooke.  Phil C


Re: T500 Carb Stubs - 16-Dec-2000 - John Ritter at Pro Flo also has a large selection of manifolds that are Mikuni pieces I think and may be cheaper than Suzuki., Steve Izzo, [email protected]


H2RICK...You snowed in??? Haven't heard from you. - 12-Dec-2000 - Zooke [email protected]


Zooke... yes snowed in & frozen solid.. - 12-Dec-2000 - as well as house full of relatives for the weekend and company Xmas party last Friday. Sunday night/Monday morning overnight low was about -32 C or -15 F.... damn cold for December in Calgary.... record low temps all over southern Alberta... supposed to be cold all this week.  We got our first real snow starting last Wed night.  Bummer. RIDING SEASON HAS FINALLY ENDED!!  I'll have a look at the 550 stuff to see if it's usable.  I think you are right about the difference in axles though... 550 is probably longer than 380.  Busy night tonight so you will probably not hear from me until Thursday as Wed is fix-it night at Al's garage.  He's got a nice set-up and a GREAT furnace... what's not to like??  LOLOLOL  H2RICK


Re: Zooke... yes snowed in & frozen solid.. - 12-Dec-2000 - I think perhaps our counterparts in the more southerly reaches of the continent fail to grasp the concept of "a great furnace" as well as we do.  I had to chuckle as I'm now working on my T500 race bike project in my garage with only a propane heater to provide warmth.  If I don't get killed on the racetrack they'll probably find me an asphyxiated Popsicle with a 10mm Craftsman in my hand.  Riding season has been over here in extreme Northern New York for some time.  But this means a different riding season is about to begin SNOWMOBILE!  I find riding these sleds helps me get my fix for two stroke smoke through the winter.  I used to suffer terrible withdrawal after a month of not riding my 76 KH400 or 90 RM250 but a triple cylinder 750cc Polaris snowsled was just what the doctor ordered.  Nearly as peaky as an H1 and with all the acceleration. I recommend it to anyone finding the roads a little too icy for the bike this time of year.  LOLOL!  Kris Larrivee


Re: Zooke... yes snowed in & frozen solid. and cooked in Aussie. - 14-Dec-2000 - Riding season is about over it must've been 40 degrees C in the shade here today will someone please invent an air conditioner for a bike - I almost died.  My helmet melted into the shape of my head and it is not a pretty sight windburn has left my face as red as a cooked lobster (we call it crayfish here my boots melted to the tar and I lost 13 kilos sweating most of it running down my back under my jacket.  Bring on winter!  Muzza


OK Muzza we get the point... - 14-Dec-2000 - Craig (jealous pom)


Alloy Gas tanks

12-Dec-2000 04:32:19, - Hi - I have been looking for alloy gas tanks to build a production race replica of my T500 and found this company in UK that seems to have a little of everything.  Hopefully this will help someone searching for e.g. a new gas tank. You find them  By the way has anyone experiences in dealing with this company?  Good... bad or just OK?  Stefan


Titan crank bearings

11-Dec-2000 - Anybody know of a source other than Suzuki?  I've got a noisy outside bearing and would like to replace both outers while the crank is out.  Any help??  Thanks Steve Izzo, [email protected]


Re: Titan crank bearings - 12-Dec-2000 - Try Sam Costanzo at  Titan crank bearings were discontinued by Suzuki about 5 years ago.  Sam had them in stock earlier this year but they were not cheap aprox US$75 each if my memory serves me correct.  Clive


Re: Titan crank bearings - 13-Dec-2000 - Steve Izzo - Crook's Suzuki in the U.K. sell a bearing in an alloy housing to fit it is a good replacement for the original and reasonably priced around £50.00 UK pounds try emailing them for price at -, Ian


Re: Titan crank bearings - 16-Dec-2000 - Thanks for the leads guys.  Steve Izzo


Suzuki TR500 XR05 1969/70 swing arm

11-Dec-2000 - Wanted genuine or true replica swinging arm for my TR500 or info on where or who can make one.  Also wanted TR500 petrol tap or early RG500(same) steering damper, rear fender.  Any other parts for TR250 or TR500 considered.  David Evans, [email protected]


Buff parts

11-Dec-2000 - ORDERING BUFF PARTS: Suzuki have standardised their Buff parts on the A/B models.  Whilst many part numbers have changed if you use a K-B parts book and order from the A model onwards parts you should have little problem.  IF ITS AVAILABLE.  So come on guys its time to put those older parts books into retirement!!  The only exception to the rule is the J model.  If you have a genuine J only parts book keep on using it.  Many part numbers in that book were never superseded and hence are still valid.  Still got a problem, post a part number and description and I will get you the latest part number.  Clive


Guzzi John Muzza & LOLOL.... - 10-Dec-2000 - John - I'm originally from Winnipeg but that was in another life.  I've lived in Calgary since '68 which is far better riding country for ALL types of bikes.  Yes I understand that there is still racing at Gimli.  No I never made it to Brainerd but I understand that they have some great racing there.  Muzza is definitely from Oz and rumour has it that he's only seen snow on TV and that's when he loses the signal.  LOLOL And no... I won't EVER be sending any guys "Lots Of Love".  In fact that phrase sounds vaguely "Hollywood" so is DEFINITELY not in my vocabulary.  LOLOL.  H2RICK


Re: Guzzi John Muzza & LOLOL.... - 12-Dec-2000 - Hey I've seen snow I may be Ausie but I'm not stupid... that's that stuff that's on ice creams ain't it!  Muzza


Muzza: what a struggle but.... - 9-Dec-2000 - I finally got to Cobra Racing.  I went through 5 search engines before WebCrawler finally came through for me.  I've used it in the past on hard-to-find sites and subjects and it usually comes through.  Maybe I should learn from my errors and deep-six AltaVista and stick with WebCrawler only??  LOLOL  There are some very zoomy Titans on that site.  They all look like they are VERY well put together and finished.  Thanks again for the tip.  H2RICK


Re: Muzza: what a struggle but.... - 9-Dec-2000 - Not my site so what can I do... hopefully my page works OK though I have a link to Cobra Racing on the T500 Fans site at....  On Cobra Racing's site they have a picture of the Dietermann water-cooled.  I have quite a few pictures of that machine and some info and will be putting it up on my site one day!  How's the weather... it was 35 degrees C here yesterday again looks like that again today.  Time for a beer!  Muzza


Weather & beer... - 10-Dec-2000 - Full Calgary Weather Report.  The weather bites.... started snowing Friday afternoon and didn't quit until about mid morning today (Sat).  Temps dropped down for a big fat high today of about -10 C.  Will go down tonight to about -20 C or 0 F.  Thank heaven we live in a semi-arid desert because of the rain shadow effect of the Rockies & Selkirks (mountains).  We only get about 1/10th of the precip (rain or snow) that the west slopes of those mountain ranges get.  Places like Revelstoke a small city on the west side of the Selkirks get something like 100 feet of snow per winter.  Those people all have high vee shaped tin roofs on their houses and don't stop shovelling from mid October until late April.  Re: beer. I had enough Coronas at my company Xmas party last night to last for awhile.  I agree that beer in a pub on a winter night is not NEARLY as good as on your deck in +35 C sunshine.  You lucky devil.  One of our guys at work just left last night for Adelaide for about 2 weeks.  Sometimes I think I should have transferred over to the field tech side from the head office side.  LOLOLOLOL  H2RICK


Re: Weather & beer... - 10-Dec-2000 - you guy's talking about the weather?  Think about us poor guy's here in the UK.  Not stopped bloody raining for over three months what with flooding on a mass scale this little island could be sinking if it carries on bubbles coming up for air.  Ian


Re: Weather & beer... - 10-Dec-2000 - Does the T500 engine make a good outboard motor Ian?  How about a couple of pontoons mounted on each side of the bike and a very large paddle tire?  LOLOL  Kris Larrivee


50cc Gaucho

9-Dec-2000 - Want 50cc Suzuki rotary valve engine or complete bike.  John Ritter, [email protected]



9-Dec-2000 - 72 GT380 axle stops axle and nut chain adjusters.  Zooke


Zooke... have you gone over to the "dark" side and got involved in Triples?? - 10-Dec-2000 - LOLOLOLOL.  Just kidding.  I think the Water Buffalo King may have a basket 380 somewhere in his collection.  Also: will 550 parts work??  If so I've got some of those.  Let me know.  H2RICK


Re: Zooke... have you gone over to the "dark" side and got involved in Triples?? - 10-Dec-2000 - H2RICK... I actually started out with Triples. had a 76 GT750 with chambers triple disc brakes mag wheels Bassani pipes 34mm Mikunis light porting BMW R90S fairing a few more things.  It is what got me started in Vintage Racing.  Though my first race bike was a 76 KH400.  I need the GT380 stuff for my next T500 racer.  Using a 72 GT380 swingarm in my RD/T modified frame.  Minor work and it goes right in.  I'll send you some jpgs of it tonight if you'd like to see.  I am also making a special T500 for a guy in FL that has triple disc brakes as well but uses a GS550 rear swing arm modified to the T500 pivot shaft.  Worked out great.  I'll see in my parts books if the parts interchange.  Suzuki is good about that.  Zooke


Re: H2RICK... - 10-Dec-2000 - The chain adjusters and chain adjuster supports are the same but the axle number is different.  I suspect the axle is slightly longer. $$$?  Zooke


T500 Carb Intake

9-Dec-2000 - Can anyone tell me what carb inlets to use on my T500L?  I have both metal stubs which extend the inlet tract length or the rubber mouldings that look shorter.  Which are best?  I am re-building the bike (re-bore etc) and will using Mikuni VM34s.  The engine has been ported by an expert to give about 55/60 BHP at the crank and expansion pipes from Swarbrick in the UK are going to be fitted.  Phil C - - UK, [email protected]


Re: T500 Carb Intake - 9-Dec-2000 - Phil - Use the early T500 intake.  Clean the aluminium centre piece away to near the sleeve.  And finally match the intakes to the cylinder and the carbs.  Zooke


Re: T500 Carb Intake - 9-Dec-2000 - Zooke - Thanks for coming back but - Sorry to appear so thick but which is the early one?  The cast aluminium stub or the moulded black inlet?  Can anyone tell me the reason why one may be better than the other?  Phil C - UK, [email protected]


Re: T500 Carb Intake - 9-Dec-2000 - The moulded rubber you want to use.  The aluminium intake section was used on the de-tuned T/GT series.  Zooke


Re: T500 Carb Intake - 9-Dec-2000 - Zooke is right use the early shorter moulded intake.  You may have to tidy up around the intake to make sure it is a smooth flow. Suzuki de-tuned the motors with the longer intake.  This is a two stroke albeit a primitive one long inlets are not the go.  All the best.  Muzza


Re: T500 Carb Intake - 10-Dec-2000 - Thanks Guys - much appreciated! Phil C


Re: T500 Carb Intake - 16-Dec-2000 - Phil if you want some alloy down draught intakes for your T500 Rob Greenhill makes them at  Ian, [email protected]


Re: T500 Carb Intake - 20-Dec-2000 - Hey Ian - Thanks mate - I did not know of this site.  Thought I had been on every one.  Great bit of information - many thanks! Phil C




Are the gearbox internals the same on a T and GT500?

9-Dec-2000 - Kris L.


Re: Are the gearbox internals the same on a T and GT500? - 9-Dec-2000 - Yes except for the clutch basket.  It has less fingers and different friction plates.  Zooke


Cables with Clip-ons

8-Dec-2000 - Hey you guys racing T500s out there when going with clip-ons have you had to fit shorter cables (i.e. clutch throttle)?  If so where can I get some?  Thanks.  Kris Larrivee


Re: Cables with Clip-ons - 8-Dec-2000 - Kris - I use the stock cables with no problems on the Faired GP bike with clip-ons and the Historic Production bike with clubmans.  Zooke


Re: Cables with Clip-ons - 8-Dec-2000 - Thanks Zooke.  I know in the past when I've gone with clip-ons or clubmans on other bikes it's a pain with the stock cables as they are so long and tend to bind if you don't get them set up just right.  That's one less thing to worry about.  I should have the welded braced frame back next week then out to the painter and then at least I'll have a platform to begin building on.  Any leads on a 250/350 swingarm?  Did you want me to mail you some pictures of those parts?  I hadn't heard back so I wasn't sure.  Thanks.  Kris Larrivee


Re: Cables with Clip-ons - 8-Dec-2000 - I have a T250 swingarm.  And yes send the pictures.  I will e-mail my address.  Zooke


Re: Cables with Clip-ons - 10-Dec-2000  - Basically no if using rear set footrest then you would need to shorten the rear cable.  Ian


Re: Cables with Clip-ons - 10-Dec-2000 - Forgot about that rear cable.  From what I've heard from other racers the rear brake on this bike is essentially useless anyways.  Besides this is racing who needs to stop anyways right? LOLOL  Kris Larrivee


Re: Cables with Clip-ons - 10-Dec-2000 - I still use the stock rear cable.  I just mount it differently.  Zooke


"Hey Clive"

8-Dec-2000 - I've had no luck in getting replies to parts inquiries with several sources here.  Could you give me the numbers for Piston-rod assembly replacement.  I've got two bad small ends and one loose piston so I need numbers for what is usually called a rod kit and a piston kit or the individual bits if kits aren't available.  The only reply I've had has been from a fellow on the east coast who has a crank with one bad rod he wants to trade for a GS450 gas tank.  Even if I had such an item a used crank in the bush isn't too promising.  Oh well I've got the head and barrel resurfaced and am looking to the ports over the Xmas break.  I've got to reread all the port info in my library to see if I should go beyond just a bit of matching and cleanup.  Do you have any thoughts in this regard?  My best resource for such info was a dear friend and fellow racer who ran a buffalo for many years.  Unfortunately we lost him to a racing accident ten years ago.  Thank you Guzzi John - John Pierson, [email protected]


Re: "Hey Clive" - 9-Dec-2000 21:46:23, - Hi John - I will get you all the part No's by Monday 11 Dec.  Any idea on piston sizes or if you need crankpins etc?  Tuning to Stage 1 is best done using an under barrel spacer (3mm) shave 3mm from the top of the barrel and polish the ports.  This is a good compromise between performance and reliability.  Spacers available here in UK cost is about US$20.  All for now.  Clive


Drum brake GT550 GT750 fork question

7-Dec-2000 - I recall reading once that the GT750 forks were longer than those used on the GT550.  However I don't know if that referred to all forks (drum and disk) or just the disk models.  I doubt that Suzuki built a separate set of forks for the single year production GT550 and GT750 models with the 4ls drum front end.  I have a set that was supposed to be a GT550 front end.  I just want to know if the GT750 front end was longer in '72.  Stephen, [email protected]


Re: Drum brake GT550 GT750 fork question - 7-Dec-2000 - Just remember there are no Drum questions.


Re: Drum brake GT550 GT750 fork question - 7-Dec-2000 - The tubes were shorter on the 72 drum braked GT550 as were the later years.  I have GT750 lowers and will just get GT550 tubes and springs from Forking By Frank for them.  Zooke


Thanks Eric - 8-Dec-2000 - Stephen


Oil supply on a rebuilt engine

7-Dec-2000 - Hi - I just rebuilt a GT380 motor. I  put it together last week and was wondering how to get the oil down through the lines.  Any ideas?  Thanks.  Jose [email protected]


Re: oil supply on a rebuilt engine - 7-Dec-2000 - Hi Jose.  First have you replaced all the oil line banjo bolt washers and the small O rings in the oil pump manifold (plastic bit that oil pump bolts over).  If not then do it.  Remove oil pump and prime your oil lines with 2T oil from a hand pump oil can until the lines are full and the oil is level or just above the O rings on the oil manifold.  (use a different colour 2T oil in the lines if possible)  Replace oil pump and ready the bike to run.  Do not forget to bleed the oil pump itself.  Start the motor and set it run at 2000 rpm hold the oil pump lever fully open to expel any remaining air.  NOTE: 3 oil lines will pump faster than the other 3.  This is normal because the cylinder to bearing lubrication is at a ratio of 7 to 1 in favour of the cylinders.  NOTE: If large air bubbles form in the oil pipes air is leaking into the system and the fault must be rectified.  NOTE: Do not park your 380 on its side stand for lengthy periods because the left crank chamber is prone to filling with fuel causing an hydraulic lock which can inflict heavy damage on the engine.  Clive


Re: oil supply on a rebuilt engine - 8-Dec-2000 - when I rebuilt my 380 engine I started it on a 2-stroke mix until the oil lines were full.  If you used enough oil on the bearings and the cylinders during the rebuilding then there should be enough to run it long enough to bleed the oil lines.  Hope this is of some help  Dave


GT750 crank

6-Dec-2000 - Need parts to refresh my buff.  Crank or rod kits & seals piston kits or the parts therein gasket set. I'd trade my nice '72 Titan for the stuff.  Guzzi John - John Pierson, [email protected]



6-Dec-2000 - - Zooke [email protected]


GS750 Front end

6-Dec-2000 - Ian's post from a few days ago has me wondering.  Would a stock front end from a 1980 GS750; forks headset rotors callipers etc., be a major upgrade for my GT550 race project?  I had a GT750 front end on it and I didn't think it was much better than the single disk and forks from the GT550.  I didn't have it on the track I just used the parts on my "test mule" on the on our Sunday morning rides.  Since then I've drilled the rotors and I had planned on trying to find springs or using spacers in the forks.  I can get this GS stuff for $100.00 would this be a good idea?  Todd T


Re: GS 750 Front end - 6-Dec-2000 - Todd if the GS750 uses 35mm stanchions they will fit the stock clamps if they are longer you will have to drop them in the clamps the disc's/hub etc are the same what the original question was will the GS stanchions fit the GT alloy sliders as it will cost over £200.00 from Suzuki to replace and the breakers donít seem to have any used ones but they do have GS obviously the cheapest option so does anyone know?  IAN


Re: GS 750 Front end - 6-Dec-2000 - I don't know either.  I will after I receive my GS front end I guess.  Are the outer lower fork tubes what you need?  I'll sell you my GT750 front end if you want it.  I can bead blast or polish the sliders if you want.  Todd T


Re: GS 750 Front end - 7-Dec-2000 - Todd I have GT750 front end but with a bent stanchion and knackerd chrome the sliders are OK  the breakers donít seem to have the GT750 stanchions but do have GS750/850/1000 thanks anyway.  Ian


Re: GS 750 Front end - 6-Dec-2000 - Todd T - If I am not mistaken the 80 GS750 has a leading axle.  Axle in front of the tubes and not below. This will drastically change the rake and trail of your GT550.  It will probably not handle like you'd wish.  Even though it is valved better.  It also uses a 19" front wheel.  Zooke


Re: GS 750 Front end - 7-Dec-2000 - Zooke - In the UK only the custom had the leading axle on the GS range if my memory serves me right could be wrong.  Ian


Upon further review... - 7-Dec-2000 - I found out last night the 1980 GS 750 front end I was going to buy was a leading axle set-up.  I've been told by several people that is not the way to go.  (Thanks Zooke) MY NEW PLAN :) is to use my drilled out GT750 rotors GS 1000 EC callipers and then try to improve the fork internals.  The GS1000 callipers supposedly bolt up to the GT forks and offer improved braking.  Anyone have any ideas about improving the forks?  Todd T


Re: Upon further review... - 7-Dec-2000 - Todd - I would start out with the stock forks first with recommended oil.  Check that out and then play with different viscosity oils and pre-load spacers.  It is a matter of trial and error.  Each persons set-up is different.  Especially on the track.  Keep a notebook handy and record all you changes.  Zooke


Re: OOPS... not stock forks but the forks you are using with stock set-up - 7-Dec-2000 - Zooke


Re: OOPS... not stock forks but the forks you are using with stock set up - 7-Dec-2000 - Thanks Eric.  That sounds like good advice.  I get too impatient and want to fix everything all at once...  Todd T


Front Brake Calliper - 1972 GT550K

5-Dec-2000 - Can anyone help with my search for the correct calliper for my GT550K restoration and help me get her on the road?  I have later callipers but they do not work with the original metal lower brake pipe.  It seems that the threaded hole for the fastener is much deeper on the later model 550's confirmed when measuring the length of the threaded fitting on the end of my metal pipe against the length of a separate banjo bolt.  Bob, [email protected]


Re: Front Brake Calliper - 1972 GT550K - 5-Dec-2000 - Bob - That's a 1973 GT550K. Even though the build date is X/72 anything made after 6/72 is a 1973 model... just like Detroit introduces their new models in Sept and Oct of the preceding year.  Now: your question.  Yes you are right. The 'K' models use an 'oddball' calliper with the steel line.  That calliper was ALSO used on the GT250K, GT380K and the Buffalo.  If you can find one of those at your local wrecker's yard then you're in business.  If not post back on the board and I'll give you the part number and you can surf over to Vintage Parts or email/call Paul Miller.  Good luck.  H2RICK


I may have one to sell - 6-Dec-2000 - I have a GT750 front end with dual disks that I bought to put on my GT550.  It has those callipers and hoses with the metal tubing.  I don't think I'm going to use them.  I also have an extra calliper that has never been used.  (looks like new old stock)  It still has the rubber plug in the banjo bolt hole.  If you want it let me know.  Todd T


Re: I may have one to sell - 21-Dec-2000 - Todd - I would be very interested in buying the calliper you have spare.  Please contact with price for the calliper and cost of shipping please.  Regards Bob Harris, [email protected]


Suzukiís at vintage dayz in Australia

 5-Dec-2000 - Well after a bit of technical bolstering from H2RICK (ended up aggressively setting the float level lower and putting the needle on the last notch) I got the RM250B running pretty good at a big get together of pre 80s MotoX stuff on the weekend.  Fell off twice but that was part of the fun.  The dirt is a bit like that.  Think I'd better stick to the tarmac I've only just started MX-ing at 47-yrs of age LOL.  Previous weekend went to the historic road races saw heaps of TR500's (I guess twin 500 Suzukiís) some on alcohol.  There was one nice GT750 done up in race replica style also.  There was a racer TR500 advertised here with alloy wheels and chambers twin disk front end for Aust$1500 (that's bout 750 US) very tempted to make a streeter out of it.  Dunc


Re: Suzukiís at vintage dayz in Australia - 5-Dec-2000 - Dunc - Glad to hear the RM treated you well more or less.  Did it run OK??  47 is AWFUL ancient to be riding one of those babies.  LOLOL  Maybe a hack rig now??  Gotta protect that back and them old bones ya know.  LOLOLOL  H2RICK


I always say if you're walking on thin ice you may as well dance LOLOLOL - 6-Dec-2000 - Dunc


PART NUMBERS - 3-Dec-2000 - Up-to-date part numbers: I can obtain the latest part numbers for all available T500 and GT750 parts.  Don't let your dealer fob you off just because your part number is out of date!!  KEEP YOUR BUFFS and TITANS RUNNING.  Clive


Re: PART NUMBERS - 6-Dec-2000 - have you got them in a form that you can share?  Muzza


Re: PART NUMBERS - 7-Dec-2000 - Sorry no but if you e-mail your numbers to me I will find if they are current and update if necessary then mail the numbers back.  This is for T500/GT750 only at present.  Contact: [email protected] P.S. It may take a day or so for the reply.  Clive


T500 gas tank emblems (badges to you and me!)

3-Dec-2000 - HELP!  I need a pair of Tank Badges for my T500M part number 68111-15602.  NOS. preferred.  Willing to buy or swap for T500 or GT750 parts.  Clive


Re: T500 gas tank emblems (badges to you and me!) - 3-Dec-2000 - Try Nostalgia Suzuki in the U.K.  Email they have all sorts for Classic Japanese motorcycles.  Ian


T500 brake linings - adhesive?

3-Dec-2000 - My rear break linings have fallen off the shoes due to god only knows what combination of abuse and neglect.  They are still quite thick so I would like to reattach them.  Can anyone suggest an adhesive that will do the job?  They are just glued on aren't they?  Thanks!  Matt

Re: T500 brake linings - adhesive? - 3-Dec-2000 - Its NOT a DIY job Matt.  Rear shoes are cheap and available.  They are standard fitment on many other Suzukiís and not just the T500.  In the UK they retail for around £8 (US$11).  Clive


Thanks Clive - 4-Dec-2000 - Thanks for the info Clive.  I wish I had asked about this before I painstakingly cleaned my old brake shoes.  I went to my local dealer and he sold me some new ones for US$20.00 apiece.  That is a little pricey but what are ya gonna do?  Matt


Hey Matt...does that mean your brake linings are breaking??? LOLOLOL - 4-Dec-2000 - H2RICK


Re: Um... yeah... I meant to do a pun you see... - 4-Dec-2000 - Matt


That's your story & you're stickin' to it right?? LOLOLOL - 5-Dec-2000 - H2RICK


T/GT/TR500/750 Suzuki

3-Dec-2000 -  Very helpful site for Suzuki racing and engineering plus parts made to pattern drawing for above.  All in the U.K.


AltaVista & GoTo can't find that URL.... - 3-Dec-2000 - is there a misspelling or another way to get to them???  Please advise.  Thanks.  H2RICK


Re: T/GT/TR500/750 Suzuki - 3-Dec-2000 - H2RICK - The site is as follows: should be OK let me know if not working thanks


Still no joy with that URL... thanks anyway. - 5-Dec-2000 - H2RICK


Re: T/GT/TR500/750 Suzuki - address - 6-Dec-2000 - The address  I have a page on them here...on my website...  Muzza


Suzuki TR500 water-cooled spares wanted

3-Dec-2000 - I am racing a 1974 Suzuki TR500 (XR05) MK3 water-cooled bike in the forthcoming 2001 racing season in the U.K. & am desperate for spares can anyone help!!!!!!  Steve Lilliman, [email protected]


Re: Suzuki TR500 water-cooled Spares Wanted - 4-Dec-2000 - Sorry I have no spares to offer you but I would be interested to know which club you will be racing with so I can come along and cheer you on.  Ditch


Re: Suzuki TR500 water-cooled Spares Wanted - 4-Dec-2000 - Hello Steve - Trev (Rod) Here remember me?  Jeff has just rang me to see if I know anyone with any parts for the TR alas I don't.  Pointed him in the direction of this board but I can see your already here!  There are some really knowledgeable people on this board just a case of asking the right questions.  There is also Murray's site and the vintage racing site  Good to hear you've finally got your hands on a "proper" TR from the sounds of it its a pukka job I would like to have a look at it sometime.  Glad to hear you might be using it for its intended purpose giving it a good thrash!!  Good luck with the project keep us posted.  Rod  Trev, [email protected]


18" Front wheel for GT500 racer?

2-Dec-2000 - I want to put an 18" front wheel on my GT500 race bike.  I've got one off a GT250 but it's not wide enough and limits my tire choices.  Aside from spending a lot to have something laced up is there a junkyard wheel and disc that will work?  Any suggestions? Thanks.  Kris Larrivee


Re: 18" wheels and Yamaguchi San - 3-Dec-2000 - Hey not a bad idea using a GT250 disk braked wire wheel!  When you say it is not wide enough what size tyre do you want to fit?  The 500 Suzuki race bikes actually run better on narrow tyres that was what they were built for.  In those days the tyres were narrow.  The fat tyres you find now a days do not suit the 500 and don't help with steering.  Maybe a GT250 front wheel is actually a good cheap alternative to an expensive re-spoking to an alloy rim  What has this to do with Yamaguchi San.... well when he moved to Honda he suggested to Honda that they try fat tyres just like he had seen on an old British secret weapon the Sunbeam Model S7 De luxe Manxman racer.  Honda was a bit sceptical but did try a wide tyre on the NR500 four-stroke racer and at its debut at Silverston in 1979 in the first lap the machine went down in a heap and burst into flames.  Yamaguchi San was last seen slinking away towards the sidecar camp.  Muzza


Re: 18 - 3-Dec-2000 - According to Zooke's advice I should run a 110/80/18 front (recommends Avon) but the width of the 250 rim is narrower than 1.85 which will only allow me to run a 90/90/18 front tire.  Perhaps we should invoke the spirit of Yamaguchi-San for guidance in this matter?  Or maybe not.  Kris Larrivee


Re: Big V - 3-Dec-2000 - In my crazed youth (about 30) I fitted a 130 or maybe it was a 160/18 Nitto High Speed to the 2.15 rim of my Guzzi 750 Sport.  Needless to say I had the tallest side walls in town.  I certainly never got more than half of the side wall worn in.  To this day I lean toward fat tires (and it's not just because of my midrift either!)  My '83 Vision has BT45s in 110/18&120/18.  The one thing I did learn from all the years of tire experiments is that I prefer round profile over 'V as in TT100s.  I agree totally with the fact that the T500 and its contemporaries were designed with the optimum sizes available in their day (my Guzzi came with 3.25/18 & 3.50/18 tires).  To fit fat sticky tires just overloads the chassis and unless extensive frame and suspension mods are done (a modern chassis) they won't give the rewards hoped for.  A wonderful example of over-tyring is on the '83 GS750 I got a few months back. It came with 100/16 & 120/17 stock.  A previous owner had fitted 120/16 & 130/17 which resulted in the back edge of the plastic front fender being melted away by friction!  In most cases I believe that going up more than one size in cross section is a waste unless larger rims are fitted.  Even then the carefully designed balance of the machine may be overtaxed.  Enough of my palaver for now boys.  Guzzi John


Re: 18 - 4-Dec-2000 18:29:42, - Kris - I do have an 18 inch wheel that is 1.85 which will be better for that 90/90/18.  You could re-lace it with your spokes.  But then you could just get a good used 2.15 aluminium one.  The TR500 (XR05) that placed 2nd to a street modified T500 at Daytona in the Formula 500 race about 4 years ago used a 90/90/18 front and a 110/80/18 rear.  It was fast and I never saw it slide out.  The tires also looked in great shape after the race.  Had to watch that one instead of race.  Lost 4th gear on the west bank at about 100+ in practice.  When I got home and looked in the tranny all of 4th gear teeth were in the bottom of the tranny.  Centre main on the crank went and sucked out all the tranny oil.  It was fried.  Zooke

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