Suzuki T and GT Bulletin Board Archives
Page 5

71 Titan trans inspection,Friday 1-Dec-2000 21:17:44,64.12.103.22 writes,I previously found some very fine "glitter" in an oil change change after only 300 miles. After splitting the cases there is definitely some pitting in the 4th/5th trans gears although the whole trans is worn. Mostly there are angular scratches. They look alot rougher after lookin at em through the magnifier. I've got two other spare motors to inspect for better parts but my question is... If I do the case mod to increase oiling to 4th and 5th will the pitted gears stand a chance or am I wasting my time putting them back in the motor. I'm sure this depends on HOW pitted they are but as I've not seen others this is hard to answer accurately but I would call it moderate. Fifth is the worst some teeth worse than others. Whaddy think fellas?? Steve,Steve Izzo,[email protected]
Re: 71 Titan trans inspection,Friday 1-Dec-2000 22:50:43,209.197.132.30 writes,Steve:<BR><BR>Are these actual round style pits in the gear tooth faces ?? If so this is caused by micro-welds occurring between faces because of lube failure (no EP additive in the gear lube to protect faces). The case hardening on the faces is gone where the pitting has occurred leaving LESS good surface to carry the load. What amount of GOOD tooth surface is safe ?? For a race machine the answer is nothing less than 100%. For the normal street machine my best GUESS is about 80% BUT that gear will PROBABLY be noisier than you'd like IF you can hear it over the intake drone and exhaust noise. LOLOLOLOL<BR>If you are interested I can send my learned treatise on tranny lubes. Let me know. Good luck with your o/haul.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: 71 Titan trans inspection,Sunday 3-Dec-2000 00:03:51,205.188.193.188 writes,H2 there are many small scratches and some real pitting. I dont honestly think there's 80% unpitted surface on a couple of teeth. The rest are probably OK by that measure. Thanks for the feedback though it gave me a reference to measure the wear by. I'll split the other motor to check that trans this weekend and hope for the best. I've got three motors total sure hope I get one good bottom end out of the three. I'm gonna guess that these trans gears are hard to come by. Maybe Paul Miller will have em. thanks again Steve,Steve Izzo,[email protected]
Re: 71 Titan trans inspection,Monday 4-Dec-2000 17:32:22,216.111.5.126 writes,They are trash if pitted. Besides you've other motors from which to grab spares. I never go to the trouble of putting back any gear that's pitted as they have lost the case hardening and will rapidly wear you'll be tearing that engine down again soon if you re-use those gears. Be sure to replace them as a set the driven and drive gears. I was panning for gold every 300 miles or so myself when 2nd gear started to runble a bit under load that was the GT380's Achillies heel. A spare engine yielded up it's 2nd and 3rd gear sets and I never saw "color" in the oil again. Do it once do it right and you won't have to do it again. Charles Hiltons 1970 Charger T500 has 30K+ miles and all he ever did was to add 250cc extra oil to the tranny.,jmendoza,[email protected]



Help RM250B 1977 Carby jetting,Friday 1-Dec-2000 07:46:00,203.61.254.62 writes,I am in dire need of some jetting specs for a rM250b 1977. This seems as good a place as any to ask - slide cut away 1.5??,Dunc,
Re: Help RM250B 1977 Carby jetting,Friday 1-Dec-2000 22:38:55,209.197.132.30 writes,Dunc:<BR><BR>The PE250B with 36 mm carb has the following stuff:<BR><BR>Main: 260 (long hex jet if memory serves)<BR>Pilot: 40<BR>Cutaway: 2.5<BR>Needle 6DH3-2<BR>N jet: Q-0 (that's zero...not oh..in case you wondered)<BR><BR>For the RM I would probably start with a 290 main and go from there. Pilot should be same as PE. Cutaway MAY be the same because the reed valve SHOULD cause your 1/4 TO 1/2 mixture to be a little richer than an unreeded engine but you may want to have a 2.0 slide on hand just in case. I won't specualte on the needle/needle jet arrangement. Stock PE plug was an NGK B-8EV but that may be a little warm for full bore riding on an RM especially if your ambient temps are consistently over about +20 deg C (~70 deg F). You may want to run a B-9EV if it's warm outside and you're going to go ba!!s to the wall for hours on end.,H2RICK,
WARNING TO DUNC...UPDATED INFO....,Saturday 2-Dec-2000 12:33:34,209.197.132.30 writes,This stuff bothered my subconscious all night so I dragged out the interchange book this morning and here is some more stuff:<BR><BR>Main jet: sizes UP TO 350 are listed for the RM250A & B but you're a cautious guy<BR> and probably already knew that LOLOL<BR>Pilot: listed as a 50 for A & B<BR>Needle jet: no profile designation but Suzi part <BR> number is 09494-00178. Also fits an<BR> RM100B and an RM370B. Go figure.<BR>Needle: again no profile designation but Suzi<BR> part number is 13383-16510. Also fits an<BR> RM370A & B.<BR>Slide: no designation but part number is <BR> 13551-41112 and is PROBABLY a 1.5 cutaway<BR> which is what the RM250A and RM370A use.<BR><BR>All this info is taken from U.S. Suzuki's interchange book so MAY only apply to U.S. spec bikes. Your mileage MAY vary. Do not attempt these manoeuvres on public roads and highways. Professional driver on closed course was used for these sequences. LOLOLOLOL. That's the legalese that advertisements have tagged on them in the U.S. and Canada so the scum sucking ambulance chasing lawyers can't sue the car/bike companies if the sub-100 IQ car/bike owners kill themselves trying to emulate what they see on their TV screens. Darwin's Law still works !! LOLOLOLOL<BR>Annnnnnnnyway...good luck with your project.,H2RICK,
THanks H2R,Saturday 2-Dec-2000 16:44:26,203.61.254.62 writes,We are of on some serious riding today - a get together of hundreds of pre 80's dirt bikes -there was a swap meat yesterday where I picked up a cylinder barrel plus new wiseco piston for A$50. i'D JUST PAID $60 FOR NEW RINGS AFTER DISCOVERING AN END GAP OF 3MM WAS CAUSING MY LACK OF COMPRESSION. tHANKS FOR THE INFO DUDE.<BR>I'll check the main and maybe pilot.,Dunc,


FORK STANCHIONS,Thursday 30-Nov-2000 21:45:18,212.187.136.121 writes,Does anyone know if the GS range of fork stanchions fit the GT range ie GS1000/850/750 TO<BR>GT750 AS the sliders look very much the same.,IAN,
Re: FORK STANCHIONS,Friday 1-Dec-2000 05:48:44,198.142.92.179 writes,Yeah they are all 35mm aren't they?,Muzza,
Re: Re: FORK STANCHIONS,Saturday 2-Dec-2000 01:09:35,209.197.132.30 writes,Yep if I remember rightly my buddy the Water Buffalo King has a GS front end on his Black Beauty which started life as a 750J or K but now has GS front end with dual ventilated discs chambers big bore Mikuni round slides (for that 'period' look) etc etc. He says it makes a world of difference in the handling due to FAR better fork action etc etc. He's very pleased with the switchover even if it's somewhat sacreligious to true Buffalo phreaks. Get out your vernier mic and check both but Muzza is probably right.,H2RICK,
Re: FORK STANCHIONS,Sunday 3-Dec-2000 10:42:09,64.154.96.65 writes,Your question got me wondering about a GS 750 front end upgrade for my Gt 550. I found GS Resources on the web. They have listings of parts for sale. One of the guys with several ads on that page told me the 750 stuff is 35 mm but the GS 1000 stuff is 37 mm. ,Todd T.,
Re: Re: FORK STANCHIONS,Wednesday 6-Dec-2000 01:03:29,198.142.80.13 writes,I've run 38mm Cerianis on my T500 based racebike and they went great..much stiffer and more progressive. Get triple clamps and 37mm forks off a GS1000 if you can. I don't think the early calipers are a straight fit but some scutineers don't care/notice.,Muzza,
Re: Re: Re: FORK STANCHIONS,Thursday 7-Dec-2000 20:09:31,12.84.229.216 writes,Muzza <BR>Do all GS 1000 have the leading axle? Which years were you refering to in your post? Were you saying the early GT or GS calipers were not a straight fit. (which one?) If you spell this out for me I promise to perpetuate some unflattering stereotype of someone somewhere. ,Todd T,


Transfer port size on GT 550,Thursday 30-Nov-2000 17:52:40,12.84.229.247 writes,Hello everyone. Some info PLEASE. I have 3 GT 550 motors two are from 1974 models and I'm not sure about the third. One of the 74 motors is serial #GT550-42054. The one I don't know about is serial #GT550-70429. As far as I can tell the two 74s are identical but the intake/transfer port area in the upper engine case is much larger on the other engine. The transfer and intake ports in the cylinders look the same on all three engines. Why the difference in this one area? I have a service manual and a Clymers but neither mentions this. Are some years better than others? Are parts interchangable between the different years? Thanks for any help on this. ,Todd T.,
Come on Muzza H2Rick Zookie throw me a bone!!!!!,Friday 1-Dec-2000 08:46:37,12.84.229.15 writes,,Todd T.,
WOW...more weird GT550 trivia revealed !!,Saturday 2-Dec-2000 01:24:55,209.197.132.30 writes,Todd:<BR><BR>Where do you get the incentive to look for this stuff ?? LOLOLOL. Just kidding. <BR>This a totally new off-the-wall thing. The engine number SEEMS like an 'A' engine but will confirm tomorrow. I think the 'A's amd 'B's were different in a lot more ways than most people think but have NO hard evidence to back that up and have NOT had enough of them totally apart and laid out side by side to know for sure.<BR>I wonder what the big S was thinking of with larger transfers in the cases only ?? Was this some stillborn racing program with custom cylinders ?? Was it an attempt to give the stock engine a little more power BUT they got the hard word from the EPA....after they changed the case dies but BEFORE they changed the cylinder molds ??? Toooo strange !!!<BR>As a matter of curiosity do the 'L' case transfers look / measure smaller in area than the matching cylinder transfers ?? I know the earlier machines were reasonably thrifty on fuel<BR>(for a 2 stroke) whereas my 'A' sucks it down like an H2 Kawi. Of course that may have something to do with the horespi$$ they sell as gasoline these days too. LOLOLOLOLOL<BR>PS sorry for the late reply but I've been verrrrry busy at work this week and when I get home I'm totally whacked.,H2RICK,
I spend too much time in my Basement...I guess!,Saturday 2-Dec-2000 05:32:25,12.84.229.191 writes,H2RICK et al I noticed this difference when I tore down the "odd" engine and laid the upper case next to the other 74 motor in the basement. I was going to pick a set of cylinders and match the transfer ports and base gaskets to my best bottom end. It's a pretty big difference in size and shape between the 2 cases. All the cylinders I have match up pretty closely to the 74 engines port size and shape. The ports in the other case are nearly an inch wider than the cylinder ports. You mentioned that this might be an "A" motor. The guy I bought it from just said it was older than the bike it was in which was a 74.<BR><BR>Not that these bikes were known for performance but did some years run better than others? I know there was some changes made to the exhaust and carbs over the years but I thought the engines were all the same. Thanks for indulging my curiosity. I love these bikes and I know I have a lot to learn so I ask a lot of questions. <BR> ,Todd Taylor,
Re: The strange story of Yamaguchi san,Saturday 2-Dec-2000 07:23:48,198.142.75.164 writes,A little known fact was that production line engineer Nobatsu Yamaguchi san was sacked in late 73 for fiddling with engines whilst on the assembly in the late night shift. Still clasping his porting file he was escorted from the Suzuki factory premises a mad gleam in his eye and mouthing strange timing figures which no-one could understand. A quick quality control check by Suzuki did not reveal anything but some Suzuki riders still smile more than others.<BR>He was last seen working for Freddy Spencer in the early 80s fiddling away at Honda cylinders.,Muzza,
Re: Re: The strange story of Yamaguchi san,Saturday 2-Dec-2000 12:37:58,209.197.132.30 writes,Muzza: I am never sure with you whether or not you are trying some colossal leg pull on 'the boys'. LOLOLOLOL. Interesting side bar to the whole story IF TRUE.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: The strange story of Yamaguchi san,Saturday 2-Dec-2000 14:31:23,205.232.94.136 writes,We need more stories like that on this board. Any other good ones Muzza? I got quite a chuckle on that one and if it's true even better.,Kris Larrivee,
MORE GT550 TRIVIA STUFF,Saturday 2-Dec-2000 13:16:21,209.197.132.30 writes,Todd:<BR><BR>A little more reading of service bulletins and interchange books shows:<BR><BR>In beginning of March 1975 the factory changed the spark plug boot arrrangement on the 550 in the latter stages of 'M' model production. This was done from ENGINE (not frame) serial number<BR>60143. So that gives us a reference point for your engine number of 70429. I'm guessing but I'd say that yours is a mid/late 'A' engine or possibly an early 'B'.<BR>But wait....it gets better.<BR>The ORIGINAL 'J' engine cases used a press-in style of SRIS check valve which we all already knew. These cases had Suzi part number 11304-34801 and were discontinued at the model year changeover from 'J' to 'K' (probably about July 1972) at engine serial 32854. The new cases used the SCREW-IN style of SRIS valve and had part number 11300-34815. These cases were used through to the end of 'L' model production probably about June 1974. <BR>Now for some unknown reason the cases were changed AGAIN for 'M' model production and had part number 11300-34860. I would assume they used these cases for the entire 'M' production run.<BR>Then the cases were changed AGAIN for the start of 'A' model production with part number 11300-34861. These cases were used through to the sad and bitter end of big bore air cooled Suzi two strokes in (probably) May/June of 1977. I'm positive that these cases are the ones you have because of your high engine serial number.<BR>I will check later today for engine number and build date on my 'A' because it is all original and I know the engine has never been changed. That will give us another piece of the puzzle and hopefully allow me to make a reasonably educated guess as to the date of that high number engine of yours. Will let you know.<BR>Now aren't you sorry you asked ??? LOLOLOLOL<BR>Whoopee for me as this all means my 'A' probably has the bigger tranfer port cases. Should I pull the barrels and hog them out to match the case transfers ??? NOT !! I can hardly afford to keep gas in the old girl as it is. LOLOLOL. And that peanut sized tank means I'm usually looking for a gas pump after about 80-90 miles. With a 550 you sure get to meet a lot of gas station people. LOLOLOL.,H2RICK,
Mystery semi-revealed !!,Saturday 2-Dec-2000 20:29:59,209.197.132.30 writes,Todd:<BR><BR>My 'A' model engine number is 69571 and frame build date shows 2/76. I also went to my dealer for some stuff today and asked them and yes your number is definitely from an 'A'. So two sources confirm my supposition. The build quantities were around 9000 units annually for the 'M' 'A' and 'B' bikes so a little basic math gives that engine's build date somewhere in<BR>03/76 or 04/76. Now if Muzza's story is true....<BR>that will be the end of your mystery. Or not. LOLOLOLOL<BR>I did not get the number range for each year but I'm going to try to get hold of a Suzuki Model Recognition Guide like the dealer has. It has all that info in it. It's NLA from Suzi but I'm going to try to find it from one of these secondary market M/C book sellers anyway. Wish me luck.,H2RICK,
H2Rick was that a preemptive strike? ,Saturday 2-Dec-2000 21:00:03,12.84.229.40 writes,If you think giving me all that information at once is gonna stop me you're wrong mister. Although the "difference in sparkplug boot angles and composition of insulating materials between 72 and 76 models" WAS going to be my next area of concern...I'll think of something else to worry about just you wait.<BR><BR>Seriously thanks for the information. What was the advantage to this change? My original 74 engine ran stronger than this "A" model but then again I don't know how this one was treated since I just bought it for parts. Maybe that Yamaguchi San guy worked his magic on my 74 before he was let go! ,Todd T.,
Re: H2Rick was that a preemptive strike? ,Sunday 3-Dec-2000 16:00:21,209.197.132.30 writes,Todd:<BR><BR>Well you sound a little bit like myself...unexplained details like this make you want to get to the bottom of things. Anal retentive ?? Maybe but that's just me.<BR>Transfer port areas/alignments are not my strong points but the old adage hold true for them like a lot of things....bigger IS better. Obviously more fuel/air throughput = more power. If your transfer port area is the bottleneck in the whole<BR>induction/exhaust flow scheme then that's what you enlarge. It sure would be nice to talk to the engineers who designed/ordered the change in those cases.<BR>As to your next thoughts...bring'em on. You get ME thinking about things again after all these years and that's a GOOD THING. Brain cells NEED exercise especially mine. LOLOLOLOL,H2RICK,
Ah so! ,Monday 4-Dec-2000 17:51:31,216.111.5.126 writes,Most honorable of motors from Nippon make ah how you say ah ling-ding ding vely good yes? Thu-Sye san fixy up T500 for lound eye have low batelly watah. Thu-Sye Kelly add a watah chalge vely quickly; chop chop! Lun vely good no ploblem! Yankee lound eye vely happy say "domo-arigato Thu-Sye Kelly.",Thu-Sye Kelly,



"Boring Buffalos",Thursday 30-Nov-2000 12:13:05,160.94.79.39 writes, No they're not boring. I got the head off the barrel last evening with two big screwdrivers wd40 and a propane torch. I didn't scar up the mating surfaces much and saw that levering as close as possible to the affending stud prevented undue strain from being put upon the weaker sections of the head.(I'd never seen the inside of one before). There was some of that funny gray greasy goo atop the gasket? It's just like what I found inside the cluch lever cover. Those leaks carry stuff everywhere! The bores don't look too bad after running a glazebreaker through them. Are buffalo rings chrome? Mine are quite shiny and if chromed I don't think I'll change them unless the end gap is too wide. The ports look good except for the intake side which needs some relieving. I'll probably just polish the others a bit and call it good. The head domes are pitted abit like the piston crowns but not bad. There's been a lot of talk about the difference in jetting between the center and outer cylinders. At first glance I thought that the angled outer plugs recesses perhaps drop the compression enough to warrant the difference. That's clutching at straws though.(I'm good at that!) I found a beautiful adjustable break hone for the small end bores but it needs new stones so its off to NAPA for some. By for now. Guzzi John,John Pierson,[email protected]
Re: Re: Boring Buffalos,Thursday 30-Nov-2000 18:04:10,195.92.168.168 writes,Glad to see you have the head off at last. Ref the rings Rick is wrong. As supplied the ring outer face is coated with soft chrome to aid the running in process however he is right when he says the shiny surface you have is through wear. The chrome will be long gone.<BR>As for the main jets the size depends on the year of your Buffalo and the type of carbs it has. Early ones 71 to 73 use VM32 carbs later ones use BS40 carbs. (The L model is odd in that it uses BS40 carbs but with slightly different float bowls and jets)<BR>If you look on the underside of the float bowls (BS40) there is a letter stamped in. It will either be an I J K or L. The I and J relate to an L model only. I floatbowls are the outers and should be fitted with either (depending on market) 110 or 112.5 REVERSE flow main jets. The J goes on the centre with a 107.5 NORMAL main jet. K floatbowls are the outers on M to B models fitted with 110 REVERSE flow main jets and the L bowl is the middle fitted with a normal 107.5 main jet.<BR>Pilot jets are 47.5's exept for the M and A model which have 45.0's.<BR>The point to all this being: DO NOT mix up the float bowls and jets because your Buff will not run on all 3 cylinders if you get it wrong. I know because I was that person many years ago.<BR>Of course if your Buff is an early one all this info is of no use to you what so ever but it may get a few brain cells working overtime elsewhere!<BR> ,Clive,



'Jet Set',Thursday 30-Nov-2000 18:35:52,134.84.255.84 writes, Hi Clive My Buff is a silver '75 and I have a Clymer's and a Performance Portfolio that have a fair amount of specs. Do you know how far I can hone out the small ends and whether other sizes of rollers are made? Did you have any luck with the pump shaft search? I've been haveing crazy thoughts about tearing my titan apart to steal parts but that would be ruining a fun bike so that's out. Has anyone attempted to graft a sectioned Buff barrel on a Titan? Oops enough ramblings for tonight. Later. Guzzi John,jp,
Re: 'Jet Set',Friday 1-Dec-2000 16:56:59,195.92.168.168 writes,Hi John Your bike is an M and the color is Jewel Gray. I have a very useable waterpump shaft and bearing you can have. Just e-mail your address and I will send it. Do you want an overflow pipe as well if I can find one out?<BR>Please describe in more detail what the inside of your small end eyes lool like ie: is the surface pitted? Have you tried fitting a new wrist pin and small end bearing into the eye? Normally the bearing wears and not the eye. Did the motor run OK before the trany oil leak started?<BR>Basically what I am trying to say is if the eye is realy bad then you will have to replace the rods because both the big and little end eyes are hardened. Don't be fooled by the color of the rods (bronze) that is only a protective coat to stop the rod from combustion acid attack.<BR>If it ran OK before then accept the wear and rebuild it without new rods. Buffs tend to keep running when other 2t's would have died long ago.<BR>When you parted the Head from the Barrel the grey stuff could have been the compound Suzuki coat Buff head gaskets with and is perfectly normal to find it there.<BR>Looking forward to your reply Clive.,Clive,
Re: I'm in Minnesota,Friday 1-Dec-2000 18:00:40,134.84.254.215 writes, I tried to send my address in another message but perhaps you missed it because of my poor titles. I need the shaft but the tube isn't necessary as I can easily conjure one up out of HVAC stuff. Today was vacuum cleaner repair day. In between cleaners I managed to make a new stud for the block(the old one got slightly bent while coaxing the head off!)and I removed one of the corner bolt that was broken off. I was looking at a kawi page today and read info about afellow who makes reed valve kits for kawis. That would be nice on a Buff as would direct injection but those are dreams that will have to wait. I wonder what sort of injector oil flow one would need if there was no fuel thinning it out? About my rod bores-one is good one is soso and the third has quite a bit of pitting. This damage is from rust while sitting idle at some point. I brought home a nice adjustable brake cylinder hone and will attempt to clean up the bores. In the posts I tried to get to you and H2Rick I asked about the possible existance of oversized rolers and or pins. With the huge variety of roller equipted engines that have been produced I would think that there are a lot of similar sized bits out there. All I've found so far regarding rod-pin-roller clearance is the number .0018". That's fairly tight and the max tolerance was very small! Did you read of Gunnar's good fortune in finding a crank and pistons? Lucky Swede. Oh well I'm half Norsk and half Swensk so maybe my karma ain't too bad. I've got a saturday full of car wrenching(Yuck!)ahead. But they are family vehicles so it must be done. Anyway here's my address again-John L. Pierson-11925 Sumter Ave. No. Champlin Minnesota-55316. I'm going to dial my rods' side play this weekend and I'll let you know what I find. Aloha Guzzi John<BR><BR><BR>,JP ,[email protected]
Re: Re: I'm in Minnesota,Friday 1-Dec-2000 18:44:07,195.92.168.163 writes,Hi John Got your address this time. Will send parts on Monday.<BR>We are lucky here too. One of our club members re-builds cranks for $50 USD plus parts which is normally only a seal kit at $45 USD.<BR>Re: the rollers it may be possible to press slightly oversize rollers into an old cage. They come out easy enough.<BR>I would try some 600 grit wet-or-dry wrapped round a wrist pin untill its a good fit in the eye soak it in oil and dress the eye very lightly. You may find it looks a lot better with little effort.<BR>If it was realy bad the piston would show signs of wear on the front (thrust) face.<BR>PS. Do you watch the Vikings?,Clive,
Re: Re: Re: I'm in Minnesota,Friday 1-Dec-2000 19:08:03,195.92.168.165 writes,Nearly forgot! Your crank floats on the bottom end (opposite way to a Titan) because of this measuring play on the big end isn't as easy as the Clymer manual suggests.<BR>Suzuki UK issued a Tech note in 1974 detailing a simple method of determining the serviceability of the big ends. This was because every time an engine was stripped they were (needlessly) changing cranks under warranty!<BR>So to quote the Tech note "Centre each conrod in turn and apply twisting pressure by hand at the top of the rod. If there is little or no sideways movement detected the big end and bearing are to be presumed serviceable"<BR>In practice this works. I have a new crank in the loft. The rods on that slop about if you measure it the Clymer or Haynes way BUT they do not twist.,Clive,
Re:small ends,Friday 1-Dec-2000 21:47:52,128.101.250.14 writes, I had to go out and fool around in the garage before my friday bath. The hone I used worked wel but unfortunately the center rod (of course that ahd to be the worst!)has pitting plus a discernable ridge at one end. It just appears that the center cylinder endured too long a span of inactivity while having its piston in a bad position. Putting my best pin and roller into each rod shows the differences between all three. I'm going to keep my web eyes peeled this winter for cranks and pistons. I'm feeling a lot of good vibes just from massaging the parts so this machine deserves the best I can give it. I might have to sell something off in the spring to help finance the project but that's okay I'll have more garage space then. Its getting late I better go talk to the wide a bit so she knows I still remember I'm married. Good night JP,jp,
Re: Re:small ends,Saturday 2-Dec-2000 01:42:39,209.197.132.30 writes,John:<BR><BR>Clive sounds like he knows his stuff on this.<BR>Oversize is a relative term because as you know there are manufacturing tolerances in both the wrist pin and bearing. I'd advise cleaning up the small end with the 600 and 1200 grit until YOU are satisfied (but not going crazy huh ??) and then getting an assortment of 4 or 6 of the correct wrist pins and giving them all the vernier treatment. They WILL vary in OD and at this stage you have nothing to lose except about $30 in wrist pins some of which you can use anyway on the other cylinders. When I wrenched Suzukis this was common practice to make good<BR>fitting quiet top ends. Not so much of a problem on the Buffalo because of the water jackets but essential on ANY air cooled 2 strokes for 'customer satisfaction'. The small end bearings also vary and with selective mixing / matching you CAN find the right combination. I realize that we are discussing this 23 years after the last Buffalo rolled of the assmebly line and YOU just can't walk into the parts department like we used to but I'm showing that it CAN be done with a little work on your part. Besides it's a he!! of a lot easier than replacing that centre rod.<BR>LOLOLOLOL<BR>PS: give your wife an extra hug from 'the boys'.<BR>LOLOLOLOL<BR>,H2RICK,
Re: Re:small ends,Saturday 2-Dec-2000 02:50:16,195.92.168.167 writes,Sounds to me like its time to do the honourable thing and re-build the crank. If you do it should last for the rest of the bikes life.<BR>Try Paul Miller e-mail: [email protected] for your parts. Should be cheaper than your local dealer.<BR>Its even possible to pick up new cranks on your side of the pond which in the long run could be cheaper.<BR>Cheers for now Clive.,Clive,
You may also want to try www.vintageparts.net,Saturday 2-Dec-2000 13:20:13,209.197.132.30 writes,for any Suzi bits. They have an online parts listing that's easily viewable with most computers/monitors/video cards.,H2RICK,
1975 GT 250,Wednesday 29-Nov-2000 15:15:15,24.4.255.196 writes,I've just aquired a Gold 1975 GT250.I'm looking for a service manual owners manual& tool kit.Can anyone point me in the right direction to locate these items?Thanks Chris,Chris Caputo,[email protected]
Re: 1975 GT 250,Friday 1-Dec-2000 20:12:41,205.188.193.42 writes,Chris- I have a lesser known Suzuki twin the GT185 from '74-'75. I know that the manuals for it (Haynes Clymer) are no longer in print. I've scoured the "literature department" of several salvage yards with no luck. However I do see service manuals for these types of bike on e-bay occasionally. Try that or attend a vintage bike swap meet. I've had good luck there for out of print items. Good luck. Paul,Paul,[email protected]


GT 750 Ignition PROBLEM,Wednesday 29-Nov-2000 12:58:28,24.189.180.217 writes,My gt750 has an ignition problem. the left cylinder fires with the revs low but i have no spark at 1/2 throttle and above. I changed the points and condensers on all 3 cylinders now get this! i have electrical continuity when the points are open or closed. th bike will run but has the same problem. Do you think it might be the ignition coil for that one cylinder?<BR>thanks <BR>Ian ,IAN,[email protected]
Re: GT 750 Ignition PROBLEM,Thursday 30-Nov-2000 03:37:35,195.102.200.180 writes,If you've got a circuit when the points are opened AND closed then the point earth wire may not be connected properly or is making only intermittent contact. Have a check of that and make doubly sure that the connections are completely free of grease / oil -- cassette tape head cleaning fluid is good for this as it evaporates instantly with no residue.<BR><BR>Good luck,Craig,




"Some Good News & Some Bad News",Tuesday 28-Nov-2000 18:14:08,128.101.248.77 writes, Took the lower case in and cleaned it today the broken banjo will be replaced by some sort of home brew piping. My machinist buddy will turn a new section to plug into the gear end of the pump shaft for $30. Things were looking up until I got home and got the crank out and perused it more closely. Egad!Cancer of the small end-yuck! Are rod kits available anymore? Head's still wont come off that little stud. I'm a little discouraged but if a crank o'haul doesn't break me I'll be ok. Anybody got any cranks in their cupboard? Guzzi John,John Pierson,[email protected]
Re: " Some good news & Some bad news,Tuesday 28-Nov-2000 21:14:33,195.92.168.167 writes,Hi John Sorry to hear the bad news. Are you sure the small end eye is out of service limits?<BR>In many cases fitting a full topend kit ie: Little end bearing Wrist Pin Circlips and Thrust Washers ( depending on the type of rods fitted ) will restore each cylinder to a serviceable condition. A full set (3) cylinders is only £35 or about $50 USD excluding gaskets and O rings.<BR>Rods are still available if needed try Sam Costanzo at Vintage Suzuki but they are not cheap. Around 75$ USD each.,Clive,
Re:rust ,Tuesday 28-Nov-2000 21:44:41,134.84.252.97 writes, the small end of one rod and maybe a second show erosion of the surface from rust. I don't know how long a new pin and bearing would last with the small end bore less than perfectly smooth. Does that fellow Sam have a web site? I guess considering the rest of the engine and bike is in fairly good shape save for a seat cover investing in it is preferable to parting it out. This could become a long term project put on the back burner until parts or another bike/engine might appear. Is there anywhere on the net that part numbers can be looked up? One of the suppliers I contacted will give substantial discounts for buyers who have part numbers up front. Guzzi John,john pierson,[email protected]
Re: Some good news & Some bad news,Tuesday 28-Nov-2000 21:27:45,195.92.168.167 writes,Send your address by e-mail and I will send you a useable Water pump shaft and bearing. Also an overflow pipe if I can find one out.<BR>Suggest you buy a repair kit for the water pump but try one of the manny NOS dealers you have over there. Cheaper than your local Suzuki Dealer.,Clive,
Re: Re: Some good news & Some bad news,Tuesday 28-Nov-2000 23:58:31,209.197.132.30 writes,John:<BR><BR>E mail the exact parts you need and I will try to find part numbers for you in the big Suzuki interchange parts book. Clive's advice is good on trying to salvage that small end if you can. You MAY want to try to find a slightly oversize wrist pin if possible and clean up the small end with an expandable hone taking out as little as possible and finishing up with some 600 grit and then some 1200 grit wet & dry papers. You didn't say how deep the pitting was so you're the judge on this idea. It's a touchy job but CAN be done and it's better than dismantling the crank to change a rod and crank pin especially cylinder #2. ,H2RICK,[email protected]
Re: Re: Re: Some good news & Some bad news,Wednesday 29-Nov-2000 11:48:04,160.94.79.39 writes,,,
Re: Re: Re: Some good news & Some bad news,Wednesday 29-Nov-2000 12:09:05,160.94.79.39 writes, Hi Rick thanks for the offer. If your honing idea is feasible on the rod then pins&rollers might do it. I'll have to take a magnifying glass to the big ends and look for any bad signs there as well as do a dial measure of the rod slop. The top end looks fairly usable so maybe besides the water pump seal all I'll need is a head gasket. Other gaskets can be made and seals and bearings are easy to get at our local bearing supply. Twenty years ago I worked on the Minneapolis campus and we had a wonderful shop with a 75ton press that I built cranks on. Ten years ago they shut that whole operation down and dispersed the workers across the campus. Those of us with enough senority fled to the St. Paul campus where we still operate in the old way allbeit with much less in facilities. I've got a press but much smaller and none of the other bits other than my lead hammer to attempt crank work. Every time I have misgivings about this project I just look at the picture of the beautiful silver-gray '75 on one of the Buff pages. That's what I've got and she's going to ride again! If I won the lottery I'd give her fresh everything but I'l live with one that's getting a little creaky(just like me!). Guzzi John,John Pierson,[email protected]
Re: Re: Some good news & Some bad news,Wednesday 29-Nov-2000 11:47:31,160.94.79.39 writes, Hi Clive I'd be forever greatful for any such help. I'm in the 'Great White North'called [email protected] Sumter ave.no. Champlin Mn-55316. Today I brought in the pistons and cleaned them. The crowns look a little like the surface of the moon but worse yet two look as if they had been dropped-one has a nice round dent in the top edge as if someone had hit it with the handle of a screwdriver the other has a mark across the piston lands similar to vice jaws or screw threads(but only on one side?). The piston that lived with the worst rod has marks on the skirt where moisture had got in during some long ago storage period. The piston appear quite usable but it's certainly not an engine I want to hop up and lean on. I've already been into our seal bins here at work looking for suitable carbon and have the metal side polished out. H2 Rick has access to a parts book so he'll get me numbers if I send him a list. He also suggested fitting an oversize small end roller after honing the rod bore a bit. I'm not up on what's available in that direction but an old racer buddy has a bike/snowmobile machine shop close to my home so I'll go visit him for more advice. Discouragement breeds determination in us 'Sons of Norway'. The Saga continues talk to you soon. Guzzi John ,G.J.,[email protected]
Re: gt750 problem,Wednesday 29-Nov-2000 12:54:43,24.189.180.217 writes,My gt750 has an ignition problem. the left cylinder fires with the revs low but i have no spark at 1/2 throttle and above. I changed the points and condensers on all 3 cylinders now get this! i have electrical continuity when the points are open or closed. th bike will run but has the same problem. Do you think it might be the ignition coil for that one cylinder?<BR>thanks <BR>Ian ,Ian,[email protected]



Carb rebuild and questions,Tuesday 28-Nov-2000 11:51:42,129.59.205.114 writes,I rebuilt my BS40 carbs on my '74 GT750 using some kits I got from Australia. They included many items: new main jets (all 110's) pilot jets float valve needle and seat enriching system plungers gaskets and springs float bowl gaskets float bowl drain plug gaskets jet needles and circlips. I rebuilt the carbs because I was getting a very dark plug on the left cylinder plus that fact it is 26 years old and has 42K miles. I did a recent change of points condensers and timed the bike and the ignition system seems fine. I put the circlips in the middle of five grooves on the jet needles (4DN18's) as that is the way the originals were set up. The bike runs strongly now but I still have a darker than expected electrode on the left cylinder. Two questions: First what is the normal clip position on the needles? Second I did not replace the needle jets as they weren't included in the kits but I am now wondering if the richness may be due to worn needle jets! Damn I don't want to pull the carbs again. I have read that you may have to drop the needles a groove or two on older bikes to help compensate for needle jet wear. I seek all sagely advive in this matter.<BR><BR>Bill,Bill Eickmeier,[email protected]
Re: Carb rebuild and questions,Tuesday 28-Nov-2000 23:47:27,209.197.132.30 writes,Bill:<BR><BR>Worn needle jets are a possibility but logic says that they would all wear evenly together right ?? I would suspect one of either: SRIS blockage on that cylinder (either the check valve or the line somewhere) OR a weaker than normal spark (for a variety of reasons).<BR>According to my specs..yes clip should be in centre or third slot. Main jets should be: <BR>cyls 1 & 3..110<BR>cyl 2...107.5<BR>Needle should be 4DN18<BR>Needle jet should be a Z-0 (that's zero NOT oh)<BR>Pilot jets should be 47.5<BR><BR>Just for hellery check that SRIS system. Cyl 1 dumps into Cyl 3. If Cyl 1 can't get rid of the unburned gas/oil it will show slightly rich on the plug. <BR><BR>Another thing (which we don't want to think about) is a bad crank seal on cyl 1. If so pray that it's the outboard one not the inboard one. Keep us posted on this.,H2RICK,
Re: Carb rebuild and questions,Wednesday 29-Nov-2000 03:59:18,195.102.200.158 writes,How much darker than the others is it? It's also worth checking the baffle / exhaust is clear. If it's not badly fouled sooty or wet I'd be tempted not to worry about it and just enjoy the ride ... these subtle variations can drive you mad after a while,Craig,
Re: Carb rebuild and questions,Saturday 2-Dec-2000 07:57:11,198.76.106.253 writes,Have you synchronized the carbs?,Zooke,



Expansion Chambers,Tuesday 28-Nov-2000 11:19:52,24.231.28.211 writes,Can I use a set of Expansion chambers that came off a H2 engine. This bike was a drag bike so the chambers are after market. I know I will have to do some mods to get them to fit. I was wondering will they cause any problems with the operation of the GT 750 that I am putting them on.<BR><BR>,Atlantic Pirate,
Re: Expansion Chambers,Tuesday 28-Nov-2000 21:42:51,12.84.229.164 writes,I started to use chambers from an H1 on my GT 550 but decided against it. I'm not sure about bore and stroke but I'd assume the port timing is different on the H2. The H2 chambers are tuned to work best in a certain RPM range with that engine. If they are off a drag bike they probably are tuned for max. power at high RPM. I know Kawasaki pipes are easier to find but that would be the only reason to use them. The Suzuki T 500 Fanatics web site has specs. for 2 different race pipes used by the factory teams back in the 70's. You can have cones rolled to those dimensions by Air Cone for around $150.00. Then you just need to get them welded up. That way you will have a system you know will work with your bike. You would also have to use your headers from your old system or make some from exhaust tubing. Instructions for that are on the T 500 site also. Good luck which ever way you go. ,Todd T.,
Re: Re: Expansion Chambers,Tuesday 28-Nov-2000 23:27:34,209.197.132.30 writes,A.P:<BR><BR>Listen to Todd. He knows his stuff. The port timing on the Buffalo is VERY different from the H2. Those chambers would NOT do what you expect at all. You could very well LOSE power compared to the stock pipes even. Two stroke engines are VERY touchy about exhaust configuration due to pressure pulses and a whole other bunch of stuff that is beyond my physics. You would be well advised to sell those H2 chambers and use the money to buy the right ones for the Buffalo or have a set made as Todd suggests. Good luck on this.,H2RICK,



Fairing and seats used on early T500 racers,Tuesday 28-Nov-2000 05:38:33,193.185.55.253 writes,Hi <BR><BR>can anyone please tell what 1/2 fairings and seats that were used on early T500 racers in late 60's and early 70's?<BR><BR>I'm thinking about building a replica so any information is wellcome! Example pitures can be found at Murrays excellent site ("MCM 71" -story).<BR><BR>Thanks!,Stefan,
Crooks Suzuki,Wednesday 29-Nov-2000 09:07:10,216.209.137.60 writes,They still make them apparently and charge 2 arms and a leg for them - how do you think they got their name?!,Stephen,[email protected]



"Am I a Mechanic or a Mouse?",Monday 27-Nov-2000 20:14:37,128.101.253.43 writes, The Buff is nothing but a pile of bits now. Everything inside looks quite good save for one pitted piston pin. The water pump has a badly corroded shaft and bad seals. A new pump is $160.00 locally and the waterseal about $50.00. I hope to resurrect the pump with the help of a machinist friend who can sleeve the shaft and off the shelf pump seals that we use for rebuilds at the U of Mn. If anyone has a source of parts oem or otherwise in the US I'd liketo know of it. I can make or repair many bits but sometimes the peace of mind you get with new stuff is worth it. Now that I'm this deep in the Buff it's all or nothing. The ports will be attacked and the search will go on for those elusive old chambers. I'm already having fun every day a bit or two will go to work with me for cleaning and inspection. Tomorrow the lower case goes and I will get up close and personal with that broken banjo fitting. The tranny teeth look great and the shift dogs show little sign of wear or abuse. The pistons and cylinder walls appear fine also. All the engine proper needs is that one piston pin(maybe three if they're cheap). I may even mill the head if I can get the silly thing off the barrels! Any one got any ideas? It's not even december yet so I've got all winter to play with it. And if it doesn't get done that's ok there are three other runners waiting to roll. Who knows? This mania may yet bring me to put this mill in the '83 chassis! Let's see if I put casters on the ends of the engine-Help! I'm raving and I can't stop. Guzzi John,john pierson,[email protected]
I vote for 'Mechanic'. Anyone that will tackle...,Tuesday 28-Nov-2000 00:12:49,209.197.132.30 writes,a corroded on Buffalo head has to be a mechanic although with a touch of 'off-the-wallness'. LOLOL. Maybe try some of that spray gasket remover first...Loctite makes some and there are others. The solution to the pump seal thing has eluded a lot of smart guys over the years. If your metallic side is OK and not scored then you are home free. You CAN make the carbon side out of the carbon element of any mechanical seal assembly. The trick is not to screw up the lapped face while you're turning it down to size. This really needs someone to take the stock carbon element go to a place that sells the damn things and go through their bins for a (closest) matchup. Evidently some dishwashers use a small size mechanical seal like this. The lip seal on the tranny side should not be a problem. Good luck and keep us posted.<BR>PS: of course the tranny's in good shape...it's a Suzuki two stroke not a brand K two stroke.<BR><BR>PPS: when you replace that wrist pin spend another $5 or $7 and buy the bearing as well. Cheap insurance....and you'll fell better about the whole thing too.<BR>,H2RICK,



TR500 frames or replicas,Sunday 26-Nov-2000 11:24:22,207.61.115.69 writes,Is anyone aware of the existence of any TR500 frames TR500 replica frame builders designs jigs etc.?,Stephen,[email protected]
Re: TR500 frames or replicas,Sunday 26-Nov-2000 11:59:16,198.76.106.73 writes,About 4 years back I was e-mailed about a guy who would build me any frame I wanted. I asked about him building a replica TR500 frame a Seeley would be better he said he could do one for about $2000.<BR><BR>I no longer have his e-mail or address but he was on the net.<BR><BR>There are people who will do it for a price. ,Zooke,
Re: TR500 frames or replicas,Sunday 26-Nov-2000 19:09:06,198.142.91.39 writes,I have a replica frame why because I was serious about racing and the metallurgy was better also some subtle bracing helped.<BR><BR>John Woodley in Australia made them. I can check if he still does. Otherwise you can buy my whole bike which is for sale.,Muzza,
Re: Re: TR500 frames or replicas - a thought,Monday 27-Nov-2000 17:52:35,198.142.80.57 writes,For those who have never tried the alternative there is nothing like riding a TR race frame (replica or otherwise). It may not go much faster than a highly modded race frame but the ride is so exciting so different and it feels fast!!!! Real fast. The engine sits up higher and further forward. You sit in the bike and further forward feet up real high. The lean forward over the tank is long and mean. The bike feels light and quick to turn. I had TR frame and a standard frame bikes and raced them at the same meetings. The T500 modded bike felt long. low heavy and bland. Felt like sitting on a fencing rail. The TR was a thrill even if I didn't go much quicker. Nothing like it.,muzza,
That's the feel I want! If I don't have the fastest motor I want the best handling most confidence inspiring ride. After all most vintage racers are limited by their fear not their wallets.,Wednesday 29-Nov-2000 09:10:08,216.209.137.60 writes,,Stephen,[email protected]




TS50 STUFF FOR GARY & JEAN MARC,Sunday 26-Nov-2000 10:36:30,209.197.132.30 writes,I talked to the wrecking yard guy and he's pretty sure that he has a rotary valve 50 in "some kind of frame" but will NOT separate motor from frame etc. He says "if the engine turns - C$200. If it doesn't turn - C$100". He will let me know tomorrow whether it turns or not. Let me know ASAP if either of you guys is/are still interested and I will contact him tomorrow.,H2RICK,
Re: TS50 : Jean Marc Drop me a line.,Monday 27-Nov-2000 07:43:02,149.99.115.51 writes,,Gary,[email protected]
Re: TS50 STUFF FOR GARY & JEAN MARC,Monday 27-Nov-2000 07:45:41,149.99.115.51 writes,Rick let me know if it turns. Any luck with your friend and his motor? Thanks alot for the help. Gary,Gary,[email protected]


T500 Carb Settings,Sunday 26-Nov-2000 08:49:31,195.92.198.79 writes,Help!<BR><BR>Can anyone help me with some starting figures for jet sizes for my T500L. Barrels are ported to give about 58/60 BHP with Swarbrick expansion chambers. I will use 34mm Mikunis but I need some suggestions where to start with jet sizes. I assume they will need to be larger than the 160/180 mains jet used with VM32 's .<BR>Are my VM34s too big for this state of tune on a road bike? I will use K&Ns or is there any better filter arrangement?<BR><BR>Regards Phil - UK<BR><BR>,Phil in UK,[email protected]
Re: T500 Carb Settings,Thursday 30-Nov-2000 18:25:28,195.92.168.168 writes,Hi Phil <BR> An L model T500 in standard form produces 44 BHP acording to Suzuki. That is probably about 35 BHP at the back wheel. Again in standard form your bike should be running VM32's with a 97.5 main jet. The largest optional jet Suzuki list for the VM32 is a 152.5 main jet.<BR> The only way you are going to get your carburation sorted is to buy lots of jets then put the bike on a Dynometer and experiment. You have changed too many things for anyone to even have a stab at the right jetting. The only people in the UK who could possibly give you a starting point are Crooks Suzuki 01229 822120.,Clive,



Differences in T/GT 500 Barrels?,Saturday 25-Nov-2000 23:39:45,205.232.94.151 writes,Rumor has it that the GT was detuned from the T series and thereby less potent. Is this so? I've got barrels from both models that are in great shape and trying to decide which to use. Thanks.,Kris Larrivee,
Re: Differences in T/GT 500 Barrels?,Sunday 26-Nov-2000 03:06:04,198.142.91.1 writes,wouldn't worry too much for the street. For racing both barrels are ok as you have to port them anyway. The main difference is in the intake port. Have a look and compare the later barrels have a lot of meat there. You can grind it out with a bit of care to open it up. Don't blame the GT500 gor that though these de-tuned barrels came out with the T500M. Suzi was embarrassed because the old twin 500 could blow off the new flash 550 triple so they detuned them from 47bhp to 42 bhp by glugging up the intake porting and changing the carb intake length and carb settings. The 500 then chewed up as much juice as the triple and went no faster.<BR>,muzza,
Re: Re: Differences in T/GT 500 Barrels? - correction,Sunday 26-Nov-2000 07:59:35,198.142.91.39 writes,Actually it was the T500K that started the decline not the M typing mistake.,Muzza,



Race of the Millenium....Tens of thousands...,Sunday 26-Nov-2000 10:26:30,209.197.132.30 writes,travel to Oz to see H2RICK on his GT550A Indy take on Muzza on his GT500A Titan. LOLOLOL<BR>It would be interesting....the Titan would probably get whomped because of the lower HP as you mention. However more interesting would be a race between the 550A and a T500II or R with the higher output. I think the Titan should have more pull off the line (sprints) or our of the corners<BR>(road course) but I think the Indy would come across the line first. I KNOW the Indy rider would arrive at the finish more relaxed and with no "numb-arm/hand/butt" syndrome like the Titan rider.<BR>LOLOLOLOL<BR>Hey Muzza when I'm rich and famous we'll set this up and I'll pay to fly all interested parties to Oz to watch. Zooke gets a front row centre seat if we can keep him out of the pit area. LOLOLOLOL,H2RICK,
Re: Out of the pit...I don't think you could keep me off the track. I'll bring a 68 Cobra!!!,Sunday 26-Nov-2000 11:54:23,198.76.106.73 writes,,Zooke,[email protected]
Re: Re: Out of the pit...I don't think you could keep me off the track. I'll bring a 68 Cobra!!!,Sunday 26-Nov-2000 19:06:31,198.142.91.39 writes,The race has been run and won and is history already. The GT550 is a nice buzzbox and can be fun I know I've had one. But history shows T500 racebikes but no GT550s and why capacity classes for one reason but basically the GT550 was heavy and had no advantage on the track. On the road maybe but then that was why I bought a GT750. The T500J and earlier will eat GT550s for breakfast especially if there are corners and hills. Still these days if someone wants to give me a good example of either...well...<BR>My main point is about Suzuki marketting which is hard to deny. The air-cooled triples took them down the wrong road at the wrong time along with the rotary. LOL Muzz,muzza,
Muzza I think you're probably right...,Monday 27-Nov-2000 09:48:53,24.64.0.9 writes,in your asessment with the displacement thing and partially with the weight thing. The 380/550 was a reply to Kawi Triples but fell short because of Suzuki's conservative design enginewise and too much metal on the bikes generally. With a weight savings program more radical port timing/sizing<BR>and possibly water cooling on the 550 (yes I know...more weight) the 550 MIGHT have been a winner. Leave out the water cooling and you would have had a bike much like the Mach III but with better durability and better handling.<BR>Re the RE5: you really owe it to yourself to try one of these that's in good nick. Yes they are pale compared to later bikes but AT THE TIME they were an endless "well of torque" that just wouldn't quit. As well the handling was the best of any Japanese bike then on the market approaching (dare I say it ?) British/Italian standards especially at speed. With modern tires they are quite good handlers even today.<BR>IMHO,H2RICK,
Would that be the 4 wheel version ?? LOLOLOLOL NOT !!!,Monday 27-Nov-2000 14:36:23,24.64.0.9 writes,,H2RICK,
Re: Would that be the 4 wheel version ?? LOLOLOLOL NOT !!!,Monday 27-Nov-2000 17:46:49,198.142.80.57 writes,Yeah the rotary was much maligned but for Australian conditions we just couldn't take that thing outback it was an engineering nightmare and no-one knew how to tune never mind fix one. Out bush it is a long way to a Suzi dealer and no-one can hear you scream! Again too heavy too thirsty too complex and too bland...that engine was torquey too right but it just went on and on with a flat exhaust note....I wanted screaming water-cooled two stroke revs at that stage...give me power band! <BR>Boy were those RE5s cheap..Suzi couldn't even give them away in the end and you could pick 2 or 3 bikes secondhand for a song until recently. No parts though and ugly styling for the 1st model.<BR>As to GT triple air-cooled...see Hi Tac on my website..they built water-cooling kits for the 380 and 550 and even built a 500cc water-cooled kit for the 380. Now that would have been nice!<BR><BR>http://members.nbci.com/tr500/t500index.htm<BR><BR>You know H2Rick you have moved me so much I might even put a tribute to the GT550 and 380 up on my website. Wouldn't that be nice. Hey everyone send me pics of your wild GTs!!!!,Muzza,[email protected]



"Buff laid bare" ,Saturday 25-Nov-2000 18:53:17,128.101.254.46 writes, Got the engine out and split today. The answer to the tranny leak is the hose barb on the banjo fitting going into the bottom of the case is broken off. I find this to be a little unusual being as I think that it would take outside force rather than simply vibration to break that piece. I can't be sure if the engine has been apart before but there are numbers written on the flywheels with a vibro-etcher. I take this to mean that the crank has been redone. Other than the banjo and one broken clutch plate everything else looks ok. Although the ports beckon for my porting tool I think the wiser path is to leave them be. How much is to be gained with stock carbs and (sigh) pipes? I can barely afford the seat cover clutch plates and chain that it already needs. My dreams of making this into a scratcher make little sense when I already have a nice '83 vision that fills that niche very well. So I guess I'll make it run put my old konis on the back and spruce up the fork and have a nice stroker relic to have fun with. The '83gs750es is in he shed and if its engine should prove unusable the swap is still doable. If anyone else is about to split a buff don't forget the case bolts hidden by the starter. Mine opened like an oyster with just one blow from the hammer to the wooden block. Thanks to my new friend Clive across the pond for some good feedback and advice. Guzzi John ps If anyone finds a set of chambers in their cellar I'd trade my nice '72 Titan for them if they're good.,john pierson,[email protected]
Re: "Buff laid bare",Saturday 25-Nov-2000 21:07:57,195.92.168.168 writes,Nice to see you got it apart OK John. Don't forget to put 2500cc of oil in the gearbox when you finally get it back together and not 2200cc as the manual says.( tech note released by the factory in 1974 refers )<BR>Probable cause of the failure was the hose being fitted the wrong round which can be done. This causes a twist in the hose and can lead to the sort of failure you describe.<BR>If you have a problem getting a replacement part give me a shout. ,Clive,
Re: Re: abused Buffalo,Sunday 26-Nov-2000 10:01:36,209.197.132.30 writes,John:<BR><BR>This type of thing can happen if a guy is not careful tightening up the banjo bolt on reassembly. You have to align the banjo correctly and HOLD it in position as you tighten the banjo bolt. If not the banjo bolt will sometimes twist the banjo as you turn your wrench/socket. This will put an incredible strain on the nylon line and ....voila...broken line. A little tanny or injector oil (as appropriate) on the sealing sirfaces of the banjo and bolt helps with this.<BR>Why not clean up the ports and polish the piston crowns ?? It can't hurt and you're not going to go crazy and make a mirror finish on the ports anyway so won't take long to do. Just give them a general cleaup especially if they're roughly cast. The piston crowns will benefit from a nice thorough polishing as they will stay nice and clean because there will be less rough surface for deposits to cling to. That's ALWAYS<BR>the FIRST thing I do on an engine as it only costs elbow grease and a little time. I hope you finish it up and get'er back on the road. You get more "smiles per gallon" on a triple 2 stoke than on a 4 stroke IMHO.<BR>Good luck with your project.,H2RICK,




Quick and easy way to tell frames apart ...,Saturday 25-Nov-2000 11:53:31,216.209.137.11 writes,Look at the tank mounting points at the front of the frame (where the rubber bumpers mount). If they are amlost flush with the metal gusset then it is a T500 frame. If they stand off by about an inch then the frame is a GT500 frame. Different tank so different mounts.<BR><BR>If it is a T500 frame look at the swing arm. If there are no passenger peg mounts then it is a pre-75 frame. If the peg mounts are on the swingarm it is a '75. For all years but '75 the rear pegs mounted on the exhaust hanger.<BR><BR>Now someone will no doubt pop up with an exception. This would likely be due to a difference between when the bike was manufatured and when it was registered (i.e. sold). I have also seen bikes badged as GT's when the were in fact T's. These may be after the fact changes or merged production runs where old parts were used up as the new model was introduced.,Stephen,[email protected]






RIS HOSE CLIPS,Friday 24-Nov-2000 15:55:10,195.92.168.164 writes,SRIS hose clips ( 09401-04401 ) should be available in Canada and the USA from ANY SUZUKI DEALER if the RGV 250 was imported to your countries it uses the same part. This could be the reason the part is freely available in the UK.<BR>I am prepared to co-ordinate a bulk purchase of this part for you guys in Canada and the USA if you cannot get the part.<BR>Anyone interested leave an e-mail address in the reply column.,Clive,
Re: SRIS HOSE CLIPS AND ......RGV250 ???,Saturday 25-Nov-2000 10:37:25,209.197.132.30 writes,Clive:<BR><BR>Thanks for the offer. As mentioned earlier I will check today (Saturday) at the dealer and see if the clips are available in Canada under that part number. If not you will hear from me.<BR>Also: what the devil is an RGV250 ?? Is that some kind of UK market designation for a later <BR>GT 250 ?? Or is it a modern water cooled 250 twin with nothing to do with the old Hustler series ?? What were the production model years ?? Are there pics on the web someplace ?? Are they still produced ?? Were they sold in other markets besides the UK ?? I've never heard of such a model...however I must admit my knowledge of Suzi two strokes stopped in 1977 with the last ones that were sold in North America. Let me know.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: SRIS HOSE CLIPS AND ......RGV250 ???,Saturday 25-Nov-2000 17:45:25,195.92.168.164 writes,The RGV 250 is a V Twin two stroke that was available in Europe upto the mid 90's. It may even still be in production.<BR>Aprillia (Italy) still make a bike based on it for road and GP use.<BR>I did the rounds of our UK dealers sympathetic to older bikes and bought a batch of clips (36) enough for 6 bikes. They cost me £24 which is about $33 USD. I am willing to sell them on at cost if you are interested.,Clive,
Re: Re: Re: SRIS HOSE CLIPS AND ......RGV250 ???,Sunday 26-Nov-2000 10:08:02,209.197.132.30 writes,Clive:<BR><BR>The RGV250 was never sold in North America as far as I can find out so it's kinda neat to hear that<BR>Suzuki was/is STILL building medium bore 2 stroke road bikes.<BR><BR>On the clips: I went back to my dealer yesterday and pursued this with him. The number you gave me worked but his excuse was that it had been revised/changed up 6 or 8 times and that's why he hadn't found it in the first place. Also just for laffs I got him to look up the numbers for the GT550 SRIS lines and those numbers are STILL good too. I forgot to get him to look up the numbers for the screens but will do that next week. Thank you for your kind offer on the clips though.,H2RICK,


jetting for T500R with pods.,Thursday 23-Nov-2000 09:26:57,202.139.226.20 writes,Hi all. Well the beast is registered & a joy to ride ! Just read a guy put a whole in a piston & was wondering if the jets I have gone to are right ? I have replaced the 150's with 190's running foam pod filters . If anything I think these may be too big as she dosn't like the throttle slapped open I have to ease it round . Timing is set with strobe at 3.5mm BTDC. Which I also believe is correct . Should I go to perhaps just 160's? or can I run safely with 150's ?<BR> Thanks Paul ( brisbane ),Paul ( Brisbane ),[email protected]
Re: jetting for T500R with pods.,Thursday 23-Nov-2000 10:42:44,195.102.200.136 writes,The only real way to get the right jets is to do plug chops and go down in small steps ... say from 190 to 185 then to 180 etc. <BR><BR>Get a handful of new NGK plugs of the right grade and have some full-throttle fun! But err on the rich side: those big strokers like having a little extra fuel in the mixture ...,Craig,
Re: Re: jetting for T500R with pods.,Thursday 23-Nov-2000 23:45:07,209.197.132.30 writes,And if you haven't mentioned/thought of it....<BR>don't forget to go up one or two sizes on the pilot jets as well i.e. if stock is 35 then go to 37.5 or 40. You CAN hole a piston when you bang the throttle shut with a HOT engine under the right conditions.,H2RICK,
jetting for T500R with pods.,Thursday 23-Nov-2000 09:26:04,202.139.227.211 writes,Hi all. Well the beast is registered & a joy to ride ! Just read a guy put a whole in a piston & was wondering if the jets I have gone to are right ? I have replaced the 150's with 190's running foam pod filters . If anything I think these may be too big as she dosn't like the throttle slapped open I have to ease it round . Timing is set with strobe at 3.5mm BTDC. Which I also believe is correct . Should I go to perhaps just 160's? or can I run safely with 150's ?<BR> Thanks Paul ( brisbane ),Paul ( Brisbane ),[email protected]



GT500 front forks/wheel on a T500?,Tuesday 21-Nov-2000 09:55:49,198.107.240.10 writes,Will this work? I do believe that the sizes are the same. I am looking to disc brak my T500 but I want more of a stock look? Anyone have one for sale? I'm in the Northwest US.,RD,[email protected]
It's a direct fit and works well provided you use the entire front end.,Wednesday 22-Nov-2000 09:10:53,206.172.135.145 writes,,Stephen,



T500 oil tank filter,Tuesday 21-Nov-2000 09:45:42,152.1.208.16 writes,I took the oil outlet assembly off the bottom of my T500K to drain the oil tank. My question is this: I have seen mention of an oil filter somewhere in-line with this assembly. My Chilton's manual refers to it as "magnetic". I peered down inside the tank with a flashlight and saw a little plastic & mesh filter post stiking up from the oil outlet. This is obviously a filter - how is it removed? Is there another "magnetic" filter somewhere I missed? I'm not gonna lose any sleep over this but I am curious. Thanks.,Matt,[email protected]
Re: T500 oil tank filter,Tuesday 21-Nov-2000 10:01:23,198.76.106.96 writes,Matt <BR><BR>The mesh filter comes out through the bottom of the oil tank. The magnet is in the bowl and sometimes is missing. If it comes loose which is very possible then you can epoxy it back in.,Zooke,
Re: Re: T500 oil tank filter,Tuesday 21-Nov-2000 10:18:00,152.1.208.16 writes,Thanks Zooke. Is the "bowl" the lowermost portion of the oil tank outlet assembly -<BR>the part with a small hex nut that faces straight down towards the ground when the outlet assembly is installed on the oil tank? I take it if this is the case the bowl unscrews (counterclockwise?) from the rest of the unit. Mine would not budge but I didn't really apply desperate force since I wasn't sure.<BR>Also does the mesh filter post just pop out or does it screw out? Sorry for the nit-picking but all components are gummy and stick on my bike since they have not been dissasembled in a long long time. Thanks Zooke!,Matt,
Re: Re: Re: T500 oil tank filter,Tuesday 21-Nov-2000 14:36:36,198.76.106.185 writes,Yes the bowl is the lower most part with the hex. It unscrews counter clockwise. And the screen just pops out but is a rather tight fit. So do it gently.,Zooke,
Re: Re: Re: Re: T500 oil tank filter,Tuesday 28-Nov-2000 23:21:13,4.16.91.8 writes,Thanks Zooke. It all came apart with no worries. Everything was clean anyway. I did have to use a little silicon caulk around the oil tank level window 'cause the gasket was cracked and weeping. ,Matt,



Smoking way too much,Monday 20-Nov-2000 18:25:36,192.43.65.245 writes,My GT750 has been sitting for eight months.<BR><BR>When I parked it it ran fine. I started it up a week ago and it made smoke like you wouldn't believe and when I removed the chambers they had oil in them. My guess is somehow two stroke oil flooded? the crankcase. If this is the case how do I get it out easily. Basically if it ran for more than 30 seconds someone would call the fire dept.<BR>Any help would be greatly appreciated.<BR>Thanks.,jose,[email protected]
Re: Smoking way too much,Tuesday 21-Nov-2000 00:04:06,209.197.132.30 writes,CAUTION: The following instructions presume a certain amount of mechanical skill/knowledge on your part. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS PROCEDURE UNLESS<BR>YOU HAVE ADEQUATE MECHANICAL SKILLS OR ARE SUPERVISED BY A COMPETENT MECHANIC.<BR><BR>Jose:<BR><BR>What year is your Buffalo ?? If it is a 1973 "K" model built later than 7/72 then it has screw-in style oil "recycle" valves (Suzuki calls this system SRIS) in the lower front of the crancase with black rubber lines running to them if it's still stock. If it is a 1972 "J" model you CANNOT do the following procedure because the recycle valves in those engines are PRESSED IN and much more fussy for a newbie to deal with.<BR>If you DO have the screw in style then:<BR><BR>Clean the area where the lines attach to the recycle valves. There SHOULD be a little steel clip over top of the rubber line where it is fitted over a spigot that sticks out of the recycle valve. <BR>CAREFULLY using a small flat bladed screw driver pry this clip toward the front wheel to move the clip away from the recycle valve. Sometimes the hose will come away from the valve with the clip at the same time but that's OK. Now remove the recycle valve with a deep socket I think 12 mm. Do this for all the recycle valves. If you have a LOT of injector oil in the crank chambers it will be running out at this point. In any event you will have to roll the engine over with the kick starter (ignition key off) to try to pump the final bit of excess oil out of the crank chambers. Happiness now ?? Most/all oil out ?? Great !!<BR>Now take the recycle valves and check the strainers on the end of them. Are they plastic or metal ?? If they're plastic order new metal strainers from your dealer under part #11300-31845. Do NOT toss the plastic ones UNTIL<BR>you get the new metal ones. <BR>While you're waiting for the metal ones to arrive wash the recycle valves in solvent by letting them soak in clean room temperature solvent for a day or two then swishing them around to get all the crap out of them. They CAN be disassembled but this is NOT recommended for newbies. <BR>Do NOT use compressed air to try to clean them. Instead of solvent you can use a dip-type carburetor cleaner if you have any. Auto parts places have some made by Gunk that comes in a gallon can and is reusable many many times. If you're doing your own work on carbs it's great to have anyway. If you clean the recycle valves in carb cleaner let them soak for about 1 hour and then wash them in clean solvent. <BR>Install your new metal strainers carefully screw<BR>the valves back into the block not forgetting to put the aluminum seal washer on the valve first and then push the rubber hoses back onto their proper valve spigots. Gently slide the retainer clip back down the hose and over the part of the hose that was slid over the spigot. Be very careful not to break those clips as they are not available as spare parts anymore.<BR>Happy days....you're all done and ready to rock and roll.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Smoking way too much,Tuesday 21-Nov-2000 19:10:09,195.92.168.164 writes,All GT750's smoke like a battle ship after a long layup period.<BR>Don't bother trying to remove the SRIS valves because with the motor in the frame it is impossible to remove the left hand one anyway.<BR>It is possible to suck the exess oil out of the crank chambers by un clipping the tubes connected to the SRIS valves at the opposite end to the valve its self and sucking slowly with a syringe.<BR>The small clips that hold the pipes in position are available but the SRIS strainers are not in any form.<BR>Personally I would take the bike for a run but DO NOT exceed 3500 RPM untill the temp gauge is half way between cold and normal. This procedure should be adopted when starting all Buffalo's from cold due to the minimal running clearance of 1.98 thou.,Clive,
Re: Re: Re: Smoking way too much,Tuesday 21-Nov-2000 23:09:31,209.115.233.113 writes,Where do you live Clive ?? My dealer in Canada says no go on the clips. If you're in Canada too then I'm going to have a little talk with my dealer and straighten him out...and I'll recheck the strainer thing too.<BR>Great idea about the syringe but the valves should be removed and cleaned periodically especially if you've been misfiring for any length of time on a particular cylinder and/or suspect you have/had a leak in the inlet air tract anywhere.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Re: Re: Smoking way too much,Wednesday 22-Nov-2000 10:21:09,129.59.205.114 writes, I successfully removed the SRIS check valve for the left cylinder last night for a cleaning. When removed approximately 10 cc of oil leaked out the hole. After cleaning in carb cleaner the valve is now free and I am hoping that the cleaned valve will help solve a fouling problem I have had on the left cylinder. If is doesn't I guess it means I have a bad oil seal. It appears to me that the valve for the right-hand cylinder would be very difficult to remove but the left-hand valve was a piece of cake.<BR> In view of the leakage I found what typical volumes of oil might accumulate in the crankcase with all oil seals intact? Is 10 cc too much?,Bill Eickmeier,[email protected]
Re: Smoking way too much,Thursday 23-Nov-2000 21:42:51,195.92.168.167 writes,Hi Guys <BR> Anyone needing SRIS clips can contact me at: [email protected] I will gladly send some over the pond to you.<BR> Or you could look up Paul Miller in New England his e-mail is: [email protected],Clive,
THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR ALL THE HELP,Sunday 26-Nov-2000 19:50:37,32.100.43.110 writes,,jose,[email protected]
Re: Smoking way too much,Friday 1-Dec-2000 02:20:47,38.28.62.221 writes,I have an old t500 that does same thing big smoke signal when starting up after several months--bad seal but maybe big deal to fix. Check manual to see if there isn't a drain plug to the crankcase (crank is lubricated by gas/oil mixture on t500). On mine is 3 plugs: clutch trans. and crankcase. I always have to study piture in book to determine which is which. flatlander,flatlander,[email protected]



Buffalo Tranny Leak Solved!?,Monday 20-Nov-2000 11:52:53,160.94.79.39 writes, After H2 Rick's reply and some further reading I dug out my GT750 Performance Portfolio. There is a short engine rebuild section from a Brit or Ozzie mag(sorry I can't tell without an interpretor). It has a pix of the empty lower case showing the pump housing section and the elusive(I've never found two descriptions that explain it the same!)air oil coolant-vent dribble relief line. My Clymer book shows the line in the blowup of the pump but gives no explanation. It's obvious that the banjo bolt going into the bottom of the case is loose. That explains why every drop of oil can escape. It looks like I have a good winter project ahead. I haven't stripped an engine since my gs1000g 6-8 years ago. I'm thinking of just taking off the bottom and leaving the top end alone. Anyone got any qualms about such a route? The bike has 20k on it and the previous owner inferred that he had put only 3k on it since reassembly and the leak developed. Whether he had the cases apart is irrelevant being as the leak must be repaired. I read somewhere that it isn't unusual for those lines to come loose so it looks like a job for loctite. My only real concern is those pesky crank seals. The bike seems to run fine but I only rode it about a block to check put gearbox operation. Can the sealing lips be seen and probbed with the case half off? I would think bad seals would look and feel unflexible. I should get the thing stripped over the <BR>Thanksgiving holiday. I'll let you all know what I find. Guzzi John,john pierson,[email protected]
Re: Buffalo Tranny Leak Solved!?,Monday 20-Nov-2000 14:47:49,129.59.205.114 writes,John <BR> Good luck with your project. Keep me informed as to your progress. I fear you will be paving the way for me to follow! One thing about my leak is that it does not seem to leak when the bike sits. Rather the oil loss seems to occur when running. I have the Performance Portfolio you describe. I will see if I can find the picture you are referring to. If it is only the seals for the water pump the pump CAN be replaced without pulling the engine. It can be dropped out the bottom of the engine after removal of the two center pipes. Good luck with the project and I hope it doesn't give you indigestion after your Thanksgiving meal!<BR><BR>,Bill Eickmeier,[email protected]
Re: Re: Buffalo Tranny Leak Solved!?,Tuesday 21-Nov-2000 00:45:26,209.197.132.30 writes,Gents:<BR><BR>See my post below in reply to the orignal problem post from John. John's diagnosis is correct. Bill<BR>will want to pull the pump holder as he says.<BR>You guys had it all figured out already and were just checking to see if I was awake or not. LOLOL<BR><BR>Yes John....you can turn the engine upside down and pull the bottom case off but it's not much fun. Yes you can check the seals for flexibility<BR>but VERY CAREFULLY with a small blunt instrument<BR>NOTHING SHARP OR POINTY. Use a strong light MAG light or similar and a magnifying glass and look for radial cracks in the actual sealing lip. <BR>No cracks ?? Happy days. <BR>If you want to be really sure pull one of the outboard seals preferably the primary drive pinion side cuz it's easiest and your fingers will tell you the condition of the elastomer part of the seal. Use the magnifying glass and check the actual sealing edge. Also check for a wear groove on the crank journal. That will tell you a lot in itself. No wear groove ?? Happy days.<BR>Don't forget to use Three Bond crankcase sealer on the exposed halves of the crank seals and also pay particular attention where that water passage goes through both cases. You don't want glycol leaking into the tranny lube. Antifreeze is amazing stuff....the ethylene glycol molecule is smaller than the water molecule.....so....glycol will leak where water will not. You've been warned. <BR><BR>Good luck gents and let us know how things turn out.,H2RICK,




GT380 RAMAIR,Sunday 19-Nov-2000 14:49:25,62.255.194.41 writes,HI H2RICK<BR>PROBLEM SOLVED AQUIRED NEW HEAD FOR £3 WITH<BR>INTACT THREADS<BR><BR>THANKS FOR THE HELP<BR>,BRIAN,
Re: GT380 RAMAIR,Sunday 19-Nov-2000 22:54:43,209.197.132.30 writes,Brian:<BR><BR>Way to go. Such a deal...about C$7.00. NOW you can go to work and salvage the old head as mentioned in my earlier post. Always nice to have a spare around. And don't forget to use new head gaskets and torque the head bolts properly. Ask if you are not sure. I can scan the torquing sequence/value and email it to you if you don't have a Clymer manual. Let me know.,H2RICK,



GARY TS50 STUFF,Sunday 19-Nov-2000 11:52:31,209.197.132.30 writes,Gary:<BR><BR>I went to the wreckers for you yesterday. Depending on what year you have they CAN help but at a cost.<BR>Firstly you have to figure out what engine you have. Is it a rotary valve engine with the carb on the right side and the cylinder sticking out at about a right angle (90 degrees) from the vertical ??? or does the cylinder sit straight up on top of the engine cases with the carb hooked onto the back of the cylinder ??<BR>The rotary valve engines are early-mid 70's and the piston port engines with the straight up cylinder are late 70's - early 80's. For this engine the wreckers want Canadian $ 300 approx<BR>which is about US$ 180. I MAY be able to talk them down somewhat. A guy I know thinks he has one of the earlier engines in his basement and he is going to check and let me know. This option will be much cheaper.<BR>Note that the engines are NOT interchangeable so it is critical to find out exactly what year your bike is. If it is a later bike I BELIEVE the TS75 engine should drop right in but you would have to change pipe and air cleaner too. You may be able to find one of those more easily. The wrecker here has a TS75 engine too.<BR>Let me know build date on steering head sticker <BR>(if still legible) or model/serial number stamped in steering head. This will tell the tale. Is the original engine gone entirely or what ??<BR>Let me know ASAP. Also where are you located ??,H2RICK,
Re: GARY TS50 STUFF,Tuesday 21-Nov-2000 10:40:13,205.189.188.96 writes,Hi H2Rick I have a line on a TS50 but the guy says the engine is stuck(my son and I are interested in a small bike) I need the early engine. 300 Can sounds like alot for the engine. What does your friend want for the one in the basement? I am in Toronto On. I also have a line on parts to turn any more TS50 engines I can get into Screamin' 50 cc road racers. Trying to get my son started on Suzuki's young. Let me know if you find out anything. Thanks. Gary,Gary,[email protected]
Re: Re: GARY TS50 STUFF,Tuesday 21-Nov-2000 14:51:52,24.64.0.10 writes,Gary:<BR><BR>I thought that C$ 300 was steep too. What you would get is a frame w/swingarm front forks and an engine with expansion chamber. He would probably go down somewhat but thinks he's "got" anyone who shows an interest in a particular bike i.e. he thinks you've got the same bike with a bad tranny for instance and knows you can't get tranny parts from Suzuki anymore.<BR>I'll let you know on the price/availability of the 50cc rotary valve engine next week.<BR> ,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Re: GARY TS50 STUFF,Saturday 25-Nov-2000 19:54:11,64.228.168.30 writes,HI I'M ALSO LOOKING FOR A FRONT SPROCKET GUARD TO COMPLETE RESTAURATION OF A 1972 TS-50 HAVE A 1973 PARTS BIKE INCL. FRAME TANK SEAT MUFFLER WHEELS FORKS MOTOR WITH NO CYLINDER/HEAD & OTHER MISC PARTS.,jean marc,[email protected]
Re: Re: Re: Re: GARY TS50 STUFF,Monday 27-Nov-2000 18:32:11,207.134.200.30 writes,Hi Jean Marc. I may be getting what you need as part of another motor I am buying. Contact me at [email protected] Gary,Gary,[email protected]
For Sale:76 GT750,Sunday 19-Nov-2000 09:22:27,152.163.197.54 writes,For sale to a good home: 76 GT750 runs but smokes suspect crank seals bad bike is comlete with fairly new tires and chain includes some extras like a good tank fenders and more misc stuff. Located in NC outside of Raleigh. Asking $750 or BEST OFFER!! Please reply to my e-mail address [email protected] ,Dan,[email protected]
parting out a 75 gt 380,Saturday 18-Nov-2000 17:59:31,216.41.33.24 writes,got a whole bike to part out pistons stuck in cyl. so they might be bad but i'll look if someone is interested. u.s. shipping only e-mail me with your needs.<BR>tim,tim,[email protected]



Suzuki T500R hole in the piston,Saturday 18-Nov-2000 15:39:39,194.230.137.113 writes,Boys I have made a hole in the piston ( cylinder left ) the ignition timing was correct to 24° sparks plugs NGK-8HS. The cylinder right was 26° and he has not anything.<BR>The time was beautiful and warm the speed continuous to 130/150 km/h<BR>I don’t understand. Do I have to regulate the ignition timing everything to 26° ?<BR>Is it because of the unleaded fuel 95 oct?<BR>,Maz,
Re: Suzuki T500R hole in the piston,Saturday 18-Nov-2000 18:25:57,205.188.193.41 writes,Maz how does the plug look? I'm guessin it jetting or a combination of jetting and an intake leak. Left cylinder is always prone to crank seal leakage if worn. Or intake manifold and air cleaner boots could be leaking. I seriously doubt that 95 oct. fuel alone would cause this. If the plug is bone white and/or there is any blistering on the inulator near the center electrode it was too hot for one reason or another. Steve,Steve Izzo,[email protected]
Re: Suzuki T500R hole in the piston,Sunday 19-Nov-2000 23:03:21,209.197.132.30 writes,Sounds to me that maybe your plugs were a little on the warm side for sustained high speed on a warm day. You didn't mention how far you rode or how hight the temperature was. Steve also mentions an area of concern too. Check that jetting. Did the hole occur under load at cruise<BR>speed or on deceleration ?? Those facts can help solve the problem as well.,H2RICK,
Re: Suzuki T500R hole in the piston,Thursday 23-Nov-2000 14:15:43,194.230.129.78 writes,I have taken apart the cylinders I have found broken the cylinder base gasket + ignition timing + warm + high speed = hole in the piston<BR><BR>Thanks for yours answers <BR><BR>Maurizio,Maz,[email protected]
Re: Re: Suzuki T500R hole in the piston,Saturday 25-Nov-2000 10:41:50,209.197.132.30 writes,Maz: Thanks for the report. It's always the little things that "cascade" together ending up in engine and wallet damage. Be sure to check the crank chamber and rod big end for any shrapnel from the piston when you have the top end apart. Good luck with your repairs.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Re: Suzuki T500R hole in the piston_reparation,Saturday 25-Nov-2000 17:18:24,194.230.233.136 writes,My bike is now in order. I have found: cylinders head pistons of model gt 500 are possible to mount these?<BR>The motor will work? ,MAZ,




suzuki TR500 ignition system,Saturday 18-Nov-2000 15:01:28,212.122.41.83 writes,Search: electronic ignition system racing for suzuki T(r)500 year 1972 bycilinder Femsa or Kröber or....<BR>Please contact me to Belgium <BR>Pierard José<BR>Rue de Humain 16<BR>5580 Rochefort(Belgium)<BR>+3284379313<BR>+32495411486<BR>[email protected]<BR><BR> Thank you,joyce,[email protected]
Re: suzuki TR500 ignition system,Saturday 18-Nov-2000 20:05:15,198.76.106.233 writes,hello <BR><BR>You can get a bolt-on racing ignition from www.pro-flo.com for $399US,Zooke,[email protected]





Bob Weights,Friday 17-Nov-2000 20:03:56,152.163.197.213 writes,Has anyone out there have experience with calculating bob weights when using to balance their crankshaft? I would like to rebuild my crank the right way and not just slap the thing back together anyone can do that! If some of you have experience with these crankshafts please post a message or email me.<BR>Thanks <BR>Greg.,Greg,[email protected]
Re: Bob Weights,Sunday 19-Nov-2000 22:58:18,209.197.132.30 writes,Greg:<BR><BR>I think you're being a little anal retentive here with this crank rebuilding thing. However I would suspect that the bob-weights should be the same weight as the con-rod/piston/rings assembly that they are intended to simulate. Good luck on your quest.,H2RICK,



buffalo tranny leak,Friday 17-Nov-2000 18:18:09,128.101.253.217 writes, Finally got things ready for winter so I could give the buf some time. It loses oil out the hole next to water pump. An earlier posting stated that the hole was a breather that allowed oil to get to the pump bearing. I cleaned the bottom of the engine with degreaser and added a few ounces of oil. Every drop leaks out which to me means that it is getting out from somewhere lower than the position of the pump bearing. I hope this can be resolved without splitting the cases. I had thought of simply plugging the hole but if it's a bearing supply breather that would be dangerous. My second idea is to plumb a small tube barb into the hole and run plastic tubing to a point above the cases and into a catch can. This last thought may not work if there is pressure in the tranny that would pump the oil out. The oil runs out without the engine running. The gs750es that was to be the new home of the buff engine runs too good to swap out.(it leaks too but that's another story). The coolant showed no signs of oil in it and the tranny was empty of oil when I did my test. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Guzzi John,john pierson,[email protected]
Re: buffalo tranny leak,Saturday 18-Nov-2000 10:52:15,209.197.132.30 writes,John:<BR><BR>If memory serves right that hole is there as a "weep hole". It is to let you know if:<BR><BR>a) the mechanical seal on the water pump is failing in which case you get coolant coming out<BR><BR>b) the oil seal on the pump drive shaft has failed in which case you get oil like you are.<BR><BR>There is a very good exploded view of the whole arrangement in the Clymer manual 4th edition 8th printing on page 75. #6 is the "pump driven shaft holder" and that is where both of these seals reside. You cannot/never could buy either of them separately and I don't BELIEVE that the holder<BR>assembly WITH seals is available anymore. If you are running synthetic oil in your tranny you may consider switching to a mineral type of gear oil in a 70W or 75W straight weight.<BR>The syns will wash out any dirt if the former ownner used mineral oil and didn't change it regularly. Then you get leaks. Changing back to a mineral oil will SOMETIMES make the problem go away. If this is not the case and you are already running mineral oil my gut tells me that the water pump will have to come apart and have that upper oil seal/shaft holder cartridge replaced. I will try to get around and talk to my buddy the Water Buffalo King today. He knows all this stuff like you wouldn't believe. When I wrenched these bikes we never had to dismantle/repair a water pump cuz the bikes were all too new. I'll get back to you on this when I have an answer.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: buffalo tranny leak,Monday 20-Nov-2000 09:58:06,129.59.205.114 writes,I have exactly the same problem. I bought my '74 back in 1991. The bottom on the engine was very dirty. I cleaned it up and then noticed the oil leak from the weep hole. Now almost 10 years later and 23K more miles on the clock it still leaks. I have simply kept adding a small quantity of oil to compensate. I recently did put a small tube in the weep hole to redirect the oil away from the bottom of the engine. Unless it gets considerably worse I don't plan to do anything. H2RICK I will anxiously await your report.,Bill,[email protected]
Re: Re: Re: buffalo tranny leak,Monday 20-Nov-2000 14:50:28,24.64.0.9 writes,Sorry for the delay guys but the Buffalo King is working on a BIG project at his day-job and is not as available as he usually is. Will try him again tonight to see if I/we can sort this out.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Re: buffalo tranny leak,Tuesday 21-Nov-2000 00:22:23,209.197.132.30 writes,Gentlemen:<BR><BR>What we have here can be two different problems with two different resolutions. <BR><BR>John's problem is PROBABLY a loose/broken "vent" line inside the engine. As mentioned in my previous post the space between the water seal and the oil seal in the pump driven shaft holder is vented to the outer world to let you know of any internal problems via the weep hole. There is a short hard nylon line (like an oil injection line) from the space between the seals<BR>to the bottom of the cases. A leak showing up with just a little oil left in the tranny means that either the BOTTOM banjo bolt holding the vent line INSIDE the crankcase has come loose OR this internal vent line has a small crack in it. This is not critical except for the problem of general messiness and an oily rear tire which as we all know can cause REAL handling problems.<BR><BR>Bill's problem is PROBABLY a worn oil seal in the pump driven shaft holder. This needs to be fixed immediately. Replacement seals can be obtained from a seal and bearing place. This is a metric dimension seal and nothing fancy. The fun part is getting to it to replace it. Consult your Clymer manual to see how to get that holder out of the engine. Getting the seal out of the holder will become evident once you have the holder in your hand. When you get the new seal give the O.D. a light coating of automotive (not household) grade of RTV silicon sealer and then install as you would any other lip-type seal.<BR><BR>Good luck in your efforts gents.<BR><BR>.<BR>,H2RICK,
Re: buffalo tranny leak,Tuesday 21-Nov-2000 17:31:35,195.92.168.165 writes,First of all regarding parts. Both the complete Water Pump Assy and the Holder are STILL available from Suzuki.<BR>However I think your problem is either a loose banjo bolt in the bottom of the crankcase or the small overflow tube is split.<BR>Whatever the problem you are in for a complete engine strip. DO NOT be tempted to carry out a repair by only removing the bottom crankcase half. There are a few not very obvious parts that prevent the cases being split in this fashion and damage will result.,Clive,[email protected]



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