Suzuki T and GT Bulletin Board Archives
Page 7

Piston Rings,Wednesday 25-Oct-2000 12:54:49, writes,I tried a couple of Suzi dealers to get a set of standard rings - Part #12140-15011 (thanks Ian) to no avail. Dealer states part number has been supersceded by part #12140-15013 which has been discontinued. Any help in tracking down a source for a set of rings would be greatfully appreciated.<BR><BR>Best Regards <BR>Greg<BR>,Greg Groth,[email protected]
Re: Piston Rings,Thursday 26-Oct-2000 10:59:33, writes,Greg <BR> Sam at Vintage parts lists part # 12140-15013 as available in standard and two oversizes. Sam can be found at Good luck with your search.<BR><BR>Bill<BR>,Bill Eickmeier,
Re: Piston Rings,Saturday 28-Oct-2000 13:37:33, writes,<BR> there are plenty of rings available from Kempton Park Motorcycles Joahhnesburg South Arica - TEL + 27119702195 or Fax + 27119750090<BR> from std to 1mm 0/size - both types available <BR>Note : early pistons 68/69 were much wider almost like 4 stroke scraper rings than later pistons which were made common with GT 750<BR><BR>Regards - phil,Philip de Gruchy,bivotar

SAY...WITH ALL THE 550 GUYS NOW ON THIS BOARD..,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 22:16:19, writes,do any of you have the STOCK factory parcel rack<BR>you'd be willing to part with ??? Cash is waiting for the guy with the correct rack. I'm all eyes.<BR>Can't identify the correct rack ?? Email me and I'll give you the identifying features.,H2RICK,
Re: SAY...WITH ALL THE 550 GUYS NOW ON THIS BOARD..,Wednesday 25-Oct-2000 19:11:46, writes,Thanks for your input on my racer project. I would be glad to give you a luggage rack but neither of my bikes came with one. They are 1974 models and both had the grab rail around the back of the seat but no rack. Sorry.,Todd,
Re: Re: SAY...WITH ALL THE 550 GUYS NOW ON THIS BOARD..,Sunday 29-Oct-2000 10:42:18, writes,Todd:<BR><BR>Thanks anyway. Please keep your eyes open at the wreckers in your area. You can't miss it because<BR>it's completely made out of round section tubing<BR> except for the 4 mounting tabs which are flat and has a little "duck tail" type of "flip up"<BR>area at the very back.,H2RICK,

Eric ... Todd ... How did you guys make out last weekend?,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 21:16:11, writes,,Stephen,[email protected]
Re: Eric ... Todd ... How did you guys make out last weekend?,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 22:12:58, writes,Frank and Todd did real well on Saturday with Frank placing first and Todd placing second in Historic Production. My bike went down after the third practice on Saturday morning. It ran fine all practice day and all during the first two practices and then a bad miss in the right cylinder. Since I have been home it seems more fuel oriented than electrical like it appeared.<BR><BR>On Sunday Frank let me ride my other Production bike in Historic Production as they granted him the ok to ride the Production bike in Formula 500 and Formula Vintage.<BR><BR>I placed first on Sunday with Todd coming in a close second.<BR><BR>Frank did place last in the faster classes but Hounded a Formula Yamaha 400 built and riden by Harry Barlow all the way around the track for the whole race passing him several times. This on a mostly street spec T500 weighing over 430lbs. The crowd could not believe it.<BR><BR>Classic Sixties and 350 GP were gridded with us and we were well into of 50% of the 350 GP class and a few of the Classic Sixties as well.<BR><BR>All in all a great weekend.<BR><BR>I also got the "The Best Prepared Bikes at Tech Inspection" award. What an honor. As anyone well knows the preparation of AHRMA race bikes.<BR><BR>It looks like Todd has clinched 2nd overall in Historic Production in AHRMA and I have 4th overall.<BR><BR>We need more people in Historic Production to keep the class alive. They are quite dissapointed with turnout the last two years.<BR> <BR>C'mon people let's go racin'.<BR><BR>The bike I have for sale will be complely gone through and be race ready.,Eric,[email protected]
Re: Re: Lest I forget...,Wednesday 25-Oct-2000 18:24:00, writes,Joey Naval on Sundial's GP T500 placed 4th on Saturday in Formula 500. He again placed 4th on Sunday this time keeping the three fastest Yamahas in the nation within site the whole race after we did some engine tuning changes.<BR><BR>The bike worked flawless and Joey became more accustomed to the changes in the bike I made to make it easier for him to ride. A few more setup changes to the bike and suspension along with a few motor changes and we will be right up there.,Eric,

Cutting piston top to change port open time,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 16:43:48, writes,I must not be asking the right questions because no one ever responds to my posts. But I continue to plod along. I started out with a 74 GT 550 that someone gave me about 8 years ago. It hadn't run for about 5 years before that. I replaced the plugs points air filter battery and gas and oil and it has run ever since. I now have 3 complete engines and another bike I bought for parts and a GT 750 front end. I played around with the parts bike and got it running a couple weeks ago. I know this is not the bike to build as a vintage racer but this is my goal. I'm learning as I go. I have cut one frame down to "fighting weight" and I'm trying to figure out where to brace it. I have tapered roller bearings for the headset and a needle bearing conversion kit for the swingarm. I had cones rolled by AirCone and I used the headers from 2 sets of rusted out stock exhausts to make my expansion chambers.<BR> Sorry to be so long winded. To get to the point does anyone have any ideas or input on making these bikes faster or handle better. I have 5 sets of 28 mm carbs all with the same 95 and 97.5 main jets. I had one set of heads milled 0.020 and the ports polished but not altered. On one set of heads I rasied the exhaust port 2 mm and widened it 2 mm. and polished everything. I couldn't get to the transfers so I took "about 1-2 mm off the piston tops where the transfers open up. I am doing this by trial and error reading all that I can find. I would love to hear from you who have already "been there and done that" so I don't waste my time and money. I have a CBR 900 RR and my wife thinks I'm crazy because I'm spending so much time on the old "race bike". Please any advice would be appreciated. Again sorry this was so long!<BR> Todd ,Todd,
Re: Cutting piston top to change port open time,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 17:48:35, writes, 20 years ago I retired from racing a modified rd400(poor man's tz). The thing that I remember most was initially building what turned out to be a grenade motor and slowly working my way through many seizures back towards stock. I ended up with a reliable mildly ported bike that would go approximately 130mph with full fairing. I had pipes big reeds stock carbs &cc'd heads. The porting was per an old article in 'Street Bike' magazine called 'YamaScreamer' which gave port dimensions for all models 125-400cc. It sounds like you are going about your project in a very workmanlike manner. Just be careful and get your setup right before you go into battle(seizures on the first lap are very disappointing and costly even if you don't crash. This winter I'm swapping a buffalo engine into an '83 gs750es chassis so I can have a two stroke apex straffer in my old age. Can you give me the contact info for Aircone being as I will have to fab my own pipes for this beastie. Just remember you must have very big pilot jets to avoid seizing when you slam the throttle shut at full song. Electronic ignition is a must to avoid dancing points at redline. Make the bike fit your body so you have maximum control and body shifting ability. Always ride your own race and don't get lured into chasing a superior rider and or machine and ending up on the out side of your own envelope of capabilities. Enough of this odl man's ramblings its supper time. Keep in touch. Guzzi John,john pierson,[email protected]
Re: Cutting piston top to change port open time,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 17:54:26, writes,If you serious about racing the 550 you better get the cylinders ported from a a bike shop.In this case you better send everything to Erick.<BR>Reading books and gathering infos about porting and then doing your own porting is kind of risky.<BR>I personally never seen a 550 on the race track.Is a heavy bike.Just the motor weights a ton in compare to an H1 500 but you will need alo dough to make the bike competitive?Good Luck<BR>,Tom,
Re: Re: Cutting piston top to change port open time,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 21:28:20, writes,Todd:<BR><BR>My vote would have been to get the chassis and running gear sorted out FIRST with the stock porting etc and see how fast you can go that way. When you feel you can outride/outhandle what the engine can do in stock trim THEN start on the engine. By that time you will be familiar enough with the handling that you will be able to<BR>know exactly what the bike will do under any combination of road and bike attitude.<BR>For chassis/running gear stuff this would be my order of preference to sort out things:<BR><BR>1) tires<BR>2) rear shocks<BR>3) front forks (oil weight spring stiffness valving)<BR>4) swingarm bushings<BR>5) frame bracing (if required at this point)<BR><BR>There's a lot of iron in that Suzi frame. It's not a flexy flyer like the H1 so it MAY not require bracing. It is absolutely amazing what good tires and shocks/forks can do to make that<BR>"hinge in the middle" feeling disappear. Usually<BR>only a guy who has the skills of a serious racer can tell if a given frame need bracing or not.<BR>Maybe you're one of those guys...maybe not. Try the easy things first...then the exotic stuff.<BR>Easy things USUALLY give an instantly noticeable payoff and can be done by most anyone.<BR>For what it's worth.....,H2RICK,
Re: Cutting piston top to change port open time,Thursday 26-Oct-2000 07:20:55, writes,some good advice there from the other guys...especially about setting the bike up for the track and then seeing if you really want any extra poke. Save the pipes and porting until after you have sorted out the handling. take all the extraneous crap off the frame and junk most of the tinware. Eventually getting rid of the pipes will save heaps of weight. The Suzi may not be faster but it sure will be a lot more reliable than the Kwacka and rarer.<BR>,muzza,

crank rebuilding,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 13:33:18, writes,Hello everyone <BR>I am currently building up my T500 crank. Has anyone balanced the rods before by holding them in a horizontal position by passing a pivot through the big end or small end journal and weighing the other end?<BR><BR>I am also planning on pressing my crank together without the rods or bearings and then dynamically balancing in a machine. Can anyone see problems with doing the balancing this way??<BR><BR>Any help on this subject would be greatly appreciated.<BR>,Greg,[email protected]
Re: crank rebuilding,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 13:51:23, writes,Greg:<BR><BR>TYPICALLY cranks are balanced with the rods installed. That way different rod weights are catered for. It's less work intensive that way too. I can't imagine why you would want to make more work for yourself by assembling then disassembling and then reassembling the crank.<BR>Am I missing something ???,H2RICK,
Re: Re: crank rebuilding,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 15:39:41, writes,Well I am not sure how you could balance a crank with rods installed on a dynamic balancing machine. The machine I was planning on using is for any style of rotor or shafts. This machine is used in balancing high precision spindle shafts. I figured it would work fine. If install the rods and bearings I would assume the machine spins the crank up to speed the rods are going to swing out as if both were TDC. I guess as long as the rods don't change phase or angle of rotation the balancing masses should equalize? Any comments?,Greg,
Re: Re: Re: crank rebuilding,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 21:35:46, writes,Nope wrong balancing machine. Crank balancing machines are built to work with the rods on the crank. The machine you are talking about is for<BR>turbine rotors and electric motor rotors and that kind of solid mass stuff spindles included.<BR>Crank balancers have precisely matched weights to take the place of the pistons so that you get the same action as you would in an engine. A buddy of mine works at a place that has one and he explained it all to me but the physics was pretty exotic stuff for me. I got the main ideas<BR>though. If I were you I'd look into this a little more before doing anything rash. Good luck on this project.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Re: Re: crank rebuilding,Wednesday 25-Oct-2000 15:24:52, writes,Rick you are right. I need what they call "bob weights". If anyone out there knows anything about balancing a T500 crank or has traveled down this road personally please post a message. I have spoke with a rep that supports the balancing machine I am planning on using and he said these bob weights are sold as kits for a particular engine crank. I know there is got to be someone out there with the information I need please help. Thanks Greg,Greg,[email protected]

Gt550 intake,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 09:29:17, writes,I have been reading along with all of you about the problems associated with opting for 3 cone filters on a gt550. I have had similar experience. What I want to know is if anyone out there has actually done it what size jets main and pilot they had to put in and how successful they were. At this point with several hundred $$ invested in my motor i certainly dont want to burn up my top end. Yet I simply cannot look at the stock airbox any longer. Any help would be appreciated.<BR>,woody,
Re: Gt550 intake,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 18:00:25, writes,Do not get rid of the stock air box.Single filter?Bike won't run any better or any faster...worse yes.You best bet is to find a thinner foam to replace the tick stock one.Motor will breath better without the problems you will get with single filters.<BR>PS: even the Superbikes run the stock airbox.True,Tom,

TR 500 SUZUKI AND BARTON TR750 FOR SALE,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 08:51:16, writes,1969 TR 500 SUZUKI PARTS FOR SALE AS A JOB LOT. <BR><BR>NEW NOS PARTS <BR><BR>1x Tachometer ratio 1: 3.22 <BR>2 x Ignition coils for 69 magnetos Ignition. <BR>1 x TR500 clutch including inner and outer baskets needle roller bearings springs and plates. (Outer basket includes primary gear.) <BR>2 x TR 500 cylinder base gaskets. <BR>2 x TR500 copper head gaskets 0.3 mm. <BR>2 x Clutch cover gaskets. <BR><BR>2 x TR500 LH pistons STD. <BR>2 x TR 500 RH pistons STD. <BR>11 x TR 500 piston rings. <BR>8 x small end circlips. <BR><BR>3 x 1st driven gear. <BR>1 x 4th driven gear. <BR>2 x 5th drive gear. <BR>2 x 5th driven gear. <BR>1 x oil pump tacho drive shaft. <BR>2 x oil baffle plates. <BR><BR>USED PARTS applicable to 1969 TR 500 SUZUKI. <BR><BR>2 x Krober ignition systems complete - slight stator damage and broken wires - repairable easily. <BR>1 x 1969 TR500 fairing in good condition. <BR>2 x Cerani rear shocks - need rubbers for end eyes. <BR>4 x Mikuni sand-cast carbs (very slight bel mouth damage on two- easily repairable. <BR><BR>NEW PARTS applicable to 1971 TR500 SUZUKI <BR><BR>1 x Ignition outer cover ( 11351 - 15200 ) <BR>2 x Ignition black boxes (L & R) <BR>2 x Ignition coils (L & R) <BR><BR>ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE OFFERED AS A JOB LOT ONE ONLY AND ARE NOT SEPARABLE. <BR><BR>PRICE $ 2350.00 00 USD plus shipping. <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR><BR>FURTHER PARTS. <BR><BR>Krober 3 cylinder ignition for GT / TR750 complete $900.00 Aus plus shipping. <BR>Krober 2 or 4-cylinder ignition near new complete with stator. $900 Aus plus shipping. <BR><BR>BRAKE CABLES FOR CERIANI OR FONTANA DRUM BRAKES. <BR><BR>3 x TR500 rear brake cables L & R brake pedal. <BR>2 x TR500 rear brake cables RH brake pedal. <BR>3 X TR500 Front brake cables shorter RH.? <BR>1 X TR 500 Front brake cable longer LH.? <BR><BR>$22.00 each or $165.00 USD the lot plus shipping. <BR><BR>TR 500 Seat new one with the hump back $80.00 USD plus shipping. <BR><BR>TOTAL AS A JOB LOT INCLUDING JOB LOT ONE. $3500.00 USD. plus shipping <BR><BR>RACE BIKES FOR SALE <BR><BR>1974 TR 500 SUZUKI Ex Pat Hennan. Swan Series Australia. In excellent running condition.<BR> $9 000.00 USD. Including some spares plus remainder as extra. Plus crate and freight. <BR> <BR><BR>CLASSIC ROAD RACE BIKE FOR SALE <BR><BR>BARTON SEELEY TR750. True Collectors delight. <BR><BR>As one of two options. <BR><BR>1.BARTON SEELEY TR750. As is no fairing. GT race engine has water leak to gear box. Water leaked stopped it racing. Barton engine in good<BR>condition but unsorted needs overhaul. Good spares kit. Needs some tidy up but over all bike in very good condition. Fitted with Krober ignition.<BR>Alloy tank. Lockheed brakes etc. $8 500 US$. plus freight. <BR> <BR><BR>2. BARTON SEELEY TR 750. Fully sorted with new fairing and Barton engine installed. GT750 spare race engine overhauled and good spares kit. <BR>Fully restored and nothing to spend. Well sorted and ready to race. $12 500 US$ plus freight. <BR><BR>Situated Australia. <BR><BR>Call. 61 3 94381652. or email [email protected] <BR><BR>Open to serious offers on all of the above.,Ivor,[email protected]

gt 550 cylinders/pistons,Monday 23-Oct-2000 16:59:23, writes,recently i`ve bought a gt 550 in pretty good shape. the former owner told me there had been problems with the cylinders (piston seizure) so he had got them rebored (1mm+) and recoated with nicasil (it`s a m- model from early 75).<BR>so the engine actually is a mixture of late-type coated cylinders and early-type oversize pistons. i`m scared if those piston rings (thought for working in a cast-type cylinder) will match with the coated cylinder....<BR>anyone has some idea or experience?<BR><BR>thanks chris,chris,[email protected]
Re: gt 550 cylinders/pistons,Monday 23-Oct-2000 18:33:47, writes,Cylinder to piston clearance is the problem.Hopefully who did the plating knows what he was doing.The only way to find out is to...just ride the bike.Good Luck,John,
Re: gt 550 cylinders/pistons,Tuesday 16-Jan-2001 19:42:42, writes,I've just bought a 1976 GT550 with nicasil coated cylinders I've heard you MUST have nicasil specific piston rings.,jmc,[email protected]

550 spark,Monday 23-Oct-2000 11:03:46, writes,I am having a heck of a time trying to find the cause of weak spark. I have run all the tests on the plugs coils points and still have a little tiny blue spark. Any of you out there have any trouble shooting experience with the GT550? ,midwest,
Re: 550 spark,Monday 23-Oct-2000 18:28:27, writes,Low battery voltage and badly gapped points will do just that.,John,
Re: 550 spark,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 22:12:49, writes,"Tiny" is a relative term. I know...I can't see the size of the spark to tell whether it's good or bad BUT is good...yellow is bad. <BR>Is the engine doing anything weird to cause you to think the spark is not right ?? I/we need symptoms of your trouble to diagnose first. If the engine starts OK and idles OK when warm and pulls under load OK then DON'T screw with the ignition because you THINK you should. Are the plugs new and gapped properly ?? What kind...what heat range ?? In Suzis my best performance has ALWAYS been with NGKs. A 550 depending on the year takes either a B7ES or a B8ES. Lower numbers mean hotter plugs. If you've got the bucks and can find them go for the NGK Platinum plugs. A rare metal plug will give you<BR>a spark when a conventional iron plug will misfire. When you're resurrecting an old bike <BR>fresh gas fresh motorcycle injector oil (not weed whacker or outboard injector oil) and new plugs are the first things you put in. Don't try to go the el cheapo route cuz that can cause all kinds of heartburn later on.<BR>Trust me on this. <BR>Yeah...I know...your Uncle John ran Splitfire plugs in his Chevy V8 for 15 years and 8 gazillion miles and it was still getting 30 miles to the gallon when he sold it. I've heard a million of those stories before.<BR>Bikes especially 2 strokes are a lot harder on plugs than any massive water cooled iron block engine will ever be unless it's a super high performance engine.<BR>Plug heat ranges are a very complex subject and the best bet is to start with what the factory put in originally....THEN once everything is running great the experiments can begin.<BR>'Nuff said.,H2RICK,
t 500 wiring diagram,Monday 23-Oct-2000 10:54:04, writes,does any one have wiring diagram for a 70 t500 mk11 that they could email me it will be appreciated,Justin ,[email protected]

T500 carbs,Monday 23-Oct-2000 09:03:22, writes,Regarding the design of T500 carbs - as I understand it all T500s and GT500s used the same Mikuni carbs: number VM32SC.<BR>Did this model of carb undergo any design modifications during it's production run? The reason I am asking is that the carbs on my T500K differ from the VM32SC diagram offered in my Chilton manual. On my carbs the throttle cable adjuster screws fit down into the direct center of the mixing caps. The diagram I have for model VM32SC shows the throttle cable attachment offset (not centered) on the mixing cap. There are also some internal differences.<BR>Also my Chilton manual is very sparse in carb dissasembly instructions. Am I correct in assuming that after unscrewing the mixing cap one simply pulls the two pieces apart and the cap spring throttle valve and needle remain hanging from the throttle cable? Mine are all gummed and stuck together so this separtion might require some "coaxing". <BR>Thanks so much. ,Matt,[email protected]
Re: T500 carbs,Monday 23-Oct-2000 12:43:46, writes,I checked and my carbs are constructed the same as the ones in Murray Bernard's GT500 Parts Book Online:<BR>So perhaps it is my Chilton manual that is incorrect.,Matt,
Thanks Muzza and H2RICK I appreciate...,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 09:24:08, writes,your help. Sorry for my impatience but I was deep in the motorcycle fever and therefore not entirely myself. I also discovered that the previous owner had crudely fashioned an "air filter" by wrapping the stock metal filter frame with what looks like glass fiber house insulation tied on with fishing line. Bleah.,Matt,
C'mon I know one of you guys knows this so please...,Monday 23-Oct-2000 19:29:53, writes,My question is simply: once you unscrew the mixing cap how do you separate the carb main unit from the throttle cable?<BR>I'm not stupid just ignorant (and lacking a specific shop manual). The only carb I ever dissasembled was from a 82 Honda CM400E and I don't remember having any trouble. The carbs on my T500 are gummed up and I just don't want to yank without some advice. Thanks for being so helpful in the past H2Rick Greg and others...,Matt,
Re: C'mon I know one of you guys knows this so please...,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 07:35:36, writes,Yeah your carbs are OK have a look at the picture on my website of the GT500 carbs GT500 parts book.<BR><BR>,muzza,[email protected]
Re: Re: C'mon I know one of you guys knows this so please...,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 08:55:02, writes,Matt:<BR><BR>You're correct in your assumptions and methodology. If the slide does not want to come out of the carb body easily when you remove the cap spray carb cleaner all around its outer<BR>diameter between the slide and the carb body. You can also spray cleaner in the inlet and outlet throats of the carb body. That should loosen things up nicely.<BR>I wasn't ignoring this board but my wife had the computer tied up last night and I was giving my truck its fall tuneup as well. Gotta keep the equipment in top shape. Nothing worse than being stranded with the temperature below 0 deg F or lower.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Re: C'mon I know one of you guys knows this so please...,Wednesday 25-Oct-2000 08:39:32, writes,Yes that worked. The carbs slid apart quite nicely after a good spraying. Thanks.,Matt,
Re: T500 carbs,Wednesday 25-Oct-2000 14:00:49, writes,SURGEON GENERAL'S WARNING !! Reading this may cause extreme drowsiness so readers are cautioned blah blah blah you know the rest....<BR><BR>Matt:<BR><BR>Those carbs with the offset cable and the idle adjuster in the cap were TYPICALLY used on rotary<BR>valve engines because of space problems with the side mounted idle adjusters. The last rotary valve engines produced in any numbers were the mid 70s Kawi (up to 350cc) and Suzuki (up to 100cc) single cylinder dirt bikes of various displacements. The biggest was the Kawi F11 Bighorn 350cc. There was a class for Bighorn-engined road racers !! at one time and may still be for all I know. Rotary engines were quite popular at one time with Kawi and Bridgestone being the strongest adherents both at one time producing 350cc twins. Both bikes were quite high performance for their day the Kawi rated at 42 HP and the Bridgestone at about<BR>38 or 40 HP.<BR>Piston port 2 stroke engines typically use Mikunis with side mount idle adjusters like what you have right now.,H2RICK,

Suzuki GT550K 1972,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 15:12:01, writes,Can anyone help with my restoration of my GT550K 1972 vintage. I have the wrong seat and brake caliper which must both be from a later model. Has anyone got an early caliper( designed for the brake system with the metal pipe rather than flexible hose version ) and / or an early seat with metal trim. I have my later versions for sale or swop. I also have some GT550 AND 750 parts for sale including a new right hand exhaust for an L model and a new tank badge for a J K or L ,Bob Harris,[email protected]
Re: Suzuki GT550K 1972,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 15:45:04, writes,Bob:<BR><BR>What aprts exactly do you have for which bikes that are willing to sell. Email me with a complete list and your location so I can get an idea of freight costs.<BR><BR>Thanks<BR>H2RICK<BR><BR>PS: your K model is a 1973 model not a 1972. Any Suzis or most bikes for that matter made after the 7th month are considered to be the next model year i.e. say your build date on the steering head label is 8/72. This makes it an early production 1973 or "K" model.,H2RICK,[email protected]
That won't be a '72 if it has a disk brake - the '72 had the 4ls drum.,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 22:53:37, writes,,Stephen,[email protected]
Re: That won't be a '72 if it has a disk brake - the '72 had the 4ls drum.,Monday 23-Oct-2000 05:49:29, writes,Wrong.My 550 is a 1972 also and has a front disk brake.,Ted,
Re: Re: That won't be a '72 if it has a disk brake - the '72 had the 4ls drum.,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 08:59:26, writes,Ted:<BR><BR>If you look carefully at your build sticker on the steering head you will see that your build date will be after 7/72 (if the bike has not had the front end of a later bike grafted onto it).<BR>Anything made after 7/72 is a 1973 or "K" model.<BR>The "K" models were the first to have disk brakes in the 380 550 and Buffaloes.,H2RICK,
ignition problems,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 14:07:58, writes,I set my timing with a dial indicator. Now I am getting no spark except for the center. I checked the points I wish I could get rid of them set them at .014. Could it be bad coils were my problem from the start. How do I test them and if they are gone what can I replace them with Aftermarket??? If it is not the coils what could be the problem?<BR><BR>AtlanticPirate,,

Still Searching: T-500 Dragracer,Saturday 21-Oct-2000 22:43:26, writes,I'm a little further on in my search of a local T-500 dragracer. I spoke to a guy who saw the bike about a year ago stored in this barn. He seemed to think I could pick it up for about 300 bucks. According to him the bike has Tomaselli clip-ons 40mm carbs aftermarket wheels (akront maybe?) wheelie bars! and I think he said "Ocelot" expansion chambers? Does that sound familiar to anybody? I've never heard of them and I'm curious if anyone knows anything about them. It's about 60 mile trip to the alleged barn where the alleged motorcycle is and as soon as I get a chance I'll head out there and let you all know more.<BR> Lastly a question for the T-500 racers out there: do you continue to run your oil injection pumps or go with just pre-mix? I know that you have to drill some passages to feed the main bearings if you do this. I'd rather run the injection pump but I'm wondering if this is smart for a racing application. Any ideas? Thanks.,Kris,
Re: Still Searching: T-500 Dragracer,Saturday 21-Oct-2000 23:56:18, writes,Running the oil injection is fine and realy the best way to go for long term reliablity. The oil pump should be wired in place to provide no less than one third capacity when the throttle is backed off for road racing. This is a simple matter of getting a thick piece of wire and bending a hook on each end and hooking it into the back of the pump and then hooking it into the cable arm to stop it from closing completely. It leaves the cable free to open up with revs but ti stops it from closing off completely.<BR><BR> ,Muzza,[email protected]
Re: Still Searching: T-500 Dragracer,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 10:45:54, writes,ocelot was I believe a suzuki specialist that catered to sports car racers that used buffalo engines in their small displacement classes. A late friend of mine used their equipment or specs(I'm not sure which)with great success at Brainerd in the 70s&80s. Guzzi John,john pierson,[email protected]
Re: Re: Still Searching: T-500 Dragracer,Monday 23-Oct-2000 16:46:33, writes,You can see an Ocelot here...<BR><BR><BR>135bhp Suzuki 850cc. Womder if they have some parts still available? Oversize pistons?,muzza,

72 GT550 air cleaner mods - any ideas ?,Saturday 21-Oct-2000 21:58:35, writes,I pulled apart my air cleaner assembly only to find that there is no element in there! I can only imagine how much damage has been done to the motor.<BR><BR>Since my 'boggling' findings I have been curious to know if anyone else has a better method of allowing the engine to breath. Can I strap independent foam air cleaners to the back of each of the three carbs? Does the bike need a specific regulation on the flow of air into the cylinders? Must I keep that huge black box - that is soo frustraing to mount onto the back of the carbs - mounted under my gas tank?<BR><BR>Again any ideas or advice is appreciated. Thanks!,JD,[email protected]
Re: 72 GT550 air cleaner mods - any ideas ?,Saturday 21-Oct-2000 23:01:58, writes,Nope you can deep-six the airbox and boot and mount K & N individual filters on each carb. You will probably have to rejet if you live/ride anywhere below about 2000 feet above sea level though. If you don't want to rejet you can use the old cheapo trick of wrapping duct tape around <BR>part of each filter to restrict your air intake volume but you will still have to do plug checks to get the tape just right just as you would if you rejetted. It's your call.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: 72 GT550 air cleaner mods - any ideas ?,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 09:12:21, writes,Since my 74 GT 550 didn't come with the air filters (dissentegrated) I went to the individual filter/cyl setup.<BR><BR>I didn't know anything of this "rejetting" stuff.<BR>I live at 900 feet with no hills. What will happen if I don't re-jett? Thanks.,Gregp,
Re: Re: Re: 72 GT550 air cleaner mods - any ideas ?,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 12:34:39, writes,SURGEON GENERAL'S BOREDOM WARNING !!!<BR><BR>Gregp:<BR><BR>If you are at 900 feet you will probably have to rejet because the K & N's are much less restrictive to airflow than the stock airbox/filter setup.<BR>How it works is the carbs are jetted to pass as much fuel as required for the amount of air available through the STOCK airbox/filter setup.<BR>Since the K & N's are MUCH LESS restrictive to air flow than the stock setup you NOW get much more air into the engine. With the amount of fuel available being fixed by the main jet and<BR>pilot jet sizes (same for EITHER inlet air system) and the amount of air available suddenly INCREASING due to lessened restriction in the filter arrangement you get a leaner fuel/air mixture.<BR>This is VERY BAD for pistons/rings (seizure holed pistons etc). Two strokes if you didn't already know are VERY sensitive to mixture changes on either side of the ideal stoichiometric air/fuel ratio which is about 14:1<BR>(14 volumes of air to 1 volume of fuel). <BR>On the rich side (less air-same fuel) you get sluggish performance poor fuel economy fouled plugs blah blah but not USUALLY any engine damage because the bike won't run long enough to hurt itself before a plug fouls.<BR>On the lean side (more air-same fuel) you get zippy performance FOR A WHILE until you hole or seize a piston (or pistons). Not enough gasoline to carry the injection oil to the top end to lubricate things properly. <BR>This is a very complex subject and I'm sure Eric<BR>and others would be able to expand on what I have written here but this is the bare bones of what<BR>can happen. Plug readings are a must when changing anything to do with fuel/air ratios on a two stroke. Yes yes...I know it's time consuming but it's easier/cheaper than replacing your top end....especially on bikes that are now 23 years old (at least) and for which spare parts are getting scarcer and scarcer. Take the time to do <BR>it right and you will be rewarded with a properly running bike that will be RELIABLE. (However the intake noise may deafen you...earplugs recommended for any ride longer than about 15 minutes LOLOLOLOL),H2RICK,
Re: K & N individual filters ?,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 12:23:01, writes,H2RICK you have the answers for everything! I love it.<BR><BR>One question though where can I pick-up/order one of these K & N or other type of individual filters? Is this a common item for a shop to carry? Do I need to take anything (2 stroke specific) into consideration when deciding on a model for my bike? (size breathability microns etc) <BR><BR>Thanks for the information and I am dropping the cleaner box into the Marianus Trench as I type this message!,JD,[email protected]
JD: thanks for the kind words however...,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 12:50:49, writes,Eric at Sundial REALLY knows everything. Since he is probably off racing somewhere this weekend I wouldn't like you guys to burn up your engines while he's away hence the posts. Also I've got a real soft spot for 2 strokes. I was a 4 stroke-only guy UNTIL I started wrenching/riding Suzuki 2 strokes for a couple of dealers in the early-mid 70's (yes I AM that old). I then realized that both types have their virtues and vices but size for size if you've got the "need for speed" and want that "acceleration rush" nothing beats a 2 stroke....and don't get me started on dirt biking although I understand the later 4 stroke dirt bikes have overcome a lot of their earlier deficiencies with modern technology.<BR>I've put a longer post on here about this subject with the usual Surgeon General's warning against boredom for guys that already know this stuff. ALL 2 stroke newbies should read it though.<BR>I just might haul the 550 out of the garden shed and go for a ride later if I can get all the slave work done around the old "ranch" today. Nice fall day here in Calgary sunshine and about 50 deg F (+15 deg C) so should be nice for a short jaunt.,H2RICK,

Re: 72 GT550 - Timing tinkered with ...,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 21:34:41, writes,Well I finally decided to take a stab at setting the timing on my Suzuki. Unfortunately my multimeter proved to be of no use in measuring continuity on the points! <BR><BR>So I found TDB (Top Dead Center) manually turned the engine back to drop the left piston about 1/2 inch then I slowly turned the engine in its forward position until the points (appeared to) open. This is how I set the timing on all three cylinders. After the 'attempt' I tightened all of the screws and found that the screw holding the left cylinder points to the rotatable plate is nearly 100% stripped! Oh I also set the gap on the points and were they ever off!<BR><BR>Upon completion the bike ran MUCH better however there is still a 'bucking' problem when trying to downshift or roll along in a gear without trying to accelerate. A short ride demonstrated that the bucking is still in her.<BR><BR>I hope to have a set of three individual air cleaners by next weekend. First I have to find a set. Also I am most probably going to take the bike in to have the timing set unless someone on this board can tell me how to test continuity on the points! The Clymer manual gives little or no guidance in that area!<BR><BR>Still plodding along (and will) till she either runs like I used to hear about or siezes on me for good <BR>-JD,JD,
Re: Re: 72 GT550 - Timing tinkered with ...,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 23:24:10, writes,JD:<BR><BR>Your multimeter needs alligator clips on both<BR>leads. Key must be OFF. Select LOWEST available<BR>range on meter. If meter is autoranging type manually select lowest range available. Hook negative lead to a GOOD ground on the ENGINE cases NOT the frame. Hook postive lead to the little bolt that is protruding from the tension spring retaining post. The bolt holds the spring<BR>and insulator arrangement in place but has electrical contact through to the movable side of the points. Make sure that the positive lead is<BR>touching ONLY the little bolt and NOTHING else.<BR>Roll engine over with wrench on bolt at end of points cam (works much easier if plugs are out).<BR>Watch meter to see when points are opening and closing. Compare where points open with little<BR>3 bladed "propellor" you can see through oval shaped window in main ignition component mounting plate (it's on the bottom if I remember correctly). Each propellor blade is marked L or C or R and you can then correlate this to which set of points you're working on. TIME THE FIXED SET OF POINTS FIRST (LEFT CYLINDER). Then go on to the Centre and then the Right side. Make sure your points gaps are set FIRST before attempting to set timing though. They should be at 014". <BR>Set them with a blade-type feeler gauge. Sears sells a nice little set with wire-type gauges for spark plugs and blade-type gauges for points all in one neat little metal holder. This whole procedure will get you a good enough setting to run close to max accuracy. You can get into dial gauge setting of timing later. Make sure points contact faces are clean by running a non-shiny piece of heavy paper between them when they are closed (off the cam lobe). EVERYONE has on old clean business card from that last insurance salesman who visited you. LOLOLOL<BR>DO NOT/NOT/NOT USE POINTS FILE ON THESE POINTS AS METAL COATING ON CONTACT FACES IS ABOUT 3 MOLECULES THICK AND EASILY RUINED. Business card only please. Keep us posted on this. Maybe I should start charging for fixing these things long distance eh ?? LOLOLOLOLOL,H2RICK,
H2RICK: Where do I send the check or money order ( :,Wednesday 25-Oct-2000 17:41:22, writes,,JD,[email protected]
74 GT 550 Timing question,Saturday 21-Oct-2000 21:31:55, writes,I have the ignition timing set to the factory settings. Can I increase performance by either advancing or retarding the timing? If so which direction? Thanks. This will save me some time experimenting.<BR>-gregp,Gregp,
Re: 74 GT 550 Timing question,Saturday 21-Oct-2000 23:58:49, writes,I would suggest not playing around with the timing except for racing purposes. It is just too easy to blow holes in pistons when you shift the timing too far out.<BR>,Muzza,
Re: Re: 74 GT 550 Timing question,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 12:53:05, writes,I think Muzza meant to add too far out in the "advanced" direction. This will give the results<BR>that he describes....A VERY BAD THING. LOLOLOL,H2RICK,

Rejetting needed after fitting chambers ?,Saturday 21-Oct-2000 17:38:24, writes,Hi all <BR><BR>today I fitted my new pride a set of chambers on my GT500.<BR>The Chambers are presumably designed for a GT750 but the dimensions don't look very strange to me. And since the GT750 has the same bore stroke and port outlet as the 500 I can imagine they might work quite well on my GT500.<BR>The pipes were a commercial product over here in Holland named Bullet pipes. Length is near the length described in the 500 pages with a maximum diameter of about 95 millimeter so maybe a little thin. I'll measure the exact sizes tomorrow.<BR><BR>When I took my Blackie for a ride I was rather disappointed. Stock pipes seem to pull a lot stronger than these pipes I got the strong feel as if the engine was cut off somewhere. <BR><BR>So the question is is the engine running lean or are the chambers not suited for the engine.<BR>What jet size can I expect to use with chamber ?<BR>Ports are standard but the carbs are fitted with K&N filters.<BR><BR>I expected I could use the same size of jets but attain a better filling of the combustion chamber after fitting chambers.<BR><BR>Good night <BR><BR>Gijs,Gijs,[email protected]
Re: Rejetting needed after fitting chambers ?,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 00:06:48, writes,Really ahrd to tell without measuring the pipes and putting the measurements through a lot of maths.<BR><BR>Expansion chambers are very complex and are mated to port dimensions inlet and outlet lengths etc.<BR><BR>Standard pipes are pretty good actually though heavy because of silencing issues.<BR><BR>On racing 500s for example the power comes on strong with chambers but really pulls hard at higher revs. Funnily enough bikes with chambers sometimes don't rev as high as with road pipes on becuase the power band has been changed and the power surge shifted to suit racing needs.,Muzza,
Re: Re: Rejetting needed after fitting chambers ?,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 12:56:55, writes,Gijs:<BR><BR>You will PROBABLY need to rejet with K & N's and chambers. I would guess that you're running lean<BR>and thus "lack of pull". Check plugs before riding any further and save your top end from seizure. Check my posts further UP this page for the 550 guys.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Re: Rejetting needed after fitting chambers ?,Monday 23-Oct-2000 04:04:07, writes,Rick <BR><BR>do you have any clue about the aproriate size needed ? When I installed the K&N filters the shop advised me to go 4 sizes up on the main jets which was size 107 coming from the standard 97.5 If I continue that way and end up using size 200 or whatever it takes I will end up with a lot of wasted jets me thinks. <BR>Otherwise I will have to find a set of drills but even then life would be a lot easier if someone could give me a starting point.<BR><BR>Have fun <BR>Gijs<BR>,Gijs,
Re: Re: Re: Re: Rejetting needed after fitting chambers ?,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 21:49:46, writes,A 100 main jet will flow about 7% - 10% MORE fuel than a 95 main. Thus 4 sizes larger will be about<BR>28% to 40% depending on carb size. The guys at the shop are trying to help you to NOT seize your engine. Their recommendation MIGHT be a good place to start BUT you will have to do some part throttle running and then CHECK THE PLUGS for indications of rich or lean mixture. Once you've got that sorted out THEN start doing the larger throttle opening plug checks. Yes I know it's<BR>time consuming BUT that's they way you've got to do it. There is NO magic formula because every bike and rider combination is different AS WELL<BR>AS different fuels different injector oils different atmospheric pressure where you ride etc etc. That's the way racers do it EXCEPT the factory teams with US$ 200 000 a year expert tuners on their team. Those guys know this tuff like you know how to get to work in the morning.<BR>They don't even have to think about it they just<BR>KNOW it from years and years of experience.,H2RICK,
Source for T500 piston rings?,Saturday 21-Oct-2000 01:13:49, writes,Anyone know of a source for piston rings for the T500?

Completing a complete teardown of a junkyard engine. Engine had no plugs in it when I picked it up and I just wanted to make sure everything was OK. Also wanted to ensure the oil capacity was correct. I also decided to replace all of the seals as the ones on the engine I am guessing are 25 years old. Since I'm going through all the trouble I thought I'd throw a set of rings on it while it's torn down. Local Suzi dealer said that these parts have been discontinued and no longer available (even though they still sell the pistons). Engine is a '74 and does not appear to need to be rebored. Pistons are notched - not windowed. Any help gratefully appreciated.,Greg Groth,[email protected]
Re: Source for T500 piston rings?,Saturday 21-Oct-2000 02:03:31, writes,you can still get Suzuki rings from Suzuki if you still cannot find any try in london uk. ,Ian,
Re: Re: Source for T500 piston rings?,Saturday 21-Oct-2000 20:08:17, writes,Anyone have the correct part number? The numbers the counter guy ame up with showed discontinued. Thanks again for the help.<BR>,Greg Groth,[email protected]
Re: Source for T500 piston rings?,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 19:19:24, writes,in my parts book numbers are:<BR>std 12140-15011<BR>os:0.5 12140-15700<BR>os:1.0 12140-15710<BR>as far as I'm aware they are still valid they are in the U.K. good luck.,Ian,

Was : Dutch GT500 help needed,Friday 20-Oct-2000 15:37:09, writes,Hi all <BR><BR>After I posted my first GT500 questions a while ago the times have changed a little.<BR><BR>"GT500 is dead long live the GT500"<BR><BR>To be a little more clear:<BR><BR>after I posted my first message I started working on an other GT that I had bought mainly for the spare parts. It had not run for about four years so I expected leaking oil seals. <BR>But to my big surprise it started right up after I cleaned the carbs ! With big clouds of smoke who dissapeared when the engine was a little warmer. <BR>Down went my pride: over a year of wrenching beaten by an old bike just returned from the haystack. So I have been cursing at myself for a while and in the end decided to dump my old bike. After all the best bike belongs on the road.<BR><BR>The new bike I call him Blackie for the moment behaves like a true T500 should according to the storys: reliable and big fun. It is a real cafe racer just as I wanted: clipons after market gas tank and soloseat the works.<BR>On the other hand the engine still runs very smooth I don't think it is ported or anything. So in come the cylinders from my old bike who is renamed Donor. I had ported these already and it pulled like a rocket -once it was running.<BR>And just today I bought a set of chambers although I am not sure how good they are. I think these were designed for the 750 but as the 750 shares the same piston size and crank stroke the dimensions might be quite close to the right dimensions for a 500 chamber. Or am I guessing really wrong here ? I'll see at least they were worth the try at about 60 us$.<BR>In the end I still want to build my own chambers but I will try it this way first.<BR><BR>Besides this I finally received a tool to measure the spark strength so I were finally able to really measure the ignition in stead of just guessing. A ten dollar tool should have bought it looooong ago ! But then again I never saw this tool for sale.<BR>At last the verdict on my old bike is clear : weak ignition. max. spark length of the old bike is about 4 mm whereas the ignition on my new Blacky pulls sparks of about 15 mm. My Dutch version of the Haynes manual says that a good ignition should pull a spark of at least 10 mm.<BR>Still I cannot understand that this ignition problem still exists since I have changed all parts of the ignition in the time I was working on this bike.<BR><BR>So this weekend I think Donor will lose it's cylinders maybe even it's wheels :-) And Blackie will roar like a real wannabe racer.....<BR><BR><BR>Gijs,Gijs,[email protected]
Re: Was : Dutch GT500 help needed,Saturday 21-Oct-2000 01:28:06, writes,Way to Gijs. But don't give up on Donor. Weak spark is probably something simple....low battery voltage corrosion in the various connections<BR>of the low voltage side of the ignition system <BR>bad high tension plug leads bad caps poor cap to high tension wire connection. Corroded coil ground wire connections. Bad connection through the ignition switch or kill switch.<BR>You Dutch guys live with high humidity and salt air. Those are two real good causes of corrosion and it doesn't take much at EACH connection in the ignition system to cause major problems.<BR>Check it out. Clean ALL the connections including grounds bright and shiny and reassemble with some good anticorrosion grease you can get at an electronics store. 80% of the time it turns out to be a bad ground wire but clean ALL the connections. It's a VERY simple ignition system. Let us know how you make out.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Was : Dutch GT500 help needed,Saturday 21-Oct-2000 17:20:31, writes,Hi Rick <BR><BR>Been there done that will be doing it again tomorrow. Over the time I changed all off the ignition parts at least once with no big result. Cleaned the connections lubricated them with WD40 bridged the wiring inside the wiring harness with new wires from CDI to ignition coils what more is there to try.<BR><BR>But I will try again tomorrow promised. Besides my cafe racing Blackie I bought a GT for my girlfriend. Tried it today and it managed to empty the gearbox within 5 minutes. So we decided to use Donor's engine for her bike fitted with the ignition of her first engine. So tomorrow I will change the parts piece by piece and see if I can find anyting meaningfull.<BR><BR>Goodnight <BR><BR>Gijs,Gijs,[email protected]
Re: Was : Dutch GT500 help needed,Saturday 21-Oct-2000 15:37:24, writes,Hi Gijs <BR>Just a thought on the weak spark I had a similar problem a very weak spark the bike was very hard to start ( a sure sign that something wrong !)It was eventually traced to a duff coil on the electronic ignition stator plate (I forget its proper name) had the coil rewound spark back. no more problem. If you have another stator plate try it in place of the suspect one at least you will have eliminated the stator if you still have the same problem.<BR>good luck and keep us posted.,trev,
Re: Re: Was : Dutch GT500 help needed,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 13:03:07, writes,Those electronic ignitions on the GT500's are a closed book to me BUT most Jap electronic ignitions are similar. You need to get a factory manual which I'm sure has the resistance values for checking such things as trigger coils and the like. Don't throw anything out until you can check it because Suzuki ain't making that stuff any more. Yes it can be rewound as Trev mentions but try to avoid that if possible. Good luck with the Donor.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Re: Was : Dutch GT500 help needed,Monday 23-Oct-2000 04:11:38, writes,Yes I found a factory manual and checked everything I could measure. Resistance of the trigger coils were a little off spec but not shortcutted. And factory specs use a 10% tolerance on the values mine were in this tolerance or very close. Besides that I changed them with other coils with no result. CDI is a bigger bugger there seems to be no real way of measuring them.<BR><BR>But alas I want to stop guessing. If I find the time this week I will swap the ignition on Donor's bike with the ignition of a running GT until I am sure what caused the problem.<BR>And work on my Blackie in the meantime !<BR><BR>Plezier <BR>Gijs<BR><BR>,Gijs,

buffalo carbs-pasta?,Thursday 19-Oct-2000 20:19:37, writes, I got my gs750es chassis donor last sunday so the project begins.
Has anyone got info on carb mods or alternatives that have been used in the past(or present). Also what about contact info for aircone chamber kits? This may seem like a silly sort of swap but thirty some years back I built a '58 plymouth powered by a 341ci '57 desoto hemi that was equal in acceleration to the 325hp 396ci chevelles of 66-67. I've always liked different sort of machines so this oddit fits right in. This is my dream(nightmare)machine sort a cross between an rg500&tz750 in street trim. Any assistance in helping this old racer achieve his somewhat crazy goal will be greatly appreciated. The gs could use things like shocks fork springs and braces if someone has such things lying around. Like the book says it's the coffee that makes us crazy in minnesota. You betcha! Guzzi John,john pierson,[email protected]

72 GT550 Triple Carb Syncronization ?! Help Please !,Wednesday 18-Oct-2000 20:00:27, writes,Hi all <BR><BR>Thank you to all of you who have helped me to get this far along. I have installed the new SRIS tubes and have finally pulled and CLEANED the carbs.<BR><BR>NOW the bike will not run on three cylinders. I don't know what I did wrong. The intake jets were soo dirty when I pulled the carbs that you could not see through the dirt clogging them. Now they are cleaner than I have ever seen them ... and the bike is running as poor as ever - or not running.<BR><BR>I removed the alignment screws on the sided of the carbs to synchronize them by eyeing them as I pulled the throttle to about half open - as described in the manual. Then I set the bleed air screws to 1 1/4 turns open - as described in the manual. Then I tried to set the starter lever cables to be nearly equal. The adjusting barrel is almost maxed out on the left and right card (I think the cables may be very stratched.)<BR><BR>The bike will fire on all three cylinders with the starter lever pulled to 'start.' But when I release the lever the left and right cylinders will not keep firing! If I again pull the starter lever to 'start' they will kick in and fire. Then they quit firing when I release the lever again. Also I must note that I get an intense amount of smoke from the bike and have noticed that more smoke came from the right side exhaust for the past few months while the bike was running well.<BR><BR>Is there something I am missing? Have I overlooked an aspect to tuning the carbs? I am going to try new plugs tomorrow. I have cleaned the plugs (many times) that are in there and tried two different sets of plugs trying to help the situation. The center cylinder fires great but I just cannot get the outside cylinders to fire.<BR><BR>Thank you for reading this. I try to do all of my own maintenance but am about ready to take her to the shop for some work. $ is the issue here. If you are going to ask me about the timing I have not checked it and do not know how to. Any suggestions ideas or creativity is appreciated.<BR><BR>-JD,JD,[email protected]
Re: 72 GT550 Triple Carb Syncronization ?! Help Please !,Thursday 19-Oct-2000 05:45:00, writes,I would if I was you take the no working cylinder carbs off.Check the float level pilots pilots passages fuel flow from the petckok.Then is everything checks ok recheck the timing on the bad cylinders Do you have bad oiled plugs?.Check the oil pump setting while there.Oh...I forgot ...breakers gap.Bike should start right away and run fine.,John,
Re: 72 GT550 Triple Carb Syncronization ?! Help Please !,Thursday 19-Oct-2000 08:24:15, writes,I had the same problem until last weekend with my GT 550. <BR><BR>If you are sure you have all the settings correct (float levels timing etc.) then you might want to try cleaning the carbs again.<BR><BR>I finally got mine to work after the carb's 4th cleaning. The tips I can give you would be to make sure you spray the carb cleaner in both the directions multiple times. Also if the channel you're spraying has into has multiple exits plug one of those up with your finger to get extra pressure to the other one. That's what did the trick for me and my problem. Make sure you post back with your progress.<BR>,Gregp,
Re: Re: 72 GT550 Triple Carb Syncronization ?! Help Please !,Thursday 19-Oct-2000 23:33:27, writes,Did you REMOVE the jets (pilot jet main jet <BR>needle jet) before you started with the carb cleaner ?? Also the idle mix screw/spring unit ??<BR>Did you get that carb cleaner spray tube right into all the little passages ?? When you were finished did you blow every passage out with compressed air ??<BR>Your description of the malady tells me that you are only getting fuel (with enricher/choke OFF)<BR>to the centre cylinder cuz that's the only one running. Ignition sounds OK cuz all 3 WILL fire if #1 & #3 get enough fuel (enricher/choke ON).<BR>Leave the ignition alone for now and solve the carb problem. With engine not running/key off and airbox/boot removed look into inlet side of carbs to check where the slides are sitting at idle. Are they equal height ?? If not make'em<BR>equal. You've got to sort the idle out first then on to more complex stuff. Keep us posted.,H2RICK,
More work completed ... more work still needed !,Saturday 21-Oct-2000 21:45:08, writes,I have since removed the carbs two more times. The first time I adjusted the floats to 'specs.' Unfortunately I made the adjustment improperly. Now the floats appear to be set properly (and may have been fine to start.)<BR><BR>I removed every removable part from the carbs and cleaned them with LIBERAL amounts of carb cleaner. (pilot jet YES main jet YES <BR>needle jet YES idle mix screw/spring unit YES get that carb cleaner spray tube right into all the little passages YES spray some into my eyes accidentally YES! - where's the nearest eye flush station?)<BR><BR>When finished I did not blow every passage out with compressed air. This may be a possible flaw in my carb overhaul. The slides are all at equal height and I used the alignment hole in an effort to syncronize them<BR><BR>NEW SYMPTOM - All three cylinders (at times) will fire together and idle. The speed will soar to 3000 rpm and then I can adjust the idle screws ... then a cylinder will fail and she'll lose a few hundred rpm for about 30 seconds and then she'll stall out. Or I get the idle set at around 1100 rpm and give it a rev ... then the rpms stay up above 2500 ?? Not sure what is going on.<BR><BR>ANOTHER NOTE - since my initial attempt to work on the motor about 2 months ago there has been a 'bucking' problem with the bike. By 'bucking' I mean ... let's say I'm in second gear rolling to a stop sign/light. As the bike slows through average speeds for the gear the bike will surge and release and feels like a bucking horse. It had never done this prior to my 'cleaning' and 'working on' the engine. Could this be connected to the cylinder ailment? I am nearly at the point of taking her into the shop .. but can't stand paying an under educated tech what will (I almost certain) exceed $150 to tell me I need to put even more money into the bike to have it riding any better.<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>The new (NOS) SRIS tubes are on and working much better than the clear eurethane tubes I tried earlier. Also I found an upholstry shop to do the seat. AND I got my neighbor's 500 Titan running tonight! Even got the idle to hover around a decent 1000 rpm! And I thought MY carbs were in bad adjustment!? Thank God for Saturdays!<BR><BR>-JD,JD,[email protected]
Re: More work completed ... more work still needed !,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 13:20:27, writes,JD:<BR><BR>Sorry about your eyes...didn't I mention that part ??? LOLOLOLOL<BR>Wow !! What a varied set of symptoms !! It sounds to me that fuel flow to/through the carbs is being interrupted intermittently. The compressed aur will probably dislodge anything left after the carb cleaner has done its work.<BR>Compressed air is always the FINAL step before reassembly. I learned that from my dear old Dad<BR>while watching him overhaul Rochester Quadrajets on Chevies.<BR>Is the petcock bowl/strainer clean ?? Are you getting any "little uglies" in the carb bowls (i.e. rust particles from the tank) ?? What are the spark plugs showing ?? Rich (wet) or lean (dry) ??<BR>Is your gas tank cap vent working properly ??<BR>Rusted/corroded solid maybe ?? Try setting idle<BR>again with cap open AFTER doing the stuff listed above. It goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway for the newbies) DO NOT RIDE WITH GAS TANK CAP OPEN !! This can be VERY HAZARDOUS to your health and future riding prospects !!! LOLOLOL<BR>Sometimes I just crack myself up !!!<BR>Keep us posted on this. <BR>Last DID put the flat brass washers back on the main jets before reinstalling them didn't you ?? Also...<BR>by any chance are your air equalization tubes blocked (that's the flex tubing that comes out of the side of the carb and is supposed to be vented to atmosphere on the 72 & 73 carbs) ???,H2RICK,
Re: Re: More work completed .... FLEX TUBING ON THE CARB ??,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 21:45:28, writes,H2RICK <BR><BR>I follow you on everything above except for the part about the 'flex tubing' on the carb that is to vent to the atmospere. I have no flex tubing on the carbs. The center cylinder has a (second) eurethane tube that connects to the fuel petcock. Also there are tiny (about 1/4 inch diameter and 3/4 inch long) metal knubs that stick off of the forward left side of each carb and that appears to breathe from the atmosphere. Should these knubs have flex tubing on them?<BR><BR>I am hoping to have the bike running strong by next weekend. Then I'll order the long awaited tires and have new upholstry put on the seat!<BR><BR>(¿flex tubing?),JD,
Re: Re: Re: More work completed .... FLEX TUBING ON THE CARB ??,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 23:29:40, writes,JD:<BR><BR>Yep those are they and they should have some vent tubing on them. I assume you blasted them with the carb cleaner when you had the chance ??<BR>Blockages in these will cause all kinds of problems with fuel flow.<BR>What have you found with the other suggestions of mine from earlier today beside your post on timing above ??,H2RICK,
Re: ... update on the GT550 carb problem!,Saturday 28-Oct-2000 14:34:13, writes,The carbs appear to be clean and in great working condition. Every port and open space has been blasted with cleaner compressed air and expletives ! Now I have begun to focus my attention on the elictrical ignition areas. Specifically the points condensor and timing. <BR><BR>I have no idea how to do the points (although I now know how to set the timing) so I have called the local shops. I got a quote for $35 for the first hour of labor which the mech said is more than enough barring any problems. I told him I have set the timing and the entire area is "clean." <BR><BR>Now I plan on calling "Paul Miller Motorcycles" to find out how much he charges for points and a condensor. I hope it's less than $30. Then I can set the timing and have her running more efficiently.<BR><BR>THEN I plan to focus on determining why my battery is always dead when I let her sit for more than a few days. (Darn that's frustrating.)<BR><BR>FINALLY I think that the crank needs a new bearing where the left cylinder connecting rods meets it. Is that even possible? I have new wrist pins and wrist pin bearings and don't know where this sound (that started all the problems for me with this bike) could come from other than the crank bearing!!<BR><BR>Then all will be good in my world. I always consider selling the bike but don't think I could get more than a grand for her. Besides what would I do with the money that could provide more enjoyment than my GT550?<BR><BR><BR><BR>Thank you for all of your help and suggestions. I'd have had to junk her a few months ago otherwise. Now that I have a job (again) I hope to have a bit more $ to spend on her. The seat looks horrible and the tires are dangerously cracked on the sidewalls! Also the paint on the tank has taken a beating in this Carolina sun!<BR><BR><BR>Keep'n the Two Strokers on the Road <BR>-JD,JD,
Re: Re: ... update on the GT550 carb problem!,Saturday 28-Oct-2000 21:57:57, writes,1) Condensors don't USUALLY die. They are there<BR>to reduce/absorb voltage across the points so that the actual contacts on the points don't <BR>pit/deteriorate too quickly. If you can match condensors accurately to the ignition system voltage the contact surfaces will last MUCH longer than usual.<BR><BR>2)Your battery problem is one of two things:<BR> A) you've got a partial short somewhere on the<BR> hot side of the battery wiring. Check with<BR> ammeter on low setting in series from <BR> battery positive post to positive cable.<BR> Key off. If you get ANY reading at all <BR> start chasing that short.<BR> B) one cell in battery is going bad. Replace<BR> battery. Use ONLY distilled water in any <BR> battery for make-up water after initial<BR> acid fill. They last a LOT longer that way.<BR> I can get about 5 years out of a good <BR> quality (Yuasa Japan) battery in my bikes.<BR> One went 7 years.<BR><BR>3) Noise: you are referring to the "big end" bearing of the connecting rod. Yes they DO wear out and/or get wrecked by carelessness. Lack of<BR>injection oil to that cylinder will do it but usually the piston will seize before the big end goes. A leaking inlet tract will let dirt in and that will definitely do it. Check in the inlet port to see if dirt has been getting in. Suzi big ends and main bearings are VERY reliable given<BR>a minimum of care by the owner. You MIGHT be hearing some rattling from the clutch or the gearbox instead of the crank area.<BR><BR>4) The contact area of points CAN be resurrected<BR>with some care. With the point set removed from the backing plate a flexstone can be used to carefully remove any "spikes" of metal from the contact area WITHOUT touching the rest of the contact surface. Final cleaning can be done by letting the contact surfaces snap shut of a clean<BR>rough surface (not shiny) business card. A clean piece of flannel bedsheet works well too. Pull either of these materials back and forth through the contact surfaces until they come out clean.<BR>If you're anal retentive about it you can use <BR>contact cleaner for the final step.<BR>You will NOT get 3 sets of points and 3 condensors (genuine Suzuki) for less than about<BR>US$ 20 - $25 PER SET. Buy a flexstone and a can<BR>of contact cleaner and bum an old flannel nightie<BR>or a flannel bedsheet from your girlfriend/wife/mom/sister and go to work.<BR><BR>5) Once you get her running properly and BEFORE<BR> you take any "test" rides GET THOSE TIRES <BR> REPLACED ASAP. Even good used ones WITHOUT<BR> CRACKS are better than what you have now.<BR> Even new Cheng Shins (cheapest tire known to<BR> man) are better. It is false economy to skimp<BR> on tires. You don't have to go crazy with<BR> $200 racing boots but you can get pretty good tires new for about US$ 75 - $100 each. Make <BR> sure you get new tubes as well and have each<BR> wheel balanced after the tires are installed.<BR><BR>Whew.....are you still awake JD ??? LOLOLOLOL<BR>Good luck and keep 'em smokin' !!!!,H2RICK,
The bearings .. what next !,Thursday 2-Nov-2000 23:27:25, writes,H2RICK<BR><BR>Well after reading your email I think I am going to go for a set of points check for a short on the battery (and possibly buy a new one either way) order a set of Cheng Shins (as I helped my neighbor to do a few months ago) and ...<BR><BR>I am willing to bet that the crank bearing is shot. Allow me to retort. While I had the engine apart I cleaned out the passageways for the injector oil. On the left cylinder (the bastard child of the three) I noticed that I could not fit even a bristle of a wire brush through the hole on the back side! Eventually I got creative and used the inner wire from a Co-Axial TV cable along with the tapping from a light hammer. Finally worked the *#$%@ out of there. I wonder how long she was clogged.<BR><BR>ALSO while I had the cylinder's off and the pistons out of my way I noticed that I could see both sides of the center and right bearings however I could only see the outre edge of the left cylinder crank bearing. AND it had more mobility than the others. I put her back together (and even crossed my fingers) only to find the noise still lingering. It is exagerated when the bike warms up or I am shifting and back off of the throttle.<BR><BR>All in all the more work I do ... the more problems I find. It'll be a great day when I am able to ride her and not have to worry about a list of ailments and wonder if she'll stall at idle click in the motor have a low battery or wipe out from under me because I blew a tire!<BR><BR>Looking at her on the stand ,JD,

T500 Aftermarket Baffles,Tuesday 17-Oct-2000 21:38:33, writes,I've read a couple of posts about using aftermarket baffles with the stock T500 pipes and getting decent results. Anybody got any info about who makes these aftermarket baffles cost gains losses etc.? I'm still trying to make up my mind about going with aftermarket expansion chambers and I'd like to know about the possibility of this other option. Thanks.,Kris,
Re: T500 Aftermarket Baffles,Wednesday 18-Oct-2000 07:12:41, writes,Kris <BR><BR>The baffles do help a lot but are designed to make a Production bike faster. They were designed by Crooks Suzuki for Les Trotter when he won the Isle of Mann Production race in 1970. With mild porting and the baffles and a fairing the bike attained 130mph in race gearing. My Production T500 without a fairing on the back straight at Mid-Ohio did and indicated 127mph.<BR><BR>I sell the baffles (special order) for $100 plus shipping. Same price as stock baffles from NOS companies.<BR><BR>They are louder than stock (85db) but I have not been stopped yet by the law.,Eric,

Gt750 tls front wheel.,Tuesday 17-Oct-2000 21:35:06, writes,I heard about a guy who knew a guy who know...etc who had some GT550 wheels for sale. Finally found this guy phoned him and asked about the wheels. The back wheel sounded good but he descibed the front as have both pairs of shoes and an air scoop on either side. Is he describing a GT 750 tls front wheel? What years were they made. I am not as familiar with the Gt750 as the Gt550. What is an easy way to tell what wheel it is? Thanks.,Gary,[email protected]
Re: Gt750 tls front wheel.,Wednesday 18-Oct-2000 04:38:54, writes,The first GT550 had the same 4 leading shoe drum brake as the GT750. The 4LS front drum brake is worth big quids. If you don't want it I'll have it!!!<BR><BR>cheers<BR>Muzza<BR>,Muzza,
Re: Gt750 tls front wheel.,Wednesday 18-Oct-2000 05:49:45, writes,If you don't want the drum I need it to finish off my 1972 GT 750. E mail me if interested.,,
Re:I now have the Gt750 tls(4ls) front wheel.,Wednesday 18-Oct-2000 10:15:12, writes,I now have the wheels. Front and back. Both sides of the front come off and there is a pair of brake shoes on either side. There are little rubber gromet type plugs that look like they are filling some cooling holes as well. Interesting looking setup. How well do they work? Are they hard to set up? Gary,gary,[email protected]
Oh they are absolute garbage. I'll take it off your hands for you like. ;-),Wednesday 18-Oct-2000 20:51:41, writes,,Stephen,[email protected]
Re: Oh they are absolute garbage. I'll take it off your hands for you like. ;-),Friday 20-Oct-2000 20:45:04, writes,They take a bit of fiddling to set up but once tuned in are OK not as good as a disk but OK. As you can see by the reaction they are worth having. A good find there.,muzza,[email protected]

Paint colors and numbers,Monday 16-Oct-2000 14:21:01, writes,I have a 72 GT550J that has been repaintd. I would like to restore it a correct color for the year. It was Aztec Gold but I could pick another color. I need paint numbers.<BR>Thanks.,Bob Capitola,[email protected]
Re: Paint colors and numbers,Monday 16-Oct-2000 22:37:59, writes,Bob:<BR><BR>I'm not aware of EVER seeing paint codes for any Suzi's either back then or currently. Maybe Eric who started this board and looks in regularly might know. Your best bet is to find the original colour probably on the bottom or tunnel of the gas tank. Painters when they do a respray usually don't bother with too much paint there and with a little xylene and a rag (wear rubber gloves and do it outdoors...xylene is suspected carcinogen and is also highly flammable/explosive) you can usually rub enough of the respray off (and any undercoat) to get down to the original colour. Take the tank to a reputable body/paint supply store that has one of these dandy new optical colour matching computers...problem codes needed. The fun part comes trying to match the original stripes/design. Quite complex on the "J" models.<BR>Good luck with this.,H2RICK,

Condensors,Monday 16-Oct-2000 11:06:17, writes,Where do I get Condensors for my '72 GT550?,scott,
Re: Paul Miller Motorcycles (877) 244-7755,Monday 16-Oct-2000 11:22:11, writes,,Eric,

T500 crank seal extraction,Monday 16-Oct-2000 10:17:22, writes,Hi fellas<BR>After nearly a month of neglecting my old smoky Titan in the garage I began my task of tearing the old girl down to replace the outer crank seals. (many belated thanks to another Chris who emailed me with Vesrah part #s)<BR>Now my Haynes manual tells me that these seals are "...easily withdrawn once the circlips are removed." With all due respect to the gentlemen at Haynes I have found this to be an utter lie. <BR>To my surprise the tranny looks good and so all that stands between me and reassembling the motor is getting these things out and putting in the new ones. Any advice on how to do this would be appreciated. Thanks.,Chris W,[email protected]
Re: T500 crank seal extraction,Monday 16-Oct-2000 10:34:02, writes,I used a special flat blade screw driver with the tip bend about an 1 inch from the end over @ 90 degrees. You will probably have to put some heat to the screw driver before attempting to bend. Once you have made this special tool insert the tip into the i.d. of the seal and carefully pry out. I did this when the bearings were off of the crankshaft. If you intend to take the seals out while the crank is still in try this approach. Since you are replacing the seals screw a coarse thread sheet metal screw in the face of the seal. You can use 2 180 degrees apart. Then use a set of channel locks to pull the seal out. If you work both sides it should come out with ease. Hope this helps.<BR>,Greg,[email protected]
T500 distributor,Sunday 15-Oct-2000 21:56:27, writes,Hi;<BR><BR>I just got a 1974 T500 and the distributor is torn apart. I am looking for a manual or someone to print me the information and send it to me. I am going to do a tuneup and it but my quess work may be off on this one.<BR><BR>Ron,Ronald M. Upton,[email protected]
Re: T500 distributor,Monday 16-Oct-2000 06:54:40, writes,Disdritutor?I never heard this one.Ignition rotor magnet etc.<BR>Ps:sometimes the word:tank you or please goes really far when ask for favors.,Rick,
Re: Re: T500 distributor,Monday 16-Oct-2000 22:17:31, writes,Get a Clymer or Haynes manual BEFORE attempting anything like this. There are a lot of little insulating washers and such that have to go in the right place sparks. The ignition system on the Titan is quite simple when you look at it with the help of a blow-up view in the manual. Good luck on this project.,H2RICK,

Parts for GT750?,Sunday 15-Oct-2000 21:08:44, writes,I'm pulling some parts off my Buffalo to clean it up a little (clean up the grease and shine the chrome and all). I decided to replace all the 25 year old hoses. When I pulled the tiny one off the "banjo" fitting on the radiator fill tube the end of it came off. The fitting weakened by corrosion. Does suzuki still supply these? It appears this same part is used on the oil pump inlet.<BR><BR>I also need two silicon (red) exhaust gaskets on the end of the "Y" pipe from the center cylinder.<BR><BR>Any info out there?<BR><BR>Andy Brothers<BR>1975 GT750M<BR>[email protected],Andy,
Re: Parts for GT750?,Monday 16-Oct-2000 22:14:08, writes,See a couple of posts above for Paul Miller's phone number. If it doesn't work for you try his email: [email protected]<BR><BR>Yes I know it's spelled incorrectly but that's the address.,H2RICK,
GT750 side panels &badges,Sunday 15-Oct-2000 19:00:46, writes,I have been looking for a set of the side panels and badges for my 72 GT750. I'm not sure if its a J or a K model and I don't really care what type of panels I get as long as they look good.Also if anyone can help me find the tank badges I would appreciate it. Like I say i'm not too particular on the models I'd just like to get it looking good for the road.I love this site and hope someone can help me. ,Ken Needham,[email protected]
Re: GT750 side panels &badges,Sunday 15-Oct-2000 20:47:03, writes,I have a set of tank badges and screws for this bike lets bargin.,,[email protected]
74 gt 750 carb parts,Sunday 15-Oct-2000 11:12:25, writes,Just dropping a line to check if anyone knows of a diaphram assembly that goes on the top of the carb. Mine was butchered by the previous owner and needs replacing. The bike sat for 13 years but turns freely the carbs were left full of fuel for five years before removal by the previous owner I cleaned the other two and also need three bowl gaskets. I just want to hear this thing run before the complete teardown and resto. Thanks in advance.,chris young,[email protected]
Re: 74 gt 750 carb parts,Monday 16-Oct-2000 16:53:41, writes,If you're talking about the rubber bellows on the top of the carb that the accelerator rod goes back and forth through I think Suzuki still sells them. I can get them from the dealer for approx. $18 a piece.<BR><BR>Since I needed all three I made my own out of good quality electric (rubber) tape. And they work fine. ;-)<BR>,Gregp,
Re: 74 gt 750 carb parts,Monday 16-Oct-2000 20:21:49, writes,I have the cv carb setup the dealer told me the part would run about $150 for the diaphram I needed because I had to buy the slide too. They said that is the only way they came. I really dont know any help would be appreciated. I am also looking for three bowl gaskets mine tore when i was tearing down the carbs.,chris,[email protected]

Thanks Eric and everybody,Saturday 14-Oct-2000 23:59:22, writes,The help has been invaluable. I am now trying to track down a local T500 that was drag raced in the area up till about six years ago. The story goes that some guy owned it had all the hotrodding done to the motor and he used to clean up pretty well at the strip. Apparently he got older lost interest you know the story and the bike was sold to a couple of Mennonite farm boys and now resides in the barn just to the left of Bessie unloved and unused (the bike that is). I'll let you know what I find.<BR> I also think I've got a tank that will work well on the GT. It's off a 76 KH 400 triple (which I'm parting out if anybody's interested). It's long and thin holds enough gas and fits right on the frame. Just a weld here and a little rubber there and it'll look like it came from the factory.<BR> Another question came to me as I was writing this. The bike will run without the battery will this hurt anything if I choose to run without it? I seem to remember being warned about doing so with another bike. Thanks. ,Kris,
Re: Thanks Eric and everybody,Monday 16-Oct-2000 07:15:30, writes,My first Race T500 was a PEI one. I deleted all the unnecessary wiring and had no problems with it. I raced it two seasons and sold it to a friend who let Joey Naval ride it two years later and he won on it. It still hasn't been torn down and still runs fine. No ill effects.,Eric,

T500 pistons pulled,Saturday 14-Oct-2000 21:07:43, writes,My god...I got the pistons off. It seemed as if the wrist pins were welded in but I wedged the crank arms up real good with a wood hammer handle and just reamed 'em out. Only found 3 circlips (yikes were is the 4rth?) and one of the needlebearings was rusty and shot whereas the other looked brand new. How strange... I flushed the cranckcase out with gasoline and crancked until it ran clean out of the drainplugs. No big pieces of metal emerged and the movement was smooth very little side-to-side travel in the crank arms. I will buy new pistons rings and small end bearings. Also I drained the oil out and replaced it with a measured 1400 cc's in a volumetric flask (I work in a laboratory) and the overflow plug didn't start running until 1400 mL had been added even tho' the stamp says 1200 cc. So perhaps the "overflow method" does work on some post '72 crankcases. I know this is just boring to some of ya been there done that but I just thought I'd drop a line. The Rat Ruster (ahem Racer) is coming along OK at this point.<BR>-Matt ,Matt,[email protected]
Re: T500 pistons pulled,Saturday 14-Oct-2000 23:07:41, writes,Matt:<BR><BR>Congrats !! <BR>Three points though...<BR><BR>1) those "crank arms" are connecting rods or con rods or just....rods<BR><BR>2) install NEW wrist pins and circlips along with the rest of the parts you mentioned. It's also a good idea to get your cylinders bore gauged to check for taper/erosion especially in the port area<BR><BR>3) it would probably be a GOOD IDEA to find that<BR>fourth circlip. It is amazing what damage that little bit of high class wire can do if it gets in the wrong place....which it usually does if you don't track it down before buttoning everything back up,H2RICK,
Re: Re: T500 pistons pulled,Sunday 15-Oct-2000 11:06:55, writes,Thanks for the info and advice you guys are great. The motorcycle is now in my living room as I have no garage. Luckily my girlfriend is very understanding of my various obsessions and oddities. Now I can restore the bike at my leisure while watching TV and drinking beer. The good life right gents? ,Matt,
1400cc vs 1200cc,Saturday 14-Oct-2000 23:55:51, writes,There is a differnce between the fill level and "capacity". The manual for my truck says 4.5 litres but I bet I could get 8 litres into it. It might even run for a little while like that :-).<BR><BR>Anyway it is also possible that the case you have is a transition one. I have a case that is stamped 1200cc. However it came with a sticker over the stamping that indicates 1400cc. I suspect that the internal mods were made to allow higher capacity before the casting was actually changed. Of course another explanation is that due to the problems created by the lower capacity and public perception Suzuki just tried to move some bikes by putting a sticker on them!,Stephen,[email protected]

T500 oil capacity revisited,Saturday 14-Oct-2000 00:41:41, writes,In response to a much earlier post (halfway down the page). I decided to start tearing down the engine I picked up last month at the boneyard. My brother looking at the top case and asked what 1400cc meant considering it was a 500. After expalining it was the oil capacity I looked and the number is casted into the case - the engine is a '74. I looked at the case from the original engine - '68 - and it had no numbers cast into the case. From reading other posts on this matter it was stated that early engines had been stamped then a sticker applied over the 1200cc stamping and then the stamping disappeared altogether. I'm not trying to step on anyone's toes as I appreciate all of the help that others have given me over thepast couple of months I didn't want to see anyone purchase an engine assume it had the modified capacity because of the lack of a stamp and find out the hard way that it hadn't been modified. Because Suzuki manufactured cases that had been modified and were still stamped 1200cc I would suggest that the only way to verify the oil capacity is correct without tearing the engine down is if it stamped 1400cc.<BR><BR>I truly mean no ill towards anyone here and am just trying to help keep as many of these old beauties on the road as possible.<BR><BR>Best regards.<BR><BR>Greg,Greg Groth,[email protected]
Re: T500 oil capacity revisited,Saturday 14-Oct-2000 09:43:16, writes,I will suggest an alternative method of finding out the true capacity without cracking the case:<BR>Couldn't one simply <BR>(1) Drain out all of the oil (from all the drainplugs).<BR>(2) Measure 1400 cc's of fresh oil; 1400 cc's = 1400 mL = 1.4 Liters (ah the beauty of the metric system).<BR>(3) Pour the oil into the engine and see how much (if any) pours out of the overflow hole).<BR>(4) Alternately one could pour in 1.2 L of oil (there should be no overflow) then add an extra 200 mL and see whether or not it all pours out the overflow.<BR><BR>Perhaps I am overly niave but it seems to me this would answer the capacity question.<BR>Matt<BR>,Matt,[email protected]
Re: T500 oil capacity revisited,Saturday 14-Oct-2000 10:03:02, writes,Seems to me the only safe bet is to split your cases. No one buys Suzuki 500s new from the factory anymore so how can you look at a case and assume it has 1200 or 1400cc of oil capacity. Anything could have happened to the bike since it left the factory. Still the basic rule is up to 1973 T500s had 1200cc of capacity and normally had 1200cc cast in the case. 1974 T500s were supposed to have 1400cc capacity but a lot came out with the 1200cc casting still and a silly metal sticker with 1400cc on it over the casting. Of course this came off soon afterwards. Do whatever you like but my advice still stands..beware of any T500 check the gearbox and keep the thing running. It's too late to look aftr the gearbox fails. The overflow hole is not an accurate measure but it could prove something. if the bike is dead level and something close to 200cc of oil comes out when you pour 1400cc in then you probably have a 1200cc casing. Anyone want to line a 1200cc bike and 1400cc bike up side to side and test the overflow hole method?<BR>,Muzza,
Gt 500 was the tranny oil oveflow tube a bad design?,Friday 13-Oct-2000 14:09:55, writes,I always found some oil puddles right below the oil banjo bolts.I tought I had a problem with the oil injection lines.You know lose bolts bad plastic washers ect.Funny thing was that no oil was missing from the oil tank but oil was missing from the motor.From 1.5 liter the level dropped to 1.2 liters.No leak under the motor.No smoking.Just a bit when the bike is idling.I know how much can smoke when an oil seal is bad.I had a bad exsperince with my old H2.Coulb be possible that the oil goes up to the overflow tube leak thru the plastic pipe and then wet the top of the motor below the banjo fittings?.Should I put a bit of silicone on the plastic pipe on the overflow tube and then put it back over the metal long breather and smear the silicone around it?Help on this guys.Thank's<BR>Ps:Can the breather be improved in design?.,Rick,

Crank "twinkle",Friday 13-Oct-2000 08:37:14, writes,Has anyone out there heard of a crank being "twinkled". Apparently this is when a crank is press back together with both pistons running in phase. Firing at the same time. Probably gobs amount of low end torque!,Greg,[email protected]
Re: Crank ,Friday 13-Oct-2000 08:58:15, writes,Yeah..that's an old trick. What do you get ??<BR>A 2 stroke that runs like an old Limey bike and/or a Honda Benley 150 or Dream 305. I owned both those Hondas (I cringe to think it now) and have ridden many Limey twins. Give me the alternate firing crank every time thank you.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Crank ,Friday 13-Oct-2000 19:32:59, writes,Shake it up if the 500 doesn't shake enough!!<BR>The 500 has gobs of torque without twisting cranks and shattering con rods. We're talking about a 2 stroke here which fires twice as often as a 4 stroke. We don't need a twingle. <BR>Almost bought a Triumph once until I rode it the vibes were horrendous!<BR>,muzza,[email protected]
Re: Crank ,Tuesday 17-Oct-2000 18:51:16, writes,greg <BR>I have not twingled a crank but after reading an article in classic bike about a 500 two stroke not a Suzuki I offset the throws by 45 degrees. Don't beleive everything you read. It vibrated worse than ever cracked the frame on both sides just above the swing arm pivot. I put it back the way it was.<BR>Reguards <BR>dave webster,,
Re: Crank ,Tuesday 31-Oct-2000 03:21:48, writes,its called twingle ( twin and single)<BR>,,

76 GT500 Tank,Thursday 12-Oct-2000 22:31:56, writes,Can anybody tell me what fuel tanks work on the GT500 for vintage racing? The stock tank is way too fat. Is there anything else that fits without too much trouble that is readily available? What kind of frame modifications work to improve the GT's handling? The Suzuki 500 Fanatics page recommends shortening the swingarm by about four inches. This seems like a lot to me but then again I don't know anything. Any opinions?,Kris,
Re: 76 GT500 Tank,Saturday 14-Oct-2000 04:12:25, writes,Hello Kris <BR>I used to race a GT with a t500 tank fitted depends what the race regs allow you to use.A gt380 tank also fits ok sort of in between the t500 tank and the stock tank.<BR>As to the handling use taper roller head race bearings make sure the swinging arm bushes are in very good condition I used to use Phosphor bronze bushes(sort of a soft brass type metal ) but i don't know if you can still get them. Use good quality back shocks believe me a set of good shocks does make a difference i use koni "dail a rides " even on the road now they have plenty of adjustment to keep that back end in contact with the road !I also stiffen the front end damping up by using heavier oil and slightly more than standard but thats really personal preference a couple of people who have rode my gt complain that it is a hard ride !!<BR>Anyway thats the basics of what i used to run it handled ok on the twisty circuits her in England. Good luck with the racing keep us updated.<BR>Trev<BR>PS. One last thing IGNORE all wobbles just keep the throttle open !!,trev,
Re: Re: 76 GT500 Tank,Saturday 14-Oct-2000 14:20:08, writes,I definitely like the looks of the T500 tank over the GT500. Someone said to get a Ducati 750ss tank but where am I going to find one of those and be able to afford it? Everyone seems to go for the Konis I think that will be my choice as well. Thanks.,Kris,

T500 engine free...but there are issues,Thursday 12-Oct-2000 18:04:50, writes,Well I freed up the pistons on my 73 T500 using the boiling oil technique (thanks Craig). I removed the cylinders and I have a few questions for you learned ones:<BR>1) At the lowest point of the cylinder is a metal lip continuous with the bore that fits down inside the crankcase when assembled. This rim has two ports milled into it - sort of oblong holes through the rim if you will. On one of my cylinders this rim has a hairline crack that goes all the way through the bottom edge of the port. Is this bad? How bad? It isn't a jagged crack it is flush and smooth - but it is a definite crack.<BR>2)My big end (ha!) is covered in a this thin oily brownish rusty goo that spurts up when I work the crank. Underneath this goo the metal looks good (to me). It is brownish-black and very smooth. Is this a bad thing? How bad? I was thinking I would just flush the cranckcase with clean oil. A good bit of liquid wrench dripped down onto my big end during the piston liberation fiasco.<BR><BR>Thanks men for your advice. It is really nice to have this forum. <BR>,Matt,[email protected]
Re: T500 engine free...but there are issues,Thursday 12-Oct-2000 19:11:00, writes,Congradulations Matt <BR><BR>I have cut the bottom of windows out. In other words the edges of the port run right down to the edge of the bore. Have you looked at the Suzuki 500 fanatics web site? There is alot a great information on this board. It will take a while but it is very interesting reading. I am in the long process of building a street racer (T500 1975). I am currently getting ready to press my crank back together. So I have got a little ways to go yet. Back to your concern I cut my windows bottom out. They cast iron cylinder seemed brittle in this area to me. I would suggest cutting them out but see what others have to say also. I am pretty new to these bikes also. Good luck!<BR>,GREG,[email protected]
Re: Re: T500 engine free...but there are issues,Friday 13-Oct-2000 14:15:21, writes,Ok I see. I just read about this the Fanatics website as per your suggestion. Now I understand why it is called "porting". Thanks for your advice Greg.,Matt,

74 gt 550,Thursday 12-Oct-2000 17:45:11, writes,Greetings again I have a green 74 gt 550 and was wondering what the letter designation might be the # on the fork next to the model is 37077. I've found from online part houses that they need the model letter j m etc. Also I'm trying to find an original tire pattern for the bike one that looks good is a bridgestone accolade-classic retro. Any info would be great thanks again john b.,john b,
Re: 74 gt 550,Friday 13-Oct-2000 09:09:04, writes,John:<BR><BR>I assume you mean steering head when you give the location of the number on the "fork" ?? 37077 looks like a frame serial number to me and is used for the registration. It's equivalent to what is known nowadays as a VIN (vehicle identification number). What is stamped in the steering head is GT550-37077. What is NOT stamped<BR>there is the model year designator i.e. J K L M <BR>A or B. There was a sticker located near the serial number when the bike was built originally.<BR>This sticker repeated the serial number but ALSO<BR>showed the build date e.g. 8/73. That date would interpret as 8th month of 1973 which would make the bike a 1974 model as anything made after<BR>the 6th month is usually considered as being the next model year. In this case the model year designator would be an "L" which is for all 1974<BR>Suzuki motorcycles. I will check tonight in my service bulletins and other data and figure out<BR>which model year/designator is applicable to your serial number. More to follow later.<BR>There are 2 ways to find this out:<BR>Contact either your local Suzuki dealer to get,H2RICK,
Followup on the serial #,Saturday 14-Oct-2000 08:20:06, writes,Your number LOOKS like a 1973 model from what I can find in my books. That would make it a "K"<BR>model. Production was from 08/72 to 06/73. You say it is that stock paint ?? Is it a light metallic green with a darker green "swoosh" decal on the tank ?? Does it have carbs with individual cables ?? If so it is for sure a 1973 K model.<BR>If it has "unitized" carbs with a single cable arrangement then it is a 74 or later. The 74s came in 2 colours: "Ferrari" red with gold pinstripe and I can't remember what the second colour was. If you are sure it is original stock paint and it is dark metallic green with a gold pinstripe then it is a 76 "A" model built from 08/75 to 06/76.....but your serial number is way too low for it to be a 76. Maybe somebody swapped out the original tank and/or side covers on your bike and put on the 76 stuff. Let me know what you find out. Maybe it's a "bitsa" bike with bits of everything on it ??,H2RICK,
Re: 74 gt 550,Monday 16-Oct-2000 11:50:06, writes,H2RICK The model date is 11/73. As far as the color the guy I bought It from says It is the original and a suzuki dealer once told me he thought it was called Hawaii green they might however be smoking crack. I just want to return it to original condition regardless of color I planto repaint it when I find the decals anyway. P.S. - there was an exact match on ebay a while back I'f you search 1974 suzuki gt 550 under search completed items. thanks for the replies JohnB.,john B,
Re: Re: 74 gt 550,Monday 16-Oct-2000 22:30:19, writes,If the build date is 11/73 then it is for sure a 1974 "L" model. The bodywork you have may have been pulled off something earlier or completely repainted. The dealer is probably right about the Hawaii green colour. If I remember rightly it is a medium green non-metallic with gold pinstriping around the outer edge of the tank sides BUT I never saw one in the flesh. The other colour was Laredo Red (also non-metallic) for 1974...very striking with the gold pinstripe. These were very popular in Calgary when they were new. Real attention getters. Good luck with your project.<BR>Always glad to help another 550 rider.,H2RICK,

76 gt500,Wednesday 11-Oct-2000 23:03:16, writes,I'm glad I found this board. I recently purchased a clean 76 gt500 with fourteen thousand miles (runs well) for $400(US). I intended to build it into a street legal roadracer and possibly try my hand at vintage racing. I had a few two-stroke road bikes years ago but eventually bought a four stroke. For many of us I fear the two-stroke bug is incurable. You all know the reasons why. I'd like to find some chambers for this model used if possible that will not break my bank account. Also any hints or performance parts that you could recommend would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.<BR><BR> Kris,Kris,
Re: 76 gt500,Thursday 12-Oct-2000 05:38:44, writes,You can buy chambers from Jemco.Price is around $250.Performance parts?I don't think so.You can port the cylinders.Erick will do it.Good luck,John,

What sort of racing?,Thursday 12-Oct-2000 15:09:43, writes,What sort of racing do you plan on doing AHRMA WERA USCRA VRR?<BR>I started out this year with AHRMA in the historic production class and have had a great time. I you are working on a budget this would be a great class to start in. With a little work the T500 can be very competitive.<BR>Talk to Eric if you want some more power his work is top notch!,todd,[email protected]
Re: What sort of racing?,Thursday 12-Oct-2000 22:16:51, writes,I'm thinking about VRRA. I live in northern New York so it's not that far to Ontario to race. I've been racing stock cars at our local tracks for a while but my first love has always been two wheels especially the old two strokes. I've checked out VRRA's rules and the GT is acceptable for Period 2 Heavyweight Super Vintage. I also called Jemco and they quoted me a price of $325 for the street pipes and $375 for race pipes with a turn around of 3 weeks. Unless I can find a used set this may be my only option. I am new to the GT500 and vintage racing in general so any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.,kris,
Re: Re: What sort of racing?,Friday 13-Oct-2000 06:38:52, writes,I suvscribe to:Classic Racers.Is a british magazine.Price is $7.The magazine can be found at any Barnes&Nobles or Borders book stores.The magazine itself is great and has alot ads for Tz-Tr-Cr pipes builders.British make good pipes there.Worthed the $7.Jemco pipes are ok.I have the street pipes.They are loud too.,John,
Re: Re: Re: What sort of racing?,Friday 13-Oct-2000 12:33:18, writes,Thanks for your help. I'll have to check out Classic Racers. In the meantime I've got to find another tank to fit the GT 500 the stocker is too short and fat. Did you find it hard to get the jetting dialed in with the Jemco street pipes? Jemco says go up four sizes on the main and they claim an eight horse power increase with the chambers and stock porting. Others I have spoken to tell me the gain is almost non-existent but you save weight and get better cornering clearance. How hard was it to fit the pipes? The guy at Jemco told me they have to be "massaged" to fit but he didn't give any exact details. Thanks again.,Kris,
Re: Re: Re: Re: What sort of racing?,Friday 13-Oct-2000 13:27:04, writes,Did they tell you the differences between the street and the race pipes? It is my understanding that the street pipes offer more low and mid-range where the race pipes offer more high rev power. If you plan on racing the bike the race pipes may be worth the extra money.,todd,[email protected]
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Jemco - street/race,Friday 13-Oct-2000 16:27:04, writes,The T500 Jemco street pipes use the standard exhaust mounts and come complete with the header pipe. <BR><BR>The street exhaust must be slightly sectioned and lowered to clear the lower frame rails so you do not have to dent the pipes there. You also have to weld on the rear exhaust mounts as everone has a different setup there.<BR><BR>I use the race ones and they work well and can pull from 3 000rpm up with mild porting and proper jetting.,Eric,[email protected]
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Jemco - street/race,Saturday 14-Oct-2000 14:12:20, writes,You said the street ones need to be sectioned and rear mounts welded is this true of the race exhaust as well or is it more of a bolt on type deal? Not that I mind a little welding here and sectioning there but it seems as if the race exhaust would be worth the money if only for the fact that it fits easier if it does. What I want to do with the bike is race it but be able to ride it on the street as well. I'm not going for all out power (just yet) and I'm thinking about leaving the porting stock except for matching and polishing to begin with. As I've said before I am new to the T/GT500 and vintage racing as well and I've got alot to learn about the both of them. Which brings me to my next question what differences between the T500 and the GT 500 should I be aware of? How about parts interchangibility? Will these differences affect the fitting of the Jemco pipes? Thanks again for all your help. Without a board like this I'd be in a haze instead of leaving a blue one behind me.,Kris,
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Jemco - street/race,Saturday 14-Oct-2000 19:50:12, writes,Kris <BR><BR>If you are not going to port the motor then the race exhaust is a little too much. I have done several near TR spec motors for customers who are going to ride them on the street and have ridden them on the street and with the proper tuning and gearing they are very ridable.<BR><BR>The T500 motor is one of the few motors you can port without really losing lots of bottom end and midrange.<BR><BR>As for the Jemcos (race) They just need to be cut near the front header and lowered and rewelded and the small bracket enclosed welded on the rear of the pipe where you put your rear mount.<BR><BR>The GT500 and T500 are near the same. The crank and cases on the GT are different from the T500 in the that the crank has a different taper for the PEI rotor and the cases around the rotor plate are different as well. The crankcase vent is also different. (Of course the some bodywork and wiring are different as well),Eric,[email protected]

1972 gt 750,Wednesday 11-Oct-2000 21:15:47, writes,I need the wiring diagram for this bike or need to know where to find one.Thanks.,Josh,[email protected]
Re: 1972 gt 750,Thursday 12-Oct-2000 09:08:38, writes,A great service manual for all 2 strokes Suzuki-Kawasaki-Yamaha Rd's is the Chilton(big book).All the wiring diagrams are also included.A must to buy.Other bikes are also included.Any book store will have it or can be ordered.Book title is:Motorcycles and Atv service manual.Part number 7635,John,

GT500 front forks,Wednesday 11-Oct-2000 01:44:12, writes,Hi <BR>Can anyone tell me the right way of reassembling the fork interiors of my GT500. No I haven't forgotten but I reckon they might have been wrong for 20 years ­ oops. When I took them apart to replace the seals there were two washers on top then the spring which was jammed into a spacer about 6inches long at the bottom. Doesn't look right to me. Help! What should be in there and in what order?<BR><BR>Thanks,Nick,[email protected]
Re: GT500 front forks,Wednesday 11-Oct-2000 08:49:27, writes,I think if I remember correctly there should be<BR>(from top to bottom) the flat washer the tubular spacer with the slit in it the hat shaped washer with the hole in the centre and then the long main fork spring. The hat shaped washer should face so that the protrusion is downwards fitting into the I.D. of the long main spring and the flat side having the spacer ride on it. Will check my manuals when I get home tonight and let you know either tonight or tomorrow night.,H2RICK,
Re: GT500 front forks,Friday 13-Oct-2000 19:42:24, writes,Have a look on my GT500 parts page there is a diagram of the forks maybe that will help you<BR><BR>D:\temp_pics\Pointswest_website_xoom\gt500parts\gt500parts.htm,muzza,[email protected]
Re: GT500 front forks,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 01:28:33, writes,Thanks for the advice about how my GT500 forks should go together (correctly after 20 years!). This site's great and it's reassuring to know you're all out there. All the best,Nick,
Filling up balance holes,Tuesday 10-Oct-2000 20:24:29, writes,Hello everyone <BR>I am getting ready to press my crank together on my T500. I am deciding whether to plug the balancing holes with cork and epoxy or nylon type of plug. Although the nylon has more mass the crank will be balanced in a machine designed for this job. Any suggestions out there?<BR>,Greg,[email protected]
Re: Filling up balance holes,Wednesday 11-Oct-2000 19:13:59, writes,I've used both systems to plug my cranks and I can tell you that the Nylon plugs are a lot less messy to work with. The thing you will need to do is measure crankcase volumn with and without the holes stuffed and see what percentage of decrease in crankcase volune you get for all youer trouble. It ain't a lot. Will you feel the differience between your legs when you go out on the bike.....? No. but it's a guy thing.,kris bernstein,wang [email protected]

T500 oil pump and engine RPMs,Tuesday 10-Oct-2000 13:36:34, writes,Hello gents <BR><BR>As I walked past my "new" T500 rusting quietly in the yard this morning (on my way to get in my truck and drive to work on a beautiful fall morning sigh!) I cast a furtive shamed glance at the motorcycle and the following question sprang to mind:<BR>Is a tachometer cable required for proper oil pump operation? I have no tach cable (or tach for that matter) only a little rusty hole on the top of the oil pump housing where it is supposed to go. The other cable for adjusting the oil pump is there.<BR><BR>Thanks <BR>,Matt,[email protected]
Re: T500 oil pump and engine RPMs,Tuesday 10-Oct-2000 14:41:25, writes,No Matt the rev counter is driven by the oil pump the oil pump is still being driven by the gearbox whether the rev counter cable is connected or not.<BR>What's it doing rusting away Matt !!Get it going and ride the thing !!!<BR><BR>Trev,trev,
Re: Re: T500 oil pump and engine RPMs,Wednesday 11-Oct-2000 08:45:28, writes,Hey thanks for the answer Trev. I know I know...I need to get to work. I found a '65-'72 two-stroke Chilton manual at the used bookstore and am currently reading it cover to cover. ,Matt,

ignition for a gt 750,Tuesday 10-Oct-2000 11:06:03, writes,I am looking for a lucas rita lr 105 or something that will work so I can get rid of the points.,,
Re: ignition for a gt 750,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 14:52:32, writes,I have used a NEWTRONIC system ( formally pirhana ) on both my GT550 and 750 with excellent results. They cost approximately £100 sterling here in the U.K. They are easy to fit and set up and are then maintenance free. ,Bob Harris,[email protected]
GT 750 timing,Tuesday 10-Oct-2000 10:23:13, writes,Can someone help me with my timing. I am having a hell of a time trying to set this thing up.<BR><BR>She is backfiring I have retarded the timing but she will not start.<BR><BR>Atlantic Pirate,,
Re: GT 750 timing,Wednesday 11-Oct-2000 08:56:12, writes,AP: Can I assume that you have done everything by the book ?? All points gaps set correctly ?? Timing done with a dial gauge ?? Double checked with strobe light ?? No plug wires crossed ??<BR>No points wires to coils mixed up ?? A problem like this USUALLY has a "head slapper" solution <BR>as in "Why didn't I see that ?" followed by a hollow sound as your palm hits your forehead.<BR>LOLOLOLOL....let us know what happens on this.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: GT 750 timing,Thursday 12-Oct-2000 05:34:27, writes,a quick way to verify that everything is close is to use a test light (easily made up i use an old instrument light with a pair of aligator clips soldered on to the ends of the wires)connect ine end to ground the other end to the point wire conection. turn the ignition on WITH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT! and grounded to the cylinder head turn the engine over in its normal rotation. when the light lights up that is the moment the spark is happening at this point you can check your timing marks and see how close you are. if the light does not light then something is amis. also if the light never goes out there is also something wrong. one more tip the last thing to run through a set of points is a dollar bill any dinoination will work the deal is that this type of paped will pick up almost anything from oil to dirt to file shavings and carry it away from the point surface leaving them as clean as you will ever get them. you will still need to set the timing with a regular timing light when she is up and running but the test light will get you with in a few degrees. good luck! moooose!,moooose,[email protected]
Hey Moooose...good to see you over here too,Saturday 14-Oct-2000 08:26:05, writes,with the Suzi guys. Some of us have a foot in both camps. Do you have a Suzi ?? Which model/year ??,H2RICK,

Coils?,Tuesday 10-Oct-2000 09:32:53, writes,I am wondering if it's possible to switch a stock gt-550 3-pack coil system to 3 single lead coils? Are there pro's/con's to either system? <BR><BR>thanks,Scott,[email protected]
Re: Coils?,Friday 13-Oct-2000 19:49:38, writes,Seeing no one has answered you for so long....I'm no electrician but yep it is possible to hook up 3 single coils as far as I know. Just work out out how to plug them in.,muzz,

Transmission oil volume for a 74 GT 550,Sunday 8-Oct-2000 19:43:16, writes,Is there a way to tell how much transmission oil is in the bike without removing it and measuring?<BR>Thanks.,,
Re: Transmission oil volume for a 74 GT 550,Monday 9-Oct-2000 01:06:16, writes,Yep. If you notice on the clutch cover there's a<BR>special hex head bolt with the phillips cross in it and fibre washer underneath. The oil should come up at least as far as the bottom of that bolt hole in the cover. Check this with the bike on the centre stand and be sure to have a pan to catch the outflow if you have filled the tranny with the correct measured amount of oil when you changed it last.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Transmission oil volume for a 74 GT 550,Tuesday 10-Oct-2000 10:30:40, writes,Thank you very much.,,
1973 suzuki GT550,Saturday 7-Oct-2000 18:58:25, writes,I need the rubber disc that is in the fuel petcock. It has the four little holes in it to control the flow for the on and reserve and prime position. Anybody know where I can get one. the suzuki dealer kind of laughed when I tried to order a new one. Thanks!!,Josh,[email protected]
Re: 1973 suzuki GT550,Sunday 8-Oct-2000 07:42:56, writes,<BR><BR>Had one earlier this year from here,trev,
Re: 1973 suzuki GT550,Sunday 8-Oct-2000 08:06:44, writes,Find another dealer my local dealer Motions in Atlanta had one for me in a week along with several other parts for my "72".,Dave,
Re: Re: 1973 suzuki GT550,Sunday 8-Oct-2000 12:54:37, writes,For sure...get another dealer. Those guys sound like low rent scumballs. This part is still available from Suzuki so there's no reason they couldn't order one for you. Maybe they thought the order was "too small to bother with". If that's so then you don't want to be dealing with retards like that. In the "Dealer Popularity Contest" YOU get to vote with your money and that<BR>dealer should NOT get your vote. I wouldn't even phone to complain...just don't go back..... especially if ther's another Suzi dealer in your town/city/area.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Re: 1973 suzuki GT550,Monday 9-Oct-2000 13:27:25, writes,I am on the same quest. A fellow on the GT750 list suggested Vintage Parts as a source with a part number for the GT750 of #44341-33150 and I believe this may be same for the GT550. They have a web site and can also be reached at [email protected] Only DON'T buy them all I still need to put in my own order!,Bill Eickmeier,[email protected]
Re: Re: Re: Re: 1973 suzuki GT550,Monday 9-Oct-2000 21:53:20, writes,That number looks right BUT my Suzi interchange book shows it fitting the A (76) models and B (77) models for both the 550 and 750. It will PROBABLY fit all of them. You maybe should think about getting the O ring as well.,H2RICK,

Suzuki US Roadracing History,Saturday 7-Oct-2000 17:39:24, writes,Does anybody remember how many US AMA Roadrace National a Suzuki TR750 ever won?<BR><BR>I seem to recall one win by Art Baumann at Ontario Speedway (California) in about "73".<BR><BR>One other notable thing about that was that the purse was huge... I seem to remember $30 000 to win.... which might be an all time record (seems like some Daytona's should've been bigger... but..).. and of course those were huge dollars back then.<BR><BR>Can anybody verify my memories? Were there other wins for the TR750 in the US? Who else rode them? Nixon? Paul Smart? Aldana? DuHamel rode the KH? Kaw 750.,Lazy Boy,
Re: Suzuki US Roadracing History,Sunday 8-Oct-2000 16:39:45, writes,Jody Nicholas won at the AMA National at Atlanta on the Suzuki XR-11 (TR-750). The win was successfully protested by team Hanson (Kowasaki)due to the non standard "finless" Daytona barrel. Suzuki simply used the same TR porting on a recast barrel that used the same mold as the '72 GT-750's after that. Geoff Perry won won at Laudon in '73 before he died in a plaine crash and Paul Smart won at Atlanta that same year. Gary Nixon won at Laudon on the Erv Kanemoto TR-750 in '74. Shortly thereafter Gary went to Japan to test the prototype RG-500 and broke both arms in a testing accident. Gary's TR was returned to Suzuki race headquarters in Brea Californis and Erv was said to have cried as he watched it being dissambled with a cuttng tourch and placed in a dumpster. Four wins total.,Kris Bernstein,wang [email protected]
Re: Re: Suzuki US Roadracing History,Sunday 8-Oct-2000 18:32:22, writes,Why do I remember Art Bauman?... Maybe he was on a (gag) Kawasaki?,Lazy Boy,
Re: Re: Re: Suzuki US Roadracing History,Monday 9-Oct-2000 08:21:18, writes,Sad to say but Art "The Dart" came close several times but never won a national on the big Suz. Art lives in PA and I think works as a motorcycle mechanic. He's semi reclusive and prefers to sort of be left alone. Great talent but boy did he crash a lot....,Kris Bernstein,wang [email protected]
Re: Re: Re: Re: Suzuki US Roadracing History,Monday 9-Oct-2000 20:28:40, writes,Thanks Kris..... by the way... is all this info in your head or did you have to look some of this stuff up or something?... Are you just a fan or were you involved somehow?....Thanks again.,Lazy Boy,
Re: Re: Suzuki US Roadracing History,Tuesday 10-Oct-2000 20:34:19, writes, Thanks for the memory jog. My main recollection of the TR was Sheene's horrible mishap at Daytona. I know that the TZ750 rang the 'Death Knell' for the rest of the formula 750 bikes but did they give any parting shots to the T-Zed onslaught. Did anyone continue with the triples in tricker chassis? The only things I remember for sure were the RG650s any later the Daytona Special 650cc Yamaha square fours. I have 'Motocourse' back to '78 but beuond that my memories are getting a bit foggy. Thanks Guzzi John,john pierson,
Re: Suzuki US Roadracing History,Tuesday 24-Oct-2000 08:42:45, writes,Greetings from Australia.<BR><BR>Art Baumann is a ledgend. Those Anglo/ American match races in the UK were magic moments. I still have all the programs.<BR><BR>Looks like Kris has got it spot on with the history.<BR>A book to get hold of is Team Suzuki by Ray Battersby which traces the complete history of Suzuki racing from 1953 - 1981.<BR>I have a copy but you would have to kill me to get it as it is invaluable and belongs to a good friend who has lent it to me untill I am fed up with using it as a reference.<BR><BR>So if you have any questions fire and I will try to answer them from the official history book.<BR><BR>By the way I have a 1974 Factory TR 50O and a TR750 Barton Seeley for sale if you know of any one who wants to get out there and relive the experience of the good old days. Great collectors bikes.Can only go up in value.<BR><BR>Look forward to hearing from you.<BR><BR>Email me off line.<BR><BR><BR>,Ivor Evans,[email protected]

Woodley Replica TR500 for sale,Saturday 7-Oct-2000 17:33:08, writes,No not Bazza's TR unfortunately but a replica TR500 built by ex NZ racer John Woodley. True to the original only with better metallurgy than before. Alloy tank race fairing fast reliable motor and plenty of spares including lightweight crank straight cut primary pistons and barrels.<BR>Only US$4 250 plus freight. Why so cheap well the bottom has fallen out of the Aussie dollar for the moment down from 67 AUS cents to the $1US to only 53 AUS cents to the $1US. Don't ask me why but I can't imagine it will stay that way for ever. See the bike at -,muzza,[email protected]
Re: Woodley Replica TR500 for sale,Friday 20-Oct-2000 20:48:54, writes,damn the Aus dollar has now gone below 52 US cents now. Any offers on a absolute stunner of a TR500 here while the going is good? <BR><BR>EBay next I guess.,Muzz,[email protected]

Sale of Works TR500,Saturday 7-Oct-2000 16:28:11, writes,I have for Sale a genuine suzuki works racer that I purchased from Suzuki G.B in 1976.<BR>The bike has history that can be backed by Suzuki. It was raced by Barry Sheene and John Nebold. I have owned the bike since 1976 it was last raced in 1979 and is very original<BR>The price I require is around £8500,Bob Hill,[email protected]

gts750es?,Saturday 7-Oct-2000 15:57:19, writes, Eric Thanks for the info. It looks like the gs chassis deal is a go. Is there any possibility of contacting the owner or original builder of the machine you described so I might get some info on any pitfalls that may be encountered in the swap? I'm also quite interested in your t500/rd racer being as I raced a fully faired/modified rd400 20 years ago. I'd probably be better off leaving my 500 as is though in as much as my body is considerably larger and less flexible than it was back then. Love your site. Thanks Guzzi John ,john pierson,[email protected]
Re: gts750es?,Sunday 8-Oct-2000 06:54:27, writes,John <BR><BR>It would be impossible to find that guy sorry. As for the T500/RD400(RD350) framed racer I am 6'2" 212lbs. and fit on it well. Just adjust the seat and footpegs to your desire. I have recently readusted it for my rider as he is only about 5'8" and it was a reach for him.,Eric,

Re: GT550 PISTONS (NEW),Saturday 7-Oct-2000 09:44:59, writes,TEST 2 PISTONS,,
Re: GT550 PISTONS (NEW),Saturday 7-Oct-2000 09:51:24, writes,TEST3,,

Alloy gas tank,Friday 6-Oct-2000 08:57:09, writes,Hi <BR><BR>can anyone give me some hints on where to find an alloy gas tank that fits a T500? Of course it would be nice if it was cheaper than the rest of the bike...<BR><BR>An example of what I mean can be seen on the Fanatics site <BR><BR><BR><BR>This bike looks just fantastic Frank can be proud!,Stefan,
Re: Alloy gas tank,Friday 6-Oct-2000 22:50:35, writes,Stefan:<BR><BR>That tank is PROBABLY off something else and had the mounts modified so it would fit on the Titan frame.....OR it was totally hand built for that bike. Either way...good luck on your search.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Alloy gas tank,Saturday 7-Oct-2000 06:33:12, writes,That tank Frank found in the attick of Crooks Suzuki. It was off one of their T500 Historic Production Racers.<BR><BR>As Kris Bernstein about aluminum tanks he had this one done by someone many years ago. They may still be in business<BR><BR>,,
Crools Alloy gas tank,Saturday 7-Oct-2000 17:19:03, writes,Crooks will still make the tank seat kit for the production racing T500 but they are very the range of a couple of thousand quid! They do look great though.,muzza,[email protected]
Maybe but they sure don't like to answer their e-mail!,Sunday 15-Oct-2000 00:11:16, writes,,Stephen,[email protected]
Re: Maybe but they sure don't like to answer their e-mail!,Sunday 15-Oct-2000 08:10:32, writes,I checked a mail I had recently from Martin Crooks of Crooks Suzuki in the UK and the price for a production Racing kit for the T500 was 3 500 quid ouch!!<BR>,muzza,[email protected]

T500 oil capacity,Thursday 5-Oct-2000 21:39:55, writes,I have a simple question for you fanatics:<BR><BR>As I understand it from the goodly info offered here on this website starting in 1973 Suzuki modified the crankcase of T500's in such a way as to allow 1400cc's of oil to reside under and around the gears. This solved an engineering problem and kept the 4rth and 5th gear clusters moist lubed and happy. Right?<BR>On the cranckcase near your right foot is a small stamped sign that indicates the # of cc's of oil the crankcase holds. <BR>Question: Did the thoughtful manufacturors alter this little stamped sign to 1400cc's or did they leave it as 1200cc's? <BR>The reason I am asking this inspiring question is that I think (and "think" is the operative verb) that my engine is a 1973 due to the serial # but my crankcase clearly says 1200cc's.<BR>Either Suzuki didn't change the # or I am in possession of a truly frankensteinian motor... ,Matt,[email protected]
Re: T500 oil capacity,Friday 6-Oct-2000 23:11:50, writes,Good question Matt. Now all you Titan drivers check out your cases and the two guys with the engine numbers closest to each other BUT with the different capacities cast into them win a free all expenses trip to visit Muzza in Oz AND you get to take your Titan. If Muzza is one of the winners he gets to go to Deal's Gap.<BR>Legalese & disclaimer: However to claim the trip<BR>ya gotta pass me while you're riding a stock Titan. I get to ride my GT550A. LOLOLOLOLOL,H2RICK,
Re: Re: T500 oil capacity,Saturday 7-Oct-2000 17:49:55, writes,Coming to see me isn't a wise step cranky and ornery and ugly to boot! I'm happy for readers of this site to subscribe for ne to travel to Deals Gap though. Love to catch up with all you guys. As to the question...Suzuki very helpfully put a metallic sticker "1400cc" over the early bikes sold with 1400cc of oil capacity. Clearly Suzi modified the bottom cases as they had to admit to the problem eventually but didn't want to re-tool the top case just to change "1200" to "1400". Of course how long did the sticker stay on for....not long I hear you say correctly and subsequent owners probably only ever thought to put 1200cc in a 11400cc box...just great. Eventualy Suzi did get around to recasting the top crankcase cover and this time left the capacity figures right off. Can't say I stood around watching for the first model to appear without the sticker on it. I could scour around in my shed as I have stacks of crankcases but I have better things to do sleeping. Old man Muzz siging off for now.. au revoir.,muzza,[email protected]
Re: cranky & ornery....Ain't we all Muzza ??? LOLOLOLOL,Sunday 8-Oct-2000 13:01:53, writes,,H2RICK,
Re: Re: cranky & ornery....Ain't we all Muzza ??? LOLOLOLOL,Saturday 14-Oct-2000 10:14:48, writes,Some of us are meaner and orneryier (is there such a word..if not someone will invent it)than others but I can bet that I am the ugliest brute on this board after all I look a lot like my Mum and she ain't no oil painting and me Dad was a poor old buggar who thought beer was a health food and cigarettes a social necessity. Have you collected much for the benefit fund to fly me over for the proposed Deals Gap T500 rally yet? I don't do me web site for nothing you know I am aiming for fame and a free lunch before I take my last kick start. Eric will kick in I'm sure he sounds like a nice guy. The way the Aussie dollar has plunged you'd have to wonder why we put on the Olympics and how I will afford my next USofA (and 1st) holiday.,Muzza,

GT 750 water pump seals,Thursday 5-Oct-2000 11:21:14, writes,I have had a nagging problem with my '74 GT 750. I've had it now for nine years and put 22K miles on it. For all this time I have had an oil leak coming out of the weep hole on the bottom cover for the water pump. It was clearly a problem for the previous owner and during the time I've owned the bike the problem has neither gotten worse nor better. What leaks out is mainly oil with just a very small amount of coolant. My solution has been to simply keep topping up the transmission oil (ca. 25-50 ml every 300-400 miles) and the bike has continued to run great but the bottom of the engine and the center stand always drip oil. Given its position at the bottom of the engine it will be hard to try to remove the water pump and seals. Has anyone had a similar problem and how did you solve it? Perhaps I just need to put a diaper on it and not worry about it. Many thanks in advance for your help. Bill,Bill Eickmeier,[email protected]
Re: GT 750 water pump seals,Thursday 5-Oct-2000 12:50:51, writes,Bill-Your oil/coolant leak problem sounds hauntingly familiar to one I had on a Honda CR125. In my case the alloy housing that separated the transmission oil from the water pump impeller developed several small holes. This corrosion started on the water side and ate through to the oil side probably because the previous owner used a coolant that wasn't spec'd for aluminum engines. Two tear downs and a little JB weld later solved the problem. Paul,Paul,
Re: GT 750 water pump seals,Thursday 5-Oct-2000 18:36:04, writes,Keep in mind on the 750 H2O pumps that the hole at the back of the cover on the bottom of the motor is designed as a breather to allow oil to purculate through the small bearing at the top of the pump that supports the impeller shaft. 25cc's of oil is not a terrable price to pay in comparison to gaining access to the pump and changing out the o-rings ect. Fix it by splitting the cases and changing all accociated sealing parts. While your cases are appart you might as well rebuild the crank and undercut the gearbox cogs as that would be the appropriate time to do it....Choose your path wisely grasshopper. ,Kris Bernstein,wang [email protected]

pistons,Wednesday 4-Oct-2000 13:46:13, writes,I need a set of pistons and rings for a 1972 Gt 750.<BR><BR>Can anyone help?,,[email protected]
try paul miller at 877.244.7755,Thursday 5-Oct-2000 16:08:01, writes,,,

T500 with stuck motor,Wednesday 4-Oct-2000 12:47:03, writes,Hey what a great website <BR> This guy I know offered to give me his 1973 T500. It hasn't run in 5 years. Prior to taking it off his hands I would at least like to see if the engine will turn over. I took the spark plugs out and poured some marvel mysery oil into the recesses and let it soak for a few weeks - I still can't turn the engine. I put it in gear and tried to turn the rear wheel (oh god did I try). Nothing. I stood on the kickstart and jumped up and down. Nothing. Do any of you have any sage advice to offer? I really like the bike it is solid and the price is right. The previous owner stopped riding it because of it kept flooding (due to a leaky JB welded petcock) and also leaking gas on his pants. He says he never siezed a piston just got off the bike one day a never got back on.<BR><BR>-Matt ,Matt,[email protected]
Re: T500 with stuck motor,Wednesday 4-Oct-2000 13:35:51, writes,Hello Matt <BR>I am afraid it sound as if your piston is fronzen. My T500 was the same way when I purchased it last year. I think what happens after a long period of sitting the cylinder develops rust right around the rings. I had a special plate made to bolt on top of the barrel where the cylinder head is bolt on. This plate had a 5/8 threaded rod thru the center of it. I then used it to essentially push down on the piston to pull the barrel off. It was obvious someone tried to pull the barrel off before I got it because there were serveral hammer dings on the top of the piston. If you try this method make sure you push down on the piston in the area where the piston wrist pin is. I hate to say this but I think you are going to rebore thus needed new pistons and rings. If it is anything like mine you difitnely need to rebuild. If you have any other questions let me know.,Greg,[email protected]
Re: Re: T500 with stuck motor,Wednesday 4-Oct-2000 19:26:06, writes,Ugh that is what I knew I would hear but didn't want to. So did you rebore yours or just rebuild? If you rebored where in heaven did you get new oversized pistons? Know anything about the availability and price of T500 pistons and rings? Alas my "free" Titan is not going to be free at all. I gots me some figurin' to do...<BR>Thanks so much Greg.<BR>-Matt,Matt,
Re: T500 with stuck motor,Wednesday 4-Oct-2000 14:02:10, writes,Matt <BR><BR>I had a similar problem with a GT550 I picked up at a junk yard. (I agree this is a great message board.) Likewise I tried standing on the kickstarter. My method of madness started with taking parts of the engine apart. First the gas tank the aircleaner then the carbs and the exhaust. Now for the heads (which came off relatively easily.) <BR><BR>Seeing two of the three pistons (GT550) frozen to cylinders I removed the four bolts on the right side cylinder and gingerly moved the cylinder with my hands. No luck (yet.) I persisted by pouring small amounts of oil around the top edges of the piston while hoping (and praying) it would help to penetrate some of the corrosion. <BR><BR>A combination of patience to let the oil work its way around the piston and careful movement of the cylinder ... and it freed the siezed piston. Maybe I just lucked out but the same process worked on the center cylinder as well. <BR><BR>I hope my "experience" helps you. <BR><BR>Good luck <BR>,JD,[email protected]
Re: Re: T500 with stuck motor,Wednesday 4-Oct-2000 19:35:47, writes,Thanks JD.<BR>I was wondering: once you freed up your pistons did you take them out and rehone and polish them and the cylinders before reassembly...<BR>Or did you just retighten the cylinder screws reassemble the bike fire it up and just burn and blow all of the carbon rust and oil straight out through the exhaust? I know many of you T500 fanatics may be horrified at even the mention of such an atrocity (and I really should be taken out behind the barn and shot for even thinking it) but hey - I just thought I'd ask.,Matt,[email protected]
Re: Re: Re: T500 with stuck motor,Thursday 5-Oct-2000 05:03:52, writes,Well .... it depends how it looks once you get the cylinders free. If they're not scratched or obviously worn and the rings aren't stuck in the bores a clean up may be all that's needed to get her running. Then you can see if the crank seals are ok etc etc.<BR><BR>Here's a tip: get some cheap 2-stroke oil. Heat it in an old pan or saucer until smoking hot. Then pour into cylinder aiming at the rings while still smoking. This works wonders! You can try olive oil or any veg. cooking oil too if the Wife Acceptance Factor of 2stroke on the stove isn't good.<BR><BR>If you succeed in getting the barrels off I'd squirt some 2-stroke / gasoline mix (about 50/50) into the big-ends mains etc to let them soak a bit. This could help stop the crank seals getting too dry and failing on start-up which is a risk.,Craig,
Re: Re: Re: Re: T500 with stuck motor,Thursday 5-Oct-2000 12:28:07, writes,Hey that sounds like a good plan - I think I might try it out. Thanks for the advice.<BR>-Matt,,[email protected]
Not that it's much help but....,Friday 6-Oct-2000 08:57:35, writes,what you've experienced here is electro-chemical bonding of the rings to the cylinder wall. If/when you finally get the cylinders off you will probably see marks on the cylinder bore at exactly the place the rings were sitting. In the worst case there will actually be pitting in the cylinder wall where portions of the cast iron liner have migrated over to the rings. This is caused by the difference in electrical potential<BR>between the pistons and rings and works exactly like the way the chrome platers plate your bumper. The water to provide the "bath" for the reaction to take place comes from the humidity in the air. More humidity + many months/years =<BR>more transfer of material. Hope this effect is not too severe in your case. <BR>Best case = hone cylinders lightly and carefully clean ring outer surfaces reinstall & ride<BR>Middle case = new rings and thorough hone job possibly new pistons (you should think of doing this anyway if the bike has any appreciable amount of miles on it)<BR>Worst case = Rebore to next (first ??) oversize new oversize pistons & rings.<BR>Electrochemical deposition is the reason you put small amounts of oil down the spark plug hole and roll the engine over a few times BEFORE reinstalling the plugs when you store the bike for any lengthy period of time. It is also a good idea to plug up the exhaust pipe(s) outlet(s) and the intake(s). This will eliminate the paths for the humidity to gain entry to the cylinder and/or bottom end area.<BR>FWIW.<BR>Good luck on your project and keep us posted on this.,H2RICK,
Re: Not that it's much help but....,Friday 6-Oct-2000 14:44:27, writes,Gee thanks Rick. A very nice explanation. I guess it's time to go buy some vernier calipers and crack open that top end for a look-see. I'll keep this site posted with the progress of my little rusty rat roadster.,Matty,[email protected]
Re: Re: Not that it's much help but....,Friday 6-Oct-2000 15:25:54, writes,Now that's a technical response! Good job H2RICK!,,[email protected]
Good luck with your "rusty rat" and...,Friday 6-Oct-2000 22:58:43, writes,I've seen too many bikes get wrecked exactly like that over the years. I live in Calgary and it is very dry here most of the time BUT eventually enough moisture will collect in the engine to do the job. You guys that live in humid climates really have to be careful when you store your bikes because of this problem. <BR>Another tip: DO NOT START YOUR ENGINE UP FROM COLD AND RUN IT FOR 1 OR 2 MINUTES AND THEN SHUT IT OFF AND WALK AWAY. The condensation that occurs WILL do lots of bad things EVENTUALLY....especially if you are running low-rent injection oil with poor/no water dispersant additives. If you're going to start it up.....then RIDE IT. Everything will last longer<BR>and you'll get in a lot more riding. :-)))))),H2RICK,

GT500.... any suggestions ?,Wednesday 4-Oct-2000 09:25:58, writes,Hi <BR><BR>I have been fighting with a GT500 for far too long maybe it's time to finally ask for your advices.<BR><BR>Problem is bike won't start unless I screw out a plug and clean the surface between the electrodes with my nail. Can't see why this can cause such an effect but it works every time. Thing is it is neccesary every time. No matter if the engine is cold or hot no matter the heat of the plug new or older plug...<BR>And in the meantime I swapped about everyting in the engine.<BR><BR>Started out with a weak spark. Swapped coils and CDI spark got better but problems stayed.<BR>Swapped crank after noticing more smoke than I liked for another crank with new oil seals.<BR>Tried other plugs B6 now instead of B7 no effect.<BR>started out with standard carbsettings main jet 95 needle halfway. Changed to K&N filters with 105 main jet needle 1 ring lower. Zilch.<BR><BR>Thing is if the engine runs it seems fine to me. Pulls strong revs high revs low on idle as far as I can judge no big amounts of smoke sparks look OK. Plugs are a bit dark one side darker than the other but not wet usually<BR><BR>So where can I go now ?<BR>-find a way to see if there really is a spark when the bike won't start.<BR>-ask other people ?<BR>-use different oil ?<BR>-dump bike? <BR>No way it far too much fun to ride after all !<BR><BR>I have been fighting with this bike for more than a year now so please if there is anybody who has some suggestions let me know.<BR><BR><BR>Gijs,Gijs,[email protected]
Re: GT500.... any suggestions ?,Thursday 5-Oct-2000 13:55:26, writes,Gijs:<BR><BR>I can't speak for GT versions with electronic ignition but when I wrenched the T500s with battery/points setup they were VERY touchy about<BR>battery voltage points cleanliness corrosion<BR>in the connectors both at the points end and the coil end. Same goes for high tension spark plug leads. This may be a case of a bad plug cap or caps. When this happens take both plugs out insert back into caps ground them to the heads <BR>turn on key and kick 'er over. That will tell you a lot right there. Fat blue spark...great !!<BR>Thin yellowish spark....oh oh very bad !! Then you can start finding out what the spark problem is.<BR>No spark problem ?? ....start chasing that fuel problem.<BR><BR>With an an egine requiring only: <BR><BR>1) good spark at correct time<BR>2) correct fuel mixture<BR>3) good compression<BR><BR>to run properly your only constant is the compression which SHOULD not change from minute to minute.<BR>Your fault lies in the other 2 variables.<BR>Good luck and keep us posted on this complex problem.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: GT500.... any suggestions ?,Thursday 12-Oct-2000 20:07:30, writes,Hi Rick <BR><BR>I am currently waiting for some new tools to be delivered so I hope I will be able to measure the strength of the sparks and a set of glowing spark plug caps (?) so I should be able to check if there is any spark when I try to start the bike. <BR>I measured the compression a few times earlier in the process and found a compression of about 9 bar in both of the cylinders which doesn't sound that bad to me. I will repeat the measurements this weekend see if it differs.<BR><BR>Hope to tell you more in the near future <BR><BR>Gijs,Gijs,
Re: Re: Re: GT500.... any suggestions ?,Monday 16-Oct-2000 22:45:03, writes,Gijs:<BR><BR>(For the rest of you guys 1 bar = 14.5 PSI)<BR>9 bar is great long as both cylinders are within about 0.7 bar of each other.<BR>Keep us posted with a NEW post so we don't have to keep coming all the way down the page thanks.,H2RICK,

Lets hear some real HP figures no BS,Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 21:43:45, writes,,,
Re: Lets hear some real HP figures no BS,Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 21:56:21, writes,My '75 GT380 was making 42hp at the rear wheel before SOTW 1.After that some changes were made and I believe it is making more now but I haven't been back on the dyno yet.,Russ,
Re: Re: Lets hear some real HP figures no BS,Wednesday 4-Oct-2000 07:36:31, writes,My StageII GP T500 puts out 60HP @ the rear wheel. And they can go much higher than that. This stage of tune is much easier on the motor and it last longer.,Eric,
Re: Re: Re: Lets hear some real HP figures no BS,Friday 6-Oct-2000 21:10:49, writes,Hey Eric I'd like to get that power from my 71 Titan but want to preserve the stock nature of the power band. Got enough screamers already. Do you have any specifics other than modifying the squish to get more power from the beast? Steve,Steve Izzo,[email protected]
Re: Re: Re: Re: Lets hear some real HP figures no BS,Sunday 8-Oct-2000 06:58:05, writes,Steve <BR><BR>There are many different ways you can go on the project. I have done three near TR spec motors for guys who are only going to ride on the street. While you loose some bottom end (Kawasakis are like this stock) you can jet the bike to be very ridable and linear. Flat slides and lectrons work great.<BR><BR>I even have a guy who may do reed cages for the T500.<BR><BR>E-mail me.,Eric,[email protected]
Russ what mods have you made to the 380 to take it from stock? (nt),Thursday 5-Oct-2000 08:39:02, writes,nt,CRaig,
Re: Re: Lets hear some real HP figures no BS,Thursday 5-Oct-2000 22:23:49, writes,Sorry CRaig but your not going to be able to follow my lead on the 380.I found out too late that when you port an engine use a degree wheel!I worked everything out on paper and the actual port heights (with a degree wheel)did not come out as planned.I ended up with a little too much exhaust timing way too much transfer timing and not enough intake timing(at first).Later on I cut the piston skirts for more intake timing.I made my own pipes but I'm planning to make some changes to them.The carbs are 28's off an early GT550 and the ignition is GM HEI out of a 6 cyl.Chevy (yes it has a distributor cap and rotor).The bike probably shouldn't run as good as it does. ,Russ,

GT 380 Smoker,Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 15:03:38, writes,I own a 1975 380 that I have just rebuilt but the problem is with the oil pump set by the book(Haynes Manual) the bike runs fine untill you open the throttle to accelerate then the road behind you just disappears in clouds of blue smoke. I have checked the plugs (NGK B7ES) and they are fine if a little weak. Is the oil pump shot or is this normal. Also could anyone tell me the cylinder compressions for the 380 and does anybody know of a supplier in the UK who sells this Uni Filters as mine are on the way out. Any help will be much appreaciated.,Dave,
Re: GT 380 Smoker,Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 18:29:22, writes,To much smoke could ba a bad quality of inj oil or a bad crank seal.Keep an eye on the tranny oil.If the level goes down after a long ride is a bad thing.Tranny oil gets sucked in the crank by a bad leaking crank seal then gets burned.Reason of the excessive smoke.Good Luck,John,
Re: Re: GT 380 Smoker,Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 22:17:44, writes,Dave:<BR><BR>1) poor quality injector oil is first thing to look at. What kind are you running ?? Mineral based semi-synthetic full synthetic ??<BR><BR>2) if the engine has never been apart and has been sitting for a long time then yes the RH outboard seal could be bad and will suck tranny fluid into the RH cylinder (number 3). This will<BR>of course show up as much more smoke from #3 pipe than the other 2 cylinders.<BR><BR>3) injector pumps DO wear eventually. If this is a high mileage bike (+25 000 miles) then the pump can be worn. When certain parts of the pump wear<BR>it will actually pump MORE oil than when new. <BR>Resolve any potential problem with wrong injector oil first. Still too smokey ??<BR>Cut the pump back by 1/2 turn on the cable adjusting screw and then take a run and do a plug check. Plugs still oily and exhaust still too smokey ?? Back off another turn on the adjuster screw. Keep doing it until you have a balance of nice plugs and clean exhaust.<BR><BR>4) Do NOT warm up bike with enricher ("choke") in ON position for more than about 15 seconds. This loads the crankcase up with lots of unburned fuel/oil mix which takes a long time to burn off.<BR>My 550 is as visibly clean as a four stroke even when I get on the throttle hard. When warming the bike up flip the enricher lever off as soon as possible and continue the 1 - 2 minute warmup drill using the throttle instead. Your exhaust will stay a lot cleaner and the bike will drive nicer right from the get-go.<BR><BR>Good luck with this project.<BR>Still ,H2RICK,
Re: GT 380 Smoker,Thursday 5-Oct-2000 04:55:04, writes,H2Rick is right my 380 always smokes like a bugger until it's done 3-4 miles and has been opened up a little bit. I use Silkolene Comp Pro 2 which is smoke-free when the bike's fully warm.<BR><BR>I knock the choke off after about 10 seconds otherwise the motor just drowns.<BR><BR>Comp pressure should be around 120 - 130 psi max HOT with wide open throttle with no more than 15% difference between any of the cylinders.,Craig,
Re: Re: GT 380 Smoker,Thursday 12-Oct-2000 05:44:22, writes,also check the amount of slack in the throtlle cable(s) if there is a lot of slack in these it is like haveing the injector set way to rich. check your oil pump setting with the carb slides JUST starting to open if you have excess throttle slack you will notice that your oil pump setting is now way off.,moooose,
SRIS Tubes ... oil presence within them,Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 13:17:37, writes,Does anybody have some knowledge about the SRIS tubes? I bought some clear tube to replace the stock (hard crumbling crusty) tubes. I don't see oil flow in the lines. I only see ANY movement in one of the lines and it is a lot of air. I don't think the check valves are working.<BR><BR><BR>1) Should there be a visible flow of oil in the lines while the engine is running? (I don't have any oil flow)<BR><BR>2) Can I remove the valves at the base of the engine and clear the check valves? (The Clymer says not to remove them)<BR><BR>3) Do I HAVE to have NOS tubes or am I OK with these clear neoprene tubes?<BR><BR>All information is appreciated.,JD,[email protected]
Re: SRIS Tubes ... oil presence within them,Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 16:22:43, writes,Clear plastin oil lines sounds can see the oil flowing or not but...are they gasoline proof?.You you bought some cheap plastic line there a a big chance that they are not gas proof.Regular plastic hoses can harden and crack.I let you immagine what a broken oil line can do to a motor.Is the oil flowing from the oil tank to the oil pump?. Unscrew the oil banjo bolt a bit(the line that cames from the oil tank to the oil pump) and see if the oil cames out.Is does and is not going to the lines then you may have dirt in the lines or the check valves are not good9check valve is to stop the oil flow when the motor is off .whitout them you call fill the crancases with oil.Good luck,John,
Re: Re: SRIS Tubes ... oil presence within them,Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 22:36:00, writes,JD:<BR><BR>Previous post has I believe mixed up the SRIS and the injection lines together in his reply.<BR><BR>The SRIS lines are the ones from the front of the bottom of the engine and going back into the intakes between the carbs and the cylinders.<BR>You SHOULD if possible replace the lines with the original black hoses. The system is designed to work with the SMALL trapped volume of the small hoses not with a larger hose. I'm guessing here but believe those lines are either nitrile<BR>or urethane either of which are oil/gas resistant. Urethane is better for heat as well.<BR>Suzuki never ever mentions what they are made of in any publications but I work with this stuff in my job and it sure feels like urethane to me.<BR>Can you take the recycle valves out of the crankcase and clean them ?? Yes if the are NOT<BR>the press-in type like the early bikes had. Only<BR>72 production engines had the press-in types. At the beginning on the 73 model year (K model) they were changed over to the screw-in style and these are easy to remove and clean. Check that the strainer on the upstream side is clean. If not clean it in solvent if it is plastic and in carb cleaner if it is brass. You can if you're VERY careful diassemble the valve and clean the internals (spring and check ball) in carb cleaner.<BR>You will not NORMALLY see any liquid oil or gas in these lines. They are meant to carry vapour only. If there are any amounts of liquid in the bottom of the crank chamber such liquid will be vapourized and pulled up the transfer ports or back out through the SRIS system.<BR>Make darn sure you have no air/vacuum leaks in the SRIS system anywhere. If you do that particular cylinder will lean out on you and you COULD hole or totally seize a piston. Good luck and let us know how it works out.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Re: SRIS Tubes ... oil presence within them,Wednesday 4-Oct-2000 05:47:07, writes,You are right about the mixup.,John,
John & H2RICK <--- Thank you for all the help/info and ...,Wednesday 4-Oct-2000 14:32:30, writes,John - I appreciate your efforts/help even if you did get confused.<BR><BR>H2RICK - Thanks for the info as well! I feel comforted that you say the tubes are not NORMALLY supposed to have fuel/oil in them. <BR><BR>I believe the tubes I bought are "not" gas permeable. They are from a small engine repair shop ... he uses this type of hose for fuel lines on mowers and weed cutters. <BR><BR>What do you mean about a cylinder "lean"-ing on me? That makes me nervous because after the first 10 minute ride two of the tubes came off of the back side of the cylinder. I remounted them (more securely) and found a source to order the stock SRIS tubes.<BR><BR>UNFORTUNATELY I have a 72 GT550 J-model so according to your testimony ... I have press in style valves and should not remove them. I have removed the same on an old '73 and wondered why they should not be removed. No problem on the '73. Guess mine will have to stay as is.<BR><BR>Thanks again for all the info! I will order the stock tubes tomorrow and have them on by next week! Happy to know that I don't NEED to see a steady flow of liquid in the lines!<BR><BR>Ride smart ,JD,[email protected]

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