Suzuki T and GT Bulletin Board Archives
Page 8

Wanted Carb Slider,Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 10:34:19, writes,I need the slider for the right carb of my 75 T500. The guide on the slider is on the left side with the half moon cut out facing the airbox. If anyone can help it would be appreciated. Please e-mail me or call 312 656-7241.,Norm Hogeveen,[email protected]
Re: Wanted Carb Slider,Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 12:02:05, writes,With some luck you could find a used set of carbs in a salvage yard.,John,
Re: Wanted Carb Slider,Wednesday 4-Oct-2000 08:11:58, writes,Kijk eens bij<BR><BR><BR><BR>daar staat een lijst van nederlandse motorslopers...<BR><BR>Gijs<BR><BR>(Sorry for the language I'll do better next time),Gijs,[email protected]
Gt500..should I skim the heads 1mm or not?(for Erick),Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 09:09:57, writes,Hi Erick I was wondering if is a good idead to skim the heads on my 76' gt500 1mm?.Do you get any boost in performance?.does the timing need to be readjust?.Hoe do you take the rotor off? Do you sell the tool to remove it.Thank's<BR>John,John,
Re: Gt500..should I skim the heads 1mm or not?(for Erick),Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 14:32:59, writes,John <BR><BR>If you are not porting the motor then I would just leave the heads alone or maybe go 20thou instead of the 40thou you have mentioned.<BR><BR>Milling the heads will give you more bottomend and midrange and may even take some away from the topend.<BR><BR>If you go more radical on the milling you will have to retard the timing to around 3.1 to 2.8 BTDC. You may also have to go up on the pilots.<BR><BR>The rotor puller tool is still available from Suzuki.,Eric,
Re: Re: Gt500..should I skim the heads 1mm or not?(for Erick),Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 16:07:53, writes,Thank you Erick,John,

Buffalo Mods,Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 08:27:14, writes, I got negative responses a while back when I asked about 3into1 exhausts. Has anyone hadgood resultswith one? Also got little about chassis mods. I've come to the conclusion that using the existing frame with later suspension and brakes is the simplist way to improve things. I have a line on an '85 gs750es has anyone tried components from this sort of bike? Thanks Guzzi John.,john pierson,[email protected]
Re: Buffalo Mods,Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 12:07:29, writes,A good addition to the gt750 if you are not a "stock only" kind of man would be a front end from a Gsxr with a double disk.Do a little search and ask around if would fit on your 750.Nothing is impossible.Good luck,John,
Re: Buffalo Mods,Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 17:53:59, writes,Guzzi <BR><BR>Since you have come across the whole GS750ES then that should be your chassis. A fellow I knew in Florida put a GT750 motor in that same chassis but sold it before it was finished. The gentleman who bought it finished it and was extremely satisfied with the completed project.<BR><BR>I myself have never seen it but have heard many nice things about it.<BR><BR>I had a souped up GT750 and hated the frame. Worse hinge-in-the-middle effect I have ever experienced. If I built another I would not use the stock frame.,Eric,

How popular was the GT185?,Monday 2-Oct-2000 21:03:40, writes,I recently acquired a '74 GT185 minus front brake assembly and rear tail light / turn signal assembly. I am scouring local salvage yards here in Michigan with little success. Since I discovered this site within the last week I've noticed not alot is mentioned about this dimunitive Suzuki two stroke possibly because its devoted to the GT185's larger siblings. Is there any particular interest or value in the 185? If not I may have to part this one out. Thanks in advance for any insight. ,Paul,[email protected]
Re: How popular was the GT185?,Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 02:38:55, writes,The GT185 was very popular in the UK because of our peculiar licensing / learner laws which restricted novice riders to 250cc machines until they'd passed their riding test. This meant 250cc bikes were expensive so the GT185 and RD200 which offered 90% of the performance at around 60% of the price were an obvious choice.<BR><BR>The early one that you have is quite rare however with its drum front brake. The tail light / turn signal I believe was common to the 185 and the 125 twin so it should be pretty easy to source but the front brake may be trickier. <BR><BR>Parts are quite plentiful and very cheap in the UK if you're interested I could give you some contact details for Suzi suppliers over here.<BR>,Craig,
Re: How popular was the GT185?,Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 08:16:43, writes,Craig-Thanks for sharing your info on the GT185 and its appeal in the UK. Perhaps learner permits on smaller displacement bikes isn't such a bad idea as I see numerous wadded 600-900 cc bikes in my travels to the salvage yards.<BR>,Paul,[email protected]
Re: Re: How popular was the GT185?,Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 22:45:04, writes,Paul:<BR><BR>You've got a pretty rare bird there. I'd for sure fix it and ride it if for nothing else than getting stares wherever you go. A word of caution though: that bike is intended for "little people"<BR>and if you are over about 5'7" and more than about 130 pounds be careful how you drive it. Those skinny little tires and light suspension are all that's keeping you from sliding down the pavement on your butt. Good luck and keep us posted on this interesting project.<BR>PS: a pal of mine has a later one with the disk brake on it. It's not streetable yet but when he gets it going I'm going to cadge a ride on it from him.,H2RICK,
Re: How popular was the GT185?,Wednesday 4-Oct-2000 06:22:54, writes,H2RICK- I agree with your rare bird statement. Yesterday I went to another salvage yard and saw scads of GT380s and GT550s with a few GT250s thrown in for good measure. No 185s however. The only response I got back looking for the necessary brake and tail light parts was for more than what I paid for the bike (not surprising). I may end up parting this bike out to help other enthusiasts bring their 185 back to life or use it as trade fodder. You are also correct about those skinny tires and wimpy suspension-I could use something more substantial as I am 6'0" and 180 lbs. Ride safe Paul,Paul,[email protected]
How popular was the GT185?,Monday 2-Oct-2000 20:55:43, writes,,,

GT550 timing ... which way does the points cam rotate ... some info,Monday 2-Oct-2000 03:50:50, writes,Thinking about GregP's timing problems etc I remember reading an article about fitting Newtronics electronic ignition to a '73 GT550. It made the point that on 550s the backplate for the kit (which suits all Suzi triples) had to be fitted BACKWARDS because the 550 runs the other way.<BR><BR>As H2RICK sez best way is to use the kick starter to turn the engine over and go from there.,Craig,
Re: GT550 timing ... which way does the points cam rotate ... some info,Monday 2-Oct-2000 06:01:24, writes,I have a 72" 550.Ignition assembly is on the right side.Newtronic fits like a glove on the 550.(Boyer sucks big time and if you buy one good luck).You do not have to reverse anything to make it work even if is fitted on the right side.Only way to go.<BR>,John,

GT550 Electric Start?,Sunday 1-Oct-2000 11:57:27, writes,I apologize in advance for the basic nature of my questions... but I'm not very familiar with Suzuki's. <BR><BR>I have two Berkeleys (British microcars) They are powered by 2 (328cc) or 3 (492cc) cylinder Excelsior two strokes and are chain drive. My newest acquistion has a non-rebuildable engine so I wanted to repower the car with a more modern engine with about 50hp but retain the nature of the two stroke. I also have a very low hood so the engine must be fairly squat and have electric start.<BR><BR>About a year ago I discovered the GT550. It's a wonderful motor just the right size etc. And the handful of bikes I saw all had electric start so I assumed that was standard.<BR><BR>I recently purchased a '72 GT550 sight unseen from Ebay. The bike turned out to be beautiful and run great... good chrome lowish miles...really too nice to break apart! But I was flabbergasted to learn it had no electric start!<BR><BR>So my questions: Which GT550's had electric start and can it easily be added to my motor? Or should I sell the bike and purchase another GT550 that already has the starter? (A GT750 would be even better for the car but it's too tall!)<BR><BR>Thanks!<BR>Bill Elliott<BR>Lake Barrington IL,Bill Elliott,[email protected]
Everything I have says that all GT550's had electric starters,Sunday 1-Oct-2000 20:25:32, writes,,Stephen,[email protected]
Re: GT550 Electric Start?,Sunday 1-Oct-2000 21:22:28, writes,>> I recently purchased a '72 GT550 sight unseen from Ebay. The bike turned out to be beautiful and run great... good chrome lowish miles...really too nice to break apart! But I was flabbergasted to learn it had no electric start!<BR><BR> So my questions: Which GT550's had electric start and can it easily be added to my motor? Or should I sell the bike and purchase another GT550 that already has the starter? <<<BR><BR>I owned a GT550K and as far as I know all 550's had electric start. But mine never worked very well. Unlike the GT750 starter the 550 starter was "weak". I think the starter clutch just didn't "grab"; ie it slipped. I always just kick started mine.<BR><BR>Hope this helps <BR><BR>Andy B.<BR>1975 GT750M,Andy B.,
Re: GT550 Electric Start?,Sunday 1-Oct-2000 21:44:20, writes,Thanks to a detailed message from Stephen I have (VERY happily) discovered my new GT550 does indeed have an electric starter!<BR><BR>The seller owned it for a decade and told me it didn't have one. Even pointed out where it should be if it was so equipped. I'm very glad he was wrong. Though the switch doesn't appear to work 100% (it did nothing when I first tried it before posting)<BR><BR>A couple of people have asked me what a Berkeley is. Here's some pix of my 3-wheeler (one of about 8 in the US).<BR><BR>I intend to take the running (stock) engine out of this car for my newly-purchased 4-wheeler and drop the GT550 in. 18hp does 65mph... I can't wait to see what 50 will do!<BR><BR>Thanks again!<BR><BR>Bill,Bill Elliott,[email protected]
Re: Re: GT550 Electric Start?,Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 22:53:20, writes,Bill:<BR><BR>Yep...they all had electric start. No...the clutches weren't any weaker than normal. One of the main problems with the 550 is the battery/charging system. EVERYTHING must be in first class shape i.e. fully charged battery clean electrical connections throughout corect wire sizes etc. You can pull the starter out and dismantle it to check brushes armature cleanliness etc if you wish and it's probably not a bad idea after this many years. Keep us posted on this. I'm going to look at your project pictures and see what novel use you are putting this engine to. Good luck on this.,H2RICK,
Re: GT550 Electric Start?,Tuesday 10-Oct-2000 12:13:14, writes,what a great thing you got there vhen was it build how much does it weight is the engien in the front or in the back you should make all four pipes wisible could look great.,ZoSo,
Re: GT550 Electric Start?,Sunday 22-Oct-2000 08:19:15, writes,The Berkeley T-60 was built in 1960 in England. The engine is in the front and is chain drive to a center differential driving the front wheels. <BR><BR>The car is all glass with no frame... with the stock Ecelsior 328cc engine the curb weight is 700 pounds. With 18hp it will run 65mph.,Bill Elliott,[email protected]

Is there a Suzuki 650 triple two stroke?,Sunday 1-Oct-2000 07:02:33, writes,Hi I am new to this board. Was there a 650 suzuki triple two stroke made in about 1977? I have a chance to purchase one that is supposed to be in perfect condition for 550$(I haven't seen it yet)I haven't been able to find any info or pictures of it.I have always been a two sroke fan and can't wait to pick up a rode bike that is two stroke!!!!! Thanks for your help,Dave F.,[email protected]
Re: Is there a Suzuki 650 triple two stroke?,Sunday 1-Oct-2000 07:51:12, writes,Suki made 380-550-750 triples only.Make sure is a jap bike and not an Harley with a jap sticker on.You will me amazed what Harley owner would do to get rid of those "things".hehe,Fred,
Re: Re: Is there a Suzuki 650 triple two stroke?,Sunday 1-Oct-2000 08:39:35, writes,Suzuki itself never made a 650 triple. They did make a RG650 square four for the track but not the road. It probably isn't too hard to bore a 550 out to vclose on 60cc but I've never heard of anyone doing it.<BR><BR> ,Muzza,[email protected]
Maybe its a 750 with a bad carbon problem! ;-),Sunday 1-Oct-2000 20:15:54, writes,,Stephen,[email protected]
Re: Maybe it's a Buffalo frame with an Arctic Cat snowmobile engine....,Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 22:58:00, writes, 650 triples in bikes period. The seller is either trying to pass off a 550 as a 650 OR he's misinformed OR maybe it's a misprint in an ad. 380s and 550s are air cooled and the 750 is water cooled (can't miss that radiator hanging out front). Let us all know what you find.,H2RICK,
Re: Is there a Suzuki 650 triple two stroke?,Wednesday 4-Oct-2000 05:35:38, writes,You guys were correct! it was a 550. Would 550$ be a fair price if it is in good shape????? Thanks for your help!,Dave F.,[email protected]
Mystery solved !!!,Wednesday 4-Oct-2000 09:21:35, writes,Dave:<BR><BR>I'm assuming that's US$ 550...correct ?? For that price you SHOULD expect:<BR><BR>1) nice clean interior of gas rust<BR>2) fairly nice paint<BR>3) no missing pieces..side covers turn signals <BR> etc.<BR>4) good least 120 PSI on each <BR> cylinder<BR>5) tires in good shape (no weather checks i.e. <BR> no cracks) with some amount of usable tread<BR>6) drive chain that has some wear left in it and<BR> looks like it was lubed sometime in the last<BR> year<BR>7) all lights in working order<BR>8) good battery with working electric start<BR>9) seat might need recovering but foam and pan<BR> should be in good shape...foam not crumbled <BR> and pan not rusted badly<BR>10)chrome on fenders and rims not rusty and no <BR> dings in rims<BR><BR>You haven't mentioned what year this bike is.<BR>In 550s later is better because they had all the improvements on them. Basically 74 and later were the improved bikes with unitized carbs and somewhat cleaner (IMHO) styling. There was a mint<BR>550A (76) with 11 000 miles in Wallneck's last year and the guy was ASKING only US$1500. He probably ended up taking US$ 1000 or so...possibly even less. I have a mint 550A with only 3200 miles and know I would want at least<BR>US$ 2000 for it.,H2RICK,
Re: Mystery solved !!!,Wednesday 4-Oct-2000 10:39:22, writes,Yes 550$ US dollars its a 1977 and it supposedly is in excellent shape with around 13 000 miles on it.All chrome is said to be in excellent shape. I am trying to get a look at it next week. Thanks again for your help!,Dave F.,[email protected]

74 Suzuki GT 550 - Cylinder quits working,Saturday 30-Sep-2000 19:43:41, writes,I've got the timing set correctly. All three plugs fire when they're supposed to when I test them by laying them on the engine turn the key on and rotate the crankshaft.<BR><BR>When I put the plugs in turn the choke on fire the engine up the cylinders run fine for a bit. (I test the header's temp to see if the cylinder is working.) When I switch over to "run" position (from choke) the left cylinder <BR>quits working.<BR><BR>When I pulled the plug for the left cylinder it was totally saturated wet. After I clean the plug and put it back in I disconnected the plug wires for the center and right cylinders and started the engine with only the left cylinder getting fire to the plugs.<BR><BR>The bike started with the carb setting on choke. It idled at over 2k rpm. About 600 rpm faster than when I have all three cylinder's plugs connected. But as soon as I switch over from "choke" to the "run" position it quits running. I can't get it to run at all using the throttle. BTW I turned the idle mixture screw <BR>from the starting position (1 1/2 turns out) to all the way in to just 1/2 turn <BR>out with no change in the way it ran. I also switched condenser with another cylinder to see if that could be causing the problem. But nothing changed.<BR><BR>From my moronic view the problem sounds like it would be the carburetor. But what I don't know. Any help (of course) would be appreciated. Thanks.<BR><BR>,Gregp,
Re: 74 Suzuki GT 550 - Cylinder quits working,Saturday 30-Sep-2000 19:56:14, writes,It does sound like the carbs still since you have good spark to all cylinders. Since it quits when you take off the choke then I would check the low speed fuel circuit (idle circuit ) on the carb for some blockage. Also have you balanced the carbs according to the manual?,Eric,
Re: Re: 74 Suzuki GT 550 - Cylinder quits working,Sunday 1-Oct-2000 01:07:15, writes,I'm with Eric on this....For sure check the pilot jet and the pilot jet circuit for blockage. Spray some carb cleaner in the air bleed hole for the pilot jet on the upstream side of the carb. Do this with the carb bowl off. The Clymer will show you which hole is corect one.<BR>Also just a you have NEW plugs with proper gap AND proper heat range ?? It is amazing how little it takes to cause a plug to stop firing and old plugs are more prone to misfires than new plugs.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Re: 74 Suzuki GT 550 - Cylinder quits working,Sunday 1-Oct-2000 09:24:13, writes,I will take the carb off and clean it in a few minutes. Both you and Eric agree that's should be where the problem lies. The only other thing electrically is if the coil sometimes doesn't produce a big enough spark. I noticed that when I'm testing the plugs and system by laying the plugs on the cylinder heads that sometime the spark doesn't seem to be as large. But that might just be an optical problem on my part.<BR><BR>The plugs I got from a suzuki dealer 3 days ago. NGK 7ES. The breaker points for this problem cylinder was bought yesterday. $35 for one cylinder's points <LOL>. I should have bought electronic ignition in the first place. Now the price doesn't seem so bad.,Gregp,
Re: Re: Re: 74 Suzuki GT 550 - Cylinder quits working,Sunday 1-Oct-2000 15:48:23, writes,I cleaned the carb like you suggested. And put it back on the bike.<BR><BR>While holding on the exhaust pipe while running the bike I've been able to tell when the cylinder is actually firing.<BR><BR>I've been able to get the left cylinder to fire for a short amount of time. First I started the bike in choke mode. While feeling the exhaust of the left cylinder I noticed that it wasn't firing. So I switched it over to run mode after a second the pipe got extremely hot. The left cyl was firing and the rpm's went up. After a few seconds the rpm's started falling and the cyl quit firing.<BR><BR>Maybe this information would help trying to figure what's going on with the left cylinder.<BR>,Gregp,
Re: 74 Suzuki GT 550 - Cylinder quits working,Sunday 1-Oct-2000 07:15:36, writes,Please clear this for me.You say:when I switch from choke to run position.????Run-off is a kill switch.Now if by moving the right side crank bolt with a wrench and paying attention to see if the right plug sparks at the timing markYou should see the spark right wnen the marks align.I don't know what did on the bike so to make sure that you did not swap wires or else when you get the spark on that particular cylinderjust to be sure put a small screwdriver in the plug hole and see if that piston is as he should at the tdc.In short be sure you don;t have plug wires or else inverted.May sound silly but can happen.Ok..if that cylinder (right in indeeed at tdc is you seen the sprk at the right side plug check the other 2 bangers.Breaker gap is critical.Hope you know how to set the gap right.Clean the 3 carb pilot jets and the air jet.Make sure that fuel flow in all 3 carbs.Bike should start and run fine if you did all right.Let us know.,John,
Re: Re: 74 Suzuki GT 550 - Cylinder quits working,Monday 2-Oct-2000 05:40:50, writes,There is a lever on the left side of the bike attached to the carb's mounting bracket that has the words "CHOKE" and "RUN" on it. Oddly enough this lever controls the choke circuit on the left and center carbs. Maybe that is the lever he is refering to not the "RUN/OFF" switch located on the handle bars but that's only a guess. ,,
Re: Re: Re: 74 Suzuki GT 550 - Cylinder quits working,Monday 2-Oct-2000 08:23:27, writes,My 550 does not have that lever.My bike is a 1972 model.,Rick,
Re: 74 Suzuki GT 550 - Cylinder quits working,Monday 2-Oct-2000 06:05:46, writes,We will help with you bike problems but is going to cost you.You will be billed from each one of us.HeHe Got you scared?,Rick,
Re: Re: 74 Suzuki GT 550 - Cylinder quits working,Tuesday 3-Oct-2000 23:09:40, writes,Greg:<BR>What you have here is a classic "no fuel" problem in that carb on that cylinder. When the enricher is on (lever in "Start" position) the cylinder gets its fuel from the enricher circuit in the carb AS WELL AS the pilot lots of fuel for a rich starting mixture. Moving the lever to the "Run" postion shuts off the enricher circuit and now that cylinder is trying to run on ONLY the pilot jet. It will run properly for a little while on the residual rich mix in the inlet tract and the crank chamber but as soon as that's gone and assuming you've got only partial or no fuel flow through the pilot jet circuit....<BR> more fire in that cylinder due to none/not enough fuel which gives a mixture that is TOO lean to ignite. Your ignition sounds OK as it WILL fire the cylinder IF the mixture is there to burn. Find out why that carb pilot jet circuit is not letting the fuel through and most of your problems will disappear.<BR>,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Re: 74 Suzuki GT 550 - Cylinder quits working,Wednesday 4-Oct-2000 10:24:30, writes,I got a compression tester. The left cyl measured 110 lbs. The center cyl was also 110. The right was 100.<BR><BR>I took the left carburetor apart and cleaned every orifice of it twice in the past 2 days. Today I took apart the right carb to compare things between the two. I even measured from the tip of the jet needle to the where it enters the throttle valve (I think it's called). But found no noticeable differences.<BR><BR>I was wondering about the cylinder coil. I measured the ohms between the two primary<BR>wires and got approx. 5 (what it's supposed to be). But I don't have a tester to test the high voltage output. Could a cylinder coil work at times and then at times not? Because when I hit the throttle pretty hard the bike starts to accelerate pretty well but then it's like a rocket suddenly goes off and REALLY accelerates. I would have to say that's it's a time when the left cyl decides to run. The reason I mention it is that I would have to say that the sudden working of the cyl would be more likely caused by electrical problem. But is the fact that the plug isn't firing caused by drowning gas?<BR><BR>BTW. The spark I get is not a bright healthy blue-white spark. Being brand new plugs (and points to this cyl) I figured that would leave the coil. Remember I've got a regulator that gets a reading across the battery of 13-14 volts at 2k rpm and 14.5 volts at 4k rpm installed. But I also have the one that measures 16-17 volts at 4k rpm. Do you think I would get a better spark with the latter regulator installed? Or do you think it might damage other electrical instruments? Thanks Rick.<BR>,Gregp,
Re: Re: Re: Re: 74 Suzuki GT 550 - Cylinder quits working,Thursday 5-Oct-2000 23:12:58, writes,Do NOT use that higher output regulator. You will fry the battery with that high a voltage. 14.5 volts is plenty to power a 550 unless you've got a 100 watt stereo and a dozen aircraft landing lights hooked up to the system. LOLOLOL. I suspect that regulator has a bad resistor in it allowing too much battery voltage into the field coil and thus allowing the alternator to produce too much juice. Hard on the alternator. Hard on the battery both in and out.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 74 Suzuki GT 550 - Cylinder quits working,Friday 6-Oct-2000 08:35:02, writes,Thanks Rick. Will take your advice.,Gregp,

Gregp & timing dilemma,Saturday 30-Sep-2000 01:07:10, writes,Greg:<BR><BR>The Clymer manual I have is the 4th edition 8th<BR>printing in October/88.<BR>Ignition setting/timing is explained on pages <BR>VII (right after the index) and then pages 13 thru 17. It pretty much explains everything except how to make sure which way the engine turns. Just push on the kick starter and watch the shaft that has the points cam on it. I BELIEVE it rotates clockwise if I remember correctly. Say.....maybe my points should be cleaned adjusted and the timing set on my 550.<BR>That's a good Saturday job. Let us know how you make out.<BR>PS: DO NOT use a point file on your points. If they are grungey clean 'em with an rough surface<BR>(not shiney) business card or some similar thick paper.,H2RICK,
Re: Gregp & timing dilemma,Saturday 30-Sep-2000 05:52:49, writes,Hope you have Nippodenso ignition plate and not the Kokusan.Kokusan point breakers are no longer available from Suzuki.Spend a little dough and buy a Newtronic ignition.,Fred,
Re: Re: Gregp & timing dilemma,Saturday 30-Sep-2000 19:25:25, writes,I sort of wished I would have bought an electronic ignition now.,Gregp,
Re: Gregp & timing dilemma,Saturday 30-Sep-2000 19:34:39, writes,Hello Rick. My manual has the back page after the index (absolutely nothing). There's a few paragraphs at most on page 16 and 17 in my book about timing. Anyway with your help I finally got the problem of timing taken care of. Now another one (and should be the last) is discovered. I started a new thread for it.<BR>,Gregp,
Electronic Ignition- GT550,Friday 29-Sep-2000 13:13:44, writes,Ok. What is the best option(more than one?) for an electronic ignition for a '72 GT550? I have heard some rumors...... Is this a difficult swap?<BR>thanks,Woody,
Re: Electronic Ignition- GT550,Friday 29-Sep-2000 17:52:33, writes,The best electronic ignition around is the Newtronic.Order direct from England(cheaper).Installation is simple you you pay attention to the instructions.If you find hard to do it just ask..We will help you.Newtronic address in the web.Search engine and typi :newtronic or Newtronic ignition.Let us know.,John,
hey ALL...,Friday 29-Sep-2000

74 GT 550 timing,Thursday 28-Sep-2000 20:52:16, writes,Can someone tell me what the heck's going on? I go to set the timing on my 1974 Suzuki GT 550 exactly like it tell me to in the Clymer's manual. Using a dial indicator I find TDC and turn the crankshaft back to lower the piston 0.132 inches. But when I go to adjust that cylinder's contact it is fully open. Even with the maximum adjustment I could do to the contact I would be no-where near an area on the cam that would close the points.<BR><BR>It starts ok I guess. And after warming up for 3 minutes during a 55 degree day it will stay idling. But not that smooth. I tried to adjust the carbs. Closing the idle jet completely on a carb didn't change the way the bike was idling all that much. So I decided to start with adjusting the point gap. Then set the timing. And then come back to the carbs.<BR><BR>When I move the accelerator more than the smallest amount (1/2 inch) of the total it like bogs down with hardly any acceleration. And the sound of the bike changes to a more muffled sound.<BR><BR>Any help would be appreciated on any of these problems I have. Thanks.,Gregp,
Re: 74 GT 550 timing,Friday 29-Sep-2000 05:37:27, writes,Whi don't you do yourself a favor and buy a Newtronic electronic ignition.Buy direct from England.Cheaper this way.Set the time once and forget it.All you have left insteast of playing around with breakers is....just ride the bike.Price is about $140.If you want the address just ask,,
Re: 74 GT 550 timing,Friday 29-Sep-2000 18:53:55, writes,Before to time the ignition se the point gap.Turn the crank with a wrench and when the points opens at the widest point stop.Get a feeler gauge and set tha set of points as on specs.Nex to the other cilinder and then the last one.Really does not matter wich one first.The only important thing is the right gap.All after you got the gap right in all 3 cylinders you set the timing.Nothing easyer then that.Start with the fixed points(No moving plate).I belive is the left side.hummm.The other 2 sets are on a moving plate.Once you have the timing mark spot on turn the key on.Should see a spark on the plug...forgot to tell you..put the plugs on put them on the head.No spark?move the big round plate a bit..foward or back try till u get a spark.Got to fire on the timing mark.Once you got one cylinder set the rest is same thing but in a way easyer bacause the round plate will move all 3 breakers.remember the fixed breaker got to be set first.Hope the rest of the motor is good or we are in trouble. HeHe Good Luck,Rick,

Expansion Chambers for Suzuki T500,Thursday 28-Sep-2000 09:56:52, writes,Hi<BR><BR>Does anyone have specs on how to manufacture a set of expansion boxes for a T500?<BR><BR>The bikes ports etc are standard but I want to mod the bike to look like a racer but use it on the road.<BR><BR>If you have any ideas links etc please e-mail them direct to me at [email protected]<BR><BR>Thanks<BR>,Duncan Young,[email protected]
Re: Expansion Chambers for Suzuki T500,Thursday 28-Sep-2000 12:43:51, writes,Buy a set of chambers from Jemco.Price should be around $250.A bit loud but a list I won't hear the piston noises. HeHe,Rick,
Re: Expansion Chambers for Suzuki T500,Thursday 28-Sep-2000 19:26:07, writes,Try vintage japanese motorcycle world on the net.<BR><BR>They have specs for a Gt 750 can't be that different. Just leave out<BR><BR>Also try the tr 550 page.,Atlantic Pirate,

t500 fork boots,Wednesday 27-Sep-2000 21:23:21, writes,Wondering if anyone knows where I can get a set of front fork rubber boots for a T500. Thanks,Steve,[email protected]
Re: Steve they are still available from Suzuki.,Thursday 28-Sep-2000 06:53:19, writes,,Eric,
I have an extra set,Thursday 28-Sep-2000 08:53:35, writes,I have an extra pair from a '73 that are in perfect condition. You can have them for $10 U.S. which includes the shipping cost from Canada. Have a look at yours and measure the bootom lip (how long is the flat portion on the lower fork legs). I'm asking since I noticed that the ones off the '73 are not the same as those on my '75.,Stephen,[email protected]

Grooved pistons and rings?,Wednesday 27-Sep-2000 13:39:31, writes,I have a 1975 gt 500.I bought a T500 motor from a guy.Good motor.Motor has contact breakers.I pulled the heads and cylinders off....and I seen a couple of weird looking pistons.I had many 2 stroke bikes but I never seen grooves on the pistons below the rings .The rings have a groove in the middle too.Can anybody explain the grooved pistons and rings?.My gt500 has regular rings and no grooves on the pistons.,Rick,
Re: Grooved pistons and rings?,Wednesday 27-Sep-2000 19:33:28, writes,Early T-500's came with the grooved pistons and rings. You will note that Wiseco also tried this idea on their early two stroke replacement pistons. Suppossedly the rings help retain oil in critical areas of high heat build up (ie piston crowns and rings). As technology developed in ring and piston developement the grooves disapeared. I actually own a brand new grooved T-500 piston that makes a very nice pencel holder on my desk. So now you know.,Kris Bernstein,wang [email protected]
Good answer Kris but ...,Thursday 28-Sep-2000 09:00:57, writes,The '75 T500M is not an early T500. Perhaps earlier pistons were used during a rebuild. It is worth noting that the T500M appears to have used a different piston from the earlier models. My factory parts book shows that the same part number is used for the T500R J K and L but a different part number is used for the M in 1975. If earlier pistons were not used in a rebuild then it may be that while the bike is registered as a '75 it is actually a late '74 that was first registered in '75. It would be interesting to know the serial number.,Stephen,[email protected]
Re: Good answer Kris but ...,Thursday 28-Sep-2000 13:57:52, writes,My T500M also had the grooved pistons from the factory. Manufactured Oct 1974 and the bike was completely original with no signs of any repairs or replacement pistons. Serial number is around 74 000 or something I can check when I get home if there is interest.,todd,[email protected]
Serial numbers and changes,Thursday 28-Sep-2000 17:32:49, writes,My '75 T500M is serial number 81909. It may in fact have grooved pistons (I have not had it apart.) However I'll bet that many of the changes were "phased" into production as the parts bins ran empty. Todd - I'll bet your T500 is actually a T500L spec bike. Your bike is the same colour as mine but I'll bet it was just pained in the '75 colour scheme. I have seen another T500 late '74 production bike that was also registered as a '75 and in the same blue. However a close inspection indicated a T500L. For example the rear pegs were on the muffler mounts rather than on the swingarm as changed for the T500M. That bike also started with serial # 74000 something. Todd - where are your rear pegs?,Stephen,[email protected]
Re: Serial numbers and changes,Friday 29-Sep-2000 12:53:54, writes,The foot pegs were on the swingarm. And I say were on the swingarm due to that fact that AHRMA tech would not be too supportive of the peg mounts remaining there. Nothing a cutoff tool couldn't fix.<BR><BR>Are the replacement pistons in the parts book the same number as the GT750 pistons. Suzuki saw the end of the T500 line was near and cut production of the T500 pistons in favor of using the 750's? Just a guess.,todd,[email protected]
Re: Re: grooved pistons,Saturday 30-Sep-2000 18:08:40, writes,It is of no great consequence. Suzuki made grooved pistons as the idea was that it would help with oil retention as technology advanced it came to be seen that the grooves were not needed and the GT750 type piston came standard.<BR>Either piston works fine both are thoroughly reliable. For racing I prefer the GT750 type but there is no reason for that other than I believe that they are easier to get. I have no problems with either. The only pistons to avoid like the plague are the early T500/5 windowed pistons.,muzza,[email protected]

Gt500 rotor tool remover,Wednesday 27-Sep-2000 13:32:04, writes,Hello I was wondering the tool to remove the rotor on the left side is available somewhere or an alternative to remove it?.Thank you,Jim,
Re: Gt500 rotor tool remover,Friday 29-Sep-2000 12:07:38, writes,,GREG,[email protected]
Re: Gt500 rotor tool remover,Friday 29-Sep-2000 12:11:22, writes,I wondered this myself on my T500. The rotor should have thread on inside bore. These threads are the same as the threads used on the rear axle shaft. I simply threaded my rear axle into the end of the rotor threads until snug. Then by using a soft brass mallet or hard plastic mallet rap on the o.d. of the rotor. The rotor is on a taper and is keyed with a woodruff style key. Good luck.,GREG,[email protected]
Re: Gt500 rotor tool remover,Saturday 30-Sep-2000 18:13:18, writes,You can get a puller that screws into the thread holes on the rotot but be real careful not to screw the puller in too far as the screws will cut into and wreck your charging coils,muzza,[email protected]

MY WEEK WITH MY INDY !!,Sunday 24-Sep-2000 01:34:05, writes,CAUTION: SUREGEON GENERAL'S WARNING AGAINST TERMINAL BOREDOM etc etc blah blah<BR><BR>Me and the Indy got all shone up and went to a Show & Shine last Saturday (Sept 16) for pre 1980 bikes (supposedly). It was sponsored by the local vintage guys (car club and bike club). Weather was beeeyoootiful. About 75-80 degrees in a great park down by the river.<BR>Rode from home in sweats and jacket cuz it's early fall here in Calgary up at 3500 feet and 50 degrees latitude. By 10:30AM off come the sweats<BR>and on go the shorts and big golfers straw hat.<BR>Man it got warm. Over 50 bikes showed up with the newest being an 81 GS550 Suzi (a little worn but what the heck). Bikes next to me were an RE5A rotary CB550K3 Honda and a Kawi H2B all in very nice shape. Only 2 Harleys in the bunch and these were both pre-war (1928 and 1935 if I remember correctly) so they were acceptable. Also on display was an unrestored 66 Suzi 80 with a high pipe. Pretty decent for a bike that old. Talked to a lot of guys about bikes cuz the show was well publicized. The crowd numbered about 800-1000 people so yakked with a lot of "civilians". I'm standing looking at a really nice early 80's Laverda Executive (reallllly rare) and a guy comes up to me and says "Are you Rick ?". What could I say...I admitted it. Then he says "Rick So & So ?". Nope not me but "why do you ask" says I. "Well" he says "I just bought<BR>a Suzuki GT500. Do you know anything about them ?<BR>I was told that a Rick So & So knew all about <BR>them." I told him MY story and told him about this board so he may turn up here eventually.<BR>The show ended without any prize for my Indy OR the Rotary. Hard crowd. Rode home in a glorious<BR>warm afternoon.<BR>Sunday I go for a 200 mile ride on my "other bike" cuz it's got a windshield. Another beyooootiful crisp fall day up in the foothills of the Rockies. Get home and BBQ some steaks.<BR>10:00 PM rolls around and IT'S SNOWING and CONTINUES SNOWING ALL NIGHT AND ON AND OFF ALL THE NEXT DAY. Summer's over tonight and we're looking at a long and dismal winter.<BR>Whodda thunk it ?? But that's Calgary weather for ya....if you don't like it right now just wait for 5 minutes and it'll change. LOLOLOL<BR>Annnnyway weather gets better and better all week but mostly cloudy and gloomy except Friday is reallll clear and cool at about 40 degrees F for the high and a low overnight of about 25 deg F. Lots of frost on the pumpkin but Indy is warm in her nice big garden shed that she shares with<BR>"the other bike".<BR>Today (Sept 23) get up late and let the frost go away. Anther beyoootiful Saturday.....WOW.....two in a row. Haul Indy out of the shed and go rat racing around town looking at bikes at the various shops and generally yakking with people and end up at the bike wreckers on the south side<BR>scmoozing with guys trying to fix 25 and 30 year old bikes. In rolls a T500M with a guy looking for parts. Yackity yack. The yard also has a GT500A for sale complete and not bad except frame left side cover is missing. The bike runs great<BR>(some piston noise) and they want about CDN$ 800 for it. If my shed would hold another bike I think I would have bought the darn thing just to save it from some bonehead. We'll see.<BR>In my travels I blew off some yuppie idiot in a <BR>new Mustang GT V8 automatic and some kid on a mid 80's Kawi 750 of some kind. All in all a pretty satisfying Saturday. The Indy just drank gas like <BR>a mid 70's Caddy and produced thrust like the space shuttle all day. Both of us were very happy at day's end. Maybe we'll go out on a 100 miler tomorrow just for the he!! of it. I wouldn't want her crank seals to dry out. LOLOLOLOLOL<BR>Just thought I'd share all this with you...nothing exciting but just real nice weather to ride in toward the end of the riding season.<BR>Who knows.....we may get an Indian summer and ride til Hallowe'en. Stay tuned for updates if you care.,H2RICK,
SUNDAY RIDE ADDENDUM,Sunday 24-Sep-2000 20:24:21, writes,Well we put on a nice round 90 miles today. Saw some great country in the foothills of the Rockies and had fabulous weather...about 60 deg F<BR>and not a breath of wind. It was so nice that even the Harley guys (some of them) were waving back. Had Indy up to the magic "ton" (100 MPH) as the Limeys say and noticed at my first stop that the baffles in pipes 1 & 3 were shedding a little packing onto the end crossbar. I'll have to pull those suckers and see what gives.<BR>We ended up at a small town where all the "beautiful people" (read accountants doctors lawyers) hang out with their Harleys on Sundays. And boy were they there in spades. There was a bunch of guys from the vintage club there and lo and of their members was there on his 1914 INDIAN 61 CUBIC INCHER. They had all ridden about 100 miles so far and the Indian never missed a beat. What a treat to see such an old bike completely restored but completely original. Too bad I left my camera at home.<BR>Annnnnyway...the Indy was the ONLY 2 stroke there (surprise surprise) and got a few double takes from the crowd (What the heck is that ?? covers the bulk of the comments). Schmoozed for a while with some guys I know and then rode home in the late afternoon to a real nice BBQ supper.<BR>PS: blew off a Mercedes S320 on a long uphill in high gear yet. Indy's still got lots of life in her yet.,H2RICK,
Re: SUNDAY RIDE ADDENDUM,Monday 25-Sep-2000 10:16:40, writes,Do you need H2 parts?.I have tons of parts.I sold the wiggler I got the parts left.,Tom,
Re: Re: SUNDAY RIDE ADDENDUM,Tuesday 26-Sep-2000 13:54:17, writes,Tom:<BR><BR>Sure I'm interested in the parts. Whaddya got and where are you ?? Do you want to sell them as a lot or will you sell individual bits ?? Email me at [email protected]<BR><BR>Wiggler....I've heard Kawi Triples called lots of things in the last 30 years but that's a new one.<BR>Very apt though.,H2RICK,
Re: MY WEEK WITH MY INDY - SNOW!!,Monday 25-Sep-2000 22:16:39, writes,Sounds like the perfect season - Snow in September. Almost time to get out the snowmobiles. Here's an idea - Polaris is making motorcyles (Victory) and snowmobiles - how about dropping an 800cc 2 stroke snowmobile motor in a Honda RC51 frame. Should be good for about 150 hp.<BR><BR>RZ (350) Lee,RZ Lee,[email protected]
RZ...Great idea and it's got my vote but....,Tuesday 26-Sep-2000 13:49:46, writes,but I think I'd rather have a Suzi engine out of a late model Arctic Cat. I believe they offer a 700 or 800 triple. Just'd be called the "Snow" Buffalo. WOW...I just amaze myself with my creativity. I think I'll copyright that name before someone else does. LOLOLOLOL,H2RICK,
Re: RZ...Great idea and it's got my vote but....,Tuesday 26-Sep-2000 16:11:27, writes,The "Great White Buffalo". Sounds like this guy around here that has a v-6 in a frame. Pretty nice looking actually. In fact it might be a factory offered vehicle. <BR><BR>When I pulled up along side I just asked him "how fast?" He pointed to the sky shook his head and said "waaaay up there". <BR><BR>Waaaay to heavy a piece of equipment for me.<BR>,Gregp,

Cylinder head welding,Saturday 23-Sep-2000 03:40:14, writes,Is there anyone with experiences in cylinder head welding is it possible and is it worth it?<BR>I finally found what is causing the problem with my T500 that would not run on low rpm on one of the cylinders.<BR>There is a crack in the cylinder head all the way from the spark plug hole out to the outer edge of the head.<BR>I had swithed everything from spark plugs to ignition coils and even carburetors between the two cylinders but the problem remained on the same cylinder.<BR>So now there are two options as I see it either seek for another left cylinder head or weld the broken one.<BR><BR>Any advices on what to do?,Stefan,
Re: Cylinder head welding,Saturday 23-Sep-2000 07:17:20, writes,I would go for a good used head.Try the Salvage yards.Years back I bought a T500 brand new head for $10.No joke.May take some time but you will find it.Don't gave up,Fred,
Re: Cylinder head welding,Saturday 23-Sep-2000 19:01:39, writes,Don't waste your time trying to fix it with weld. I have a collection of several left side head that have cracked due the abuse of racing the T-500. Locate a good used one and move on....,kris bernstein,wang [email protected]
Re: Cylinder head welding,Sunday 24-Sep-2000 00:14:39, writes,If you get desperate I have a stack of T500 heads.<BR>In all my racing I've never cracked one; but then I don't push the compression envelope too much. Cracked heads are a common problem.,muzza,[email protected]
Thanks a lot for the advices Kris Muzza and Fred!,Sunday 24-Sep-2000 02:05:27, writes,Thanks a lot for the good advices! It now feels as the right way to go to try to locate a used head.<BR>I will put a message on the board if I can't find a head here in Finland. It might be tough as there are not that many T500's up here and I have probably the oldest one(68') in the whole country.<BR><BR>Thanks once again and good luck with your racing Kris and Muzza!,Stefan Holm,

Noisy top end,Friday 22-Sep-2000 13:01:51, writes,Hello A friend gave me a 1976 Gt500.Rough condition but no missing parts.Odometer reads 8750 miles.I belive are the real miles.Bike used to be my friend's dad.I got the "thing " started.Is very noisy.Noise cames from the right side cylinder.Noise is less when the motor is hot.Revs fine.Runs really goood on the street.Just the damn noise at cold.Any idea what can be the problem?Thank you,John,
Re: Noisy top end,Saturday 23-Sep-2000 02:09:08, writes,John:<BR><BR>Usually 1 of 3 things (or a combination thereof) can cause what you describe....<BR>1) excess piston to cylinder clearance<BR>2) worn wrist pin/pin bearing<BR>3) worn con rod small end <BR>4) worn con rod big end<BR><BR>Numbers 1 & 2 can be fixed relatively cheaply and easily by anyone who is semi-experienced with engines. Numbers 3 & 4 are Number 10 (VERY BAD). LOLOLOL. (Sorry sometimes I can't help myself)<BR>Annnyway...I hope it's 1) or 2) for your sake.<BR>The Titan is a tough bike and the crank/con rods assembly are usually trouble-free so I'd bet on number 2 as the problem. Sooooo...get out those tools and pull that top-end down and check it out. Get a good service manual BEFORE starting ANY work. You'll save time and money by referring to it FIRST. Either Clymer or Haynes will do but I'm increasingly leaning toward Haynes as more thorough than Clymer.<BR>PS: you didn't mention if you're getting equal smoke from both exhasts or not.<BR>Let us know how it goes.,H2RICK,

73 T500 Carbs,Thursday 21-Sep-2000 21:10:51, writes,I feel like a real kid with all you speed demons out there porting and milling and so on but I'm having a problem keeping my (mostly) stock 73 T500 running. For several years I've had problems with carbs over flowing. It's been more noticable since the stock vacuum assited petcock bit the dust. I thought the float height was wrong then cleaned/reseated the float valves and finally replaced them (thanks Eric). none of this fixed the problem. Now after tweaking the tabs on the floats too many times and nearly wearing out the bowl screws I think I've found what's been bothering all along. The floats or at least one are hanging up on the side of the bowl. It seems tricky cause you can't see what they do when you put it together. Any Ideas or replacement floats?,Jerry,[email protected]
Re: 73 T500 Carbs,Friday 22-Sep-2000 00:51:54, writes,Hey Jerry had the same problem on mine . The float only needs to be a little out of line to do that . I found alot of patience & very small bends in the floats cured it . Also check the washer that seals the seat to the carb mine was leaking ever so slightly so it would take all day for the carbs to overflow .The way I did the floats was to keep re-assembling them & turning the carbs upside down & listened for the float to move freely. Cheers Paul,Paul (Brisbane),[email protected]
Re: 73 T500 Carbs,Friday 22-Sep-2000 07:32:39, writes,Yeah same thing happened to me - the thing that finally gave it away was a bright spot on the solder where the float had been rubbing on the side of the bowl.,Sam,
Re: Re: 73 T500 Carbs,Friday 22-Sep-2000 17:42:03, writes,Paul and Sam<BR>Thanks for commiserating with me on this. Maybe there is hope. I'll let you know how I do.<BR>Jerry,Jerry,[email protected]
gt550 pipes,Thursday 21-Sep-2000 10:46:27, writes,there's a set of chambers on ebay supposedly for gt550.,,

1974 Suzuki GT 550 - Need new alternator?,Wednesday 20-Sep-2000 17:59:28, writes,I disconnected the alternator from the rest of the bike by disconnecting the alternator's wire harness from it's main connector by the regulator. Took off the brushes and it's assembly.<BR><BR>I measured the slip ring to slip ring. Just above 5 ohms.<BR><BR>I measured slip ring to rotor shaft. Both rings showed infinite resistance (no continuity).<BR><BR>I measured stator body to rotor shaft. 0.1 ohms resistance (direct short).<BR><BR>I'm pretty sure (famous last words) that's not supposed to be.<BR><BR>If that's true what do I replace? Rotor? Stator? Or both?<BR><BR>PS. H2RICK. I called my parts distributor and asked him for a rotor that would give me 10-12 ohms from slip ring to slip ring. He said he measured three and they were 7 5 and 5 ohms respectively. So unless all these rotors<BR>are bad my reading of 5-6 ohms seems ok. Or not?,Gregp,
Re: 1974 Suzuki GT 550 - Need new alternator?,Saturday 23-Sep-2000 02:15:47, writes,Greg:<BR><BR>All I can tell you is that Suzuki calls for 10-12<BR>ohms across the slip rings on the rotor. You are getting half that rersistance so the current through the rotor windings (field coil) to ground<BR>(which is where the current goes after it goes through the filed coil) will be double what it should be. The regulator is not meant to handle that amount of current.<BR>PS: did you figure out what part of the regulator gets fried when they fail ?? That can tell you a lot right there.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: 1974 Suzuki GT 550 - Need new alternator?,Saturday 23-Sep-2000 10:23:45, writes,Thanks Rick. Unfortunately I don't know how to detect what failed in the regulators. If I did I probably wouldn't need this help.<BR><BR>Do you know if the 10-12 ohms acoss the slip rings is with everything connected (including the brush assembly)?<BR>,Gregp,
Re: Re: Re: 1974 Suzuki GT 550 - Need new alternator?,Sunday 24-Sep-2000 00:48:43, writes,No that resistance measurement is shown in the service bulletin as just the bare slip rings with no brushes in place. Also as you mentioned in your original post on this thread that you had 0.1 ohms from the rotor shaft to the outside of the rotor. This is normal as the outer part of the rotor is pressed onto the shaft and so there is naturally continuity between them. The clear reddish-purplish varnish insulation on the magnet wires of the field winding and the light brownish insulation cloth is what keeps the field windings insulated from the rotor shaft/outer surface. <BR>Again I believe you have a partial short in the rotor windings as your 6 ohm reading is about half what it should be. Probably what has happened is that the wire windings of the field coil have expanded and contracted enough times rubbing against each other all the while and rubbed that insulating varnish off themselves about halfway through the total length of wire in the coil. Thus...6 ohms instead of 10-12 ohms. <BR>Keep looking for a better used stator that has the proper resistance value.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Re: Re: 1974 Suzuki GT 550 - Need new alternator?,Sunday 24-Sep-2000 08:45:57, writes,I'll keep looking for a stator with the 10-12 ohm resistance called for.<BR><BR>I finally found the problem. Someone wrote to me in response to the question of "why is the 2 brushes connected to each other electrically by the bolt that connects them (as well as the green wire) to the stator body. So he went and found a GT 550 and looked (because he couldn't figure out what I was talking about at first). <BR><BR>He then wrote back and explained how the "insulating washer shaped like a hat insulates the 2 brushes...". I looked and discovered that I didn't have that washer installed with the brush assembly. And there it was.<BR><BR>I looked in the box of parts I had left from assembling the bike (about 6 of them out of 2 boxes and 3 bags of bolts screws washers etc.). Sure enough the insulated washer was one of them.<BR><BR>All I can say now is that I should have figured it out when putting it together. And NEVER TRUST a Clymer's manual again. The picture they have of the alternator doesn't even show that bolt and washer. Instead it shows the other bolt and it's typical lock washer assemby. And since it showed the one bolt and how it's assembled and not the other I figured that it was an identical assembly. Isn't that the way you're supposed to read diagrams?<BR><BR>Anyways I was to thank everyone who helped me with my problem. I learned a lot. Unfortunately I have a feeling I'll more questions forth coming. For instance I couldn't get it to start after putting together yesterday. But I ran the charger on the battery over night to give it another try in awhile. Thanks again to everyone with my electrical problem.,Gregp,
Hallejujah !!! ,Sunday 24-Sep-2000 21:16:43, writes,It's the little things that get ya. I think a trip to the dealer to look at their fiche could have solved this problem early on. But hindsight is always 20-20. Now the burning question is:<BR>Will it charge the battery when you finally get it running ??<BR>PS: is your spark timing set properly BEFORE you go any further...wouldn't want to hole a piston would you ??? It also makes starting a whole lot easier with the correct timing.,H2RICK,
Re: Hallejujah !!! ,Monday 25-Sep-2000 08:17:42, writes,In my old age (2 ulcers) I've learned that if I think "what if" I end up in an endless loop of "what if I didn't think of the "what if"".<BR><BR>I plan on checking the timing this evening. I just glanced at that section in the clymers manual. It looks like I have to buy some sort of external depth gauge. Isn't there a better or easier way?<BR><BR>BTW I'm using the original regulator at the moment. I'm going to switch between the 3 alternators to see which one gives me the most volts across the battery at 2k rpms. Is this a good idea?,Gregp,
Re: Re: Hallelujah !!! ,Wednesday 27-Sep-2000 08:51:11, writes,A) the dial gauge method of timing is the most accurate way. However if you look in the manual there is also the "rough & ready" way of timing with an ohmmeter and the little three pronged<BR>"propellor" that sits on the end of the crank BEHIND the points & condensor plate. That little<BR>propellor has timing marks on it for all 3 cylinders. The manual tells you how to proceed with setting of the timing UNLESS you have an older manual with which I am not familiar.<BR><BR>b) What you want is to have a maximum of approx<BR>14.5 volts being put into the battery at idle/low engine speeds and heavy electrical loads (headlight on high beam turn signal on etc). Whichever regulator will give that value is acceptable. Don't forget there are 2 other modes of regulator operation that must work also. We'll call the max charge mode Mode 1. The medium charge is Mode 2 and (I don't have the book in front of me) I believe the regulator is supposed to put out about 11 or 12 volts at this point. Mode 3 is the "no charging" mode. This mode only happens under high RPM/low electrical load conditions. The battery is fully charged at this point and has sufficient current to power the system without needing charging. The current normally going to the field coil in Modes 1 & 2 is shunted to ground by the regulator in Mode 3. Without any current to the field coil the alternator cannot produce a charge. I believe the Clymer gives you the various voltages into the battery at various engine speeds. If not post back and I will see if I can dig up the info for you.<BR>This is all very easy to see on your voltmeter<BR>as you rev the engine and apply different electrical loads in the 3 modes mentioned above.,H2RICK,
Re: Re: Re: Hallelujah !!! ,Thursday 28-Sep-2000 07:18:56, writes,Thanks Rick. The manual I'm using is from the 3rd publication - 4th printing (or is it the other way around) dated 1980. I remember reading something about a "quick" way of timing it. But I can't seem to find it in my manual now. But since I've already dump the cash on a dial indicator I'll just set the timing that way.<BR><BR>I'll keep in mind the info on what numbers I'm supposed to be reading when I test the system's <BR>voltage across the battery. Thanks again.,Gregp,
Re: Re: Re: Re: Hallelujah !!! ,Saturday 30-Sep-2000 00:57:49, writes,,,

GT 750,Wednesday 20-Sep-2000 15:08:35, writes,I am looking for a set of expansion chambers and a electronic ignition for a gt 750. Can I modify one from a H2 if so how?<BR><BR>I have three Gt 750's scraped so if anyone wants any parts lets talk.<BR><BR>AP,Atlantic Pirate,[email protected]
Re: GT 750,Wednesday 20-Sep-2000 20:17:51, writes,Jemco in Texas makes triple expansion chambers for the Buffalo they're black and $450.oo. Have you welded the equalizer tubes in the front shut yet? makes some more power for basically free. I think it's newtronic that makes a breakerless ignition.,Nightrider,[email protected]
Re: Re: GT 750,Saturday 23-Sep-2000 02:22:05, writes,I'd definitely NOT use the H2 ignition. It's rather fragile to start with and it would be a<BR>BRUTAL job to adapt it to the Buffalo. Not enough room on the end of the crank for a start because the H2 ignition and alternator are combined in one location whereas on the Buffalo they are separated one on either end of the crank.<BR>However if you do have ANY surplus H2 parts let's talk. Email me at [email protected],H2RICK,

GT380 porting for power,Wednesday 20-Sep-2000 13:47:27, writes,Craig and H2Rick were talking about GT380 power and how the engine was so conservative well I had 5 of these beasts and thought the same! The 380 has true pure Schnuerle porting with no auxillaries or boosters and the ports are quite small in height and width. I got a great idea from examining my GT250 which basically had the same porting but with one major difference: the exhaust port had 2 small ports on either side near the top to effectively widen it without the risk or loosing ring support. I know how to take a hint and drilled two 1/4 inch holes on either side of the 380's exhaust port the tops of the holes being equall with the top of the exhaust port. Next I used my Dremel and a carbide bit to drop the bottom of the new holes 3/4 of the way down towards the bottom of the exhaust port and slightly ovaled out the tops of the holes. Next I drilled 2 3/8" holes in the piston skirt on the intake side just on either side of the intake port but so as not to fall in the ring gap areas. Then using the Dremel I cut two troughs or grooves if you will in the cylinder walls that were even with the tops of the tranfers and the bottom of the grooves were even with the holes in the skirt at BDC. Basically I added 2 booster ports angled right at the plug and widened the exhaust with webbed holes to support the ring. Next I had the head milled to set the squish at .040" and went up 2 jet sizes on the mains used Uni-Filter foam on the stock filter cages and re-packed the silencers. Talk about a difference.....It would do roll on wheelies in first just snap the throttle open and enjoy the view of the sky! The 380 would crap out at about 7K but this one would pull hard all the way to redline and you didn't need to take it that far to get all the thrills you wanted. I got the booster idea and drilling the holes in the skirt from Aerimacchis and RDs that I had seen back then. I never told anyone until now as it was my big speed secret........and later I forgot about it altogether. Now that I don't have the bike I might as well tell everyone what I did. ,jmendoza,[email protected]
Re: GT380 porting for power: the UK angle,Thursday 21-Sep-2000 06:59:58, writes,Jay thanks for those tips interesting stuff! Especially the auxilliary exhaust ports. <BR><BR>Over this side I've tracked down a guy that developed a 350 racer based on the 380 bottom end with watercooled barrels & heads. Turns out the first bike they did as a test bed was a standard road 380 with special head & barrels for watercooling no pump but all done by thermosiphon. With squish and a bit of porting (largely extended exhaust & a bit of inlet & transfer work) it was putting around 50bhp at the back wheel all using stock pipes etc!<BR><BR>Sounds way cool ....,CRaig,
Re: GT380 porting for power,Thursday 21-Sep-2000 13:52:33, writes,JM:<BR><BR>I didn't think anyone even knew how to spell Schnuerle never mind what the name referred to.<BR>It has been many years since I've seen the name used in ANYTHING...internet magazine article whatever. My hat is off to you for bringing this must be a real student of two stroke engines. Very interesting take on how to give the 380 some muscle and RELATIVELY easy for the semi-experienced to undertake. NOVICES: don't try this without adult supervision. LOLOLOL<BR>As you mentioned Suzuki makes very conservatively ported bikes for street use and this is probably why they can take a lot of abuse and still show reasonable durability. Again thanks for the interesting post.,H2RICK,

Yama Rd350 faster then a Suzuki Tr500?,Tuesday 19-Sep-2000 18:04:12, writes,I heard some talking about the Yamaha rd350 beating the Suzuki t500 on the racetrack.I guess was Vintage racing formula 500.True?,Sam,
Re: I guess it depends on the rider. My GP Spec T500 with Joey Naval riding beats Yamaha RD350s and RD400s. Don't bleieve everthing you hear. It's just more people make things to make Rds go faster. So more people go the easy route. I prefer taking an obscure bike and beating them.,Tuesday 19-Sep-2000 18:25:21, writes,,Eric,[email protected]
Re: Re: I guess it depends on the rider. My GP Spec T500 with Joey Naval riding beats Yamaha RD350s and RD400s. Don't bleieve everthing you hear. It's just more people make things to make Rds go faster. So more people go the easy route. I prefer taking an obscure bike and beating them.,Saturday 23-Sep-2000 07:58:50, writes,Looking at the results on the WERA page I see RDs in the top positions even when Joey Naval races. What gives??? I see some Tina girl on an RD beating the Suzukis too. I just can't understand why with 150 extra ccs the Suzuki isn't faster than the RD-350.<BR><BR>Sam,Sam,
Re: Re: Re: I guess it depends on the rider. My GP Spec T500 with Joey Naval riding beats Yamaha RD350s and RD400s. Don't bleieve everthing you hear. It's just more people make things to make Rds go faster. So more people go the easy route. I prefer taking an obscure bike and beating them.,Saturday 23-Sep-2000 17:22:15, writes,Any time you want to race against my stock T500 ..just tell me.The extra 150cc are just enough to pass you hehe,Suki rider,
Re: Re: Re: Re: The Suzuki 500 in question that gets beat a lot by the RDs is my Street Production bike. A little amount of porting and only the taillight and headlight are off. It weighs 440lbs. against the GP spec RDs 270lbs. Plus I weigh 212lbs without the leathers. On fast tracks i am near the back but on short tight tracks I am near the front. On Joeys bike this year we have had mechanical problems i.e. electrical which have caused piston failure and a seal or two in the crank. It is definately an RD beater and fast. Ask anyone who races against it. Don't give up on deciding to race a T500. You will see more out next year.,Monday 25-Sep-2000 07:02:41, writes,,Eric,[email protected]
Re: Yama Rd350 faster then a Suzuki Tr500?,Monday 25-Sep-2000 16:16:13, writes,I have seen RZ350's beat new 600's- depends on the rider the track and other factors.,Scott,

crankcase paint,Tuesday 19-Sep-2000 16:55:14, writes,Hello everyone!<BR> I am in the process of prepping my crankcases for high-temp paint. I was wondering if I should use a primer or not? Has anyone painted their crankcases before? Any help would be appreciated. <BR> Thanks <BR> Greg,greg,[email protected]
Re: crankcase paint,Friday 22-Sep-2000 07:36:14, writes,Try KILLRUST aluminium applied by brush - doesnt look to fake and bakes on nicely,Sam(Brisbane),

air filter for 1973 gt 380,Tuesday 19-Sep-2000 04:07:52, writes,looking for info as to stock type air filter Suzuki has part numer but not available any info as to what people have used as a sub thanks ken,ken gt 380,ken.schwenger
Re: air filter for 1973 gt 380,Sunday 1-Oct-2000 09:04:51, writes,use Uni bulk filter foam make paper patterns<BR>and Seal-All will stick it all together when <BR>used as a contact cement.,Russ,
your 68' T500 Eric...,Monday 18-Sep-2000 19:03:16, writes,Hi Eric <BR><BR>I received the money order for the T500 today. Let me know as soon as possible who to deliver it to at the Talladega AHRMA races. <BR><BR>Thanks <BR>Dan Boggs,Dan,[email protected]

76 gt750 to sell or keep??,Monday 18-Sep-2000 17:47:26, writes,I have a 76gt750 that needs some help. I'm sure it needs a set of crank seals for starters and then a fair amount of cosmetic work to get it looking new again. I really love the style and type of bike but dont know if the money and trouble are going to be worth it in the long run. Let me know what you think!!,Dan,Dancranman
Re: 76 gt750 to sell or keep??,Monday 18-Sep-2000 18:58:17, writes,I restored a 1976 Gt500 last year.The bike was sitting for 15 years.Good thing was..the owner filled the crank with oil to prevent the rust.Was ugly.Tank rusted.spider webs all over.I spend alot time stripping the bike and polishing painting all the parts.In the end the bike turned out to be like new.Restore your bike.Take your time.Good Luck,Tom,
Re: 76 gt750 to sell or keep??,Tuesday 19-Sep-2000 06:55:40, writes,What kind of milage does the crank have on it? My '72 750 seems fine and it only has 15K plus. <BR>Where are you located? Perhaps we can make a deal on a sale. ,Kris Bernstein,wang [email protected]
Re: 76 gt750 to sell or keep??,Wednesday 20-Sep-2000 20:12:28, writes,Well hell yeah you should keep it. My 72 has and does need help. I just put a 50 tooth sprocket on and welded the pipe sharing holes shut in front of pipes all = More Smokey Burnouts replace the crank seals and beat on it it'll never knock I've already wore out 2 back tires! you should see the looks you get when you hang the wheel on a water buffalo for a block!!!,Nightrider,[email protected]
Re: 76 gt750 to sell or keep??,Saturday 23-Sep-2000 02:31:31, writes,Dan:<BR><BR>Just wondering why you think the crank seals are bad. The later Buffaloes had very durable seals which seldom gave trouble. If it's just the outboard seals no probs (more or less). If it's the inners....VERY BAD. Pulling down and reassembling a Buffalo crank is a BIG job only to be done by EXPERTS. If the bike is all there and in resonable shape and DOES need inner seals <BR>I'd try to get a used engine/bottom end/crank assembly instead. Faster and cheaper. Of course<BR>you would have to make sure the used item doesn't<BR>have the same problem.....<BR>Keep us posted on this...sounds interesting.,H2RICK,
Re: 76 gt750 to sell or keep?? ADDENDUM,Saturday 23-Sep-2000 02:33:54, writes,I see there's a poster with some scrapped Buffaloes 2 or 3 posts up on this page. That may be your answer IF the inner crank seals are TRULY shot.,H2RICK,
We'll see you on the road scag We'll see you on the road like we saw the Nightrider!!!,Monday 18-Sep-2000 15:38:00, writes,:),Nightrider,[email protected]
Re: We'll see you on the road scag We'll see you on the road like we saw the Nightrider!!!,Tuesday 31-Oct-2000 10:09:51, writes,Look at this a cripple and a mute. Yeah he sings<BR>and I tap dance.,Darius,

fuel,Saturday 16-Sep-2000 17:14:56, writes,anyone have experince running VP fuel MR-3 or MR-1? e-mail me at [email protected]<BR> thanks<BR><BR>,ron,merc_racing
Re: fuel,Sunday 17-Sep-2000 13:28:18, writes,I've run the purple VP in my GT750 W/ klotz in the injector but it is not readilly available in my area. Most of the time I run Turbo Blue and Klotz sometimes Torco. The high test fuel makes a feelable difference and is easier on plugs did I mention how good it smells? the smell alone is almost worth the $3.65 a gallon.,Nightrider,[email protected]
fuel,Saturday 16-Sep-2000 17:12:01, writes,,,

gt/gsxr750,Friday 15-Sep-2000 23:42:55, writes, Anyone ever thought about putting a hotted up gt750 motor into a early gsxr 750 frame ? I think it would be kind of interesting to smoke some of the new bikes out there with a old stroker!!<BR>I once fpond a site that claims 110 hp reliably out of these motors still using the injection and they also said it makes a good street motor with a wide powerband as well.Any body have any thoughts on this? ,Big D,
Re: gt/gsxr750,Tuesday 19-Sep-2000 07:07:09, writes,Not impossable to do but keep in mind the length of the GT motor is a few inches longer than the early GXSR item. Might be necessary to fabrecate new lower frame rails. Bending square aluminum so it would match the upper rails it a tough job unless you are a Harris or Spondon type shop. It would be far easier to use round Cromoly tubes on the lower rails and mate them to the upper frame utilizing the existing mounting points. Complete wireing harness would need to be transferred to the later chassis and wired into the lights etc. Hope you have lots of time and money to play with this project this winter....Good luck.,Kris Bernstein,wang [email protected]

GT550,Friday 15-Sep-2000 20:34:38, writes,I just bought a 1973 GT550 that has been stored for 24 years. I cleaned the carbs making sure I had the jets unplugged replaced the plugs but neglected to check the air filter. I decided to check it the other day and found the foam disintegrated in my hands. The motor had sucked a bit of it through. When I went to order a new air filter I was told it had a paper filter with a foam pre filter. Apparently someone had removed the paper filter. Anyway I've ridden it about 400 miles and it has run pretty well but I noticed that the plugs are a bit on the dark side. The left cylinder is more carbonned than the rest. I do not ride easy but I wonder if the sprockets are standard too. It only runs about 4 000 rpm at 62 mph. Is that about right? Oil pump adjustment is good. Is 30-35 mpg about right? Thanks ahead for any help.,Eric,[email protected]
Re: GT550,Saturday 16-Sep-2000 07:27:42, writes,First I would check the conditions of the contact breakers and the timing.My 550 had Kokusan ignition assembly and the points where no longer available and I ended up buying a Newtronic ignition.Great stuff.If the points are ok I would check the exhaust baffles and the all exhaust system next.Clean everything.Test the bike.If does not run better then make sure the carbs have the right pilots and main jets.(new filter is about $20).The 550 should go to about 110mph.Signs off at about 7500rpm.If the bike still does not run better then I would take the head and cylinders off.You may need new piston rings or the rings could be stuck in the grooves.Good luck,Tom,
Re: Re: GT550,Saturday 16-Sep-2000 07:36:43, writes,Thanks for the insight. I ran down a bunch of these messages last night. Neat bunch of people. Thanks again!,Eric,
Re: Re: Re: GT550,Saturday 16-Sep-2000 08:17:33, writes,With today's gas prices riding a 2 stroke is not cheap.They do use more gas then 4 strokes but they are twice the fun.I got a manual from my Suki dealer.Is a Clymer.Not the best but just ok.I have a big

74 Suzuki GT 550 electric problems,Friday 15-Sep-2000 16:42:30, writes,peterj > Does the fuse still blow with the regulator in circuit and the field windings and or rectifier disconnected? <BR><BR>I was able to disconnect both the rectifier and field windings with no fuse blowing. But what surprised me was being able to have everything connected (including the regulator and rectifier) with just the male connector for the alternator disconnected from one of the main 3 connectors by the regulator and rectifier area. And no fuse blew.<BR><BR>Add the above data with the fact that if I remove the regulator with everything else connected it doesn't blow a fuse. I'm just too confused to figure what to test next.<BR><BR>Thanks for the help Peter. Any other suggestions (no matter how far fetched) please send them my way.<BR>,Gregp,
Re: 74 Suzuki GT 550 electric problems,Saturday 16-Sep-2000 16:34:51, writes,Addendum:<BR><BR>The latest news is that I'm able to connect everything where it's supposed to be without blowining a 10 amp fuse. Except the green connection on the brushes assembly. When I connect that up the fuse blows. Does that mean I need to get a new alternator? Thanks. BTW the 3 amp fuse blew right away so I jumped to the next biggest fuse I had.<BR>,Gregp,
Re: Re: 74 Suzuki GT 550 electric problems,Tuesday 19-Sep-2000 22:47:56, writes,Greg:<BR><BR>I'm back and your description on this thread means that your field windings in your rotor are shorted as mentioned previously. That's what the green wire to the regulator is...the filed wire. With the key on and engine not running OR running at idle the battery current flows to regulator and then to the field coil in the rotor THROUGH the brushes via the green wire. Deep six the rotor and get a new one or good used one with 10-12 ohms across the slip rings. You might be able to get the local motor rewinder to rewind your existing rotor for you but that usually costs more than a wrecker would charge for a used one. End of story.,H2RICK,

Compare GT 550 & 750 front fork internals,Thursday 14-Sep-2000 17:22:13, writes,I have a 74 GT 550. That makes it a K model right? I bought a GT 750 front end because of the dual disks. I don't know what year it is. The outer (lower) tubes are the same size and look the same internally. The 750 forks had the rubber boots on them instead of dust seals. The 550 dampening rods are solid rods with shorter springs and a spacer about 5" long at the top of the fork. The 750 forks have hollow dampening rods with holes drilled down one side and longer beefier springs and no spacers. The inner tubes look the same on both sets but the pistons are shaped differently. What would be the best combination of these fork sets? I am trying to build a vintage roadracer. My Clymer manual just says that the forks are "generally similar for all models". Have the 550 forks already been modified with the shorter springs and spacers? I know what the safe thing to do would be but does anyone know what would give me the best front end? I already have tapered roller bearings new wheel bearing and an aluminum front rim. Please help. ,Todd,

TR-500 Racing Fairings and Seats,Thursday 14-Sep-2000 07:09:14, writes,I still get some calls on folks looking for TR-500 fairings and seats. The only cpompany I know of that Still produces them is Moto Tumbi. Try then on their web page at:,Kris Bernstein,wang [email protected]

Front Fork Problem,Wednesday 13-Sep-2000 17:57:29, writes,I am restoring a '75 GT750 during the strip down of the front forks the Socket screw on the left fork will not release. It seems to just spin is there a possibility that the Damper Rod is spinning free within the tube. If so are there any tricks to releasing the socket screw before I consider drilling the head off the screw?,Michael Hanson,
Re: Front Fork Problem,Thursday 14-Sep-2000 02:47:12, writes,if its the hexbolt in the buttom of the fork use one of these screwdrivers that you hammer on(dont no the word for it)had the same problem on a gt250 you have to put the spring back in the tubes<BR>ZoSo,ZoSo,
Re: Front Fork Problem,Thursday 14-Sep-2000 11:16:45, writes,I've had the same problem numerous times with various forks. What I found best is to break the allen bolt loose before removing the spring. Also as much as I hated to part with the $$ I finally broke down and bought an electric impact wrench from Sears. It turned out be money WELL spent. It makes these type jobs ALOT easier.,Alt,[email protected]

Engine wanted.,Tuesday 12-Sep-2000 23:21:34, writes,Looking for an engine for a '68 T500. After trying every possible chemical
I could think of (and letting it soak for a month) and every possible method I could think of to remove a corroded barrel I resorted to my BFH and after 75 whacks (using the hammer as as baseball bat) I was able to get the barrel off of the case. Needless to say the barrel was destroyed. The upper case is cracked around the drive gear (not by my doing). So I am in the market for a trashed engine that I can salvage the upper case and the barrel(s). The oil capacity modification had been done to my engine so all trans parts look fine. I would like to retain the bottom case as I am restoring the bike and would like the numbers to match if possible. If anyone could tell me either what year engines I should consider or any leads on an engine that would suit my needs I would be eternally grateful.<BR>Best regards.<BR>Greg Groth<BR>,Greg Groth,[email protected]
Re: Engine wanted.,Saturday 16-Sep-2000 12:04:17, writes,I replaced the upper engine case on my 350;it wouldn't pass the leakdown test. Cases are made in one piece and cut in half to ensure an exact match-of course you may be lucky and have no problem. Good luck with tour search.,Scott,
Re: Re: Engine wanted.,Saturday 16-Sep-2000 22:26:59, writes,Thanks for the advice as I've found a junkyard right by my house with three of them. I couldn't believe it I was there getting some parts for my truck and they had 10 motorcycles sitting by the front gate. 1000 cars one like mine 10 motorcycles 3 T-500's. Anyway I have a question regarding the leakdown test you describe. Exactly what is it and what (if any) tools do you need to perform it? Thanks for any help.<BR><BR>Greg,Greg Groth,[email protected]
Re: Re: Re: Engine wanted.,Sunday 17-Sep-2000 09:19:24, writes,There is a good article at,Scott,
Re: Re: Re: Re: Engine wanted.,Sunday 17-Sep-2000 20:11:43, writes,Thanks for the info as I was able to get an engine today. I hope to rebuild one engine out of the two I have and get it going by the end of October. ,Greg Groth,[email protected]

HELP!!!WHO HAD THE POST ON DIFFERENT DISPLACEMENTS FOR THE 550's ???,Tuesday 12-Sep-2000 23:00:05, writes,I can't find that one. Am I losing it ?? Did I dream about a thread discussing the different displacement 550's for different markets ???<BR>Help.,H2RICK,
Re: It was the 380s that were made in 371cc & 384cc versions ..... ,Wednesday 13-Sep-2000 03:10:55, writes,Hi Rick you didn't dream it but the bikes in question were the 380s. US and UK markets got the 371cc version (54 x 54mm) and some markets eg. Italy got a 384 cc model (55mm bore 54 stroke).<BR>This came to light because importing bikes from Italy is quite popular in the UK and a Classic Bike reader wrote in with his findings. He foud out because the R/H barrel had 384cc cast onto it rather than the usual 371cc. <BR>According to the owner's manual for that bike Suzi claimed 41bhp @ 7500rpm which I think is a bit optimistic. I've no idea what if any other modifications were made by the factory: I guess they had the same head porting cases but you never know with Japanese mfctrs ...<BR>They may have made the 550s in different capacities too but I've no evidence for this.,Craig,
Re: Re: It was the 380s that were made in 371cc & 384cc versions ..... ,Monday 18-Sep-2000 13:47:55, writes,Thanks Greg...I guess that shows I've only half lost it. LOLOLOL. Sorry for the delay in posting a reply but I tried last week and this low rent board was eating posts again. This will be my third attempt to thank you for the info.,H2RICK,
Wheels Restoration 75 Susuki GT 550M,Tuesday 12-Sep-2000 21:02:28, writes,I need help in how to restore the wheels on my bike some the spokes start to rust.Can I chrome the spokes to avoid rusting? What process shou,Fernando Miranda,[email protected]

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